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Hyundai Elantra Transmission Questions

124

Comments

  • tenpin288tenpin288 Posts: 804
    You would not really be listening for anything. The idea is to open up the system and see if excessive backpressure is the cause of the performance decline. Doing so will make it loud and possibly dangerous from exhaust fume infiltration into the cabin, so I do recommend doing so only with open windows. As far as the O2 sensors, they would not get correct info but that should only be a minor problem. If high backpressure is the cause and you open up the exhaust, the performance increase should well outweigh any decrease from incorrect O2 sensor readings. ;)
  • Well I found the exhaust leak. My damn manifold is cracked in 2 places. Looks like I'm heading to the junk yard. $225.oo for a new one is just too much lol.
  • well the car goes into the dealership on tuesday. I found that the manifold was recalled and i can now get it fixed for free. my wallet is sooo happy lol
  • joegiantjoegiant Posts: 90
    Well backy to answer your question at the very beginning of this thread, after reading all 94 posts on here, the majority of which suggest problems with the automatics, I'd say 5 speed MANUAL! :)

    Or does the '09 model have a much improved transmission? As always, TIA for your opinions.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    The original question was about someone who might have ruined their Elantra's AT by using the wrong tranny fluid. That is not the fault of the transmission.

    The AT in the Elantra has improved over time but it's still a pretty basic four-speed. I am hoping Hyundai will put a more modern AT (e.g. 5AT Shifttronic like the Forte has) for 2010.

    My first Elantra, a 2001 GLS, had the 5-speed. I liked it a lot, until my oldest son, helped by his mother, trashed the clutch ($1300). Also traffic is getting worse every year. So I think I'll stick with ATs, at least until I can be sure I'm the only person in the family to drive it. For instance, my Rabbit's 6-speed Tiptronic is quite a nice unit, for an automatic.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Posts: 5,682
    ya ever get caught in a traffic jam while Prince's entourage passes through? :shades:

    Yep, Hyundai needs to develop the 5AT Shifttronic for their new world order Elantra's like Kia is plopping in to their Forte's, exactly right.

    2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS

  • moparman5moparman5 Posts: 1
    We put an automatic from 1 car into our car. It worked fine in the other car. Now it has a very good reverse and at times it has no forward. When we put it in drive it seems to work fine for 10 to 20 minutes then seems to just disengage when it wants to. On jack stands it will shift just fine then when you stop and put it in park and then put it back in drive it will start to move the wheels and then sort of clicks and stops moving. Any Ideas????? This thing is driving us nuts. We have changed the fluid and filter with the right fluid. The fluid that we drained was red and had no shavings or residue in the pan. We changed the two sensors on the end of the transmission one on top and one on bottom.
  • Just got my 2009 elantra se. Very nice but I notice 2 things with the transmission and I am wondering if it is normal or possibly a problem. 1. After the car sits for 1 to 2 hrs and I put it in reverse or drive, I get a clunk noise coming from the tranny. It is not felt in the car but the noise is there. The clunk doesn't return until I let the car sit again. 2. The tranny makes a buzzing noise for 1 to 2 seconds each time I put it into a different gear. P, D, 2, or 1. It sounds like a gear motor buzzing. Anyone else notice this? Thanks for any responses.
  • mvargasmvargas Posts: 2
    All forward gears working fine but no reverse. Drained/Opened oil pan and saw very few metal shavings - the normal wear and tear. What could be wrong w/ this tranny? Does a bad crankshaft position sensor affect the reverse gear? These cars are known to fail the CPS. Any help would be reatly appreciated. :mad:
  • Hello -

    I recently purchased a 99 Elantra and unfortunately it has tranny problems. I took it to the shop and they gave me the codes for the gear problems (P0731, P0732, P0733, and P0734). They recommend I take it to a transmission specialist. I plan to, but am very curious as to how much this is going to cost. I'm a full-time student and would like to minimize the cost as much as possible. I also ran into an AT recall, but maybe it is not related (details below). I guess my question is roughly what will this cost and what is the best way to minimize the cost if this recall will not help? Also, how long can I postpone it? What should I do/not do?

    Thank you!!!

    Recall Date:
    JUL 07, 1999
    Model Affected:
    1999 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
    Summary:
    VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS. THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE SEALS DO NOT REMAIN SUFFICIENTLY ELASTIC, RESULTING IN TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKAGE. THIS LEAKAGE CAN RESULT IN REDUCED PRESSURE APPLICATION TO THE CLUTCHES, BRAKE, AND KICKDOWN SERVO, ALLOWING THEM TO SLIP.
    Consequence:
    SUCH SLIPPAGE CAN CAUSE PREMATURE DETERIORATION OF THE FRICTION ELEMENT SURFACES AND COULD CAUSE THE VEHICLE NOT TO ACCELERATE, OR NOT ACCELERATE AS EXPECTED, WHEN THE DRIVER PRESSES THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL.
    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE.
    Potential Units Affected:
    11530
    Notes:
    HYUNDAI MOTOR COMPANY 033
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,233
    I can't really help on the diagnostic codes, but any Hyundai dealer's service department should be able to input your car's VIN into their system and pull up records to see if the recall applies to your car and if so, was it already done. They should do this for free. They may do it over the phone but might require an in-person visit.
  • I'm not intimately familiar with this model of car yet, so it could be nothing. I just want to play it safe though, so I'll ask here first.

    When accelerating from stop to about 40, there is a rumbling noise, which sounds like it's coming from right beneath the centre front floor, somewhere between the exhaust manifold and the cat. I've only listened to this from inside the car. The best I can describe it is, it is the type of sound you would hear on many GM cars like the Grand Am, Grand Prix and older Cutlass series cars. Sort of like a catalytic converter rumbling type sound. It only happens when in Drive though, not when revving in Neutral or Park.

    Is this normal? Sorry, the last car I drove was much older and I'm not the best authority on what noise should and shouldn't be there in a new car.

    Thanks in advance.
  • We bought a '09 Elantra Touring Automatic and have owned it about a month now. Twice the vehicle has rolled when in park while making a popping sound. Then the transmission locked in park and would not release until the manual release was pushed. Is this something unique, or is this something that will be a common occurrence? The dealer is saying that this is normal operating procedures. They say that the parking break must be applied to keep the vehicle from moving while the transmission is in park. Any others experiencing the same issues?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    If you parked on a grade (and I assume you did), it is pretty normal for a car to roll a slight distance until the transmission lock engages, with a sound accompanying the locking action. Your dealer is correct that to prevent the car from moving--and also to avoid damaging the transmission--you should apply the parking brake when parked on a grade.

    How far does the car roll?
  • I am not sure how far it would go. I stopped it before it ran into a car parked below us. The second time I stopped it after a few inches. Other than that and the transmission getting stuck in park one time, the car has been great. My wife drives it probably 60 miles to work and back each day. She baby's it and the computer is showing the car to be getting between 45 and 49 miles per gallon. If this is correct I am really impressed.
  • On November 24, 2009 I had the automatic transmission replaced on my 2008 Hyundai Elantra with only 23,000 miles on it, at the Hyundai dealer, thank goodness for that offered warranty by Hyundai.

    It had a sluggish ride and I would hear noises from under the hood and whenever I started the car and when I would put it into reverse, there would be a another type of noise from the shifting area. I took my car to the Hyundai service department, I told them that my car was sluggish up a hill and it's making a noise when I shift into park and reverse, the service guy drove it, took a look under the hood and noticed there was metal in the transmission fluid, and that's when they said the words "your car needs a new transmission" I just bout fell out of my seat. My baby now has a new transmission and she's peppy.

    Hopes this was helpful.
  • My 2004 Elantra has 160k miles on it and the trans is slipping. I took it to aamco last spring and they said the fluid had the dreaded burnt smell and advised that I not change the trans fluid at this point since it would cause it to deteriorate even faster. They said I would need to rebuild it soon. Now the check engine light is on and the car jerks after starting it and putting it in gear. I'm taking it in for an estimate next week, and money is tight. I can't help but wonder if it's worth putting a lot of money into the car, especially with so many miles on it. The thermostat went bad on it and it overheated last year, which now has me concerned about a blown head gasket in the near future. Maintenance, even replacing headlights, seems to be costly on the Elantra. I'm being as practical as possible but I'm not looking forward to letting this car go, it's been good and reliable. Feedback?
  • gary97gary97 Posts: 3
    Just bought a 2005 Elantra GLS 4 spd AT and was wondering if it is better to put it in 3rd gear for in town driving or leave it in 4th? It has 100K miles. Changed timing belt, new tires, trans fluid drain and checked out. Seems sluggish in 4th at lower speeds.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    If it's under 35 mph, you can keep it in 3rd. But I find 4th kicks in right around 35 mph, if you have a light foot, and then RPMs are nice and low for fuel economy. Of course, if you need hill climbing or want quicker engine response, you'll need to downshift or it will lug.
  • gary97gary97 Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding. I hope I understood you. Are you saying that fuel economy is better if left in fourth gear and let the auto trans do its thing rather than putting it in 3rd when driving in town on mostly fairly flat terrain and driving speeds varying between 0 and 40 mph?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    Fuel economy is better the lower the RPMs, as long as the engine isn't lugging. I find I can get it down to about 1400 RPMs in 4th on level ground w/o lugging. For me this is around 35-40 mph. You can leave it in "D" all the time driving around town under normal circumstances--let the transmission select the best gear. It is an adaptive tranny and will adjust shift points based on usage. So if you drive with a light foot, as I do, it will tend to shift later. If you drive more aggressively, it will learn to shift earlier.
  • gary97gary97 Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your quick response to my questions. I bought this car for my college student daughter and will pass this information on to her.

    Gary
  • sarah98sarah98 Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone would know why, all of a sudden, it's very hard to change gears on my 2001 Elantra (which has only done 60000kms, had regular services and oil changes, etc.) ? Gear change has always been very fluid until this morning when I struggled to change up and down gears, but only when the car was running - when it's off, I can easily move the gear stick between gears.
    Any help would be much appreciated !
    Thanks - Sarah
  • kangarookangaroo Posts: 2
    Noticed in last few months there was a shudder when I was reversing into a parking spot. Also a shudder even more recently when applying brakes to bring car to a stop. Hyundai dealership (commissioned, i presume) salesperson said that I needed a change in transmission fuel to the tune of close to $200 (not within warranty). I double checked my car history and found it was changed 5k ago. He backed off when I insisted they check further. He called back saying that whole transmission has to be replaced (within warranty). Whew! Apparently that's within the warranty period, which expires in January 2011. I understand it would have cost $3,000. So, the point here, is listen and don't ignore to what your car is saying to you, especially within the warranty!
  • Has anyone been having trouble with a 2007-2009 Hyundai Elantra rolling in park or have had a transmission replaced and still having the same problem please post if you have.
  • My Transmition went at 56780 miles its covered under my warranty but I am without a car for a week they say they can give me a rental at 30.00 a day and thats a discount rate i have talked to consumer of hyundai and other dealer ships they would of gave me a loaner if i puchased thru them why is it different in my home town it dont make sence its a long time without a car.
  • I just don't know who else to contact i just think its not normal for a dealership to deny a loaner and I have to pay enterprize for a rental when its not something I could control it was a defect 3 defects according to them
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,686
    Loaners are not automatically included under the general warranty; it's a dealer-to-dealer thing. $30 a day does seem steep though for an Enterprise (compact) rental. A few things to check: try to get a weekly rate vs. daily--it is usually a lot less for 7 days than paying a daily rate. You might also check to see if your auto insurance policy has rental car coverage and if it covers you in this case. Also, if you haven't tried talking with the dealership's service manager yet to help you with the rental car expense, because it's Hyundai's fault that it's taking 7 days to repair your car (I assume because they have to ship a transmission), you should do that.
  • thanks for your help.
  • Don't do it! You are better off getting another of the same car with working trans. A rebuild is going to set you back a lot of money. Besides getting a younger version of the car you love so much, you could also get away with having a "car guy" disconnect cooler lines and blow out the trans fluid, while you dump new fluid in the top of the trans. You never know. Nice fresh fluid could make a big difference. Use SP3 (Castrol make an "import" fluid that meets this spec) Next suggestion is replace speed sensors (two of them). They are $27 a piece and not that hard to replace.

    Frank
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