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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Climate Control

Has anybody else experienced air flowing through your vents, similar to if the fan was on low, when you have the knob on OFF. ??? any suggestions?
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Comments

  • Hi The Big Al !!!

    (Now that they changed/ closed the general forum topic to read only ( a blunder in my opinion) - I find it hard to want to spend the time to jump through multiple discussions and read reply ... too bad. But good to find a post from you !! )

    re: Fan - I think I remember reading that due to CO concerns the fan will never shut off - in case someone falls asleep in the vehicle - and/or the tail pipe get blocked (i.e., parked in snow). So I think this might be "normal".
    The pain is that when you leave the flow path knob set for "Floor" - it gets hot air - especially irritating in the summer.
    What I do is change the flow know to top vent set to Cold (not AC)- it seems to fix the issue. Air still comes out - but it's not hot and it's at least Not bothersome ...
  • yes it comes out all my vents in OFF< not just the floor vents.
  • hi i have a 1995 chevy s10 has 150.000 miles and we can't get any heat, the fan works great! this is my sons truck and we are in the north east so were trying to get it to work before it really gets cold. any help or ideas would be appreciated
  • I have 1991 GMC Sonoma. The blower is not working. I have already replaced the blower motor. Anyone know where the blower relay is???
  • s1089s1089 Posts: 3
    kinda sounds like my truck...only mine blew smoke outa it lol but it kinda sounds like a heater core to me....
  • I have a '98 Sonoma and am having heater problems. The heater only blows cold air. I have replaced the thermostat and the switches, but it still only blows cold air. The coolant level is good and the core isn't leaking. What can I do? Any suggestions?
  • Hi,

    When the truck is well warm - shut it down, open the hood - and see if you can feel if the heater hoses going to/from the heater core are BOTH hot ?? If only one is - Check to see if you have a vacuum run shut off in one of the lines - and see if it's open allowing flow... Could be a bad valve - or - vacuum not getting to the the valve (i.e. cracked vacuum hose ??)

    Otherwise - it's possible that the core is plugged - or perhaps even air bound ???

    Just a couple thoughts ...
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    I also have a heater problem. I have coolant smell in the cab.
    I am trying to replace the heater core in my 2000 S-Blazer. I got the dash out and the heater/ventilation unit loose except for what appear to be 2 bolts coming through from the engine side of the firewall at the bottom. I am working from a Haynes manual, but there is no mention of these bolts. If I am right, the only recourse is to depressurize the A/C system & remove the evaporator to get to these 2 bolts. Seems ridiculous to have to do this to replace a heater core.

    Looking for any help or advice that might be out there.

    Thanks
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    I am trying to replace the heater core in my 2000 S-Blazer. I got the dash out and the heater/ventilation unit loose except for what appear to be 2 bolts coming through from the engine side of the firewall at the bottom. I am working from a Haynes manual, but there is no mention of these bolts. If I am right, the only recourse is to depressurize the A/C system & remove the evaporator to get to these 2 bolts. Seems ridiculous to have to do this to replace a heater core.

    Looking for any help or advice that might be out there.

    Thanks
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    Answering my own question. . . .

    Finally determined that you have to go in through the right wheel well -- remove the wheel and wheel well liner (meaning you have to pull the battery, powertrain ECM, and the coolant reservoir. Once all that is out of the way, you can get to the 2 studs coming through the firewall, remove the nuts, and proceed.
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    Answering my own question. . . .

    Finally determined that you have to go in through the right wheel well -- remove the wheel and wheel well liner (meaning you have to pull the battery, powertrain ECM, and the coolant reservoir. Once all that is out of the way, you can get to the 2 studs coming through the firewall, remove the nuts, and proceed.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I guess the next question is, are your going to replace the two nuts?
  • steel24steel24 Posts: 2
    Thanks. I'm working on replacing my heater core for my 99 s-10. Haynes doesn't mention those two bolts, among other things. I was hoping there would be an easier way to get to those bolts. Your post confirmed what I was dreading. But good to know anyway.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    I know I am coming in on the end of this thing, the GM SI states remove the passenger fender to replace heater core.
    There is a mention of studs to remove, never did the job so not sure what they are talking about.
    The GM SI for heater core replace is long and drawn out, like the job I guess.
  • steel24steel24 Posts: 2
    SI ? And where do you get it?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    GM Service Instructions. Back when they had generic user name a P/W I got on the site for 3 months, some dude put it on line. Then they caught up with me and kicked me off.
    In the mean time I downloaded MB's of files for my 2 vehicles.
    Anyone can get on their SI site, but you need to pay with credit card. It used to be day, month and year.
    Go here, no WWW. http://service.gm.com
  • Chuk,

    I have a 2000 Jimmy and I have to replace the heater core in it real soon. Thank you for posting this information about removing the wheel well liner. Did you have o discharge the a/c system? Are there any other tips you can offer before I start?

    Thanks again,

    Luke
  • darcy2darcy2 Posts: 2
    trying to improve cooling
    using refill ez chill auto air conditioning r-134a refrigerant plus oil
    could you please tell me were or what line to attach to fill it thanks
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    Put in just plain 134a, the oil in the cans may not be compatible with your system. If you contaminate your A/C it will cost more then $1000 to fix.
  • I searched and searched and could not find an answer to this.

    Where is the a/c condensation drain hose on a 1998 GMC extended cab Sonoma? I am getting water in the cab on the passenger side, coming down from the firewall when the a/c is running and after it is shut off. I have looked under the truck as best as I can and cannot find the drain hose. Any help to put me in the general area would be appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    Well on my 99, look under the truck passenger side. It is where the firewall and HVAC unit come together at the bottom. Is a plastic tube about 2 1/2 inches long horizontal pointing forward. It is just aft of the ignition coils.
  • WARNING
    This Applies to all owners looking at coolant level.

    Stop looking in Coolant over flow tank for confirmed level of engine coolant.
    You'll get faked out every time.

    You need to only look in radiator.

    First sign of no heat is low coolant.
    Second is plugged heater core.
    Be careful and gentle when flushing out core to not over do it with outside pressure source.

    You could force a weak heater core to leak all inside vehicle.

    If you applied radiator stop leak in the past, then take a minor guess where all that crap is now.

    If you have to use these products, then take out the heater core from the process by removing the heater hoses from the engine.
  • hi all new to the site,i have a 2000 s-10 with 110,000mls. the vent control wont switch between defost and floor it stays on panel. any ideas what could be the problem?
    thanks....
  • Engine will not heat up over 150 degrees. I changed the thermastat and blocked the radiater but still will not heat up.Could it be a blocked heater core?
  • uh yes im having problems with my heater, when i turn it on i get water that runs down on to the carpet out of the bottem of the dash. some one told me that it is a heater coil, if it is how do you take the dash off a 97 s10 to get to it ? need help despret!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    You'll need a 1/4 in drive set, Phillips and flat screwdriver, drop-light, and patients. Last time I removed and replaced the dash on my 97 I only had three screws left over. That's a personal best for me. Good luck :)
  • chukchuk Posts: 10
    When I did my 2000 Blazer, I followed the Haynes manual. It wasn't perfect, but it had 90% of what I had to do. The dash, while somewhat intimidating, wasn't that bad. For me there was a piece under the dash that had to come out in order to get the heater core out. It took me hours to finally find the 2 studs that were poking through the firewall. I had to remove the right front tire and go in through the wheel well to get to them. If I had had good direction this would have been minor, but as I said, I lost hours just trying to locate these on the engine side of the firewall.

    Good luck
  • mboesmboes Posts: 1
    I have a 99 S10 with the same problem. Did you ever get a solution?

    Thanks
  • danpstewdanpstew Posts: 2
    when the control is to cool, there is warm air coming out of the floor vent, if the a/c is on max its cool coming out of the dash, not cold. whats to be checked? please advise.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    The first part is normal for the S-10, just put on the dash vents. With the A/C running, feel the large line at the compressor, is it cold.
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