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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • jack87jack87 Posts: 1
    Came home backed up to the garage uphill & shut her down...next day she will crank but will not start...any ideas...no bus 5 seems to be in the mileage "window"
  • I have a 1996 JGC. Same problem. My car cranks but it will not start. This just happend this Monday morning. I drove it on Friday and let in my drive way over the weekend.
    My mechanic tried starting it up on neural but no luck.
    BTW: When I instered my key and none of my gauges will move.
    I have 145,000 miles on it.
  • My jeep has been down for 2 weeks with that exact same problem, i had the starter relay tested and it was good. I had the "No Bus" message in my odometer, and it would crank all day long, just no fire. Someone who looked at it told me it was the computer, have you heard anything else yet?
  • I have replaced the rotor, plugs, and wires, I have swapped out the ignition control module, and the distributor itself and they work in another jeep cherokee. All of the fusible links were tested and work. We also swapped out the main computer and it works in the other jeep. Does anybody have an idea of why it won't spark? Thank you
  • Hello,

    I have Cherokee jeep sport CDR 2003 with starting problem, it’s not possible to start the engine even, i try cranking attempts over 5 minutes with no result ( it’s not battery or starter problem the engine turn well ).

    But the engine run if i try to start with bushing the car (with 3 gearbox), it’s run will with good acceleration and i can go for many miles with no problems,but it did not run again if i stop the engine ,I changed fuel filter and recycle fuel cycle with no result , the car did not show any error message, any one here will have any idea where is the problem
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Cranks but no spark?

    Have ya'll checked your Crankshaft Position Sensor, located on the bellhousing just behind the driver's side of the head?

    LINK Procedure for checking Crank position sensor. LINK (Page is focused on RENIX / non-HO engines but CPS test is the same for HO or RENIX motors.)

    After that - check the CAMshaft position sensor, located in the distributor. You can LIKELY disregard this in the case of the above post where the distributor was swapped. (Unless the distributor was dropped into the motor out of time w/ the engine.)

    CAMshaft position sensor diagnostics.
  • Hi- Have you figured out this problem? I have a 1995 Sport w/ 145,000 miles- ran great until 2 weeks ago...now won't start and sitting in my driveway!! The4 mech thinks perhaps the ignition coil? My greatest fear, as per this message board is that 1 week ago I bought a 2000 version and today got a 'NO BUS' message!!!! I hope I am not going to have TWO jeeps that won't start!!
    HELP! ANY advice appreciated!
  • I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Limited with, what was thought to be a transmission problem - this was checked and there is nothing wrong with the transmission.

    The vehicle starts after a lengthy crank time - sometimes idles very fast - sometimes normal. Once in gear and driving, the vehicle shifts from a lower gear to a higher gear, without any reason, then when coming to a stop the engine stalls, will turn over and start but again after a lengthy crank time.

    I've been told that the computer needs to be replaced as the engine is not advancing properly - to take care of the crank, idle and stalling issues – (I cannot find a 1990 computer for this car – any ideas). But this shifting problem is very troublesome.

    Any ideas on or experience with either of these problems and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    change the tps first
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    There are several possibilities but let's hit the easy ones first:

    All are common issues & you may have a combo of them.

    Throttle Position Sensor, located on throttle body. Sends signal to ECU (computer) to control fuel injection, some tranny input. Relatively easy to replace and adjust but requires a $5 digital volt meter from Harbor Freight, etc to set the voltages correctly. (This is likely causing the wierd shifting issue.) These things go whacky too if the ground connection / connector is oxidized. Running a ground jumper wire helps that immensely. (As well as checking your engine's ground strap from rear,driver side of head to firewall)

    Tranny kickdown cable, goes from throttle body to transmission & has an easy to do adjustment (no tools required) but I'd have to dig up my FSM (factory service manual) to give ya the details. I'll post a 'how to' article on my Jeep website as this is a fairly common question.

    Idle Air Controller, located in throttle body regulates idle speed. Easy to remove, clean w/ carb cleaner & replace.

    Vacuum leaks are EASY to check for: With the engine running 'rough' (when it's misbehaving) you can use a windex style bottle filled with water to squirt along the intake / exhaust manifold area where it bolts to the head. It is a fairly common occurance for the manifold bolts studs to loosen up over time. Do NOT overtighten these! The studs (front most & rear most) are especially prone to snapping off! Torque sequence is posted on my site.

    Rather than post all the tiny details here - check out this page at my website for the throttle body & idle speed controller info.

    Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website - go to "On Site Tech" then "Engines" then "RENIX Sensors Diagnostics"

    HTH
  • Driving my jeep on the back lawn and it just stalled. Towed it to the garage put more gas in it and it cranked and fired but wouldn't stay running. Now it won't fire at all!!!! It's my toy and hasn't been driven much lately. :sick:
  • ukspudukspud Posts: 1
    Hi, whilst driving today the 'check gueage' light came on, I pulled over and checked oil, water, etc and found nothing wrong. Went to restart and car wouldn't start, it was turning over but not 'catching'.
    Called RAC and after checking everything thoroughly couldn't find the problem. His reprt said 'No initial fuel delivery, starts on easy-start. Fuel pump drawing 4a (ok).
    So the car will start with carb cleaner sprayed down hose but will not restart when engine turned off.
    Any ideas anyone???
  • Erratic shifting in my 1990 Laredo was the EGR valve: more specifically, the EGR back-pressure transducer, which I think is only used in 89-90. It's attached to the EGR valve when you buy one, and it won't let a vacuum to the EGR valve unless there is sufficient exhaust back-pressure. The diaphragm in mine was worn out, but not completely shot, causing the EGR valve to flutter rapidly, and somehow causing erratic shifting between 2-3 and 3-4, especially under load. Try disconnecting the little, short, 90 deg tube beneath the EGR transducer, where exhaust backpressure comes from, then drive and see if one or more of your problems gets better.
  • I have a 93 cherokee it only starts if I leave the key on for a few minutes, something clicks then I turn key all the way it starts most of the time . I hav'nt found the problem yet though.
  • I have a 1993 grand cherokee.I get no power to the coil or fuel pump.If I leave the key in the on position for a few minutes something clicks, then I turn the key all the way, it starts. can anyone help? ,please!
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Easy & free thing to check: Swap your relay under the hood - there are a couple of them that are identical & can be swapped as a quick 'check' for a bad relay. If that "fixes" it... then it's off to the parts store for a replacement of the bad one.
  • 1996 Jeep Cherokee 2WD- the car sometimes doesn't want to start (engine won't even turn). Sometimes you have to take the car out of gear and put back into park to get it to start. We've replaced the starter, but this appears not to be the problem. It is a hit and miss when this occurs, no common items to tie to a specific cause.
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Here's the top three suspects for ya:

    Neutral safety switch - moving gear selector is a clue for this one. Intermittent reverse light function is another possible (& rather typical) symptom. Switch can be removed and cleaned rather than replaced. Crown Automotive (online jeep parts seller) has them for about $110... which is about 1/2 stealership cost.) You can google for a 'how to' rebuild article or hit my website http://www.lunghd.com/ & look in the On Site or Off Site Tech indexes. Also a zip file download on my downloads page.

    Brake safety interlock - press brake pedal to allow engine to start. This one should have come standard on your XJ but was installed as a recall item on my older XJ. If switch goes bad - may not allow engine to start when brake pedal is depressed.

    Column ignition switch (not the key switch... but the electrical switch located on lower half, upper side of steering column.) Another "how to" download on my site. Switch is about $20 at NAPA auto parts.
  • It looks like a lot of problems are similar to mine, but thought i would throw mine out there too.

    My 99 Cherokee has been off and on. It will usually start on the first try, but when I get on the road it will die on me while I am driving. Most of the time I can put it in neutral and start it back up again while driving. Recently it has not been starting up as easily and I have to pull off to the side of the road for a while. when it starts, it starts like nothing is wrong. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong.

    Today, it didn't start back up and I had to have it towed. It sounds like from what i have read is that this could be the computer problem.

    :confuse: I don't know much about cars, but is this something that can be fixed easily myself. If not what kind of shop do you take it to for this kind of work?
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Standard Cherokee (XJ)?
    What size engine?

    Assuming a 4.0L inline six cylinder in an XJ:

    Suspect #1: Check your engine ground strap at rear of head. It is a braided metal strap that runs from the motor to a ground point on the upper driver side engine firewall. If it's frayed / broken it can cause all kinds of intermittant wierdness (stalling/stumbling/electrical issues). You can replace those with a generic battery cable from your local auto parts store.

    Suspect #2: Try checking the Crankshaft Position Sensor output with a digital volt meter. Crankshaft position sensor is located on bellhousing, just behind head, to driver side and is easily disconnected for testing with the small connector going to it. Removal and replacement is a royal pain in the butt but if you have a good set of tools can readily be done at home.

    Procedure is the same for all year 4.0L engines and can be found on my website's "RENIX Sensor's Diagnostics Page". ( http://www.lunghd.com - look in engine category of "On Site Tech") MOST other tests there will not apply to your HO engine as they have different sensors than the older RENIX engines.

    If discussing this with a mechanic, be aware that the ChryCo service procedures refer to this as a CKS (CRANK-shaft Position Sensor). It is also commonly referred to as a CPS but the CPS is actuallythe CAM-shaft Position Sensor which is located inside the "distributor" housing of 'most' 4.0L engines.

    There are other things that can cause similar issues... these are just the top two that come to mind. HTH
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