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Honda Odyssey Transmission Problems



  • I had the same issue but I owned the 2005 Odyssey since the start. It always shuddered shifting gears around 40MPH when accelarating slowly. I complained about it for years and they said they could not see any issues and updated the software twice, which ultimately made it worse. I took out the car for a drive with the dealership technician and I was able to replicate the issue.
    They finally replaced the torque converter (although not the trannmission which is odd/probably bad) and it seems to be better. I had a 5 year/100k warrantee and they honored even though I was a little over because I reported the issue during the coverage period. The engine/tranny still is not silky smooth for such a new car so I wonder if something else down the line is looming...
  • The extended warranty was only for 1999-2001 models. The rest of us are screwed until someone starts a new class action lawsuit...
  • I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 71,000 miles, purchased Dec 2001, that
    recently ran out of the extended warranty period:
    On Aug 27th while travelling on I10 10 miles east
    of Indio, Ca the van lost all power, the engine RPM went to redline, and
    smoke was pouring out of the engine compartment. After coasting to the
    shoulder, I noted transmission fluid all over the engine compartment and
    transmission fluid all over the ground. After an hour hike in the
    desert and another hour waiting for the tow truck, the van was towed.
    02 Odyssey at 71K needed a new transmission. Have a call into Honda
    to see what can be done.
  • Our 2004 Odyssey did the same shuddering, sounding like we were going over RR tracks. I dismissed it at first, but after dismissing it for almost two years, I took it in to a Honda dealership. All they told me was that I needed to replace the transmission, and they would do it for $4,800! I took it to a transmission specialist, who put in a rebuilt tranny for $3,200, and guaranteed it for 3 years. It runs great now, we just got back from a vacation in the Smokies, and had NO problems. Just like new. It's a shame that we didn't see this coming, because everything else on the Odyssey works great.
  • That shudder usually comes from the torque converter, not the transmission itself. But, to get to the torque converter you have to drop the transmission. By the time you do that it's not a great deal more money to rebuilt the tranny itself.
  • tgwgtgwg Posts: 4
    It is too bad that the transmission is faulty because everything else it terrific on the odyssey. I am in complete aggreance with you. What I do not understand is that you can bring the van to a transmission dealer and replace it for approx.$3200.- with a 3 year warranty, but when taken to a Honda dealer the price is $4500.- to $4800.- Why such a dramatic difference in price?? Seems that the dealer is just trying to make some extra money even though it is their product with the faulty tranny.

    Something seems amiss on both parts!!

    Maybe a Honda rep can get on this blog and explain the reasons why people are getting hosed twice by the same company!!
  • Soooo, here I sit with so many of you. My wife told me that our check engine light came on on our cherished 02' Odyssey. I took it in to get checked out, only to find out that the unimaginable has happened - P0740 & P1730. For those that are new here those little codes mean I get to decide to pay for a new transmission, or I can trade it in for another vehicle.

    I really can't believe this. We actually reported tranny issues at approx 62K, but the dealership assured us it was nothing, so we pressed on. Now, the beast is basically dead. Amazing... I would of never guessed this would happen with a Honda, but I - and many of you would be wrong, because it appears to actually be happening to most of us...

    Well I do have a Honda case number, but from the sounds of it here I would have better luck asking for them to buy me a new van than a new transmission. Heck, maybe I should of asked them to just give me directions to the nearest Toyota dealership... :-) Darn shame too, considering the 2011 Odyssey looks pretty good.

    Good luck to all of you in the same boat as me...
  • Question to pgnagel and others,
    In regard to transmission cooler and in-line filter that you suggest to add on, what will be cost roughly? and where can we get this done normally? I think I have to get my trany re-built soon, and am just wondering if it's worth to install both you have suggested, should this be done separately or should be done altogether. But I'm not sure the shop who will re-build my trany know how to install transmission cooler and in-line filter. I guess those things should help with new re-built trany in long run.
  • The recommended cooler, a Hayden unit, costs $65 at Pep Boys. The Magnefine filter is $16 plus shipping. If you're handy you can do it yourself with a few feet of 3/8" ID rubber hose, a few hose clamps, and a half dozen stainless steel zip ties. Give yourself 2 hours for the install.

    If you are not so handy but have a good mechanic, buy the parts and ask them to install them. I expect a pro to be able to do it in an hour, roughly $75 depending on where you live.

    My transmission, which I am rebuilding myself, will be finished tomorrow. Once installed I will be sure to let everyone know the outcome, even if I end up with egg on my face. I'll spend about $800 on parts (including $150 for bearings) and another $700 or so for my mechanic to do the removal and install.

    For what it's worth, I'd do it again in a second. Honestly, the transmission isn't that bad. If you stay organized and clean someone with average mechanical ability and a morbid sense of curiosity can pull this off. I'm not kidding.

    I'll keep you all posted.
  • Our '01 Ody transmission just failed completely... and fast. Honda Dealer just put the first replacement (thanks goodness under extended warrantee) in 2.5 years ago and less than 20K miles ago. Had it towed to dealer and they wanted $5000 for rebuilt transmission. YIKES. Had it towed the next day to AAMCO. It's going to take a week, but only $2400. I can't believe this is happening. I bought a TOL Honda back then because I could keep it for 100K+ miles. Now I'm terrified to keep it. Less than 20,000 on a Honda dealer-installed transmission? And they claim no responsibility. Is anyone working on a class action lawsuit? I'd like to get rid of it while it's working and get a new Odyssey, but hate to give Honda a sale after this mess.
  • I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 147K miles and the check engine light came on about three months ago. I tried buying a new gas cap and using premium fuel, but neither worked. I took it to the Honda dealership for a diagnosis and they came back with codes P0740 and P1259. They said I needed a new transmission and Vtec sensor. They wanted to charge me $5,400 which is more than the value of the vehicle, so I decided to get a second opinion.

    I received a couple of recommendations to go to a transmission place not to far from my home. They got the same codes but recommended that I they replace the 3rd gear pressure component and do a transmission flush for $250. It took one hour.

    That was 4 days ago and no check engine light so far. They said they see a lot of Hondas (mostly Accords) and were surprised that I made it to 147K miles. They also said that in most cases this fix works, but if it doesn't they would credit me the $250 and fix my transmission for $3000.

    Hope this helps,

  • I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 147K miles. The check engine light came on so I tried premium gas and a new gas cap. Neither worked. I then took the car to the dealership for a diagnosis. They said the car came up with the codes P0740 and P1259. They told me I needed a new transmission and Vtec sensor for about $5,200. I decided to get a second opinion.

    I then took my car to a transimission shop that was recommended to me. They ran the diagnosis and found the same codes. Their recommendation was to replace the 3rd gear pressure component and conduct a transmission flush for $250. That was four days ago and the check engine light is still off. They said they see a lot of Hondas (mostly Accords) and were surprised that I made it to 147K miles. They also said in most cases this fix works and no transmission in needed. I will post again if my check engine light comes back on.

    Hope this helps,
  • jmnygaardjmnygaard Posts: 48
    edited September 2010
    I have a 2002 EXL with 126,000 miles on it. Last January, I started having problems going uphill. The van seemed to lose power. A couple of times, I had to restart it. Luckily, that only happened in parking lots or I could have been killed. I drive a major hill to work and that's where I seemed to have the most problems. The first time it happened, I drove it directly to the local repair shop. They couldn't find anything wrong with it. I only had this problem sporatically, usually when it was cold, right after I first started the van. In March, I got the name of a friend's mechanic. When I called him about it, he thought it might be the fuel pump relay and told me to check with the dealer to find out if it was one of the year's covered under a recall for that issue. (It's not.) I found many message boards where Ody owners were having the same problems going uphill and blaming either the fuel pump relay or the EGR valve.

    So, a couple of times last week, the van started racing on acceleration, RPM's to red. Then, this past Sunday, I was going downhill on the highway when the check engine light came on and the "D" began flashing. It felt like I couldn't get the van to go. I made it up the major hill to the next exit, then drove it to the repair shop. They did the diagnostics Monday and said the error code showed the #1 and #2 selenoid needed to be replaced. They did that, the check engine light went out, and the diagnostics said the problem was fixed. The mechanic drove it, though, and said it was still "freewheeling," (The way he describes freewheeling seems to me like the problem I've been having with the van since January.) Anyway, now he wants to charge me $4000 for a rebuilt transmission.

    My question is, if the computer says the error code was fixed by replacing the selenoids, do I really need a new transmission, or could the remaining problem really be the fuel pump relay? I don't want to pay for a new tranny and still have the same problem with the van. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,170
    are not an exact science. They basically tell you which area the problem was in (by getting a reading outside of spec), not that it is specifically that part in all cases.

    can't say about this particular problem, but it is possible for a failure at one place can show up as an error code downstream.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • It sounds to me liked you've smoked a clutch. There is no error code for that. Symptoms of a burned or glazed clutch are just as you described (freewheeling, climbing engine revs without increase in speed, especially on a grade).

    Unfortunately there is no fix except to replace the clutches (and steels) as part of a rebuild. There is no magic sauce that you can add. The damage is done.

    Are you using a transmission cooler? I think they should be required on these vans. Have one added when you do the rebuild. Hayden makes a good unit for about $70.
  • My 2001 Odyssey, 104K miles, is in the local tranny shop for a complete rebuild. This will be tranny #4. Lynnwood Honda (WA) said it would cost $3800; the local shop said $2600. Apparently the dealer sends the rebuilds to the same local shop (KC Martin), and pays $2600 itself. The dealership wouldn't offer me any discount, even though I've had my van serviced there since day 1.

    The mechanic at the local shop, who *only* works on Odysseys, and *only* owns Hondas himself, says it's absolutely necessary to change the transmission fluid every year. He also says that Honda won't tell you this, because that would be an admission of a problem. And of course the warranty and class-action lawsuit have just expired.

    Oh, and I was in the (small) shop with two other Odyssey owners. A pox on Honda.
  • Don't have the work done through Honda. Take it to the local mechanic. I would agree about the fluid change every year, if not more frequent than that. Also insist that a Hayden coller (or equivalent) be installed. Add a filter like a Magnefine as well, unless you want to put another transmission in a few years. And stop driving it like a race car.
  • Hi

    I have a 01 EX Odyssey with 74K miles on it. Honda Dealer performed a trans oil drain/fill 5 days ago. I noticed since then when engine is cold trans gets stuck from changing 1st to 2nd gear, after a while changes with big slip. This happens only when the engine is cold and I have to take it easy on accelerator until it changes to 2nd.

    This is 2nd trans which was replaced at 42 K in 2004. Is this a sign of another trans failure ? Should I contact the dealer/AH and check if it's still under warranty ?
  • Have it serviced again. There may be some gunk floating around in the 1-2 shift solenoid. Servicing the tranny only replaces 3 quarts of fluid, while the transmission might hold up to three times that amount.
  • Thanks pgnagel for your message, that's good info, and can't wait for your updates on your rebuilding. Hope all goes well.

    I'm not mechanic (just made my transmission fluid change but that's it) so I'm thinking to get cooler and in-line filter installation done by some shop. But I'd like to understand better before asking the shop to do it. Two specific questions:

    1. Does the new cooler replace the existing one or it's new add-on? I saw several types of Hayden transmission cooler on their website, I kind of confused what kind I should choose. Are they all fit or just specific one? Which part number are you using?
    2. I imagine the in-line filter placed outside the tranny, do you use any existing hose run through it, or how it goes? (I guess it can be put on hose connected to the cooler, am I right?)

    Again thanks a lot for your input!
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