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Subaru Forester Brake Questions

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Comments

  • dave139dave139 Posts: 19
    I have a 2005 Forester "X" model with nearly 32,000, purchased new. Been back to the dealer 5 times with same problem: squeaking rear brake drums. The mechanic cleans them but the noise comes back within a week. Happens all the time, cold or hot. Dealer says I have to live with it. Hard to believe something like this can't be permanently fixed. Any suggestions?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    There were drums on 2005 Foresters?

    -mike
  • dave139dave139 Posts: 19
    Right, rear drums but only on the X trim level.
    Dave
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Gotcha, hmm I never paid much attention to drum brakes on any of my cars as they didn't do much stopping. I'd guess it's the spring mechanism in there causing the squeeking.

    -mike
  • dave139dave139 Posts: 19
    Thanks..Just returned from the dealer. The svc. mgr test drove the care himself this time and found the noise to be in left rear drum. They found that there was a "high" spot on the drum which was sanded. They also serviced the pads and added some sort of lube. The noise has gone away (again) but the test will be to see if it lasts.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    True, the front brakes do 90% of the work, just look at your pad wear.

    Rear discs end up needing drums for parking brakes anyway. So I'm not sure if they save any weight or complexity.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    With EBD, you get things spaced out better. On my Armada I do about 2 to 1 Front to Rear. As for complexity? The drum-in disc parking brake isn't too complex, I never touch drums with the springs and what not, but rear discs are great to replace, quite easy.

    -mike
  • Need help, I have an 02 forester with rear drum brakes..... after I adjust them, after a little bit of driving, the pedal goes right to the floor when I go to stop then on the next pressing of the pedal, it goes back to normal. this happens until I can un-adjust them then they are fine.... Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    I have had that problem before with a couple of 1969 vehicles; in those cases, the diaphragm in the master cylinder (under the hood) was kaput. I doubt that is your problem in this case, though.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You most likely need to flush/bleed your brake fluid system. That is generally what that pumping action means. Probably when you adjusted them you may have lowered the fuild level below the full mark in the master cylinder and introduced air to the system.

    -mike
  • Thanks Mike...... do you happen to know the bleeding procedures?..... I was told that there is a sequence that has to be followed when bleeding the subarus similar to rotating tires, meaning that you can't just pick a side and bleed.....
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You want to start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer which usually means right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

    The proper proceedure uses 2 or 3 people.
    Crack the bleeder then re-tighten.
    Have the person in the car pump the brakes tight, person cracking brake line should say "Open".
    Crack the bleeder while they apply pressure til the pedal hits floor, then keep pressure and say "floor".
    Person at the wheel then closes the bleeder and says "Closed".
    The pumper in the drivers seat then pumps them up again and says "Hard"

    Rinse and repeat this. You'll probably need to do it about 20x on each rear and 10x on the fronts.

    The 3rd person can keep checking the master cylinder, or else it will run dry.

    This will flush your fluid and drastically improve braking and extend the life of your brake system. It should be done every other year.

    -mike
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I need help with a different problem. Two weeks ago the pulley went and cause the timing belt to jump. Repair ran $775.00 on my 2000 Forester. But the engine misses now and the dealer (who I am not happy with) said I have valve damage but did not say which ones. I wonder did he put the belt on correctly. The engine had 254,000 on it. Are the CD versions of the manuals off of eBay a good buy? Thanks :(
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The order for our Subies is:

    1) right front

    2) left rear

    3) left front

    4) right rear
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Odd, I've done Right Rear->Left Rear->Front Right->Front Left for 10+ years w/o issue on 100s of cars....

    -mike
  • nocnoc Posts: 1
    there was a ticking sound coming from the back end and my dealer told me I needed all new brake pads and rotors? Car only has 53K mile thought that was really soon - had the car since new and have done 15K, 30K and 50K service
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    For pads that's normal, but it's a bit early for rotors. You may want to get a 2nd opinion on those.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Pads are way over due. You may have gone too far and ruined the rotors.

    Most subies take rotors at 60-80k miles.

    -mike
  • ziggy15ziggy15 Posts: 2
    The brakes on my two Foresters screech. One has 22K miles and the other 28K. I have taken them to Subaru dealers who tell me the discs are glazed or there is dust or stones in them. I took them to a brake repair chain, who told me there was a manufacturing defect. I have not received any recalls from Subaru, and called the 800 number. They said there were no recalls. Can someone tell me what the problem is? I had several earlier Foresters that did not have this problem. :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If pads are glazed they can be scuffed, i.e. they scratch the surface.

    New pads are $20 or so, so I'd just replace them, myself. Ever done brakes?

    Even if you have to pay your mechanic, the pads are several years old and I would go ahead and flush the brake fluid while you're at it.

    The 2009s are out so yours are 4-5 years old now, I'd just replace the pads.
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