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2009 Mazda6

1545557596074

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  • Hi RunningDoc,

    I had been settled on getting a 2008 or 2009 Accord 4cyl since I heard about all the details of the redesign. As Backy replied the Accord has proven safety as shown by the IIHS tests in all categories. The Accord also has something called the ACE body structure. This helps level the playing field if you had a front crash with a vehicle weighing more. All IIHS Front test results are only valid for an equal or similar weight vehicle involved in the accident. I believe it will help after researching the design, however there are no tests to quantify the magnitude of enhanced protection. The Mazda IIHS complete test results should done by January.

    One thing that bothered me, a small thing while test driving the Accord was the lack of padding on the armrest of the driver's door. My elbow actually hurt after taking an extended drive. The Mazda's is not as padded as an Altima, however it was not uncomfortable and has a solid piece underneath. The Accord seemed to have two support pieces underneath and gaps between them.

    The main thing that deterred me from buying the Accord that I had long been waiting on was the City MPG (I drive 85% city). Even though it is rated at 21mpg city several owners, many who had been Honda Accord owners mutlipe times and professional reviewers noted the car did not achieve the good mileage it had been known for in past years. Consumer Reports has a city simulation that is more demanding than the EPA tests. It was interesting to see that the 4cyl Accord scored a 15mpg city, the same as the 6cyl Accord! The Altima received 18mpg City in their tests. During my extended test drive of the 6i, I found the computer calculation of mileage to be within 0.2 mpg of actual and achieved 22mpg City.

    Good luck on your decision.
  • i suspect how you feel about it depends on what you are driving now. I came from a Forrester, so I think it's plenty fast with a decent kick. If you drive something sporty now, I dunno.

    It's zero to 60 is around 8 seconds, and feels plenty fast to me. I will say the older 6's seem to have a touch more 'zoom zoom' to them, but the new one is very well behaved, and kicks in when I need it to. Passing speed kicks in nicely.

    I've had my i Touring for about 2 months now, and I love it.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    2nd tank, drove all city driving, including lots of stop and go traffic commuting to work.
    Mileage: Exactly 25.56 miles per gallon
    Comparatively my wife's Acura TSX with the 2.4L Honda engine is getting 21.38 miles per gallon in mixed city/hwy (70%HWY, 30% CTY).
    So yes, comparatively the Honda's 2.4 seems much worse in fuel economy than the Mazda's 2.5.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    2nd tank, drove all city driving, including lots of stop and go traffic commuting to work.Mileage: Exactly 25.56 miles per gallon

    That's damn good. I manage to get around 22-23 city in my 2.3L after 46,000 miles.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,048
    Driving habits will drastically affect city driving mpg performance. If he and his wife switched cars for a month it could be the other way around. I'm not saying it would be....just could be. Maybe she's a closet Mario Andretti or something.
  • I live in New England and have asked different people about how cars manage in snow. I know the new Mazda 6 has the "stability control" and other features that help out in winter conditions. Some people swear by snow tires, others say "oh the 'all weather' tires that come on the car are adequate. For those of you who have and use snow tires, do they help out considerably? If so, what kind are a good choice to invest in?
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I also live in New England and I have all-season tires (OEM) on my 2005 Mazda6 and I do just fine. However, many of my customers do buy Bridgestone Blizzak's. Those are a pretty damn good snow tire.
  • ventureventure Central PAPosts: 551
    Some people swear by snow tires, others say "oh the 'all weather' tires that come on the car are adequate. For those of you who have and use snow tires, do they help out considerably? If so, what kind are a good choice to invest in?

    I just traded a BMW in for a Mazda 6s GT. I drove the BMW in snow with the standard all season tires for a few weeks before I put a set of Michelin X-ice on the car. The difference was day & night. The winter tires are far superior - not only in starting traction, but also in handling and stopping. The BMW also had stability control and traction control.

    I am going to wait for the first snow to see how the Mazda does, but I am expecting I will be on tirerack.com ordering up a set of winter tires and wheels.

    A good choice? I put Blizzaks on the wife's Forester in the winter and she can go anywhere.

    As I said, I had the X-ice on the BMW and they were also great in the snow when new - not so much the third winter. One thing I can tell you about the Michelins - in warm weather, in the rain, it's like driving on ice. :surprise:

    As far as cost - If you use winter tires your all-seasons are going to last longer and when you sell the car you can also sell the winter tires, if still good, and you can also sell the extra wheels.

    2014 Fusion, 2013 Impreza, 2015 Forester

  • xyz123xyz123 Posts: 18
    Hi b0nzai. Winter tires make a very noticeable difference. All-season tires make compromises in almost every category, but in return they offer versatility no other type of tire can match. Not everyone is willing or capable of spending the money on two or three sets of tires for optimal traction and perfomance the whole year round. So, all-season tires are a near perfect solution. Adequate in light snow, and hopefully okay in anything heavier.

    However, in New England, winter tires may be well worth the price. Even in Chicago where winter isn't as lengthy, though it's occassionally just as severe, it's a reasonable investment. You'll probably encounter enough unplowed roadways to justify the expense.

    Stability control and traction control primarily serve to keep drivers safely within their traction limits. Traction control will not allow you to accelerate any faster than if you had modulated your throttle skillfully. Stability control will not alter physics to keep you from oversteering, etc., but will keep you from getting too close to your chasis' limits. Winter tires raise those limits, providing a wider envelope of ability and thus potential safety. You will notice more traction accelerating, more roadholding in turns, and more grip in braking. It won't transform your car into a studded tired Subaru, but you'll feel a difference nonetheless.

    Bridgestone Blizzaks are the most famous of the road worthy winter tires, and are still near the top of the class. But, Michelin's X-Ice tires are garnering even better reviews, including a recent one done by the Tire Rack. If you're really serious about driving in snow and ice, look into snow tires and studded tires!
  • xyz123xyz123 Posts: 18
    May I ask how the V6 drivers are doing on gas mileage?

    Admittedly, I drive somewhat aggressively. On top of that I only have 250 miles. The trip computer claims 18.9 for the 2/3 highway 1/3 city driven thus far. Fuel pump comparison to come.

    I4 drivers seem to be doing quite well. Congratulations!
  • rik4rik4 Posts: 90
    i would look at nokians for winter tires. i have them for four years now and never ever rregretted it.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >18.9 for the 2/3 highway 1/3 city driven thus far.

    my 3.0L v6 (2003) did the same in the first year.
    5 years later, I have consistently got 23.5 -24.5mpg since the last 4 years.....
  • xyz123xyz123 Posts: 18
    Wow, 23.5 to 24.5 for mixed driving is really good for a V6. Do you drive conservatively? I can see how the first year could be lower with fuel efficiency. But, it's great that your mileage is doing well even five years in.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,048
    I had an old fashioned pushrod V6, 3.8L in a Buick LaSabre that consistently year after year got average of 24-25 mpg. Used to get 30-31 on long trips. When it got old at about 12 years the mpg dropped down to 23-24 mpg average. V6s used to get that kind of mpg routinely until they started to up the hp to over 250 and added a lot of weight to the cars.

    The 09 Mazda6 V6 at 272 hp could have been geared a little higher to enhance mpg but they wanted the zoom-zoom instead. I think if they were more competitive on with the other V6s in midsizers they would sell a lot more of them. When someone sees a Hyundai V6 sticker at 29 mpg EPA hwy and then a Mazda at 25 mpg, it really sticks out.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,678
    When someone sees a Hyundai V6 sticker at 29 mpg EPA hwy and then a Mazda at 25 mpg, it really sticks out.

    Perhaps…but that is just the sticker. I can get easily 28mpg (straight highway) in my 4.5L V8 (high hp); under the new ranking it’s 16/23 mpg.

    Many years ago I had trouble breaking 26mpg (mixed) in a civic; I needed to red-line it all day because of the low hp…it didn’t have the oomph I desired.

    If one vehicle requires full (3/4) throttle all day for a similar driving experience then I doubt you’d be achieving EPA numbers.

    I’m placing less and less confidence in EPA; although I supposed its one of the only ways to try and compare mileage between different automobiles.
  • I just picked mine up a few days ago. It had ~ 250 miles due to a dealer transfer. Does anyone know the best way to break the engine in?

    I have searched a little here and found that the factory oil should be left in for 5000 miles and I should vary my speed somewhat. I also read during the first 20 miles or so one should floor it, then go easy I think for the cylinders (that is of course not possible on mine).

    I really don't know what to do but would like to make sure I maximize the mileage the best I can. :confuse:

    Can anyone help me?

    Thank you
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    This is how I know it should be done.
    For the first 1000 miles
    1. Vary your speed. In other words do not use cruise control or stay at the same speed.
    2. Do not go above 60 mph.
    3. This means city style driving with frequent acceleration and deceleration is the best way to go.
    4. If you drive on the open hwy outside of rush hour, make sure to vary your speed.
    5. I would do the first oil change at around 3000 miles. Also watch the oil level during this period.'
    I do not think Flooring it is a good idea at any time :)
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Mazda recommends a break in period of 500 miles.

    Drive at variable speeds and try to avoid constant speeds for long durations. Going over 60mph is ok.

    Avoid extreme braking at highway speeds.

    Avoid WOT from stop.

    No break in oil needed.

    First oil change at 3,000 miles.

    Every other oil change at between 3,000-5,000
    That's it.
  • ohblueohblue Posts: 39
    I thought I was told by the dealer that oil changes were every 7,500? I guess I'll have to get the book out.

    In any case, I was told years ago by a Toyota mechanic that the best thing you could do is change your oil after 1,000 miles, then after another 2,000, then whatever the manufacture recommends. I've did it for my last 3 cars and I'll be doing for this car as well.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >Wow, 23.5 to 24.5 for mixed driving is really good for a V6. Do you drive conservatively?

    Conservatively???

    Ha!....If I wanted to do that I would have purchased a Camry.....
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >I thought I was told by the dealer that oil changes were every 7,500? I guess I'll have to get the book out.

    That sound about right.

    My first oil change was at 3K.

    After that, I am doing one every 10K since the oils nowadays are such great. I use Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend or Mobil1 0W-20.

    Incidentally, that makes roughly 8 oil changes in 5 years now :shades:
  • ventureventure Central PAPosts: 551
    I checked mine after I first got it and it was around 24 on a trip of about 300 miles (if I remember correctly).

    I just checked it today after a tank of almost all city/surburban/short trips with one tiny trip of about 65 miles. It was 17.74 MPG.

    I just turned 1,000 miles. My experience with new vehicles is it will get slightly better, but nothing to "write home about".

    I don't have a lot of concern about mileage in town. My concern is highway mileage simply because of how often you will have to stop for gas. When I'm rolling, I like to keep rolling.

    For a car as big and heavy as the 6 is, 24 MPG is acceptable. Of course everyone would like to get 50 MPG. :)

    2014 Fusion, 2013 Impreza, 2015 Forester

  • ventureventure Central PAPosts: 551
    Does anyone know the best way to break the engine in?

    It's in your owners manual on page 4-6.

    I have always driven a new car like I stole it. No harmful effects yet.

    "If you treat them like a baby, they will act like a baby" - but that's just me. :shades:

    2014 Fusion, 2013 Impreza, 2015 Forester

  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I thought I was told by the dealer that oil changes were every 7,500? I guess I'll have to get the book out.


    Unless you drive 80% highway with out traffic, then 7,500 would be what you do as per maintenance schedule 1 on your owners manual. If you do mixed driving, then every 5,000 miles as per maintenance schedule 2 in your owners manual.

    I do every 3,000 with mainly city driving.
  • I just received the cargo net my dealer ordered.

    It is P/N 0000-8K-H02 NOT 0000-8K-H02A that the website calls out. It appears this net had a mfg date of 2006 and was previously shipped to someone else. There are no instructions as someone else had said should come with it.

    Does anyone know the difference between and "...HO2" and "...HO2A"?
  • Under mixed driving - my daily commute is 70% hw and 30% city - I got a mileage of 20.9 mpg. This is when I calculated it myself and the car's trip computer for the exact same period showed 19.9 mpg. I have 2K miles on my 2009 Mazda6 V6.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,678
    After that, I am doing one every 10K since the oils nowadays are such great. I use Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend or Mobil1 0W-20.

    I agree with the benefits of synthetic, but I wouldn't go past the manufacturers interval. If you do experience any problems and they require evidence of maintenance they won't give you "credit" for using synthetic disregarding their interval policies...you'll be SOL for the repairs.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >If you do experience any problems and they require evidence of maintenance they won't give you "credit" for using synthetic disregarding their interval policies...you'll be SOL for the repairs.

    Point taken.

    But at nearly 90K miles, I am SOL anyways :sick:

    The point is, new oils and premium filters are wonderful, and they retain excellent properties at least upto 10K, if not more. My engine is as clean as it was in the first year as a result of using synthetics.

    I am an engineer and trust my engineering guts more than anything else.
    I went with a Mazda (twice) when nobody in the right mind (in my social circle) would think about doing it. That was solely based upon what I felt,as an engineer, in the vehicle I test drove the first in 1999. Mazda builds solid cars. No doubt about that. The Protege, the 6 and the 3. All testament to that.

    Getting back to oil change intervals, the rest of the world has a longer OCI than the usual 3K propoganda in the US, more like 15K.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,678
    Agreed;

    I do the 3k change interval (105k mi) but only put the 'regular'; I only do about 7-8k mi per year so I don't want to go through multiple seasons (and over a year) on one oil change...plus I worry about the oil filter going that long too. Probably wouldn't matter anyway since I live in a temperate climate (86F now).

    I think the oil change debate has been going around for a long time...usually ending where it starts :D
  • Hi Venture,

    I ordered the cargo net from the dealer and received it in a mazda bag that was pre-opened and had evidence it was shipped out in 2007 by the pull ticket and had two mazda labels on it, one that was so old they did not use bar codes and the part number was 0000-"89"-H02, the other newer label had a date of 2006 and was 0000-8K-H02.

    Both of those numbers are not what the website calls out for 0000-8K-H02A.

    If I sent you an email, could you do me a favor and email back a scan of the instructions you got with yours? Mine did not come with any.
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