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Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

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  • I have a 2005 Dakota 2WD Quad Cab 5-speed automatic with a 4.7. I bought it new. After owning it 1500 miles or so, I noticed a vibration through the cab, very strong, at 72 mph in overdrive, and 59 mph w/ overdrive off, both at 2200rpm. I brought it to my selling dealer, who agreed that the noise and vibration did not feel normal. Their technician, over the next two months of service visits, replaced the flexplate, torque converter, short block (they said maybe the crankshaft was machined improperly), harmonic balancer, driveshaft, complete exhaust system, and three of the four tires. A lot of wasted warranty time and parts, as it still has EXACTLY the same noise and vibration at the same speeds. It does not do it at idle - I have to be driving at road speed, and the vibration is stronger under load, like driving up a long steady hill. Any similar complaints - ideas??
  • will a 1993 3.9 V6 dakota engine interchange with a 1995 3.9 V6 dakota engine? If so what all needs to be changed to make it work?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The only vibration I had with my Dak was one of the Ujoints on the rear axle wore out. It was replaced under warantee.
  • Hi all, i'm having troubles with my dakota...it's a 94 sport, 3.9 automatic 2 wheel drive.

    so, when i start the truck, it shimmies n shakes, if you give it gas while still in park, it has a high pitched whine that accelerates and goes down with the engine....can't figure it out....when you drive, it seems to be sluggish, like somethings holding it back, tranny seems to shift when it suppose to but hits hard and winds out a little when goin into 3rd....tranny fluide is full and doesn't look or smell burnt. we recently put on new brakes, rotors (on front), and rims with wider tires off a durango...but do not have a lift on it yet, so the tires rub a little, but they don't seem to be the problem as this is going on when the truck is in park and you give it gas.....

    also, it's not throwing any codes....

    :sick:

    any suggestions on what to try or what it could be? thanks in advance
  • I've recently become a Mopar enthusist since my Procharged 383 S-10 was spanked by a 95' dakota with a procharged 360. With the S-10 days left behind I purchased a 94' dakota SLT, and with all the mustangs running around un-cheked I'm ready for a possible swap from a 318 to a 360 (bad valve knock!) But everyone warns me and no-one will help! Will some one help Me put these mustangs to rest! I just need the recipe, I'll cook it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    How about this K-car? I was present to watch this happen. The crowd was laughing until the lights turned green.

    Keep in mind that car in the other lane is a REAR DRIVE Toyota Supra with a turbocharged, twin-rotor Mazda engine.

    That K-car is 4-cylinder FWD WITHOUT nitrous and it can blow away hondas, mustangs and most any other car. It is inexpensive to make those K-cars go fast. (just add turbocharger)
  • sjefferssjeffers Posts: 9
    first you need a block reconditioned 0.020 over 360 LA type ,cast-iron stock stroke [3.58] crank , KBsilv-0-lite hypereutectic flat top 1.58-inch [pn 4876907 or 1.63-inch pn4876908 compression height , reconditioned forged steel,stock-length 6.123 inches the cam is up to you depen on how you want /where the power will work for you crane cam rocker arms shaft-mount 1.5:1 adjustable , double roller timing set , the heads aerohead chrysler 340/360 [915or587castings] reconditioned [stock iron castings with 2.02/1.60-inch valves,0.509-inch-lift springs,bronze guides,chrome-moly retainers,7-degree iocks,performer RPM intake and 750 cfm or holly injection should make 375hp-400/410lb-ft torque it all depends an cam shaft ,aluminum heads are good to ,good luk
  • Thanks much! Sounds like I'll be setting up an acount with PAW and Jegs! I'll post pics and vid when I'm done. Angain thank You!!!
  • sjefferssjeffers Posts: 9
    i forgot you will also need a harmonic ballecer the 360 is externaly balleced allso the flex plate if you use the one off your 318 you need a wait on the coverter .I just built a 93 360 but i used the stock intake do to funds .had to port the intake to match the 360 head ports .that is starving the pore girl but still runs good put stuby headers on and had custume exaust duels with hi flow converters and aero turbine mufflers igot a picture of the truck in carspace. hope to see what yougot see ya
  • I almost forgot! What about the motor mounts? Do I have to mess with relocating them or do I just get 360 mounts and button it up?
  • sjefferssjeffers Posts: 9
    just make sure that the block has the exstra mount holes ,look were your engine mounts are on you 318 thay bolt on like a chevy 3 bolts .got a engine built by S&S engine remanufacturing found it on GOOGLE it is a good start price is wright just ask for a short block then build it from there pull the 318 out and put the 360 in just remember the ballacer the torqconverter and the oil pan for 360 truck you got it made.
  • sjefferssjeffers Posts: 9
    check this out buy hot rod April 08 theres a 360 buildup youl like that
  • steve174steve174 Posts: 1
    hi i been having a problem with my truck the gages are not working and its not getting any spark. the problem started a few weeks ago it wouldn't start then a few day later it started. then it would just suddenly die. then would not start again then it started a few days later i drove it for about 15 mins around the block and parked it and it hasent started since.

    thanks
  • kdm172kdm172 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota V6 A/T 4x4
    My problem is that I lose power after about 50mph I push the pedal all the way down and there is no response it will slowly get up but it takes its sweet time...
    Was told either the timing is off or the fuel pump is clogged by the dodge dealer, any suggestions??

    Thanks,
    David
  • My Dodge Dakota starts ok but you have to keep your foot on the gas peddel to keep it running. I unhooked the battery then hooked it back up. Started the truck and it idled like new for two days then went back to not idling. Unhooked the battery- hooked it back up idles ok. No check eng. light, the only code is 12 for unhooking the battery. Did'nt think to check colds befor unhooking the battery the first time.
  • moquelvogmoquelvog Posts: 21
    My 97 Dakota, as the title would suggest, idles around 2000rpm when cold. I immediately turn off and start again and it idles at a norm 600rpm. ??? No check engine and problem doesn't go away when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected. Any ideas out there?

    Omen
  • Miss lasts for only a brief time.Usually occurs on light acceleration but at any speed. Have replaced spark plugs and wires,checked distributor bushing,tried a new EGR.The miss just goes away and will come back after a period of time from one hour to several days,the warmer the day the more likely it is to occur.I installed a new K&N air filter a while ago but can't see this causing the problem.Hope someone has a suggestion!
  • Hi, I have a great 2001 extended cab with the 4.7 V8 which I love. The only problem is the engine crapped out with 170,000 on it. It has a gray sludge in the valve train due to metal in the oil. did not take it apart further to find out the exact failure. My mechanic is an old friend that I trust, and he said that the 4.7 engine is overly prone to failure and he would not waist his time with a rebuild or a used engine. He says to cut our losses and sell it for parts and start over with a vehicle with a better drive train. But we love the dakota so we are torn. Please any advice would be apreciated. Thank you, Todd :sick: :cry:
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Posts: 52
    I have a 2001 dodge dakota with the 4.7 with 204,000 miles and counting. I change the oil every 5000 miles with no oil added between changes. I would rebuild the engine if you choose since it has been proven because 170,000 is not too shabby. I usually take "sage" advice from others like your mechanic friend with a grain of salt.

    Robert
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You can tell your "mechanic" that he's full of you know what! I will bet he is a just another Dodge hater. The 4.7 IS NOT prone to failure. Just the opposite, in fact, it is one of the best designed if not the best designed and built American engine on the planet.

    The gray sludge, by the way, is likely material from the camshaft chain tensioners wearing badly. What kind of oil have you been using?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I concour with dustyk!

    The 4.7L semi-hemi actually WON AWARDS when it was first introduced. It is overbuilt even for a truck engine. (Nodular iron bedplate usually found on hi-tech racing engines!!)

    Everywhere one looks at the 4.7L, there are surprises in the design. From the close factory toleraces to the extra-high piston-ring pressures. The hollow camshafts which deliver oil directly where it is needed. This engine is designed for the long-haul.

    Of course, some folks ignore the recommended oil specs which are there for a reason.

    BTW: I changed the oil in my 2000 4.7 thisafternoon! (I am still running synthetic oil due to the emulsion issue.)
  • Hi,
    This is cory. I have a dodge full size truck doing the same thing. Just wondering if you figured out what was wrong with your dakota?
  • bryanajbryanaj Posts: 2
    just switched out my high mile engine with same yr.1991 engine 3.9L,the motor ran excellent prior to installing, now engine expands oil filter and it leaks around the seal on the oil filter. Is there an oil pump regulator in the engine? :mad: HELP!!!!
    :confuse:
  • bryanajbryanaj Posts: 2
    I haven't figured it out yet, and it's driving me crazy! The engine was running fine when we pulled it out of the old truck. I'd be good to go if I could fix this problem!
  • syn5syn5 Posts: 1
    My 99 Dakota does the same thing. My mechanic found that it is the IAC Motor. I decided not to replace as it only acts up on cold mornings and resets itself with a second start.
  • fireman725fireman725 Posts: 1
    I am rebuilding the engine of my 2001 3.9 liter dodge dakota. I have to replace 3 pistons and connecting rods, this will make me have 3 old pistons and 3 new pistons. Will this matter in the performance of the engine when we I start running it again? I'd rather not spend the money to buy all 6 new ones but would it be worth spending the extra money replacing all of them or no? :sick:
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    To start out I have a 1994 dodge dakota V8 5.2 liter automatic. ABout a month ago I started to loose power and it would die on me. So I replace the EGR Valve as suggested by people on forum.

    But today while driving, the truck sounded as if it was not in gear and then would not accelerate well no matter how much I pushed down on the gas. Then it sounded as if there was air coming out of a hose. When I pulled over and took a look it smelled like melting plastic. The plastic part of the EGR valve was melted. So I replaced the EGR valve again.

    And after a few blocks it sounded as if the valve blew again. ANd sure enough the valve looks as if the very center of the plastic piece is melted or blew straight down the center of it.

    Any help or suggestion of what I can do would be really great.
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    This might be a bit late but have you checked the EGR valve? It is not the cheapest part (about $100) but is very easy to replace. Let us know what you figure out.
  • jyrojyro Posts: 4
    Todd,

    I would love to speak to you regarding your 2001 Dakota with engine failure. If you can click on my username and find an email address, shoot me a quick email. I'll reply back to you.

    If you can't find an email, reply to this thread and let me know that. And I'll put my email address on here. Thanks.

    - Jason :)
  • nanellnanell Posts: 11
    SO after dealing with 2 dodge dealers and the local shop found out that the catalatic converter was the problem. It had broken in ternal part that where causing the exaust to be to hot and that was what melted the Egr valve.

    SO got that replaced and then put in the 3rd EGR valve and it runs like it should again. Wow forgot what a beast it is. Thank you to our local Shucks who replaced not 1 but 2 melted EGR valves under warranty for us. There customer service is awesome. ANd I have to drive by 4 other parts stores to get to them but it is worth it.
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