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Comments
I think I'll change my brake fluid since it's about three years old, but I learned a lesson about trusting the particular Subaru dealership I go to."
So long as you are an expert mechanic, with the same training at inspecting brakes as the technician who told you they were needed, no problem.
Otherwise I wonder if you are willing to bet your life, or your loved ones on it?
Brakes are cheap. Snap out of it!
-mike
Given the age of his car, in spite of the low miles, once I had the wheels off, I'd be damned if I wouldn't just replace them.
My Dad used to say, 30% brakes left just meant to him that in an emergency, he had just lowered his chances by that much.
In the grand scheme of things, brakes, batteries and tires are fairly cheap, per mile driven....why screw around on the cheap with your family or friends at stake?
At our shop we have a box of 30-50% meat left brake pads that we give away for free to any of the NASIOC or other customers who come to our shop to hang out, if they want em, since they are of no use to us.
Similarly, rotors run about $100/pair for the front retail for an Impreza or Legacy, we never suggest cutting rotors since it's $100 to replace em with brand new beefy ones.
And lastly tires can be had for about $75 for Sumitommo HTR+ in 16 or 17" sizes for the subies, so for under $100/corner you can have brand new all season tires, how dumb would one feel if you slid into someone and did 1000s of dollars in damage due to bad tires or brakes?
-mike
To be totally honest, I have been there, done that, with tires and brakes. I am sometimes dumb, but you don't have to hit me over the head with a hammer twice! :P
I appreciate the feedback which I find reasuuring as I have been RIPPED off by repair shops in the past.
Would stil appreciate any suggestions on brake pads and tires if any one cares to...
I use snow tires in the winter so I need new tires for the rest of the year.
For brake pads, I drive a lot of hills and am fairly aggressive I guess. I head the "green things" are a good choice.
I lived for many years in the mountains....7,000 feet above Southern California, and I can tell you, no matter how one drives, it is murder on brakes. It is one of the prices you pay for doing so.....
HP+ for Track/Auto-x/StreetUse -high dust
HPs for Street/auto-x/aggressive driving -low dust
Shoot me an e-mail on the pads as I may have some new HPs pads sitting around.
For tires, if you are looking for summer tires the Yokohama ES100s are great summer-only tires. I also like the Sumitommo HTR+ all-seasons as well.
-mike
John
Scott
Thanks,
Scott
Same applies to having them done, you have already paid two-thirds of the labor cost just replacing the pads.
I am doing my brakes in a month or two so maybe I will have a better idea then.
John
Basically you find an open, empty road and slow down from 60 or so down to about 5 mph without stopping. Then speed up, wait a minute for them to cool, and repeat. Don't come to a full stop, though.
Sorry that's a bit vague, but I read about that when I changed my pads and did that to get them seated properly. My brakes are perfectly quiet and smooth.
I don't think the bumps are good, get them broken in first on a smooth road.
Worth a try.
-juice
-mike
Scott
John
I'd start with the tires and work my way up from there.
-mike
I also have a 94 Mitz Galant with old tires and no ABS and it stops much better on the same road surface.
They may be "rated" well for M&S but to be honest I don't believe any ratings. If the tires aren't working for your situation change em out.
-mike
-mike
If you want to test whether the car is behaving normally before winter strikes again, find yourself a gravel road somewhere and jam the brakes with authority. That should illicit the same sensation in the brake pedal.
-mike
-mike
Dave
-mike
Rear discs end up needing drums for parking brakes anyway. So I'm not sure if they save any weight or complexity.
-mike
-mike
The proper proceedure uses 2 or 3 people.
Crack the bleeder then re-tighten.
Have the person in the car pump the brakes tight, person cracking brake line should say "Open".
Crack the bleeder while they apply pressure til the pedal hits floor, then keep pressure and say "floor".
Person at the wheel then closes the bleeder and says "Closed".
The pumper in the drivers seat then pumps them up again and says "Hard"
Rinse and repeat this. You'll probably need to do it about 20x on each rear and 10x on the fronts.
The 3rd person can keep checking the master cylinder, or else it will run dry.
This will flush your fluid and drastically improve braking and extend the life of your brake system. It should be done every other year.
-mike
1) right front
2) left rear
3) left front
4) right rear
-mike
Most subies take rotors at 60-80k miles.
-mike
New pads are $20 or so, so I'd just replace them, myself. Ever done brakes?
Even if you have to pay your mechanic, the pads are several years old and I would go ahead and flush the brake fluid while you're at it.
The 2009s are out so yours are 4-5 years old now, I'd just replace the pads.