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Pontiac Montana Heating / Cooling Problems

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Comments

  • spike99spike99 Posts: 239
    .

    As a suggestion, take your GM vehicle to your trusted auto shop and ask them to confirm your vehicle's "sound making" part. Sometimes, sound travels across attached items - which makes it hard to confirm the "core root" of the problem.

    Assuming the noise is from a "worn out" AC clutch, I'd get it fixed ASAP. We had a 2001 Sunfire that blew its AC clutch. While getting repaired, the auto tech showed me 3 other broken (worn out) GM AC clutches in their garbage can. Thus, proving that GM AC clutches are under built. Getting the vehicle's AC clutch fixed ensures "better" main belt alignment. Thus, lowering its risk of blowing a main belt. Especially if you travel in locations that lack road-side auto shops. Also... If replacing AC clutch, do get its main belt inspected / replaced (if needed) as well. Many auto techs like to replace both at the same time. Especially on older GM vehicles. Thus, do proactively "budget" for both critial item replacements.

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • thanks for your feedback.
    i read somewhere to spray some wd 40 on the clutch.
    i did so and the sound / rattle was gone.

    problem appears to be solved, should i still be concerned ?
    it's winter now, won't need the ac for 6 months.
  • Last week, the heater stopped blowing in my 1998 Pontiac Transport van when I start it using the (ProStart) remote control starter. The van starts fine with the remote, but the headlights and heater don't work until I actually go in the van and turn the key to on. The heater is left turned on the mddle blower setting all the time, so it isn't a problem that it got turned off previously. Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks for any help!
  • What did you use to access the lower thermostat housing bolt ?
    It is down behind the exhaust manifold pipe on my V6 3.4l.
  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    If you are not taking off the black crosspipe (that connects just over the thermostat into the throttle body) then it's a [non-permissible content removed]. I can't remember now but I think I took off the throttle body (because I was going to clean it anyway and replace the gasket - for fun) so it made it easier for me. Some places on the internet say that you can
    get a wrench in there... but I can't see how, it would be quite hard to do and I tried and couldn't. Even with the throttle body off and the cross pipe pulled out of the way its not a fun housing to get back on... Hope this helps !
  • mbettsmbetts Posts: 1
    I know it is cold outside (0 F),but after driving 30 min. it isn't getting very warm inside cabin .I ran van with heat on & it got a little warm & then the windows began to frost, so I turned it to defrost & it worked & then we were cold, so I had to keep going back & forth---we recently traveled 1000 miles to higher elevation & have returned,& noticed this problem.Any ideas before heading to a shop & hopefully not getting ripped off?? Oh, we have kept up with scheduled care & it has 109,000 miles on it.Thanks for the help
  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    If you read through my previous posts/solutions my bet is that your heater core is blocked. If you have rear heat and it works but the front does not produce heat then it is almost certain that is what is wrong. If you don't have rear heat to test then a heater core flush is the only way to know forsure... you may have a manifold gasket leak getting air into the coolant resulting in low coolant and thus low volume flow through the heater core... i'm no expert but these are my observations owning the van myself (2000) with rear heat. Good luck !
  • Hello,

    This is very simple. If you have heat for your passengers seated back and cold air in front, try this: 1) disconnect the auxiliaire pump; 2) disconnct the small pipe on the other side of the motor (approximately over the belt); 3) flush in both direction with your garden hose. When the water will be clear, replug both hoses, fill it up with antifreeze and VERY IMPORTANT open the two bloods to evacuate any air that have penetrated in the system, OTHERWISE the motor will overheat while the air in the defrost will still be cold. So, check very carefully the heating temperature in your dash.

    Last point: when blooding the systems (remember there are two blooders to open), it could take you from 5 to 15 minutes to have a final result i.e. only antifreeze comes out without any bubbling.

    Think environment, use a garbage can to keep liquid off the ground. The best way to do it is to first wet the floor. While doing this any antifreeze would be very easy to wash with water, otherwise your asphalt will keep good memories of your work...

    If this help you why not consider making a donation at one of your favorite caritative organization? It can only cost you a fraction of what a garage bill is able to do...

    Ciao!

    Denis
  • I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana that I am experiencing air flow problems when you move the Climate Control to HEAT. When it is on COLD, the air flow is fine, but when you move the controller to the heat setting, you hear the air deflecting and the air flow from any of the vents up front go to almost nothing. I am not sure what is wrong. The dealership wants almost $800.00 to take it apart.
  • The issue is with the remote starter and not your vehicle. Your car has two accessory wires and both need to be connected for the accessories to function properly. Most remote starters have 2 ignition and 1 accessory outputs and if they are not connected properly your heater will not work properly. If the remote starter used to activate the heater before, check the fuses for the remote starter itself and make sure none of them have blown.
  • We dont have REMOTE Starter on the van. Again I have good air flow when the climate control is to the COLD side. When you turn the climate control to HOT, the air flow drops to almost nothing. You hear the air blowing in the dashboard, but very little is coming out of the vents.....Neither the vents on the dash or the floor board.

    If there are wires not connected I have no idea where they would be. The only remotes we have are to lock and unlock the doors.
  • kry99kry99 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Pontiac Montana (not SV6). This winter I have noticed more than previous winters....when you run the defroster you get air, but it never gets very warm. You can change the front to the floor and get lots of hot air, change the front to the A/C vents and get lots of hot air. There is hot air in the back for the passengers. Only on defrost do you have air that never gets warm. When you switch to defrost you can hear the deflector change and you can put your hand up by the windshield and go from no air to plenty of air coming out...it is just not warm.
    Any ideas?
  • notaminivannotaminivan Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    Tell me it is not true that you have to pull the dash to change the struts.
  • armesarmes Posts: 32
    edited March 2010
    No it is not true. You can reach the strut mounting bolts from under the hood. The trick to it is that you must take the windshield wiper motor and wiper assemblies off of both sides. To do this you must do the following:

    1. Remove the wiper arm assemblies from both sides. They have a plastic cap which covers the actual nut. This just pops off with a screw driver. Then remove the plastic leaf guard that is under the wiper blades.

    2. Remove the 3 nuts that hold each wiper shaft assembly. The left one will drop out. the right one needs extra room.

    3. Remove the wiper motor assembly from the right side. I believe there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold it. Pull the motor assembly forward and drop the arm assembly down as you move it forward.

    4. You should now be able to access the 3 strut nuts.

    5. Remove 2 bolts from spindle assembly and pull strut down and out.

    6. Assemble is reverse of above.

    If you are just replaceing the strut tubes and not the whole assembly, you should think about changeing the strut bearing plates on top of the struts as they go bad usually before the strut tubes. If you feel and/or hear a poping/grinding noise while turning the wheels then the bearings are bad for sure.

    If you are replaceing the whole strut assembly, spring and all, then you get new bearings in the assembly.

    Sometimes it is best to have the alignment checked afterwards as you can disturb the alignment settings.

    Hope this helps you. :shades:
  • i was changin my thermostat and i took off the throttle body the air filter as well as the hose that runs between the two.needless to say after 3 hours of fighting with the thermostat housing i got it all back together except one thing. i think its the vacuum hose on the hose that runs between the throttle body and air filter. somehow i managed to dislodge the hose and now i dont know where to put it back at. i tried to fit my hand and feel for the hole but i dont have a clue where it goes can anyone help me please!!!
  • mailmail Posts: 10
    I did the same thing... look for my postings under kennie. Now I am not an expert and if my memory serves me right (I could be wrong however) I do remember that the plastic tube that fits into the slinky air duct... the tube slipped out of the back
    of block... it just sticks in... if you clib under the vehicle and look between the rear exhaust manifold (just above) I think I recall being able to see it. Good luck...
  • ok so here we go i have a 2000 pontiac montana that was overheating i turned on the heater and it was blowing cold air.i thought that was the thermostat that was bad so i changed it, still same problem. i then notice my coolant was pretty nasty with floaties that looked like some sort of stop leak so i flushed the system, still same problem. now im thinking the water pump but i dont know how to tell if that is the solution. the whole time it was overheating the cooling fans never kicked on so could it be something as simple as a relay or do i just change the water pump and go from there.im tellin you im gettin close to just throwin this van away.
  • sar781sar781 Posts: 3
    Someone please with knowledge help me, this vehicle has got a 3.4 lt engine, the check engine light is on, half my power has dissapeared, and theres a metalic screeching comes from underneath the vehicle when you give it gas. Also it wants to run hot because of this and I just had the plugs and wires replaced, oil changed ad new air filter put in. I replaced the fuel filter myself, that is good. Also when you give it gas you dont get much reaction from the engine, half of what its supposed to do, its got 153,419 miles on it, any suggestions????
  • armesarmes Posts: 32
    Did this problem start before or after the tune-up and oil change? :confuse:
  • sar781sar781 Posts: 3
    After the tune up, but right after I had the plugs and wires ect changed, everything run fine, its been gradually building up to this, last I checked the code reader from the dealership indicated something with the emission system ore something, cant remember.
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