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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • The battery was replaced in Aug. last year. The battery has been tested and the alternator. I am starting to wonder if its my starter cause on every cold start, it ticks multiple times. I have to let go and try again 3 or more times before it slowly catches. I dont know anymore. This jeep is going to have to go!! I wish it would just completly break instead of leaving me in the guessing game!
  • roezroez Posts: 1
    After starting my Cherokee and letting it idle for 3-5 minutes, I turn it off. Trying to restart, it will crank, and with the help of pumping the gas it will finally turn over. If I let the truck rest for 10-15 minutes, it will start just fine. I'm thinking that it might be an electrical issue. If anyone has had this problem before please contact me.
    Thanks for the help
  • my jeep will stall while going down the road. sometimes it will start itself back up and sometimes i have to stop and start it. the check engine light does not come on and ive changed the fuel filter, the fuel pump relay, and even taken my fuel rail and injectors out and soaked them in sea foam. ive had people say it was the crankshaft positioning sensor, the "brain", and maybe even my fuel pump. can anyone help?
  • ehbuddyehbuddy Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Grand Cherokee with the Quadratrac Transmission.

    When I am at slow speeds (under 10 mph) and turn left or right at 3/4 or more steering wheel deflection (like pulling in and out of a parking space) the front end of the truck seems to 'bog' down. You get the impression that the tires are rubbing against the wheel wells but they are not.

    Is this normal or do I have an issue?
  • hat2214hat2214 Posts: 2
    The engine revs slightly while "coasting". no other problems with idle in park, only when driving. any ideas?
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    What do you mean by revs? What RPM's? In gear? Out of gear (manual tranny)?

    If auto tranny : Does it have pulsing rev & release while coasting down a grade or slowing down without braking? If so; = torque converter locking & unlocking - nothing to worry about.
  • hat2214hat2214 Posts: 2
    yes, auto tranny and it is like a pulsing but it does not slow down noticably anyway. the rpm is between 1 and 2 and goes up and down between them when in gear while coasting. thanks for the help
  • Hey everyone. It's been a while since being on here. After my episode of the battery being all corroded while on vacation, I immediately took it to Jeep to have them check it out. Sure enough the battery and wiring harness that goes to everything (the battery, alternator, fuses, etc.) was bad. They replaced both and I HAVEN'T HAD ONE PROBLEM SINCE!!! :) I probably just jinxed myself by saying that but oh well.

    I sure hope this may solve some of the problems for y'all. Good luck!

    After all that I've gone through with this Jeep hasn't put much faith in me that they are good cars. Not sure if I'll be getting another one when this one dies.
  • hey had the same problem on a 99. it ended up being a ecu problem. changed ecu and it works fine now..
  • sondra3sondra3 Posts: 33
    My 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo v6 has been in and out of the shop (dealer) for over a month with the same problem. Each time I bring it in they diagnose/fix something else and it comes back with the problem developing again. They are stumped - and I'm not sure what to do. The car has 85,000 miles. I don't have the "codes" I keep reading about here (I'm not a car techie), but here is the history, any help is appreciated.

    Symptoms: at around 65 mph (or 2000 rpm) I feel the car hesitate a little, and the rpm needle moves a bit weird. Over time (and multiple service visits) this started happening at lower and lower speeds (like 40 or 45, eventually). One time i was on the highway and it hesitated so much it stopped running (check engine light appeared), and I had it towed to the dealer (they paid the towing).

    Here are the things the dealer tested, diagnosed and replaced, over this time (in chronological order):
    1. Engine misfire - replace spark plugs and 02 sensor
    2. Fuel induction cleanup service - cleaned fuel rail, injectors, intake system & throttle body
    3. Found a short in the ignition coil - replaced coil, and fuel filter
    4. Replaced throttle position sensor
    5. Replaced PC module (main computer for engine)

    Here is some older regular service history too (in case it's helpful at all to know): Ignition tune-up, replaced brakes, add coolants, replace shocks, replace transmission fluid & filter, replace front pinion seal and flush brake fluids.

    Anyway the car is still hesitating at around 60 mph. Although it seems less severe and less frequent I'm scared to keep driving it and I don't know what to do. The dealer once even sent the car to an independent mechanic (he's the one who replaced the PC module) and hasn't been charging me any more for service.

  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    the first thing i would have done is change the battery
    have they done that?
  • sondra3sondra3 Posts: 33
    Hi, no, the battery was never mentioned. Could you explain why you would have done so? Thanks :)
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    jeeps are realy touchey on batt volts
    if have batt that is going bad alt puts out voltage that flucuates a lot and computers realy don't like that
  • volvoidvolvoid Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Cherokee w 69k miles; bought it at 62k, had complete 60k comprehensive service done, but still has somewhat rough idle in drive w brake on, worse under AC load. Neither dealer nor independent mechanic can find/fix problem. Dealer installed new ECM, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and coil pack(claiming all were bad -- at least computer was under warantee); still idles roughs so dealer's last/only advice was a can of injector/throttle body cleaner - am running that through now, to no apparent effect. Anybody have any ideas?
  • I have a 2001 JGCL and every week or so, when I go to start the car it doesn't fire at all. I noticed on the dash a symbol of a key with a circle around it and a hash line thru it. I looked in the manual and it is the key sensor for the security system. So, I assume that it is like a kill switch and the car isn't getting the signal. Then later I'll go back to the car, usually 24hrs later and it will start. Unfortunately, this happens at very inconvenient times and I can never tell when it will occur. Any thoughts?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    the key will light up when you first put the key in if it don,t light up then you get worried.
    the way it works is will let engine start and run for 1 2 min then shut it down then you cuss.
    if it turns over then you could have some wires loose the computer is on the left side behind the ac aculumater and water from that gets on the wires

    disconect your battery find the wire harness and wiggle it around if you are profishient you can unplug and replug a couple times and that will clean the contaces prob soulved
  • volvoidvolvoid Posts: 4
    Follow-up: Guess nobody out there has any ideas. Tried a new battery based on earlier query. Not a bit of difference - just another $100 sunk into this worthless moneypit. Should never have sold my 1979 AMC Wagoneer. It may have gotten single-digit gas mileage, but even with today's prices, I could have been feeding it premium for what I've sunk on its Chrystless counterpart -- and enjoyed a more reliable, classy and comfortable vehicle, with engineering that one can actual work on when something goes wrong.
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    So many people tack on their vehicle's issues to one thread that sometimes their questions sometimes get lost. Sorry no one has helped ya! I'll go back & look for your questions. (And I agree that the AMC Waggy's were fantastic! Gimme a 401 and room for a twin mattress in the back!) :shades:

    For the next person - unless ya are replying with a response / help to a previous post... it's time to start a new thread.
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Only does this when you have the brake applied??? Check the brake booster hose, or the booster itself for a vacuum leak.
  • papenpapen Posts: 11
    Brought my stalling Jeep 2006 (53,700 miles) into Jeep where they repaired the computer in 2006. Since then had loads of problems. Jeep running for twenty minutes when cooled down would start again. This has gone on for two years with jeeps comment; "We aren't getting this to stall". When they checked it out all seemed okay on the computer.
    Took it to get worked on (not Jeep) and they replaced the cam sensor and crank sensor then sent off the computer to be rebuilt ! Cost 350.00. They found 6 faults on the computer!!!!!!! The location of the computer was down below hoses to where leaks would affect the computer. Real close to the hoses from the radiator.
    What made the mechanic get the idea of rebuilding the computer was the ) meter reading that everything checked out okay. As I said they found 6 faults on the computer just placed in in 2006.
    The Jeep is running fine. Hasn't stalled once! Hope this helps? It has been a headache for two years and Jeep claiming everything fine. No lights on dash board, Jeep running.
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