Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

1141517192026

Comments

  • Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the same problem and had to take the vehicle off the road until fixed.
  • rdownwardrdownward Posts: 1
    If you haven't already found the solution to your problem in the forum postings, here it is. Your problem is the Central Timer & Alarm Module. You will need to replace the module to solve your problem. They are available from any Dodge dealership or I ordered one on-line from MoparPartsAmerica.com at a cost of $174.80 plus shipping. Once you replace the module, you will have to go to a dealership service department and have them re-program your remote key fobs. It requires an OBDII code reader and specific instructions from the service manual to do it. I found a helpful guy at a local dealership here who did it for nothing, but you should expect to pay for 30 minutes labor if you can't find a good samaritan to do it for you. The module is located behind the driver's side kick plate just in front of the driver's door. It has two retainers that hold it in place and can be removed by pulling the bottom toward the back door first and then sliding the top tab out and pulling it the rest of the way out. There are three plugs on the module. Just replace the module and then plug the three plugs into their respective receptacles. It's a fast and easy fix. Hope this helps.
  • jd110jd110 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota, headlights stopped working and I determined it was the headlight switch and replaced it. All worked fine until I turned on the high beams and the new switch immediately burned out. Any Ideas?
  • tufftoystufftoys Posts: 1
    OK I have a 1994 Dak. club cab 4x4 auto 318. I just bought the truck and the ammeter is soooo pointing (-). I checked the alt. (low 13v) and the battery is also ok. And yes I knew it when I bought it. When I bought it it had 1/4 of a tank registered so I filled the tank only 13 gal. hmm. Got back to the house and noticed that the fuel gauge was still on 1/4 tank hmm. I put into 4wd and now the fuel gauge is reading empty. Yes I called the guy I bought it from to no avail. He said he had no idea, he himself just 4 months prior bought the truck and drove it from Delaware to Charleston SC straight to me, joy! I hate electrical problems!

    :confuse:
  • Hiya , I have a 99 Dakota Sport. Since I am Having problems with my Instrument panel. My check engine light,ABS and brake lights are always on.My spedomter and millage works fine but the panel is not showing the security light nor the seatbelt light.My turn signals stoped working as well. I ckd the fuse and its fine, as my emergency flasher are working. Can anyone help me determine how i can fix this. I also wanted to say that I am a proud owner of this truck. Has been a great lil guy.
  • lsburrislsburris Posts: 1
    try and describe short as I can! Truck would not crank 2 wks ago, no flashe codes on dash. The last time it ran, was very rough. changed 02 sensor, fixed vacuum lines, truck cranked right up, but loss of power on acceleration. Had an overheating problem, changed thermostat, busted radiator hose, changed hoses. Temp on CatCon front to back over 200 deg's difference. Cut CatCon off completely.., truck ran fine, no more over-heating, good power. Few days later, ran fine for a couple hrs around town, stopping starting.., temp good. Last stop, cranked like it was running on half the cly's, turned off, re-cranked, sounded like 6 of 8 cyl's, eased down road, smoothed out, running great, but bogging down on acceleration. Another couple days, running fine, good temp, good power.., turned off, then would NOT re-crank at all. Just turning over! Had it towed home..., not sure NOW what to ck! Everything we did, seemed to fix the problem... run a while, now doesn't "again"!!! Thanks, Lynn & Michael
  • dd02dd02 Posts: 1
    Whenever I turn on my lights, after they have been on for a period, all of my exterior lights start to rapidly blink on and off. I have checked for burned out bulbs, but that is not the problem. I have an uncle that said that the emergency flasher relay may be going out or is bad. Does the problem or solution sound familiar to anyone?
  • On firewall components like the Dakota's resistor pack, if the component failed, it is likely due to corrosion at the terminals, which are exposed to the elements, being located under the hood. In this case, assume the connector has failed as well as the resistor pack. These are not as easy to find as are the relays but most people just cut out the bad connector and put crimp terminals on the wire ends. (mark where your wires belong before you cut!)
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    I've had the same problem for almost a year now. dash is still torn apart. can't figure it out
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    same thing with mine
  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Posts: 4
    I checked all the info that was posted here. What I found out was: 95 Daks don't have a Central timer module (CTM), these came on board in 97, all fuses under the dash, in the Power distro center (PDC) and fusible links were good. Knowing I'm not really good with electrical issues, I finally gave in and took it to the dealer. 1 day later I had it back and it's been fine since. The major tip off to the mechanic was when the brake pedal was pushed down, the ABS/brake and engine check light lit up. This was causing an electrical feed back in the system. Cause was a broken wire at the electrical connector on the firewall. Cost was about $200.00, but haven't had any problems since. Hope this helps those having the same problem(s).
  • I was installing aftermarket side mirrors and i mixed up a couple of wires (they are power mirrors). when i tested the connection w/ the "switch" i lost power to my radio, mirrors, and my dome light. Is there a fuse that connects all three of these? I checked my fuse box next to the dash and all fuses are not blown. can someone hlep me figure out what was blown so i can fix it?
  • westex93westex93 Posts: 1
    It's the IOD fuse. Trust me, I just fixed the exact problem on my '98 not ten minutes ago. The fuse is located in the fuse box inside the driver's side door. It will be the fuse on the bottom and toward the front of the panel with a black cover over it. Just pull the fuse holder straight out and snap the hinged cover forward to expose the fuse. Just a standard 10 amp automotive fuse and you're back in business! Of course, you may still need to find out what the problem is with your new mirror installation that caused the fuse to blow in the first place....

    Wes
  • You know... That would be the ONLY fuse in that truck that I did not check. I even went as far as takin my dash apart...... But thank you much for helping me out. I am now back in business.
  • spb1122spb1122 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem about two weeks ago. When the lights would flicker, the "security" light would flicker and the control panel lights would brighten and dim. Seemed to stop by itself. Now, the security light is on all the time, and my electric door locks aren't working (including the key fob).

    If you find anything out please let me know. I'll do the same.

    Thanks.
  • harrideharride Posts: 2
    I ran into this same issue on my 91 dakota. I found that the voltage regulator is in the main computer. The computer needs to be replaced. I did find a way around doing that by wiring in an external voltage regulator. The check engine light is still on but the charging system is working correctly till I have the money for a new computer. I found a voltage regulator at checker that came with a wire diagram to hook it up. I have had no problems after that. Its a quick fix and you only have to cut one wire on the altinator.
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    finally fixed mine. wire from 50 amp headlight fuse in power distribution box to headlight switch was corroded off at connector passing through firewall. thanks everyone for all the input.
  • rab211rab211 Posts: 5
    Did you ever find the problem, I have similar issues.
  • rab211rab211 Posts: 5
    Not sure if you already got your answer, but my suggestion would be to start with the resistor, it's a common problem and the part is only $15-20, and an easy 15 minute job. Just do a search on this website for complete instructions it under the glove box on the passenger side and the only thing to remember is to slide the red plastic piece on the wire harness in order to remove.
  • rab211rab211 Posts: 5
    Did you ever find your problem
Sign In or Register to comment.