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2009 Mazda6

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  • Technically, yes that is true that a dealership is compensated for S-plan. But first, if you get caught selling an S-plan vehicle for anything but S-Plan, you can lose your rights to sell it and basically get in deep doo doo. Second, if you come into a dealership and try to negotiate on S-Plan, typically you'll get shown the door. S-Plan is what dealership employees (except for Gold Cup dealers) pay, and to ask to pay less than an employee of the company is downright insulting.

    "leaving money on the table" is what is supposed to happen in a capitalist society. The way you phrase that, you seem to have the belief that a dealership shouldn't make any profit on the car. This is the primary reason why more and more marques are making the compensation to dealerships more and more complex because if it's easy for someone to figure out, they want it all. That's why there are Care bonuses, and stair steps, and S-Plan and Holdback and Stand Alone bonuses.

    If you're S-plan, that's the best price you should expect unless you work for a gold cup dealership or work for MNAO. If you're not, current "good deals" on the car, and if you want to minimize your haggling, offer to pay 500 over invoice on i SV's and Sports, 800 over on i tourings and s sports, 1000 over on tourings and gt's and 1300 over on Nav cars.

    That's between 3.5 and 2% profit. If that's not fair, never ever buy jewlery again because you'd choke if you knew their mark up. Let's put it this way, we make less on a fully loaded 42 thousand dollar CX-9 sold at sticker than most jewlers do selling a 1.5 karot wedding ring.

    Okay, rant over. Everyone on both sides amkes buying a car so much more immensely difficult than it needs to be. I just hate the belief perpetrated by all "car buying" advice segments that your goal as a consumer is to allow the dealership no profit. The only thing dumber is the "spring your trade on at the end" theory. That's the most worthless tactic (and transparrent). I don't lie to you (you being a general customer), don't lie to me. If you do, and I catch you in it, we do kick you out and have done it in the past.

    Second rant over.

    Oh, and where we're at, I can drive to 3 other dealerships in under 20 minutes.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I know this is the wrong thread to add to what you said, but basically in the mind of a customer , dealer profit = getting ripped off.

    Last I checked this is a capitalist nation, and businesses are in business to make money. Anyway, that is a discussion for another thread.

    As for S-Plan, you are right. You cannot take a lower price (or higher) then S-Plan and still collect the S-Plan compensation, or Mazda will audit you, and possibly be open to fines and added restrictions! That is why dealers will be very very stern, and will not hesitate to show you the door if a customer try's to negotiate S-Plan. One should be lucky the dealer even accepts it. Remember, S-Plan participation is not required by Mazda!

    All those who have been negotiation with a dealer that is willing to accept S-Plan on an 09 Mazda6, consider your selves lucky. There are a few around me who don't on 09 Mazda6's and any Mazda3.

    BTW, we are Gold Cup. Are you?
  • Yeah, Gold cup this year for the first time. our dealership is just about 5-6 years old though.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Ours too. We have had the Mazda franchise since 03
  • kipdkipd Posts: 4
    Thank you both for the info. Appreciate it. I don't plan to attempt to negotiated given how new this car is and that there is a specific one that I want. Just going to make the deal at the S-plan price. And if that's the rule the dealer is supposed to live by per Mazda, then I'm not going to ask them to break that rule anyway. As a former Ford Motor Company corporate employee, I know that people do negotiate on A-plan pricing (or at least they used to).

    I understand that the dealer has to make money for a capitalist system to work. But it is also true that in a capitalist system the buyer attempts to get the best deal he/she can get. It has to work both ways or the system fails. Dealers try to get as much as they can and buyers try to pay the least. Understand it's frustrating to a dealer if a customer want you to make $0 profit, but with the complexity of incentives, dealer hold-back, financing, etc., it's very tough for anyone to really understand how much a dealer is or isn't making.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    A-Plan for Ford is the true employee price.

    I can't say I disagree with your last statement, however, we are in a capitalist society is. Everything is always about making money for personal gain in every business.
  • I paid 1500 under invoice today for an 09 I sport 6 spd, at a dealer in Mass. No s-plan or anything dealer called me during the week and said if I bought it by the weekend he'd give it to me for that price and he did.
  • hello everyone. I got the 09 mazda 6 gt the first day it came out and I am really happy with it. For the price, cannot ask for more. its a wonderful car. but recently, i been having a couple of little problems, i hope someone can help me here. first is, yesterday the warning for low air pressure on tire monitoring went on. so, i went to gas station and checked the pressure. for some reason, 3 of my tires says 22 psi and one was 19 around. so, i assume that was the reason i had the warning, so i put more air into it. but then i found out all the wheels should have 32 psi. so, i want to know, is it 22 or 32? if its 32, why are all my tires 22. also, the tire monitoring warning is no longer on. my second and more important question is regarding the push start button. for some reason, for the past 2 weeks, sometimes when I push the start button to start the car, it wouldnt start. it would turn on half way and then turn off. my friend tried it and it was fine. most of the time, its fine for me too, but sometimes it happens. I am thinking maybe is the way I press the button or something. maybe i am not holding on the brakes long enough. can someone help me out here. I know i have warranty, plus i hope these are small problems, so i dont have to go back to dealer, too much hassle. thank you everyone. laters
  • I think that instead of complaining that consumers try to get the best deal possible, you should complain about the auto industry itself. Where else does a consumer have to go through the BS games they have to just to buy a car. They set up the rules and the consumer is the bad guy for playing by them?

    When you go to Giant Eagle, do you ask the produce guy to go in the back and ask the manager if you can have those apples for 20 cents less a pound?
  • tom17tom17 Posts: 134
    When you start the car you need to keep your foot on the brake until the car is running. I think you are removing your foot early. Should not have to hold the button in for a long time, but must hold your foot on the brake. Start the car with your foot on the brake and just keep it there until you put the car into drive (or reverse).

    As for the tire pressure, the 32 PSI pressure is the right one. The dealership probably did not set the pressure right before they delivered the car.
  • rik4rik4 Posts: 90
    you could make the pressure 35psi and you will get better mileage but the car will ride harder.
  • thanks for the answers guys, but it happened again just before. it took me 3 tries to start the car. i had my foot on brake the whole time too. I just found out another thing. for some reason, the car temperature, the pin was all the way up, on top, and then it went slowly back to the middle. I wanted to know if this is normal? thanks again for answers
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Just to be sure, buy your own quality tire pressure gauge. The gauge at the local gas station could have been thrown around a thousand times and should not be trusted.
  • Does anyone know for sure which is the better engine: the 2.0 or the 2.3 that comes in the Mazda3? No one in that forum knows much. tyvm guys/gals :shades:
  • there is not a better engine! there both very well made but its do you want more power or more MPG even though the difference is not much 2 miles per gallon i personally would go with the 2.3 5 dr.
  • Yeah, that is what I was thinking......got to go with the 2.3. tyvm! :shades:
  • Picked up my new 2009 Mazda6 on Saturday - wanted to share my thoughts for those interested:

    First, the deal - 2009 Mazda6i Touring w/convenience package AT. Onyx Black exterior, black leather/cloth interior.
    MSRP $24,885
    S-Plan Price $23,049
    S-Plan rebate ($400)
    Private Launch ($1,000)
    Net Price - $21,649 (+ttl +$250 doc fee)

    Impressions:
    Exterior: Went with the black onyx which (IMO) looks awesome and very sporty, although obviously will be tougher to maintain. All of the chrome and silver Mazda accented the vehicle with really stands out with the black which I love. 17" alloys are growing on me, they look much better up close than in pictures or from far away. I've had several complements on the looks in the few short days I've owned it.

    Interior: I was tempted by the gray interior choice, but they were just far too light and some strange choices by Mazda (i.e. black seat belts) really were the clincher to go with the black. The leather/cloth combo so far is very nice - - gives you the look of upscale leather but with a little more uniqueness and comfort with the cloth inserts. It'll be interesting to see how much the cloth inserts warm up the feel this winter (contemplating after-market heaters). I really like the look of the glossy-black inserts on the console area (SOOOO much better than the faux wood used by many competitors). The stereo area is somewhat confusing with the myriad of buttons, this is helped though by the steering wheel-mounted controls. Omission of the mute button (which is replaced by the bluetooth 'call' button on the wheel) is a downside.

    Features:
    So far the bluetooth works very well. The voice recognition so far has yet to fail and incoming calls are clear. I've had some complaints from people on the other end having problems hearing clearly, but that could be a phone or signal strength issue. I like how Mazda includes "auto" features like climate control, lights, wipers, etc. but doesn't force the user into it. Xenon lights are great at night, as is the very cool illumination the 6 has (gauges, stereo, etc. are all lit up nicely). The advanced keyless entry works very well, I love how it 'senses' your hand on the door handle and immediately unlocks the door. Blind Spot Monitoring is a great technology and has worked very well.

    Ride/Handling/Performance: Went with the 2.5L I4 and so far I think I made the right decision, saving me ~$2,500 upfront and likely $500 a year on gas. MPGs so far averaging 26-27 in about a 50/50 mixed driving. I hoping this improves with engine wear-in and with me being a little less aggressive on the pedal. I'm no car expert, but so far I've been impressed with the handling. Acceleration is good (for a 4cyl) and road noise is almost completely eliminated in the cabin.

    Negatives: the steering wheel mounted audio controls make a very high pitch "beep" every time the volume or station is changed, which is very annoying. For example, if you have the volume set low for some reason (lets say volume '5') and want to turn up to the average listening volume (between '15'-'25') you will hear a beep for every notch you do. Even if you hold up the volume button, you will then get one continous loud beep until you reach your volume destination. Does anyone know if this can be turned off/reduced? Also, wind noise has been an issue, as I feel like I'm hearing a consistent wind noise over my left shoulder - almost sounds like an issue with a gap in the sealant in the door or something - - if it doesn't improve I might get it checked at the dealer.

    Overall:
    I would highly recommend the vehicle for those looking in this class - the combination of style and features are a class above the competition in this segment. It really feels like I'm driving a luxury car which is amazing considering the $21k purchase price. For those on a budget, the 6i Touring w/convenience package is a great deal, as you get nearly all the features of the GT for $1,600 less (plus it's nearly impossible to find a GT without the $1700 Moonroof/bose package-so if those features aren't that important to you, you are really saving $3k+)

    I'd be glad to answer any questions -
  • Go through the menu where the bass and treble are. There is an option to turn the beep off. This menu is accessed by pressing the tuning knob (each press goes to a new item, bass->treble->balance->fade->Welcome->beep.... I think in that order or close). I don't know why they come with the beep on from the factory. First thing I disable when I test drive a car.

    As for lack of mute, this has always bugged me too, but the one saving grace is the mode button does pick up the ability to turn off the stereo complety and to turn it on. This isn't the case without the Bt. So you can "mute" the stereo by pressing mode about 2 times depending on where you are in the stereo.
  • I got a S Plan pin number from WorldKarting and I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the S Plan pricing is in New York (Long Island specifically). I called MazdaUSA and they told me that the pricing car specific and they couldn't tell me.

    Basically, I want to know if there is a S Plan rebate in my area and what the regional assessment fee is. Also, how did you guys get the $1000 private launch cash. I signed up for email updates and never heard back from them.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    The 2009 Mazda 6 is the one to beat. Amazing looks, amazing value for the money. Signed for a new one on Saturday. GT-I4 with luxury package, Dark blue with grey leather. Can't wait to pick it up.
    I am very picky, I truly love what they did with this car. Nothing currently comes close. But I did find 3 things to complain about.
    1. The outside mirrors do not fold.
    2. The dash uses the soft nice to the touch material on the passenger side, and uses hard plastic on the drivers side.
    3. The clicking sound of the turn signals drove me nuts when I was test driving the car. Can that sound be changed?
    Other than that, I have nothing bad to say.
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