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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
Here's the discussion to talk about any issue you have with electricity or an electrically-powered component.

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  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    My turn signals on my 2000 Dodge Dakota stopped flashing. Bulbs are ok. Both left and right are affected. Sometimes they will flash once, twice, or a few times. They will not continue to flash until turned off.

    I went to the parts department of the dealer to get a flasher. They sold me a 'relay' for $47. Owner's manual does not show a location.

    Anyone have any advice as to the problem. If the 'relay', where can I find it in the truck?

    As yet I cannot locate it in the truck.
  • On my 2001 quad, that relay is underside of the dash to the left of the steering column. If you never pulled the lower steering dash cover to see exactly where that relay is, it's probably best to remove that lower cover attached with the 3 screws. You can then see that ~ 1" wide by about 2" long relay housing. There are 3 relays inside that black box I pulled mine apart the other day with another problem I had to look. Once you know where that relay housing is, you can reach underneath to the right of the support column and feel it without pulling off that lower dash section, and you would need to lift the housing upwards to remove it from the connector socket..My radio and blinkers stopped working along with my heater fan at any speeds. Reseating all the fuses and relays in the engine compartments electrical box corrected my radio and blinkers..unless just a coincidence, but who cares, its all working.
    Good Luck Ger.
  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    Thanks, Ger, I will see if mine is the same. It seems to be correcting itself as today it worked most of the time normally, but at times would blink only a couple of times before it would shut off. Moving the lever to off and turning it back on would sometimes cause it to work, so I am beginning to suspect the switch in the column. A couple of weeks ago I had a problem with the light dimmer switch shutting off the headlights when switching to dim from bright. That went away after two days. Weird grimlin!

  • Just a general note also. When was last time your battery was replaced? Only noting cuz I had engine idling problems and others had intermittent strange sporatic problems when the battery was 4-6 yrs old..Replaced lately? I swapped and turned around some fuses and also swapped same type relays anywhere I could to also see if intermittent problems could be resolved. Let us know your "Fix". Ger.
  • My 1997 Dakota started turn signal problems about 1999, just after warranty ran out. Dodge mechanic replaced turn signal assembly, then turn signal flasher (relay). Next year I replaced the same relay. About 2003 the same symptoms appeared and the Dodge mechanic replaced the whole fuse panel. It seems ok right now. Good luck on yours. CRUDMUDGE
  • bdret101bdret101 Posts: 1
    how to replace the rear turn signal bulb.
  • jake37jake37 Posts: 2
    Hi- I have a '99 Dakota and I have a blockage in either the tubing or nozzles behind the firewall that I can't clear by blowing into the line from the pump to the firewall or by inserting a pin into the nozzle holes to clean them out. I have tried blowing out the tubing by cutting the short piece of tubing coming from the pump to the firewall and inserting the nozzle of the air compressor into the tubing. It appears that I will have to remove the cowel and disconnect the feed tubes from the nozzles and blow back toward the pump to clear the blockage. Prior postings on this forum indicate that some members of this forum have had the same problem and had to blow the lines out but how is this accomplished?
  • jake37jake37 Posts: 2
    Hi- I was able to finally clear the blockage in the windshield washer tubing by making an adapter to fit the ID of the tube entering through the firewall. I made an adapter out of an unused tapered plastic nozzle with steps to trim that comes with a lot of tubes of sealant and etc. I then used the small piece of the tubing that I originally cut out of the line from the pump to the firewall to use as a seal between the tip of the air gun nozzle and the ID of the plastic adapter.. (The ID of the tubing fit perfectly over the end of the air gun nozzle.) I then inserted the tip of the plastic adapter into the end of the hose that enters the firewall and got a nice tight fit. I then inserted the air gun tip and pressurized the hose to the nozzles and the passengers side nozzle started spitting wiper fluid. After pressurizing the line several times the drivers side nozzle cleared and I was home free. Previously I had a lot of compressed air leakage when I first tried to blow out the lines due to the mismatch between the air gun nozzle and the ID of the tubing. I refilled the fluid reservoir by using a funnel with a fine mesh paint filter and I did find some granular material that probably caused the original blockage. When I add fluid from now on I will strain the fluid and of course I will try the Prestone fluid in place of the cheap stuff I had been using. I am glad I joined the forum as it will be useful to me in the future.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Thanks for posting that solution. Maybe that will help someone else in the same boat.

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  • rudakorudako Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Dakota and the fuel gauge will just drop to zero and the low fuel alarm will turn on for about 5 seconds and then everything goes back to normal. This happens every ten minutes or so…any ideas?
  • the other day i got into my 1994 dakota and the headlights were working then i shut them off and then went to turn them back on and they didnt turn on only the parking lamps and the taillight lit up and i replaced the head lamp switch and still nothing but i do get headlights when u hold back on the dimmer switch but as soon as u let it go they go out if sumone has ne answer i would be more than glad to liten thanks CoTToNeYeJoE94
  • hi i finally figured out what was wrong it was the headlight switch itself not the dimmer but if anyone has this problem check your switch first. thanks
  • Heater fan was only working on high, and found out that the resistor board was defective. I replaced the board ($15) and it lasted about 1 month. I replaced the part again and it lasted 1 day. I am thinking I may have other electrical problems causing the resistor board to blow. Does anybody have any thoughts as to what may be the problem? I am not experiencing any other electrical problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here are some other items that may cause burnout.

    *)Fan motor drawing too much current.
    *)Blocked airflow. (the resistor is mounted in the airflow to keep it from burning out!!)
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sorry. I know this is a late reply.

    Inspect the connector and the five wires that connect to the resistor board. Using a strong light, look closely at the terminals as well as the wires from the top of the connector. Are there any signs of corrosion (green residue) or melted plastic? Pay close attention to the two strped wires in pins 1 & 2. Do they looked burned or show signs of the insulation melting?

    If so, the contact resistance is high or the conductivity has been reduced at the terminals and is causing conductor overheating.

    Order Chrysler part 5017124-AA to repair. This kit contains new wires with crimped on terminals and a connector body with a new moisture sealing membrane.

  • We have been experiencing electrical problems with our 1999 Dodge Dakota RT and need some help. First, all of the warning lights lit up on the dash. Mileage indicator read NO BUS. Then, we disconnected the battery and all the warining lights reset. Now all of the interior lights stay lit up when the truck is running and also when the ignition is off. Any ideas on what needs to be replaced or what we need to do? Thanks.
  • kjcdr1kjcdr1 Posts: 26
    for the '01 Dakota Quad cab. The owners manual says the IOD (ignition-off draw) fuse should be pulled if the vehicle will be dormant for 21 days or more. It also says the fuse is located in the fuse block on the left end of the instrument panel--specifically in cavity #12. Further instructions say there is a snap-in retainer for this fuse that allows it to be disconnected without removing it from the fuse block.

    The listing inside the panel cover lists #12 as the Starter fuse and there is no listing for an IOD fuse. I tried pulling #12 fuse and there was no snap-in retainer. If anyone can tell me how to identify the IOD fuse and where it is located, it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you in advance. Ken
  • I replaced some gaskets recently and now I can not remember where the little black box that is connected to the long plug wire is mounted. It is a 95 V-6. Thanks.
  • I had my right headlight assembly replaced and began noticing that all my lights (headlights, running lights, and dash lights) would blink off. They return immediately but it is very disconcerting to have it happen. It can happen up to 10 times in my 40 minute drive to work. I have checked for a pinched wire on the new headlight assembly and have attempted to determine which relay might be at fault. I am stumped; can anyone help?
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