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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions



  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    when you say hubs do you the u joint caps? if so then you might have the wrong u joints. i think thats what your talking about.. yeah anytime someone tells you there is nothing wrong you know there telling the truth right ha ha
  • I'm not getting hot air coming from the vents like I should. The engine is plenty hot so I am not sure why It's still not working properly especially after changing the water pump and thermostat.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There are several reasons why you may not be getting heat. (even after replacing waterpump and Tstat)

    Try this, when the inside fan is blowing on high and controls set to full heat.... gently feel the temparature of the hose LEAVING the heatercore. (easilly accessable under the hood)

    If that hose is HOT... then the antifreeze is FLOWING... but heat is not being removed from it. Suspect inoperable flapper under the dash or perhaps a partially-plugged heatercore.

    If hose is NOT as hot as the hose feeding into the heatercore... then there is a problem with FLOW. (or perhaps air-pockets in the system)
  • I replaced the battery, now the truck idles rough and will only stay running if the gas is held down. Any help is appreciated
  • I have a 1999 dodge dakota 3.9 ltr. i have a knocking sound in the engine it don't do it when it is cold but when it warms up a bit it starts.I had a a small shop tell
    me he thought it was in the oil pan? the truck has really good oil pressure and doesn't use any in the 3000 mile change Thanks in advance.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    How many miles on the engine?

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, it's very difficult to attempt any diagnosis of this type of problem over the net. There are a number of components that could cause a knock, and then there are "knocks and then there are other "knocks."

    THe 3.9 is an exceptionally strong little V-6 design and over the years I've only seen one actually have a serious problem...and that was the fault of the owner. They most certainly don't have a reputation for connecting rod or main bearing failure, which I think is the implication when a noise is emanating from the oil pan area.

    Because your not hearing this noise when the engine is cold it could mean that you have a connecting rod bearing that is worn or has been damaged. However, excessive piston wear or a bad wrist pin can also produce a knock that sometimes appears to be coming from the oil pan.

    My recommendation is to get a stethiscope (sp?) and try to pin-point where the noise is comming from. Valve train components or a worn camshaft lobe can cause a knocking sound. I have seen two 3.9s with a bad timing chain and after dissassembly I noticed that the chain had been hitting the inside of the timing chain cover. They had a "knocking" sound, too. Don't forget accessory drive components, such as belts, pulleys, air conditioner pump, water pump, etc.

    I have also witnessed a few Dodge truck motors that had a knock caused by a stuck bypass valve in the oil filter. In these cases there was a noticeable drop in oil pressure after the engine came to operating temperature.

    What kind of motor oil have you been using?

    Best regards,
  • I have 2000 dakota 6cyl 4x4. It sat for a while this fall and I did not use it for about a month. I went to take it for a drive and the power steering was acting funky. First, the steering wheel was nearly impossible to budge. Pump was making a whining noise. I checked fluid and it was a little low so I filled it up and then worked the wheel back and forth until it loosened up. Problem solved, right? NOT! Ever since, when I park it for the night and go to drive it the next day, the steering wheel turns as if the enging were turned off. If I force it and turn it from coast to coast a couple times, it loosens up and then steers fine until I let it sit for a while again.

    Next issue. Engine is still bucking and backfiring and it downright refuses to go sometimes. Check engine light keeps coming on and code is for loose gas cap. I have done complete tune-up, all belts, 3 new gas caps, TPS, all to no avail. I just noticed the other day that my fuel filler pipe has a rust hole in it. Could this be causing the issue? I have heard someone mention that the problem could be due to a bad intake manfold gasket. Is this true? Is it a BIG job, as I do my own work usually. I am ready to bury this thing if I dont figure it out soon. I cant even trade it in running like this. Please help.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    It sounds to me likvacuume your pwr steering pump is going bad mine is starting to do the same thing to. The only other thing it could be is the rack but thats pretty rare.. A good way to find out if its a big job is to call a local shop and tell them what you want done and how many hours it calls for... I do beleive that is not a bad job though i dought thats your problem. There is also canister under the truck about at the tank that has vacuum lines on it that the lines get cracked and will set the light off
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yeah, your power steering problem could be the rack, but as the prior poster stated that's not very common on your year Dakota. I would guess that Saginaw (General Motors) power steering pump is beginning to fail.

    The symptoms you describe are typical for a bad intake manifold gasket and it was a problem on the earlier Magnum engines. I can't say I've seen or heard or a 2000 with this problem and i though Chrysler had that fixed by then. Of course, those very same symptoms can be caused by other things, like weak fuel supply or weak fuel pump, a bad fuel pressure regulator, a dirty throttle body, vacuum leaks from any number of rubber hoses, a weak ignition coil, bad spark plugs, etc.

    If you have a hole in your fuel filler tube you will definitely get a P0465 or P0456 code for sure.

  • was wondering if i am missing something here with this engine? drove truck on sat.(ran fine) then went to work on mon. started to die at intersections idles very rough but starts fine when cold. there is no coolant bubling when running, or excessive oil blo-by, no intake or exhaust popping, changed plugs, coolant temp,checked injectors/coils all good pulled valve cover & all o.k. do i need a motor??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here is the scoop on your 2000 power steering. (assuming you have the 4.7L 4.7L V8 "semi-hemi" engine)

    For model-year 2000 the Dakota got a brand-new front end design. It replaced the old steering-box-with a rack-n-pinion. The 4.7L V8 "semi-hemi" engine also had a brand-new design PS pump.

    For model-year 2001, the specified fluid for this system changed to SYNTHETIC PS fluid. I suspect that Dodge discovered that "normal" PS fluid was not sufficent. Dodge changed the spec for the 2001 Daks to be ATF+4 (synthetic ATF fluid)

    Personally, in my 2000, my steering was VERY stiff anytime the ambient temparture was below minus 5F. I tried several different PS fluids and most of them were troublesome.

    I now run "RedLine power steering fluid" which is 100% PAO esters. (the very best synthetic lube that man can make) Since switching, I have NEVER had any issues with stiff steering no matter what the ambient temparture is.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    THe 4.7L V8 semi-hemi engine has proven itself to be VERY reliable. (There are very few other engines on the road that use a girdle made of special iron for the bottom end or MAGNESIUM valvecovers.)

    What do you mean when you say you have "zero compression".... did you actually check the compression with a compression tester and ALL eight cylinders read zero? I simply cannot beleive it.

    When was the last time you cleaned your IAC and checked your TPS? (I clean my IAC at least once a year.)

    Also, a PCV valve stuck open would cause the symptoms you describe

    IAC = Idle Air Controller
    TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
    PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventalation
  • i have no comp. in cyl. 1&4 others have 130# cleaned I.A.C & checked T.P.S. GOOD WORKING ORDER & up to spec'.yes it was checked w/ a real compression tester, looked down plug hole w/ bore scope valves appear to be working inside as well as visual check on valve train.
  • I use Moble 1 and have for about 30,000 miles
  • this engine is really pretty strong and carries good oil pressure it runs cool just has that knock when it warms up, the truck has had a new distributer put in at 35,000 and a new catalytic converter (excuse spelling)at about 40,000 mi.
  • Hopefully somebody can assist me with a problem I'm having regarding a waterpump I just installed. I just put a new waterpump on my 2000 Dodge Dakota Pickup. The pump works fine, but the engine tempature skyrockets up to past 260 degrees. I'm thinking their's a vapor lock in the engine that's not letting water flow over the Thermostat, therefore it's not opening to let water flow thru the engine. Hopefully somebody has a solution to this problem.

    Any assistance anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated.


  • bthevbthev Posts: 2
    I've got a major loss of MPG(8-15) and it's getting worse! Problem was first noticed after a coolant change, oil change, and belt replacement at a shop. The belt was replaced to bypass the failing compressor. Also I went with a high mileage oil this time (117000 miles). Took it to a different shop and they didn't find any codes, they also did a fuel injector test...all OK. Replaced PCV, plugs, wires, rotor and cap. There is also a noticable ticking sound coming from the engine. Clutch also needs to be replaced but I haven't noticed any major slipping. I also hear a whining noise behind my drivers seat, not like wind, but like rubber or gears. Tires OK.

    Here are my thoughts:
    1. Problems with valves and lifters
    2. Exhaust leaks
    3. Computer needs an update
    4. Compressor actually improves engine performance
    5. More transmission problems than I realize

    Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!

    SPECIAL NOTE: I have been using Bosch Platinum plugs before and after the MPG problem..they work fine. The split type give better economy and the single type more power.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    What engine?

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