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Hyundai Elantra Problems 2001-2006



  • My 2004 Elantra GT has 110,000 miles. I am the orginal owner and have kept well maintained. All of a sudden my mpg dropped 8-10 mpg. No engine light has come on, the engine runs smooth. I just replaced the plugs and wires to see if that would help, no change.
    Any ideas on where I should look or do ?
    Thank you
  • Hello Backy

    I would have thought the winter blend had switched weeks ago--I did give it some consideration. My mpg was 32-33 hwy, 29-30 stop and go, now 26 hwy -22 combined. To if if it was the gas, i have filled up at three different stations and have noticed no difference. I have replaced some of my senors, back when my car was in the 50-70,000 mile range. I guess it strange wishing the check engine light would go on !
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,631
    If you were able to get 29-30 mpg in stop-and-go driving in the Elantra, that is indeed remarkable!

    For comparison, before winter set in I could easily get 28-32 mpg in around-town driving in my '04 GT AT (EPA 24/32), with the variable being how much urban freeway driving I did. Now that winter is here (lately temps hovering at either side of 0 F), I am struggling to reach 23 mpg overall in around-town driving. I drive mostly short distances (<10 miles one way), and have not adjusted air pressure on the tires since temps were in the 40s (when I set it at 35). So the air pressure is 4-5 ppi lower than earlier this winter, the car is taking longer to warm up, it has more idling time (I let it warm up for a few minutes the other day when it was -10 F :blush: ), there's the winter gas, and the car is pushing colder, denser air (although I have no idea how much impact that has on FE).

    You still might want to take your car in for a look-see at its next service interval, in case there's a problem.
  • Good morning Backy,

    That is an excellent Idea, I am schedule for my tire rotation. I will bump up the psi. I realize the car is older and the winter weather effects performance, but I did not experience this sudden change the past three years. I appreciate your responses.
  • sbirdsbird Posts: 1
    I am told that I need to replace the engine of my 2003 elantra due to damage from overheating last week. The car spent the night in Flagstaff, AZ where it dropped to 3 degrees F. The next day I drove back to Tucson. 60 miles out I saw steam and the heat guage was in the red zone. After pulling over and cooling down, there was no chance of restarting. A mechanic predicted that the head gasket had blown and greater damage to valves etc. was probably done. Any suggestions about sources of new/used engines, service agents, warranties and such. I am kind of new at this and want to find the best value. Thanks.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    If the car was on the road less than 5 years and has less than 60,000 miles on it, you may be able to get the engine replaced under warranty (providing there was no neglect and maintenance was up to date). If you're the orginal owner and have less than 100,000 miles, you *might* even be able to get the engine replaced under the powertrain warranty (although that is more doubtful).

    If I were in your situation and had to pay for it myself, I would try to locate a fairly low mileage salvage yard engine (or have the mechanic do the same). If you have to pay for a brand new engine, you may be better buying a whole new car by the time you're done.
  • I have a 2003 Elantra GLS 5M with about 58K miles. At about 50 mph on even a slight grade the normal under load engine noise begins to drone slightly louder and softer at about a 1 second rate. On the level or downhill it doesn't happen. It seems as if it has to be under load to happen. Something in the drive train? Front bearings? The slight increase in engine noise under load is normal - the droning is something new.
  • jake9364jake9364 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Lat year when I bought it, it had 21,000 miles on it, now it has 33,500. Well when I first got after I drove it for a while the right rear would make a clunking noise, only does this when car is stopped. Took to dealer and he said he heard it also. They gave me a loaner and kept the car for a week. Them after that they said they could not find the problem! They said just drive it and when whatever is causing the noise breaks, we will fix it…pretty incredible huh!

    I put new brakes on all the way around (was making noise before brake job).

    Some people have suggested that there is a bad bushing in the rear? Anybody have any ideas….Thanks….I want to print out the answers and take them with me to dealer….
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,631
    So the dealer kept your car for a week, gave you a loaner, and tried fo find the problem but couldn't. Then they said (hopefully in wirting?) that when it's clear what the problem is, they will fix it. I agree, that is pretty incredible, but excellent, customer service by your dealer.

    It could be a bushing, hard to say. I had a rear bushing problem on my 626, and it made a clunking noise. The dealer mis-diagnosed the problem, said the car needed new struts etc. I took it to another mechanic, who properly diagnosed the problem and the fix only cost about $120 including labor.
  • ras4151ras4151 Posts: 11
    I have a 2004 Elantra GT with 34000 miles. The headlight covers have gotten a film over them. I have seen it on other Elantras. Anyone have an idea what I can do, besides replacement, to clear them.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,631
    Since your car is still under warranty, you might see if the dealer will replace them or "repair" them under warranty.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    If they won't do anything about the headlight lenses, go to an autoparts store and buy some lens cleaner. There is a special cleaner just for this kind of thing.

    If you want to just try something cheap, try using some toothpaste on a soft cloth. The very mild abrasive should clean them up good (or so I've heard).
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    I would guess the clunking in the rear is either a sway bar end link or sway bar bushing. If you can get under the car (I can slide under the back end of it without even raising it with jacks), you will see a bar that runs across the car between the struts. It will be attached to the struts with end links (the are probably white plastic) and the bar is anchored to the body with two brackets with bushings. Those bushings are the most likely culprits.

    If you need to jack up your car to get under there, jack up both sides evenly if you're going to mess around with the sway bar. As long as the right and left rear tires are loaded the same (either both on the ground, or both hanging in the air and the car up on jack stands), there is no load on the bar. But if you jack up one corner and leave the tire on the other side on the ground, the sway bar will have a lot of force in it. It's not at all dangerous as long as the two back wheels are evenly supported (or both unloaded altogether).

    If you jack up the car and remove the tires, this is what it would look like:

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,631
    This is with no change in weather, driving habits/patterns, or gas formulation (i.e. winter gas blend), right? What was your mpg before, and what is it now? And what mix of city/highway driving do you do?
  • My daughters 2006 Elantra hatchback has had the master cylinder replaced twice since the first of the year. The third time I brought it in I was told there was air in the ABS system and they bled the system and said it was repaired. That was 2 weeks ago. Tonight the brake pedal went all the way to the floor again. Any ideas or suggestions as to the real problem and how I can get it fixed. It is still under warranty with only 40,000 miles.

  • I had the same condition on a Japanese car about 3 yrs ago. No hydraulic leaks. I did replace the brake master cylinder but did not fix the problem. The problem was the ABS unit called the HECU (hydraulic & electronic control unit) of the Antilock Braking System. One of the normally closed valve on the HECU was stuck open. Was ok after replacement of the HECU.
  • My wife's '01 experienced the same issue with left side (right previously replaced due to an accident). I buffed it out with a buffing wheel on my hand held drill and different polishing rouges. Same thing I have do to to my '95 Dodge Neon about every three years.
  • My daughters 2005 elantra keeps having a issue with fuel. Everytime you fill the car up it stalls out for the first 50 or so miles. I have taken it to the dealer but they say there is nothing wrong. I thought at first that she had got bad gas and tried gas treatment. But it has happened numerous times and she has got gas at different locations. Any help would be great
  • You might take the car to Autozone and have them scan the computer for free, for trouble codes. If nothing shows up, I guess I'd try this---fill the car up then take it in and have a shop test the fuel pressure in the fuel rail and see if the reading (in PSI) is either too high or too low. This would indicate a possible fault in fuel delivery, such as fuel pump or better yet fuel pressure regulator.

    I'm also thinking of some issue perhaps with the evaporative emissions system during fill up but I'm a bit lost on making the connection to the symptoms described. Perhaps someone here could carry this train of thought a bit further than I can.
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