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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • Last night I drove to the hospital and back with no prob. Parked the car and the next morning tried to start and it didn't want to. Turned key, engine turned over and didn't start. Tried again while giving gas and started up but all interior light dimmed and as soon as i let the gas pedal go car completely shut off. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 93 Cherokee that starts fine and runs fine, but occasionally the engine just cuts out without warning.

    It usually restarts right away, but sometimes takes several minutes.

    I just bought it, so I am not too familiar with it.

    Some of the gauges jump when I start it, but otherwise there aren't any obvious problems with the vehicle other than the locks need lubing.

    It has 125k miles on it.

    I bought it "as is", so I expected there might be a problem or two, but this particular one is obnoxious.

    The body is rough, but everything works EXCEPT for the stalling problem.

    HELP!!!!!!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    first i would clean my battery posts real good if battery looks like its real old change battery jeeps like steady volts from battery
  • I haven't looked under the hood yet, but I get the impression from reading some of the posts that it has something to do with the computer mounting.

    The battery works fine. I have no charging problems, and it cranks fine after the stall.

    Plus, there is no sputtering or anything like that when it stalls. The engine just stops dead, and I have to wait a little while before it will start again sometimes (sometimes hours).

    I am not getting any check engine lights except when I initially turn the key on.

    Is that perhaps an indication that the computer is history?

    There doesn't seem to be any other problems in the electrical system.

    The car cranks fine after stalling, and the problem acts every bit like a loose wire problem.

    Any other suggestions?
  • Interior lights dimming means a drag on the voltage caused by excessive current draw.

    Possible short in the starter, or the battery cables need to be checked. If the car is parked outside a lot, the connections at the battery tend to become corroded and act like a loose wire problem. Also, the engine grounding could have a similar problem if vehicle is parked outside.
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.


    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER



    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • alby3alby3 Posts: 46
    grand cherokee stalls or dies out.
    DO NOT KNOW IF IT WORKS FOR YOUR YEAR....

    1) CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU (ENGINE CONTROL UNIT) MAYBE CALLED THE PCU (POWERTRAIN CONTROL UNIT) ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FIREWALL. ON 1998 AND EARLIER THE 3 PLUGS SOMETIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.



    2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION.



    3) FOR 1999 AND LATER



    I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
    when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
    so far i have
    replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
    cleaned the throttle boddy free
    replaced the throttle position sensor $72
    replaced the idle air control sensor $132
    replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
    no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
    right on these parts....
    by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
    i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
    we will see when that comes.....

    IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... BEEN A WEEK.... SO FAR SO GOOD

    alan
  • I had the following symptoms:

    1. Vehicle would idle and run fine, but then the ignition would simply disconnect and the engine would die. No sputtering, just an ignition cutoff.

    2. Vehicle then wouldn't restart for hours, but would eventually.

    3. I found I could ground the engine block and get it to start.

    4. There was no "check engine" light.

    I took it to the local Jeep dealer and had a diagnostic run. They checked the crankcase sensor (the one that tells the engine when piston 1 should be firing), and it was bad. Replaced that for $300. Runs fine now, no stalls at all. Purrs like a mountain lion looking at a sheep.

    Don't mess with it.

    Take it to the Jeep dealer for a diagnostic.

    In the meantime, try grounding the engine block to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle. This might get you going for a short time.

    Hope this helps.
  • nj673nj673 Posts: 1
    Cherokee 1997 2.5 diesel limited 150k. Occasionaly blows the 30A fuse under the hood, any common electrical problems I should be looking for??
  • Need help real fast, I changed the serpentine belt because the old one came off. It didn't break and just came off! After changing it now the stupid jeep starts up but after 5 minutes it stalls and is hard to keep running! I read that it may be the crank sensor and that was located on the top of the bell housing " Duh" how am i supposed to change something i can't get to? I put it up on ramps located the wire on top of housing but cannot get my arm up to the wire and i certainly can't see how to get any kind of a wrench in there to change it lol. Please help me with any : answers? Also why did the belt come off in the first place? nothing was loosened when i checked! I did notice that the bottom crank pully looked like it had some gasket coming off it??????
  • I had a similar stalling problem with my Jeep. It did turn out to be the sensor.

    The symptoms of the problem were pretty clear:

    1. The Jeep would run for 5 minutes and just STOP DEAD (no sputtering, just an ignition cutoff);

    2. The Jeep would not turn over for several hours, but eventually did.

    Assuming that the problem was related to a charge buildup on the engine block (which appears to affect the time it both runs and the length of time it takes to restart it after a stall), I grounded the engine to the negative terminal of the battery and then to the side of the vehicle.

    The Jeep started and I was able to drive it for 20 minutes to get it fixed.

    The sensor cost $300, but I haven't had any problems with stalling or slow starting since, so it was well worth the price.

    Before, I couldn't drive the Jeep more than about 1/2 mile before it stalled.

    Try grounding the engine block, and at least you may be able to get it started. You can also try placing a jumper from a solid metal part of the engine to the negative terminal.

    Also, make sure the terminals on your battery are squeaky clean just for good measure.

    Good luck!
  • lunghdlunghd Posts: 61
    Check harmonic balancer if your belt flew off - they're notorious for flying off kilter when the rubber inner 'liner' rots away. After that - check the water pump shaft for wobble along with the other pulleys & idler (if present).

    CKS (crankshaft position sensor) isn't too bad to change once you've done it... first one I did, I supported the tranny crossmember w/ a floor jack & lowered the transmission crossmember (2 bolts & 2 studs) a couple of inches which gave me more room to get to the sensor. Just be careful not to snap a stud or bolt. They're metric if you end up having to replace them.

    If you don't want to do that, go to Harbor Freight - you can get a set of wobble extensions. Borrow a few more extensions if you need to - you can feed them up to the CKS and remove it without lowering the tranny.

    NAPA carries the CKS:

    Part Number MPE CSS980SB ECH CSS980
    Price 34.49 40.62

    Believe it or not, you can do it from up top but it's a royal pita to do.

    A quick check for the CKS when you stall out is to unplug it and replug it back in. Often, it will then start up. Reason being is the sensor is weak and when you unplug/replug you clean off a bit of the oxidation on the sensor connector allowing a slightly stronger signal to reach the computer. The computer depends on this (and camshaft position sensor) to determine top dead center (TDC) and a weak, or non-existant signal means the computer doesn't know when to fire the ignition.

    As mentioned in the above post - poor grounds can be a major cause of problems. On the RENIX based Cherokees (non-HO, 1990 & earlier) the connectors were quite frankly garbage and oxidized due to moisture infiltration over time. A ground jumper from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a common fix for other issues. The ground strap from engine head to firewall (driver side) often breaks or is left off when an engine is serviced and results in all kinds of gremlins. I HIGHLY suggest you replace it with a generic battery eye-to-eye ground strap. I also added another ground strap and upgraded the battery charging cables (seriously undersized from the factory).

    These engines are fairly bulletproof and will easily go 300k+ with decent maintenance.

    I have a RENIX diagnostics page on my Jeep website: http://www.lunghd.com as well as contact info if you have further questions.
  • nickflynnnickflynn Posts: 1
    Hi ... I've inherited a 98 4.0 Cherokee from my father ... which when cold starts and runs like a dream ... but as soon as it gets hot, it will stall and refuses to start again until it cools down completely (about 90 minutes).

    I've changes the plugs, checked the leads and coil, changes the battery ... but don't know what else to do.

    I want to keep the car because it was my dads, but can't afford to spend much cash on it ... can anyone help.
  • karmas22karmas22 Posts: 1
    Hi i have a 51 plate jeep grand cherokee V8 4.7 L petrol that has a few problems .
    1. Car struggles to cold star it will turn over but just can't quite fire.After about 6 attempt the car will start
    2. Once the car has started it runs rough and lumpy and will not rev .This rights itself and the car runs ok after about 30 seconds .
    3. If i stop the car then try to re-start while it is hot the car will not start at all !!

    We have tried new ECU etc coming to the end of our idears now please help !! :mad: :sick:
  • fan48fan48 Posts: 1
    y 96 cherokee country has developed a intermittent stall issue. I have no idea what to do. It will do fine most of the time at hwy speeds, ocasionally will sputter a little,but when it is acting up the most I will be in stop and go traffic or idoling at a traffic light.The rpm's will jump high then drop almost to nothing and it will stall out and shut off. When this happens it will start back up and after I get moving has reved high and spitts and sputters but usally will clear up and go on, I just replaced the fuel pump and still have the same issue. Any ideas, I have been reading that it could be the crank sensor.
  • mycar99mycar99 Posts: 2
    HI can you tell me where you ordered the rebuilt from please?
    I need to do same for mine and I was about trying autocomputersystems.com until I read their review somewhere on the net. They were careful not to include it on their site. http://fortlauderdale.citysearch.com/profile/2448438/davie_fl/auto_computer_exch- ange_inc.html
  • vader8vader8 Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 grand cherokee that will not idle after warming up. is there a sensor bad and where is it located?
  • eddyweddyw Posts: 1
    I have a 95' 4 banger cherokee. In the morning it runs great but after sitting in the sun all day it hesitate most of the drive home. It idles fine but has the issues when applying the gas. I changed the fuel filter, new plugs and wires, cap and roter, oil and filter. Basic matinace still can't figure it out. Any suggestions???
  • bvisockybvisocky Posts: 3
    I have been having the same problem. 2000 Cherokee Sport. Ran fine till I decided to clean the IAC motor/valve, pretty carboned up. Since then it has been a pain. Runs OK cold, and at high RPMs. Once the engine gets warm and sits a bit, it wont idle. I am not sure what is going on. I bought a new one and it is a bit better, I have been using the new and old to try and determine if the original has gone bad.

    Any ideas?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try a new throttle positioning censer
  • bvisockybvisocky Posts: 3
    Is there a way to test it? I hate throwing money at stuff to see if it may be the problem.
    I am fighting an A/C compressor that is the same way. Starts good runs a bit and then shuts clutch disconnects. Low and High pressure switches seem to test good.. UUGGGGhhh. This Jeep is getting under my skin!!!!
  • trover357trover357 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 1994 4.0 Cherokee. I was the crank sensor.....I hope this helps.....I don't know if this site will let me know your response, but my email is trover357@yahoo.com. Let me know if it works...... Vernon
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I don't know if this site will let me know your response, but my email is ...

    Exchanging information is what Forums are for and taking the discussion to email tends to defeat that purpose. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • shadow86shadow86 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 jeep cherokee and in the past few months my jeep has been acting up right after i start it up a few minutes later my jeep starts sputtering and feels like it is going to die and when i stop at a stop sign or stop light the rpms drop and i have to give it some gas so it wont die, but today i was driving and it was doing that stuff again and it just died and i havent been able to start it since, it turns over and all the electrical is still on it just doesnt start and i have no idea what is wrong with it. please let me know what is wrong
  • wkendmechanic1wkendmechanic1 Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    was driving and all of the sudden the car just died

    car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
    out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
    at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for

    I need help need to get to work and this is horse my friends some
  • Hey everyone im looking for some help with my 98 jeep Cherokee. i was parked and sitting and all of a sudden my Jeep went into this low idle, it had sounded like it had just got racing cams in it but clearly it didn't. So i popped my hood and listened to the motor and it just constantly sounds like it was sucking for air to stay on, what could be the problem?
    thank you
    Anthony
  • I have a 1996 Cherokee Sport with a 4.0 L engine. Car was running fine one moment then when I went to start it 20 minutes later it just turned over but wouldn’t kick in. No spark. So far I’ve change the crankshaft position sensor, the Powertrain control module (or ECM) with one from a reputable junk yard, the coil checked o.k. after I took it out and had it checked; the rotor cap appears fine. I don’t hear the fuel pump kick in like I believe I should when I turn the key on. Another thing I noticed that I don’t recall hearing before is the electric cooling fan runs when I turn the key on, which I thought is odd, since the engine’s cold. I checked the relays in the engine compartment and they all seem to be fine? Any thoughts? I think the only way I can check the PCM is to find someone with the same vehicle and swap out and see if their car runs, unless some has another idea.
  • mikeg63mikeg63 Posts: 1
    I've got a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, runs alright but here lately mainly going up mountains it will just quit, had it out yesterday and it quit twice. Went out this morning to take a look at it to see if I could see anything wrong with it and now it wont start. Tried a new starter and still nothing! What should I look for?
  • My son has a 93 ZJ and it too would just die for no reason. After some time we found out that the coil MUST have 300+ ohms or the computer shuts it down. After changing out the coil the rig has never died again. Hope this helps.
  • My son has a rolled 93 Grand Cherokee that he rolled. I have a friend interested in buying it for the power train. Can anyone tell me the differentials (i.e. Dana 30,44 etc) and axle ratios? Transfer case (i.e. Dana _ _) (Newprocess _ _ _). Or????
    The vin is 1J4GZY844PC56_ _ _ _.
    I know if's a 318 engine overdrive auto
    Thanks in advance for any info
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