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Ford Ranger Brake Problems



  • do you have any idea where to get those parts, cause i have the same problem with my 96 bronco :(
  • dwinmacdwinmac Posts: 4
    It's hard to believe but it is over a year now since I bought the 1987 Ford Ranger in South Carolina and took it to Rhode Island to convert it to an electric vehicle. We had it running last fall but didn't do much with it over the winter. It is up and running now( registered and inspected) in Rhode Island at my brother's house. He has been driving it to work.

    We ended up putting a new master cylinder and vacuum booster as well as adding a vacuum reservoir to get it to pass inspection.

    If you want to check it out go to

    If you have any questions you can email me at
  • cuccarocuccaro Posts: 3
    After sitting for a few days my 98, 4WD Ranger would not move. It looks like the right rear brake is stuck tight. I've backed off the adjustment as far as possible but still cannot get the drum off to see if the problem is the parking brake or otherwise. How in the world do I get the drum off? Thanks for help with frustration.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Hit the drum hard with a large hammer.
  • sce_thorsce_thor Posts: 2
    I have a "02 Ranger with no brake lights. I've tested the fuses and all are ok. The two that are assigned for the stop lights are good, but I'm not getting power to either side of the fuses. I'm guessing a bad relay or a fusible link somewhere.

    Can anybody tell me where there might be a relay I'm missing or a fusible link somewhere. I really don't want to dismantle the truck to find them.

    So if somebody can please help I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thank you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Are you sure it's a power problem? And there is no power to these fuses?

    The brake lights are usually hot all the time, even with ignition off. So, you might have blown up some major power source if there is no voltage coming in to the fuses.

    The usual problem with brake lights is the switch on the brake pedal under the dash. But if it's got no power.....
  • korypylekorypyle Posts: 1
    i have a 99 4x4 ranger and when i apply the brakes and just about to come to a stop the brake pedal goes the rest of the way to the floor allowing the truck to keep moving a couple feet morE then coming to a hard stop I ALREADY CHANGED BOTH FRONT CALIPERS AND NEW SHOES AND HARDWARE ON BACK AND FRONT "ALL HAS BEEN BLEED"
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad master cylinder?

    Was this the original problem? Or did it start after all the other brake work? If it only started after the other work, I would think there is still air in the system, even after the bleeding.

    Maybe even got air into the ABS system while trying to bleed the brakes. If you get air into the ABS pump, you cannot get the air out with the normal, old-fashioned bleeding procedure. You are going to have to take it to a shop with electronics that can communicate with the ABS system to get the air out.
  • sce_thorsce_thor Posts: 2
    Problem solved. Power is not supplied to the fuses until the brake pedal is depressed. The real problem was a bad ground going to the brake pedal switch. There is a small plastic bushing that prevents the pedal from having a ground since there is a ground already in the plug. I simply removed the plastic bushing and now have brake lights.
  • bigzomanbigzoman Posts: 4
    recently i had to replace a brake line for the left rear brake.i lost all the fluid in the brake fluid resevoir,after replacing the line i bled all the brake lines and the following day my abs light came on.can anyone tell me what the cause might be. the truck is a 99 4wheel drive with off road and towing package.thanks for any help you can give me.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Read my post three message back. Air in the ABS system cannot be removed with the 'normal' bleeding procedure. You have to have a Scan Machine connected to the vehicle which will turn on the ABS pump, which will push the air out of the ABS system. Take it to a shop that has this equipment.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    "Power is not supplied to the fuses until the brake pedal is depressed. The real problem was a bad ground going to the brake pedal switch. There is a small plastic bushing that prevents the pedal from having a ground since there is a ground already in the plug. I simply removed the plastic bushing and now have brake lights. "

    Well, that's not how I think the brake system works. The power goes thru the fuse first (what good does a fuse do if the power doesn't go there first), then to the brake switch on the pedal, then when the brake is depressed and the switch closes, power goes to the rear brake lights, then to ground in the rear of the vehicle.

    I think you have a sticky brake switch, and when you messed with it you got it to work. I think you should just replace the brake switch, putting the plastic bushing back because this is part of the switch, Your switch will probably give you more problems in the future.

    In owning my 1994 Ranger for about 8 years, I replace the brake switch three times. This include one Ford switch and two aftermarket ones. For some reason, these switches do not last long.
  • Thanks bolivar,I have an appointment to get it done next week,thanks for the help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If you got the bushing out, you almost have the switch off. I think a clip is all that holds it on. You can buy them at any parts house, don't have to buy Ford.
  • Noticed smoke, then sparking which turned out to be wiring (green w/red strip) burning along steering column. Took dash panels out and found wiring was to switch on pedal. After reading postings here relative frequency of failure of this switch ... I will pick up new one in the morning.... I already cut out and replaced the arching section of wiring.... ABS light flashing and of course the fuse controlling tail/brake lights blew when the wires arched. Can get the tail lights to work with switch disconnected... blows fuse when connected and activated. Anybody else seen this ? Why would faulty switch cause wiring to burn/short out? <img src="
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The power to the brake switch is hot all the time. And I think that green with red wire is the 'hot' wire. With ignition off, key out, you can step on brake and get brake lights.

    Are you saying you pulled the connecter off the switch, then jumped these connectors and the fuse blew? If so, then the switch is not the problem. You have a short to ground somewhere between the switch and the brake lights.

    Ok, I read your note again. It looks like you got power to the wire coming out of the switch (Light Green?) and the brake lights came on. And putting the connectors back on the switch, the fuse blew. This does seem like the switch is bad, bad, bad. In fact it seems to be shorting directly to ground. I would have hoped the fuse would have blown and not smoked the wire, but maybe someone put a larger fuse in there than specified.

    Of the 3 switches that failed on my 94, none of them did this. The just quit making good contact when the brake pedal was pushed. This is also scary in cruise control, because when the switch/brake lights don't work, the cruise is not dis-connected when you push on the brake.... This is usually how I would find out the switch was not working. And, the one time the county deputy followed me into my driveway to tell me I didn't have any brakes light.
  • Since I bought the vehicle used, actually 94 B3000 Mazda, not sure of morons that have been under the dash.... Looked to me that the wire may have been stripped or just worn from rubbing something ... causing short and the burning wire. The fuse was correct and eventually blew during the original smoke/sparking/lights out scene (dash, stop, tail and flashing ABS indicator). I 'trouble shot" the situation by first isolating the burnt wire.. got all lights except brake light (and ABS flashing). Then installed new wires to switch....still good ... activating the switch blew the fuse... :cry: Wife on way home with new switch... Hopefully installing will get us back in operation... Thanks for insight.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yea, since that wire is hot all the time, that moron might have stripped off some insulation to power something. And when he took it out, didn't bother to put any tape on it.

    Of course, they strip the wire coming out of the switch to power electric trailer brakes. This, and more, was done on my used 94.

    Good luck. Electricical problems are tough.
  • Well does not seem that the switch was the issue... Took it to a mechanic after the new switch tripped fuse as soon as it was plugged in... Mechanic suggested new bulbs... still no stop lights ... Got everything except stop function and connection to stop switch now working..... Tomorrow we plan to attempt to eliminate the use of the light green wire (with red stripe) in harness and connect the new switch in line somewhere at firewall. Will share progress. :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is it still blowing fuses?

    If so, you have a short somewhere between the switch and the rear lights.

    If it's not blowing fuses, then something you have done 'fixed' this.

    I would look closely at the rear lights for corrisson, etc. Look for cutting into the wiring back there to drive trailer lights.

    If I remember right, you drop the tailgate to get to the screws that hold the rear light lens.
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