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Buick Century Brakes

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Comments

  • Today I scuffed the brake shoes and drum with some sandpaper, blew the dust off and put back together. It fixed the problem. No more noises or brake locking up.

    Hope this helps someone else if they have the same problem.
  • I have a 1998 buick century custom. When I step on the brake my right side brake shakes, pulsates and pulls the car to the right. I have replace the brake pads rotor brake lines and calipers on both side. at 70 to 80 the car vibrate like I have a bad tire. had an alignment done and re balanced the tires did not work so, I bought 4 new tires. I have worn out the right front tire in less then 4,000 miles. everyone believe it the brakes on the ride side of the car. does anyone have an idea?
  • it the blower motor. I went a year spraying wd-40 into bottom of the blower motor. but then replaced with a used blower motor from salvage yard for 25 bucks. I am start to think Buicks don't like cold weather. good luck.
  • Have you checked the wheel bearing?? Describe the wear on the tire. Have you checked the proportioning valve for the abs?? Have you rotated rims or checked rims for damage?? (Bent) Do you hear a growling noise???
  • I thought it was a bad rim I did fine one rims that was bent so I replace it. but I did not have a brake issues with that rim as it was in the rear. the tire it worn on the outer edge both sides inner and outter side looked new in the middle. no noise. but I will check the proportioning valve on Abs.
  • I would seriously check out the wheel bearing. Also consider have codes on the ABS read to see if there are any present, may be helpful.
  • after checking and replacing brake rotor, brake pad, wheel bearing, tie rod ends ( right side only) and tires on my 1998 buick centreny because of a vibration and a brake that some times pulsated when braking hard. I also replace and up graded to brake rotors to a better quility rotor. I was checking the ride side of the car more because of the tire wear on the right side. I never looked at the tie rod end on the left side until I was was at the end of my rope. my brother and I start removing the front end to do a full rebuild.. the first part I remove on the left side of the car I notice the tie rod end was bad. so let this be a lesson to us all look at the left side of the car also even if everythin point to the right side.
  • In post # 23 you mentioned that pads, rotors, and brake lines and a wheel alignment were done to the vehicle. A bad tie rod end on the left side should have been noticed with the inspection of front prior to alignment by shop. I would have a discussion with the alignment shop as to why this was missed at that time and try and recoupe some expenses for the right tire wear and replacement.
  • post number 29, this is one of many question I have been asking the manager at fair town tire. I was told aligment and the tire wear is not covered because I did not have an aligment done. I showed them the paper work that an aliment was to be done. they don't have an answer for me. how did they not notice a bad tie rod during the front end agiliment? they said things can be over looked it was fine before the front end aligment was done on the car. I am still fight with them. if there is a town fair by you I would not go to them. all they will give me is 10% off my next purchase. I told them there will not be a next purchase.
  • A friend of mine was driving towards a stoplight and the brake pedal went to the floor on his 1996 Buick Century. Pumping gave only partial rear braking. He hobbled to my house (during which the brakes worked normally the whole way). We pulled the driver side tire and discovered that the fibrous finely woven tube cover (fiberglass?) to the extremely thin and fragile wire to ABS sensor looked burnt. Cutting it off we discovered the wires inside had shorted out. When we cleared the short and individually wrap insulated the wires, the ABS warning light then came on. A gravel skid test revealed no ABS at all. We found that dead shorting the wire to the sensor with a jumper wire will cause the ABS warning light to go out, but obviously disables the ABS. We replaced the sensor (which requires that the whole bearing/stud assembly to be replaced), and then the ABS light went out. A gravel skid test revealed the ABS working fine and he says the normal braking is now better too. Some research reveals that the ABS detects no tire turn during a skid and releases hydraulic pressure to the brakes until the tire is detected as turning. We think that when a short to the sensor occurs the sensor never detects the tire turning again and thus never stops bleeding fluid pass the brake (and the initial short may even set off the ABS without an actual skid occurring). Anyone having random near-total or total loss of brakes on this type of vehicle might do well to examine the wires and terminals leading to the ABS sensors - and replace suspicious units (we paid about $90 for a unit from a common auto parts chain). A gravel skid test might also reveal an ABS system not working even though there is no ABS warning light lit. Replacing the bearing/stud/ABS Sensor assembly is moderately hard. You have to remove the axle nut, the caliper and rotor, and the assembly’s three star drive cap screws (moderately rusted and hard to brake loose) - harder than a brake job, but easier than a CV Joint replacement.
  • max104max104 Posts: 4
    has anybody done a rear brake job on buick century? how in gods name do you hol all the drum break componets together, then try to put that big w spring on to clip into the shoes? is their a special tool for this? can some one show me it, and how to use it. thank you
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