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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • dusty9dusty9 Posts: 4
    After 4 tows to the shop the truck stayed dead long enough for them to find the problem. It turned out to be a "crank angle sensor"-it is attached to the distributor somehow. This thing has been going bad for months but would only stay bad for a few hours, days or minutes so by the time I got it into the shop it would start right up. Finally it died for good. -a $50 part that cost me almost a grand in detective work and towing.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Glad to hear the problem has been solved. The term "crank angle sensor" is foreign to Mopar parlance, I suspect the defective part was the Crankshaft Position Sensor or a Hall Effect Distributor Sensor. Crankshaft Position Sensors were a somewhat common failure item on Dakotas of your vintage.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mski1mski1 Posts: 1
    Having a weird issue with my Dakota. 1996 SLT 4x4 V6.

    Headlights/tailights do not work
    Power locks either don't work or when you push one it clicks really fast multiple times.

    Also, turning the headlights on, pressing the brake pedal or using the locks will cause the ABS and Brake light (on instrument cluster) to come on.

    Checked as many grounds as I could find and nothing seems to work as of yet, :sick:

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance

    Mike
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    In the absence of any diagnostic data, either preliminary visual (fuses, etc.) or actual voltages checks, I'd be suspicious of a defective Central Timer Module (CTM). However, I would suggest getting a wiring diagram and performing some voltage checks. I'm not sure what bearing a bad CTM would have on the ABS lamp illuminating at the moment, but a common component to the power locks, taillights, and headlights is the CTM.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • 99 Dokata 5.2L - Won't start. It was getting gas, spark, air... everything was testing OK. I replaced the Crankshaft sensor but it didn't help. Checked the Camshaft sensor. It was reading good at 5V. The next step was to replace the PCM (ugh! $200 bucks minimum!). I cranked it over one last time to see if it kicked out any codes. My son noticed a blue spark close to the passenger side firewall. Sure enough! The heater hose covering had rubbed the spark plug wire and somehow, it was grounding out. We separated the hose from the wire, and it fired right up! We then replaced all of the spark plug wires and the distributor cap and button. So - Lessons learned - check all the basics before replacing components. (Although, we did check for spark on some of the plugs and eliminated that as a possible problem.)

    Bob
  • mchasemchase Posts: 3
    Similar to a post last month, my dome/cab light stays on after I start the engine in my 99 Dakota. So I am currently driving around with the dome light on. It does eventually turn off after the engine is shut off, the key is removed, and the door is closed. I think the final thought, on the previous post, was that the CTM had gone bad. I have a couple of other questions.

    0) Does that sound logical here?

    1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like?

    2) Can I replace it myself?

    3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer?

    4) About how much should a programed CTM cost?

    5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer?

    Thanks
    Mike
  • SBoyleSBoyle Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota Sport. My dash lights and tail lights do not work. Checked the fuses and it was blown. I replaced it everything was fine for a few days. Today got in truck rode down the road suddenly no dash or taillights. Fuse blown changed it and the fuse blew again. Please tell me how to look for the short or if anyone has any idea how to fix this I would greatly appreciate it . Thank you
    SBoyle :cry:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    0) Does that sound logical here?

    Yes.

    1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like?

    I'm not positive on '99s, but on 2001s an up the CTM is located behind the driver's kick panel (Cowl Side Inner Panel) on the left side of the cab, approximately where your left foot would rest while driving. The CTM is a relatively square-looking module and has three connectors.

    2) Can I replace it myself?

    Absolutely.

    3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer?

    No.

    4) About how much should a programed CTM cost?

    N/A

    5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer?

    They were about $170 from Dodge the last time I needed one. I believe they are available from places like Auto Zone, etc. I'm sure they're cheaper at an auto parts store.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • This must be a short somewhere. 1998 SLT 4x4 5.2L has been remarkably trouble free for it's 100K miles. Looked out the window and thought someone was trying to make off with the truck, but there was no one around, and ignition was off, but brake lights were on. Jiggled, then disconnected the switch on the brake pedal arm and observed no change. Turn signal overrides the short and the lamps blink appropriately. Disconnected the lights and trailer plug but still getting a live brake light signal at the harness connector at the back. I plugged everything back in and the lights were out. Now I see them staying on sometimes and going off otherwise. I love intermittent problems.

    Just found this site and thought to throw this out, maybe there might be a suspected component before I start a long tedious search.

    If I had to guess, I would suspect the signal switch, but ....??

    thanks a bunch. jjs
  • mchasemchase Posts: 3
    Thanks Dusty

    Mike
  • Hi, i recently bought a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6. A couple weeks ago i was driving down the road and noticed my check gauges light started flashing. I ignored it and continued driving when all of a sudden the truck just died and lost all power. I flagged another truck down and asked for a jump thinking it was just a dead battery. So i got my truck jumped and continued on home. Not even 5 minutes later the check gauges light started to flash again. I kept driving and just as i pulled onto my street the truck died again. I then went and brought a brand new battery to see if that would help. The next day while driving it died again. So i had my father come down and give me a jump and just made it back home. I decided to get a new alternator thinking that would be the next probable cause. But again after replacing the alternator the truck died and would not hold a charge. I then decided to have a look at all the fuses. All fuses were fine but i noticed that the power distribution box looked to be missing a wire running from the 140 amp alternator fuse??. It has one wire feeding into it from the positive terminal of the battery but looks to be missing a wire coming out the other side??????? Just wondering if there should be a wire feeding into each side of the alternator amp????
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sounds like a short or a bad stop light switch.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My apologies, but unfortunately I can't recall a "140 amp" fuse anywhere in the electrical system. Of course, I am getting old.

    I wonder if you are referring to the fusible link? I can't for the life of me figure out how something could be missing on a vehicle that ran fine one minute then died another. Let's approach this another way.

    Connect a voltmeter to the correct terminals of the battery (positive meter lead to positive post; negative meter lead to negative post). You should be reading something over +12.5 volts with a fully charged battery. A partially drained battery will yield a lower voltage.

    Start the engine. If you are in a cold weather area of the country, the voltmeter should be reading anywhere from +13 to +14.7 volts at initial start up and slowly drop as the battery charges. If the voltage drops from your initial reading after start up, the battery is not receiving any charge current from the alternator. This then is the problem to troubleshoot.

    If the battery is receiving a charge, you probably have an intermittent problem. Check for bad connections at the alternator, Power Distribution Center (PDC), and to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • hey guys...
    i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery.

    plz help!
  • Howdy, I had the same exact problem with my 2002 dakota 4.7 v8. It is the only reason I joined this forum. Your problem is the Central Control Module. It is a black box (5"X5")with a circuit board in it. It controls the timers. Two screws and plug it in. Done! You will have to check your manual to re-set your auto door locks and you will need to have your key fobs re-programmed. Mine was mounted vertically behind the lower left kick panel, I imagine you will find yours there. The part is about $250 at the dealer. I raised some hell at the dealership citing that it was it was a poor design/quality issue. I ended up getting it for $185. Just to reassure you, my problem was exactly the same with the flickering and clicking. Take care.
  • I went and looked at my old module. It actualy has three plugs and it may be called a central timing module. I guess my memory is going. Anyway it will take care of the problem.
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    Where is the CTM on a 95 Dakota and what does it look like?
  • Sorry. I don't know. Does it have lights that turn off on a timer, auto-locks or keyless entry? On my 2002 has the ctm under the lower left kick panel. It is a black box that is about 5 x 5 1.25 inches. It has three plugs on one side and screws to the body. Good luck
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    no automatic lights, locks, or keyless entry. CTM is not in the left kick panel. there is a box on the right side behind the glove box but its rectangular and only has one plug so i'm not sure. i called the local dodge parts dealer and asked for a CTM and they didn't know what i was talking about.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, on older Daks the CTM was behind the right side kick panel, I believe. My son had one fail on his '91, but he's not around to ask tonight.

    All the things you mention that aren't working could be related to the CTM, except the tachometer.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mchasemchase Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I had trouble with my cab lights staying on when I was driving my 99 dakota (4WD 5.2L). I tried to replace the CTM. I purchased a new module from the dealer. When I installed the new module and reconnected the battery the truck would not start. The cab lights and all seemed to work fine but the engine would not kickover.
    It does sound like the starter motor is trying.

    I then tried to reinstall the original module, but as soon as I reconnected the battery negative wire the alarm started to sound. I could not shut off the alarm or start the truck.

    Any suggestions on how to get the new CTM to work or to reset the old CTM module?

    I asked the dealer if the new module needed to be programed. They said only to get the keyless remote to work. They said that I should be able to start and drive the truck after I installed the new module.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Mike,

    If you talked to a parts person, then I can understand their answer. Unfortunately, the CTM has two fused ignition circuits: one for Accessories and another for Start. So, yes, the CTM can have an influence on engine start.

    However, if the stater is engaging the flywheel and trying to turn the engine over, I suspect you may have another problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dsweetdsweet Posts: 15
    Can I please get some assistance with this code P0441 and Is there something I can do or do I have to have a dealer fix the problem. Its a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    P0441 means "Evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow"

    The number1 reason for this is GAS CAP which is not sealing properly. The owners-manual says to get 3 full clicks when tightening. Try tightening, or even replacing the gas cap. Don't use a cheap after market one though.

    If you need to know more about the EVAP diagnostics and why they may fail, PLEASE use the search function. I have explained in explicit detail least 12 times over the past 8 years here on Edmunds. It is usually trivial to isolate the problem.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    As Bpeebles said, the fuel cap is the number 1 reason for a P0441. If you've never replaced the fuel cap, its a likely bet that's the problem.

    If a new cap doesn't solve the problem, there are several possibilities. One of the most common are cracked/split purge lines that go from the Evaporative Canister to the fuel tank, or to the Leak Detection Pump (LDP). If you don't have a Leak Detection Pump, you will have a Evaporative Purge Solenoid (EPS) which is mounted on the firewall.

    Of course, you could have an electrical problem with either a LDP or a EPS.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • The front turn signals have two bulbs. If one of them is burnt out it will cause the ones that work to blink faster than normal.

    Check the right front signal to get an idea of where the lights are located and you should see two lights when the signal is activated.

    Now check the left side to see which of the two bulbs does not function.

    Hope this helped.
  • TbubTbub Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 2wd 3.9 v6. I need to know the wiring for the bright lights behind the plug. I have a cut wire and when i placed it back together i cant get brights on one side. Does anyone know which wire behind the plug is for the brights?

    Thanks
  • lpgamboalpgamboa Posts: 1
    Can anyone advise me? I just found out I need a new fuse block. The mechanic says it will be $450.00 parts and labor. Is this price high? Does anyone know a trustworthy mechanic in the Houston Texas area?
    Thanks :confuse:
  • jcormjcorm Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Dakota and was driving the other day and the radio went dead. Then I went to turn and I had no blinkers. Everything else worked fine. Turned the truck off and then restarted and everything was fine. I found that if I wiggle the key while driving the blinkers and radio will go off and on. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    It sounds like you have a worn ignition switch.

    Regards,
    Dusty
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