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Ford Ranger Brake Problems

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Comments

  • At 50 stepping on brakes hard start to stop, then they turn spongie.Any help will be app.

    ty don
  • Hey buster, I have an '02 and experienced the same problem. Right before coming to a complete stop it felt like the pedal started jumping up & down. The truck stopped ok, but that was a bit un-nerving. Otherwise the brakes worked fine. While I was working, the 'Boss Lady' took it to the 'friendly neighborhood Ford Dealer' and had it analyzed. They presented her with a printout of the diagnosis, which pointed an accusing finger at the right front sensor, which is mounted in the hub. Of course the sensor costs as much as, or more than the whole assembly, so you know what I did. I would say to go ahead and keep drivivg it for a month or two, then go on Amazon and look up the Actron ABS Scanner and order one. It's, by far, the best price I could find. The only bad point is that it cannot cancel the code or codes it reads. I'm told it takes a much more elaborate unit to do that, such as what a dealer, or major brake shop would have. Rangers seem to be prone to ABS problems, so having your own ABS scanner can possibly save you considerable moolah. Best of luck on this weird little glitch.
  • Hi everyone. Just a minor little glitch here. When I'm out cruising a freeway and activate the cruise control, everything is fine until I start down a long gradual grade, then the engine starts bucking and jerking. A good friend of mine who is also older than dirt, like me, and a life long mechanic, (turned wrenches for Holman & Moody many moons ago) said 'vacuum leak' . I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and cured it. BTW, mine is a 2002, Std. Trans. And shifts like a 6 Spd. Spicer, in a dump truck. :confuse:
  • I forgot to ask, does anyone know what ABS code C1939 is, and where is this "Brake Press Sw Circuit?
  • Just a piece of advice. Don't drive through any deep puddles with HOT brakes, as this can cause the rotors to warp. You didn't mention the kind of use you put your truck through, or the model year. I have an '02 and my brakes work just fine, except for a couple of ABS alerts. Mine is 4X4, 4.0L, w/std. trans. I can see my rotors through those alloy wheels, and they look almost new. Almost 100K miles and runs like a clock. (Knock on wood!)
    Rangers got to be treated like one of your kids. Lots of TLC!
  • try having your abs checked out its probly that
  • We purchased a 93 ranger for our 17 year old son. We have replaced the evrything on the brakes and the master cylinder but he continues to have a problem with the rear brakes locking up on him. Any ideas what we can check now? We want it to be safe for him to drive.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I had a 1994 Ranger. The rear drum brakes on most Rangers are very bad to 'grab'. I bet this is what you are calling 'locking up'.

    After the truck has set a while, like overnight, when the brakes are applied the first time, the rear brakes will 'grab'. A lot. If this is what you are talking about - as I said, Rangers have this problem. And I have read of a lot of things that have been done, including as you did with a lot of parts replacement - and little changed.

    I think the problem is the metal the drum itself is made of. It probably gets a coating of rust in just a few hours. It will 'grab' worse if the weather is rainy or just damp. My truck was kept in a garage, and it made no difference, the first stop of the morning, the rear brakes grabbed.

    My solution: As you first drive away, just put a little gentle pressure on the brake, as the truck is moving. You don't have to do much, or for very far. All you need to do is have the brakes remove the coating of rust, and this will do it. The brakes will not grab when this is done.
  • My 2003 ranger xlt is doing the same thing as well. Does your ABS light on the dash come on when this happens? I have replaced all the front end brake parts and hubs.
  • I took my 2003 Ranger XLT 3.0L, auto, to a brake shop last week. They replaced the rotor and pads. The first time I stopped, from about 40 mph, the brakes chattered until it got down to under about 15 mph. I took it back the next day and they again replaced the rotor and repacked wheel bearings. No change, still chatter. They have had it now for three days trying to figure out what the problem is. They replaced the rotor three times pads twice. Machined the new rotor. Still chatters. Truck has 105k miles and this is second brake job by the same shop, no problems before.
  • Got it fixed. They finally looked at the rear brakes and found that the drums were out of round. Machined them and now all is OK. Originally they had only cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes so did not find the out of round condition. And they did not charge for machining the drums and apologized for the delay.
  • I need help badly, i cant lose anymore work. Here is the deal, the previous owner didnt take very good care of this truck, the rear brakes kinda fell apart and dug their way into the drum, took me forever to get the drum off. In the process all the hardware kinda came out and i didnt see excactly how it was in there. I need to find a picture or detailed intruction on how to put the brake drum back together again

    This is for a 1990 Ford Ranger 4x4, the drivers rear side. I really need some help please so i can get to work tomarrow. Thanks
  • About 3/4 of the time when I go to stop, the pedal will depress another inch or so and the Ranger will coast another 1/2 truck length. Doesn't do it every time, but one has to be aware that it will probably coast another 1/2 length. Could it be one of the wheel sensors kicking in for anti-braking? Any suggestions?
  • i am haven the same prob have replaced the front pads rear breaks master cyld and booster ! still samething
  • I have a 2001 Ranger With the Big six and 15In Wheels. Went to replace pads and found rotors needed replacement also. I found a small amount of fluid on the line so
    I traced it up to the engine compartment.
    When I opened the hood I found an empty Master cylinder and break fluid everywhere. Was not that way a week ago. I did find that the cap had been put on crooked and was not sealed; is it possible all that fluid came from the top cap? or should I keep looking for another source?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I guessing you, or someone, did replace the brake pads. Doing this, you had to push the brake pistons back into the calipers. This forced brake fluid back through the system. It had to go somewhere. So it overflowed the master cylinder. You probably do not have a leak, just this overflow.

    You should have pulled some or most of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder before you started. And when finished, check to see if you needed to add some fluid back.
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