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Hyundai Elantra Problems 2001-2006

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Comments

  • Here are the things I'd do - check Consumer Reports and see what the reliability looks like - also do a CarFax on it. Also, if you've got the receipts of the previous owner - you may have enough info available (phone book lookup?) to contact them. Try calling and stating who you are and why you're calling and ask them what they think of the car and if it's worth buying (particularly for the price). They've sold it - no reason to give you a song and dance about it now...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,737
    The points about the brakes and rotors being replaced 3 times in one year, the stalling, and the check engine light would make me pass on this car.

    The model itself has been pretty reliable (I owned a '01 Elantra for many years, my sister still owns it and it's been reliable). But I don't like unresolved check engine lights, even though it could be a minor thing like a sensor.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    I agree with Backy. You might want to pass on this particular Elantra. But please dont be dissuaded from all 01 (and newer) Elantras based on that experience alone. My wife has an '01 GLS with 71K miles and we've had very few problems. The worst was the rear defrost switch failed & was replaced under warranty. No powertrain issues.
  • I live in NYC and would like to know where do you Hyandai members purchase used cars, I have read good prices on last models with low mileages. My girlfriend is looking and I want to be ablet o give her some directions and advice. She is willing to do some travelling for an good/excellent buys. thanks again
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,737
    Although I have purchased used cars from private parties, my last six used cars over the past four years have been from dealers (all but one a new-car dealer). I find cars from new car dealers are in generally excellent condition, e.g. have been reconditioned to look new or near-new. More importantly, dealers offer warranties. My 2007 T&C has a lifetime powertrain warranty (no, not from Chrysler and not from the dealer, but from a large insurance company--the dealer includes this warranty for "free" on all of their used cars with less than 100k miles). My last two used cars, a 2005 Jetta (totaled last April) and a 2007 Rabbit were VW Certified cars, with long bumper-to-bumper warranties. I almost bought a 2008 Sonata instead of the Jetta; the Sonata had the Hyundai Certified warranty, which extended the powertrain warranty to 10/100k. I like the peace of mind that comes with knowing I won't have unexpected repair expenses for several years.

    I used the usual search engines, e.g. autotrader.com and cars.com, to find most of these cars. You can do a search out as many miles as you like. You can also frequently check the Carfax report for the car online--some dealers provide access to the report in their ad. I use the search engines to narrow the field down to several cars that could meet my needs, then I go check them out, first by email and phone, then if there's no issue I check them in person.
  • i have an 01 elantra and it has an issue when refuling, basically it has to be refueled very slow or the fuel will come out. I need to know how to fix the issue and if any has this same issue..? I did take to a mech and they said nothing was wrong
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,737
    I can think of a couple of possible causes:

    1) kink in fuel filler hose
    2) fuel in the carbon canister (which can happen if the tank has ever been "topped off")

    You might ask the mech if they checked those things. I have found the type of pump matters with my '04 Elantra. On most pumps, no problems fueling. On others (especially at a particular station I frequent), I have to use the lowest setting on the pump and even then it shuts off with 1-2 gallons free space in the tank. So does this happen every time you fill up, at every station?
  • yes it does happen at every station and everytime i am refuling it... Its like... the convination of fumes and fuel...make the car spill the gas back out... i will speak to my mech about the suggestions... ty
  • Hi there, I have similar issue with my car, what cha need to do is used turtle wax headlight restore polish. You will clean the cover with the polish first, then if it is not clear, then you will use the buffing pads to remove the film, then re-polish the cover. It work great - good luck
  • phinn1phinn1 Posts: 1
    I've owned the 2001 elantra ve, since new and I've had too many problems to mention here, but as for the brakes; I couldn't tell you. I've used high quality, low quality and replaced calipers, hardware, cylinders, etc and it still remains the same. I would bet it might have something to do with the parts. Most of the parts I buy are not from the dealer because the dealer prices are astronomically high. I might try this next to see if it does the trick; if not,. I wonder if it could have anything to do with the suspension or the rim itself?
  • cebracebra Posts: 1
    they told me to replace my timing belt at 113000 - it may not have needed it..
    they said the same thing to me...
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Hopefully someone has had this problem and it was cleared up quickly. At random times and completely sporadically, my car will hesitate almost as if the power is being switched of and on quickly. The RPMs dip, the engine light will blink, and then it smooths out again. Sometimes it does this on acceleration, and sometimes it will stall if it is idling. Have replaced the coil already, and the engine is not throwing a code. My trusted mechanic suggested the dealer since their equipment might be more thorough in finding the issue: nothing was found. They did clean up some ground contacts which seemed to eliminate the problem until another couple of hesitations today. Is this the crank position sensor (and wouldn't that show up in a code)? Is it something else? Moisture in the tank?

    Help!
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    Off the top of my head I'd say check for the following:

    Weak alternator/belt/failing battery.
    Bad plugs/wires.
    Bad gas/moisture in the tank.
    Clogged fuel filter/failing fuel pump.

    The gas issue is the easiest & DIY thing to check. Get some gas line drier and run a few tanks of premium gas from a Top Tier brand.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Thanks for the suggestions. The problem seems to be going away, as it hasn't hesitated for a few days. Maybe there was moisture in the tank, but I could be wrong to think that moisture would cause a more consistent problem. Would moisture be drawn from the tank and into the injection system frequently on one day and almost not at all the next day? It's an interesting puzzle to try sorting out (when one isn't a mechanic).
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    Would moisture be drawn from the tank and into the injection system frequently on one day and almost not at all the next day?

    Possibly. If the moisture buildup was mostly burned off then there wouldn't be any more to cause problems.

    I'd still suggest the gas line dryer & premium gas. Call it cheap insurance.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    I tried a fuel injector cleaner and gas dryer that the man at NAPA said would help. He thought that the 15% ethanol blend might be the issue. Problem persists, but soooo erratically as before. I can drive all the way to work with not a single driveability issue, and yet on my trip home the car stumbles multiple times in quick succession and stalls twice within 30 seconds. What would happen randomly? Crank position sensor? A charging issue? Sometimes the stumbling occurs part throttle, around 2,000 or more RPM, and I can watch the tach drop off significantly while the engine light flashes once. Almost like someone is pulling the plug very briefly and then plugging back in. Except that I'm not driving a vacuum.

    What is happening??
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,737
    15% ethanol? I don't think that year Elantra is designed to run on 15%, is it?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    It was a guess. I'm not sure it had 15% in the tank, but stations are using this more and more.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    So today I'm heading back to work at lunch hour, and I am on a stretch of road doing 50 or 60, when then engine starts its little blips and the light flicks on for a moment. Then the tach drops to zero for a good 4 or 5 seconds, but the engine light is still off, then the car continues running. This is getting weird. I've ruled out hot/cold running issues, but have not ruled out moisture issues. The problem is worse on damp days, and today we had plenty of rain.

    OK, where's my car electrical expert here in the forum?
  • revellsrevells Posts: 1
    I have a '01 Elantra which did that very thing off and on for a while. It did always seem to be worse on wet days but it never got so bad that the car actually cut off all the way, it would just "blip" as you say and the check engine light would blink. Then it wouldn't happen for days or up to months at a time, but it always came back.

    I replaced all spark plugs and wires and never had another problem. I don't know how or why moisture seemed to be a factor, but the problem went away and that was all I cared about. Hope that helps!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    There might be a trouble code stored for these incidents, and it probably will indicate some kind of misfire. But pinpointing an intermittent misfire code can be quite tedious. Even a dose of bad gasoline (a touch of water) can do this, or old ignition cables, etc.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    edited April 2011
    It seems like we (mechanic and I) ruled out plugs and wires, especially since the dealer claims to have replaced the wires two years ago. I'm pretty certain they tested these. I will still consider this, of course. Car has not been showing any codes, which is why this is so aggravating.

    What about ignition control module? Would that be affected by moisture? Or should I stick with plugs and wires? Relatively cheap starting point, I would say.

    Thanks for the continuing tips, folks.
  • fordgt40fordgt40 Posts: 1
    new fan,relay,resistor pack & tried new dash control unit.still blows 30 amp fuse under hood.2005 elantra w/65,000 miles.all original,lady driven great shape.I'm lost now.speed 1 & 2 seem ok but fan speed 3 & 4 blow the fuse.circuit braker in place of fuse.blows fuse in 10 or 15 seconds.THANKS for any input!!
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,241
    Well, an automotive fan doesn't draw 30 amps so the circuit is shared with other components. You either have a problem with the wiring harness (i.e. a short somewhere) or you have other components on that line that are using enough power to send the total consumption over 30A.

    Considering that it works OK at lower fan speeds (which would use less power) my first assumption would be there's another component (or components - plural) on that fuse that's drawing more than it's fair share.

    When the fuse blows do you notice anything else that stops working (lights, radio, rear defrost, power windows, etc.)?

    A good tech ought to be able to see what all is on that line and check the power draw at the individual component level.
  • 2006 Elantra with 65k miles recently exhibits an intermittent electrical problem when not started for several hous. When the key is turned all the dash lights & elec accessories activate but the engine only gives one click sound and does not start. (yes. the key is turned fully to the start position.) After a few tries the engine does start properly and runs fine. It will re-start after this. Then, after sitting for several hours (usually overnight) it will repeat this exercise. But it only does this intermittently. Not even every day.
    Replaced the battery the first time but it kept doing this. Took it to the dealer and they said the negative battery cable was loose. They tightened it and it was fine for several days. Then it began again. Took it back to the dealer and they said the spark plug wires needed to be replaced. Had them replaced and it was fine for a few days. Now its doing the same thing. There seems to be no pattern as to the frequency of this happening. Your thoughts?
  • I took my 2003 Elantra for a state inspection. (New York) My mechanic would not pass it due to a rusted front cradle. He said the holes for the bolts are rusted out and could not be tightened. He said that the "frame cradle" would cost beteween $1500 and $2000 to replace. He said that he could not find a recall notice for this but it is a common problem and that Hyundai should repair it at their cost (no cost to me)
    The car is a 4 cyl. with 90,000 miles. I also have a 2000 Elantra with 176,000 miles and no
    problems. I was just wondering if anyone had a similar problem since my mechanic said that this is common.
  • I have a 2001 elantra and one day I came to a stop and I could feel my brakes pushed farther to the floor to stop than usual and when I got to my house I could smell what smelled like brake dust so I walked around and check the tires and it was my back left wheel. The rim was hotter than the others. I called my brother in-law, who works a little on cars and he said it could b the drum or bake line. Anyways I drove the car for about a month and I never happened again. Well today I come to a stop and I here this really loud scrapping noise. I take it to my dads and we put the car up on the lift and check the brakes, well my inner brake pads are grinded to the metal and my left rotor is bad. I got the pads and a new rotor, but I don't just don't want to fix what the problem caused before fixing the problem. Would you have any idea what might be the issue here or ha anyone had this problem as well?

    Chris

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