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Ford F-Series Braking Questions



  • '92, F350, dually, 141,000. Has belt driven type assist.

    I know that a slight hiss when pressing brake is normal and has to do with something called a brake assist.

    Prior to my last brake job at the Ford dealer, the hiss was short in duration, and when depressing the brake pedal, the normal travel distance before braking was approximately 2".

    After last brake job at the dealer (master cyclinder, calipers, drums/discs resurface, and adjust rea brake regulators), the hiss sound was much longer in duration, and the pedal travel increased to 4 1/2" (i.e. nearly to the floor starting from 6"). Ford has maintained nothing wrong. Wrong - it has been downright scary to have to press the brake pedal that far. (They system has been bled numerous times with no change - even immediately after bleeding.)

    I have since replace the MC with a MC with a larger (bore?). The brake pedal travel is now 3" (getting closer to the way it was before).

    Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance?

    Thanks guys.
    Female needs help !!
  • If the sensor in the differential is bad, just replace it. It's not expensive nor is it difficult to replace. Its held in with one 10mm bolt located on top of the differential above the drive shaft area. When your ABS light is on, it just means that your onboard computer has dedected a problem and disabled the ABS only. You still have reagular power brakes. Technically, I guess it is a safety issue, but not much of one.
  • Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance? Yes & Yes

    The longer hissing sound is caused by the hydralic assist to have to either work harder or longer to push on the Master cylinder to pressurise the brake system.

    Lets assume for the moment that there is no new problem with the assist part of the system. You didn't have this problem until the brakes were done. Right? This symptom is telling me that there is a lack of restriction in the hydrallic brake lines somewhere, such as ; incorrect brake calipers or incorrect rear wheel cylinders(for regular power brakes lets say) or in some cases there is an ajustment rod with a backwards threaded bolt coming out of the assist,(not all models). This adjustment is critical for proper braking. Very unlikly this rod if your truck has it is causing this symptom. If I had to take a guess without inspecting the brakes on this vehicle, my money is on incorrect calipers or wheel cylinders. Here is my explanation that would have to be researched and inspected on your truck. Sometimes calipers and wheel cylinders for a regular power brake system and a hydralic assist look the same, but the chambers or cavities inside them are different sizes. This means they require different amounts of hydralic pressure from the master cylinder. You need a very experienced technician to check this for you. And yes, the Dealer does make mistakes. I fix one of their screw ups at least once a month. Good luck!
  • can anyone tell me the order you need to bleed the brakes after changing pads.i know it has to be done in a specific order but i dont know it. i have a 2004 f-150. help would be greatly appreciated
  • I just bought an Actron CP9180 reader. On the Diagnostic Monitor Tests, I get
    Test $26 Low
    Test $2a Low
    Test $2b Low
    Test $56 High
    This on a Ford E-150, 4.2
    I tried to find what monitor tests check, but I cannot decifer these codes.
    Can someone point me in the right dirrection.
    I have a rough running engine that is driving me nuts. All of the OBD codes say ok.
  • My Dad is getting screwed by ford...

    2005 Ford F150 (nov purchase date)
    one owner only
    it has 25000 kms

    Took it to the ford dealership to have the brakes done. (sticking- ended up being rust)

    HOWEVER... because of the low mileage, they said that we misused the vehicle by letting it "sit". So the dealership said the warranty was void and we paid the repair on a credit card, they would not release the vehicle to us otherwise. This truck is driven at least twice a week (except for a one month period when Dad was in hospital). This truck has never been off road or on a gravel road for that matter. the brakes should not have rust.

    I've read and re-read the warranty manual. nowhere is it mentioned that lack of use equals missuse.... there are no aftermarket parts, and we follow the maintenance schedule.

    I suspect the dealership didn't even call ford warranty.

    How do i get them to honor the warranty... (I wanted to call ford warranty, but they apparently only "talk shop" with dealers, not owners...)
  • twocartwocar Posts: 95
    How difficult is it to replace the driver-side front abs sensor on an '04 f-150, 4x4? Great detail would be appreciated.
  • I believe I have the same problem with my 2003. If you find out how to change and how difficult it is please let me know. Thanks
  • One evening a box on the drivers side under the hood started buzzing. It would not stop until I unplugged it. After that the ABS light has stayed on. I have tried plugging it back in thinking that it might "reset " or something but it immediatly starts buzzing again. I have just drove it like that for months but it would be nice to have my baby running right. Any suggestions?
  • ragarmragarm Posts: 1
    I just got my 2000 F-150 (103,000 miles) out of the shop.

    Last night the ABS light went on and a humming started from under the hood. Even with the engine off, the humming continued.

    I found out today my ABS sensor was shorted. The mechanic took out a fuse so my battery wouldn't die (I disconnected the battery last night to avoid this). The ABS is not functional, but the brakes still work. There is little safety issue other than some tire slippage in wet conditions.

    The part is coming in tomorrow. Rather pricey. $620 w/labor to fix the ABS.
  • jaw101jaw101 Posts: 1
    ABS Light is on cannot get any codes from computer. The rear brakes lock up and shutters, could it be the control module for the brakes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • geojandgeojand Posts: 1
    Had same trouble but did not drive or with the noise because I pulled the fuse in the fuse box under hood. Not the one under dash. see your manual for which one. Light will stay on noise will stop and of course you won't have ABS system. Don't like it anyway.
  • bassman45bassman45 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know where the ABS sensor is? I've been told that it's over the rear differential, and alternatively it's behind the right front disc rotor. I prefer to believe that it's behind the wheel disc rotor. Does anyone know for sure? I haven't taken the tire off to look closely, as I probably wouldn't recognize the sensor even I saw it. Anyone have any experience with this?
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Posts: 161
    Its on the top of the differential on the yoke or drive shaft side. Here is a hint. Its the only thing that has a wire coming from it. Its held in by one 10mm bolt. If you have ABS front and rear then you will also have sensors on each front wheel also on the back side of the stearing knuckle below the brake calipers.
  • 1995 Ford F250 diesel has brake problem, sometimes brakes work OK, sometimes the pedal is hard as a rock and goes all the way to the floor before brakes work, sometimes a slight delay and then brakes work. Very scary not knowing what will happen when I touch brake pedal. 2 mechs recommend replacing brake booster, vacuum pump, and master cylinder, (not in that order). Very expensive to start changing these.
  • The left disc brake is pulsating when I try to stop. I removed the fuse that controls this ABS braking system. A indicator light on the dash comes on indicating that the system is not powered up.
    The pulsating problem is resolved but I don't have a ABS system. Is this a sensor problem on that left front brake?
    How hard is it to replace the brake sensor?
  • petecalpetecal Posts: 23
    edited October 2010
    My ABS light is on. I think it is a loose connection at the ABS module. (Long story I won't bore you with).

    It seems the ABS module is attached below the Hydraulic Control Unit and very hard to get to. I am sure I have to move the HCU but it has a few hydraulic tubes connected to it and I can't remove those (cost for dealer to bleed the system) nor do I want to break one.

    Does anybody know if things can be loosened up enough to get at the ABS module without damaging the HCU connections?

    Thanks In Advance,
  • I am working on a freind truck that has the same peoblem. It does the same thing. There is something inside the frame rails under the mastercylinder that the brake lines go to. It says remanufactured and there is a harness going to it It has no power going to it with brakes on or off. It also looks like it has a small motor conected to it like a small pump solenoid. I'm trying to find out what it is and if it has anything to do with the problem. Maybe it can help you. I'm open for any info on this problem.
  • petecalpetecal Posts: 23
    That is the ABS unit. There is a harness, yes, but there is also a power connector.

    My problems got worse. A full description and my soluthon is at:

    If the link does not survive the posting process, go to and search the forums for postings by petec (that's me).
  • petecalpetecal Posts: 23
    My problems got worse. A full description and my soluthon is at:

    If the link does not survive the posting process, go to and search the forums for postings by petec (that's me).

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