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Honda Accord 2007 Maintenance and Repair

MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,700
edited March 10 in Honda
This topic is for 2007 Honda Accord owners and/or potential buyers to discuss issues related to maintenance and repair.


  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Should this not be lumped in with the 2003-2006 models, since they are basically the same? A lot of issues that would plague, say, a 2005 would be related to 2007 models too.
  • Yes we realize it's not a new generation, but we think, and so do most members, that it's a good idea not to let any one topic grow too large. The 2007 people don't really want to wade through problems with 2003 cars.

    So let's give it a shot and see how it goes for now, and thanks for your comments--we thought about that, too.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Ok, just curious. :-)
  • Has anyone experienced a problem with there steering locking up in the middle of a turn? I'd noticed my steering seize a few times in the parking lot, but today it happened when I was turning in the middle of a busy intersection. Very scary. I'd love to hear if others have experienced similar problems.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have a 2006 (mechanically the same as a 2007) and have never had this problem after over 14,000 miles. I'd go to the dealer promptly, or at least call them and schedule an appointment.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    There may be a powersteering oil pressure sensor which supplies a signal to the engine control computer when steering at slow vehicle speed to increase the engine RPM slightly to compensate for powersteering pump drag on the engine at low speeds. (Such was the case with my '96 Accord and my '03 Sonata has the same setup.) It sounds to me as though that powersteering oil pressure sensor has become disconnected or has failed. If that's the case (and it will take a trip to the dealership to precisely diagnose your car's actual problem), reconnecting the lead or replacing that sensor should remedy the problem. If I'm correct, you're not really losing steering control, but the momentary loss of power assist due to too low an engine speed will make it seem so.
  • I've got a '07 SE V6 and I have to admit I've been vroom-vrooming it all the place since I got it (I will calm down soon :cry: ). It only has about 300 miles on it so far, and I've had it up to 95 mph briefly plus several bouts of quick acceleration on the highway. I don't think I've done any harm so far, but what are the pointers you're supposed to follow, and for how many miles until "break-in"?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Basically, you are supposed to avoid the "vroom vrooming" until after 600 miles. The high-speed probably isn't a problem just cruising, since in fifth gear 90 MPH is only around 3,000 RPM. I don't think you should be taking it above 4,000 though. Check your owner's manual, it clearly states to "Avoid 'Jack-Rabbit' Starts" for the first 600 miles. If you can, reign in your right foot until after a few hundred more miles (I took things further and went a full 1,000 miles before really winding up my engine).
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Posts: 852
    ........If you can, reign in your right foot until after a few hundred more miles

    ...possibly incurring the wrath of a pc/permissive mod................(some of us really get off on clearspeak).....the expression - - grad - - be "rein in" (like a hoss)..

    seasons best, ez....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Forgive me - studying for these finals are about to fry my brain apparently. I'll likely be more coherent when they are through, at the end of the week.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Posts: 852
    ....agree. Been there., ez.. BS/San Jose State (bronze age)
  • I haven't been able to find the NUMBER of miles Honda recommends between oil changes in the manual. The minder system tells you 100%, 50%, 40%, etc.--but what is the actual number of miles at 100%? (I have an '07 V6 AT.)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    For V6, it used to be 3,750 (lots of stop and go, extreme temps) or 7,500 mi (lots of highway, temperate climate).

    Go by the minder, it can tell you better. There's a reason they no longer suggest going by mileage. The minder counts engine revolutions and knows pretty accurately when you should get an oil change.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "I've got a '07 SE V6 and I have to admit I've been vroom-vrooming it all the place since I got it..." ((

    Contratulations, Steve, Honda builds great motors, so, whatever premature bearing, cylinder bore, piston ring, camshaft, and crankshaft wear resulted from "run-it-like-ya'-stole-it" early use will most likely only be an expense burden for the next owner. One thing for certain - however you drive over the next 300 miles will have no effect on ultimate engine life. Most people, if they bother thinking about the subject at all, tend to fall into the mental trap of looking at run-in cautionaries as unpleasant interference to enjoying their new car. I look at run-in as my personal opportunity to finalize the full potential the automaker's engineers had in mind.
  • First, let me say that I probably exaggerated somewhat: I've run the engine to >4000rpm a total of maybe ten times, and never got near the red line, and probably never much over 5000rpm. And no fast starts from a dead stop. The nice part is I FEEL like I'm vroom-vrooming all around! :)

    Second, I'd like to make sure I understand what you said: Even though my vroom-vrooming may not affect engine longevity, it could have an effect on realizing the full power and smoothness potential of the drivetrain later on. Is that right?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    it could have an effect on realizing the full power and smoothness potential of the drivetrain later on. Is that right?

    Based on other reports, yes. It also affects your fuel economy potential.

    I can't say personally, since my grandmother broke in my old car (I got it at about 115,000 miles) and I carefully broke in my 2006 EX I-4 for the first 1,000 miles or so (under 3,500 RPM unless I had to rev to accelerate out of necessity.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Revving past 4K wasn't in your best interest, but as long as you didn't redline the motor yet, then at worst, little if any longterm harm done. Here on out during the remainder of Honda's nominal 600 mile run-in, vary your speeds to aid final piston ring seating. One way is to cruise on a rarely used stretch that allows vehicle speeds up to ~60 mph - start from about 30 mph and moderately accelerate (without forcing a downshift) on up to 60 mph, then remove your foot from the accelerator to let the car coast back down to 30 mph in gear, then repeat. Do that 12 or 15 times, and your rings have undergone sufficient forced pressure/vacuum loadings that they're pretty well squared to their bores*. An alternate and probably more entertaining method is find hilly terrain that will accomodate 45-50 mph speeds without forcing downshifting, set the cruise control somewhere in that speed range, and enjoy the ride. While the car won't be appreciably changing speed, the uphill sections will load the rings with pressure as fuel is burned while climbing and the downhill sections will vacuum load the rings while coasting on the descent. Ten minutes of that is long-life health tonic for a new motor. Sometime after 2K total miles, you have one final, important task to undertake - redline the motor with an all-out, grand acceleration run. Many people are unaware that connecting rods will stretch, if only immeasurably, when stressed with a run-up to redline. There's a danger that as the cylinders wear, and form a ledge near their top (inevitable, by the way) that if an early run up to redline never ocurred and the owner or next owner finds himself in a predicament in a high mileage car that requires all out engine effort, the top compression rings may slam into the ledge and break when that effort results in stretching the rods. When it's safe to do so after run-in, but before any measurable bore ledge has formed, stretch the rods - it's a one shot exercise and will have no effect other than preventing the trouble described above from ever happening in the future unless the engine is ever rebuilt.

    *New piston rings' peripheral surface, the one that contacts the cylinder bore, are lapped to a slight convexity (outward bulge). "Seating" the rings entails controlled wear to intentionally grind the rings with the bore, itself, to a flat surface square with the cylinder bores and smooth out the bores in the process. Cylinder bores are intentionally left "roughened" rather than finely milled just for this reason. The last finishing step in machining cylinder bores is to lower a rotating stone tool into each bore and oscillate it vertically to achieve a controlled depth, 60 degree, cross-hatch pattern to aid ring seating. Additionally, the cross-hatch pattern, though worn by many thousands of miles, will remain faintly visible for a very long time. That's intentional - even the extremely shallow depth of those lines still holds lubricating oil at the ready to minimize cylinder wall wear for cold startups.
  • Wow, now that's an answer! Thanks muchly. Going into a redline acceleration at 2000 miles will not be a "task"--it will be a pleasure!

    I've also brought this question up on VwVortex (The Car Lounge) and nobody has come up with an explanation remotely as detailed as yours. With you permission I would like to copy and paste this for their edification--crediting you of course (or not, as you wish). Let me know if that's OK. Thanks again.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Why don't you link them to ray_h1's post here? Copy and paste this link for them:
This discussion has been closed.