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Ford Ranger Brake Problems



  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    With the little info you've given, I'm guessing the vacumn booster is bad.
  • dkarandkaran Posts: 2
    I have two problems with the brakes on my 2001 ranger; and I believe they may be related.
    Problem #1: The ABS seems to engage for no apparent reason when coming to a stop on dry payment (etal) and at very slow speed (almost stopped). I have replaced the rear ABS sensor -no improvement.
    Problem #2: The front pads do not seem to exert enough force to clean the rotors. I have 86k miles and have replaced the rotors twice and had them resurfaced once. This applies to both front rotors. When I check them after only about 5k miles of use the pad contact surface is very rusted/corroded and shows only about .5" to 1" of contact use.
  • ron4400ron4400 Posts: 4
    that's what i'm on here to try and find out. my 03 4x4 had brake work done and now the abs kicks in only at almost dead stop on dry pavement. do these have front and rear sensors?
  • dkarandkaran Posts: 2
    Ron, The answer is YES. The rear sensor is located atop the differential. It inexpensive and easy to replace (one fastener retains it to the housing). I recently purchased a Ford service manual and learned that there are two sensors in the front axle also. They are located inside of the spindle housings. The rotor shield has to be removed to access them. I will confrm that info in the next few days. I understand they are a lot more expensive than the rear.
  • tom328tom328 Posts: 1
    Hey fellas, I figured I would give this a try, I have a 03 Ranger Edge 4.0. I had some pulsating brakes. So I replaced both front rotors, hubs, bearings, seals, and brake pads. Good news is no pulsing coming downhill at high speed, bad news is at low speed with light pedal pressure sometimes I am hearing dragging and what feels like slight slippage. I dont know if this is due to the new rotor and it will stop. But it has me a little stumped. I did not brake any lines so there was no line bleeding necessary, and I have not taken my truck in for electrical analysis, there has been no ABS light. All help appreciated. Thanks.
  • brickybricky Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    brake light switch won't trigger brake lights. When I move the switch a little on brake pedal it does. Would it need new switch that will fit tighter or Am i wasting time? Ford Ranger
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    edited August 2011
    By a new brake light switch.

    My 1994 Ranger went thru about 3 or 4 in 10 years.

    Also, on my 94 when the switch was bad it made the cruise control dangerous. Without the brake switch throwing a signel, the cruise stayed engaged. Had to shut it off to stop it.
  • I have a 2006 ranger 4x4 and the brakes started having a problem, sometimes it seems like there isn't enough brake pressure or grab and other times it seems like there is too much grab. We have replaced the calipers, rotors, pads and brake booster and bled the brake lines, but the problem persists. Can anyone help?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Take it back, if a shop did all this work. They need to make it right. Bad brakes are dangerous to you and others.
  • At 50 stepping on brakes hard start to stop, then they turn spongie.Any help will be app.

    ty don
  • Hey buster, I have an '02 and experienced the same problem. Right before coming to a complete stop it felt like the pedal started jumping up & down. The truck stopped ok, but that was a bit un-nerving. Otherwise the brakes worked fine. While I was working, the 'Boss Lady' took it to the 'friendly neighborhood Ford Dealer' and had it analyzed. They presented her with a printout of the diagnosis, which pointed an accusing finger at the right front sensor, which is mounted in the hub. Of course the sensor costs as much as, or more than the whole assembly, so you know what I did. I would say to go ahead and keep drivivg it for a month or two, then go on Amazon and look up the Actron ABS Scanner and order one. It's, by far, the best price I could find. The only bad point is that it cannot cancel the code or codes it reads. I'm told it takes a much more elaborate unit to do that, such as what a dealer, or major brake shop would have. Rangers seem to be prone to ABS problems, so having your own ABS scanner can possibly save you considerable moolah. Best of luck on this weird little glitch.
  • Hi everyone. Just a minor little glitch here. When I'm out cruising a freeway and activate the cruise control, everything is fine until I start down a long gradual grade, then the engine starts bucking and jerking. A good friend of mine who is also older than dirt, like me, and a life long mechanic, (turned wrenches for Holman & Moody many moons ago) said 'vacuum leak' . I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and cured it. BTW, mine is a 2002, Std. Trans. And shifts like a 6 Spd. Spicer, in a dump truck. :confuse:
  • I forgot to ask, does anyone know what ABS code C1939 is, and where is this "Brake Press Sw Circuit?
  • Just a piece of advice. Don't drive through any deep puddles with HOT brakes, as this can cause the rotors to warp. You didn't mention the kind of use you put your truck through, or the model year. I have an '02 and my brakes work just fine, except for a couple of ABS alerts. Mine is 4X4, 4.0L, w/std. trans. I can see my rotors through those alloy wheels, and they look almost new. Almost 100K miles and runs like a clock. (Knock on wood!)
    Rangers got to be treated like one of your kids. Lots of TLC!
  • try having your abs checked out its probly that
  • We purchased a 93 ranger for our 17 year old son. We have replaced the evrything on the brakes and the master cylinder but he continues to have a problem with the rear brakes locking up on him. Any ideas what we can check now? We want it to be safe for him to drive.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I had a 1994 Ranger. The rear drum brakes on most Rangers are very bad to 'grab'. I bet this is what you are calling 'locking up'.

    After the truck has set a while, like overnight, when the brakes are applied the first time, the rear brakes will 'grab'. A lot. If this is what you are talking about - as I said, Rangers have this problem. And I have read of a lot of things that have been done, including as you did with a lot of parts replacement - and little changed.

    I think the problem is the metal the drum itself is made of. It probably gets a coating of rust in just a few hours. It will 'grab' worse if the weather is rainy or just damp. My truck was kept in a garage, and it made no difference, the first stop of the morning, the rear brakes grabbed.

    My solution: As you first drive away, just put a little gentle pressure on the brake, as the truck is moving. You don't have to do much, or for very far. All you need to do is have the brakes remove the coating of rust, and this will do it. The brakes will not grab when this is done.
  • My 2003 ranger xlt is doing the same thing as well. Does your ABS light on the dash come on when this happens? I have replaced all the front end brake parts and hubs.
  • I took my 2003 Ranger XLT 3.0L, auto, to a brake shop last week. They replaced the rotor and pads. The first time I stopped, from about 40 mph, the brakes chattered until it got down to under about 15 mph. I took it back the next day and they again replaced the rotor and repacked wheel bearings. No change, still chatter. They have had it now for three days trying to figure out what the problem is. They replaced the rotor three times pads twice. Machined the new rotor. Still chatters. Truck has 105k miles and this is second brake job by the same shop, no problems before.
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