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Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

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  • hall4schall4sc Posts: 1
    Hi I have an 01 Cherokee that is baffling my town mechanics. It stalls out when the idle is at 1,000 rpms. The oil gage has also started shooting up to 80 for no reason. The computer doesnt have any memory and sends the mechanics comp crazy. I have recently put a new battery in as well as a full tune up. The car had been sitting for a few months not driven in the desert. Drove great for a few weeks and then this. I dont want to spend a ton of money on a new computer when no one really knows WTH the problem is. Anybody had this happen. And what does a computer cost anyways. Thanks
  • The past few weeks, my Jeep will sputter when I first start it in the morning, then after 30-45 seconds, it will straighten up and be fine. It's also done it when I've started it when I leave work, or if I have to leave at night, pretty much anytime it sits for a couple hours. Also, when I roll forward (like waiting for someone to pass so I can turn left at a stoplight), it will sputter like it wants to die, and I have to give it gas. We changed my spark plugs, my distributor cap, cleaned the MAF sensor, and nothing has helped. I thought it could be bad gas, but I have a new tank of gas from a different gas station, and I put a can of Sea Foam in it. We really don't know where to go from here, so if anyone has ANY suggestions, PLEASE let me know!! Also on a different subject, my jeep will hang back sometimes when it shifts into the next gear. I'll have my foot on the gas when I'm pulling out of a parking lot (for instance), and it'll hang back, and then all of a sudden it will kick in. It also feels like it's shifting kind of hard...I'm really hoping that my transmission isn't going out on me. I just rolled over 160,000 miles on it. I don't really know what the upper limit is on jeep mileage, but I'm afraid I'm getting to that point. If anyone has any ideas about any of the above issues, I'd really appreciate it. Thank you!!
  • I have a 1990 Jeep XJ, when I slightly press the accelerator the engine sputters and stalls on me. For instance, when im in a traffic jam and I creep forward, it often stalls. It also does it in reverse. The only way to avoid it is by accelerating quickly; I can manage doing this if im moving forward but it doesn't seem like a great idea to floor it while backing out of a parking space (if you could imagine). I was thinking it could be the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump sock is full of crud. I recently had the fuel system cleaned (including injectors) and replaced the fuel filter. Has anyone else had the same issue corrected, and knows the culprit?
  • It is possible that the connections on the computer have gotten dirty,take battery cable off then remove plug to computer check and spray with contact cleaner.Replace plug and put battery cable back on. Hopefully this will fix your problem.I had similar problem on a cherokee.
  • When I start up my jeep and put it in drive and start going the engine seems sluggish and i can press the peddle down as hard as possible but it doesn't want to accelerate until a few seconds later. After it gets going it doesnt do that anymore its only on start up. I dont know if it would be my plugs or not. Any help would be nice so I can get this problem marked off the list. thank you
  • Your diff's should be a 30 front and 44 rear, pretty standard on grand cherokees however they sometimes changed those, look on the pumpkin of the diff's for a tag. it should be stamped with the modle of the diff and the ratio. the ratio's will be identical on both axles.
  • This sounds like it might be your Idle Air Control Valve.
  • i am having teh exact same problems, when i start mine its starts rough, i changed distributor, spark plugs/wirs, induction coil, it reading the fuel pressure is good so its not a clogged filter. i used seam foam twice thinking maybe water or pollutants in the tank and nothing has worked. did you ever get the problem straightened out? if so what did you do. so far this week it has died on my twice when accelerationg from a stop. mechanics near my house cant find any reason it shouldnt work
  • Sorry it took so long, but yes, it seems like we got the problem straightened out. My issue ended up being spark plug wires. However, I had been having the stalling and sputtering issues for awhile, and it ended up causing the guts of my catalytic converter to...disintegrate basically. And that in turn messed up my muffler, which ended up causing me to have to replace my tailpipe because the new muffler didn't work with the tailpipe that I had. We also had to change my distributor cap, spark plugs (3 times in like 2 months...) fuel filter, fuel pump, downstream O2 sensor, cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the MAF sensor...it seems like I'm missing some stuff. But anyway, we did a whole lot to it when all was said and done. The problem was finally fixed once we replaced the spark plug wires. That's not to say that none of the other stuff that we replaced/cleaned/etc. had anything to do with the problem as well. All I can say is that it hasn't done it since we replaced the wires. Good luck with it! Believe me, I know how frustrating it is. I ended up spending over $500 in that time, just chasing parts...has your check engine light come on at all? I know mine was coming on if I was going up a really steep hill, and if I was pushing it to stay at say...55 mph. It would go off in the next day or so though...I also have a transmission leak, but I'm sure that has nothing to do with my original problem...Hope this helps!!
  • i have a 97 jeep grand cherokee laredo, well there are a few problems but the most recent and worrisome is that it now sputters like it is not getting enough fuel or is misfiring. it doesn't do this all the time but it usually happens in some degree. i thought it was bad gas but after running that out and refueling i am still having the same problem. it also will not stay going when i first start it up for the day i will usually have to keep the gas petal pushed in until it warms up a bit. i don't know if the two problems are related or not but i think it may be an o2 sensor causing it to sputter while driving. any suggestions?
  • mmm12mmm12 Posts: 4
    The problem started last week, the car was cranking but would not start.
    It finally started after we changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark plugs, Air filters, oil change(wires etc..), Coil, and Fuel pump. I believe the problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor but the Coil had a crack and I changed that also.

    Now it has a different problem, after driving for about 10 mins, the car starts stalling, and the RPM needle starts moving up and down. It's not surging. It feels like it's choking or not getting fuel.

    Yesterday, I changed the Throttle Position Sensor.
    The Catalytic Converter was rumbling for a couple of weeks, so I changed that also. Still the same problem - no progress. I hope it's not a trans problem, or I created a bigger problem by not changing the Catalytic Converter sooner.

    I would appreciate your help. Thanks.
  • Did you ever find out what was going on? I'm having the same problem right now.
  • mmm12mmm12 Posts: 4
    No luck. Very frustrating. The vehicle gave me 11 years, with only an a/c problem - until now... I hope I could fix it..
    Today we changed the idle control valve and cleaned the fuel injectors. Yesterday tested the solenoil by removing it to see how the car would run, it seemed fine. We removed the map sensor and things sounded worst so we put it back. Not sure if I should replace it and the o2 now. Just putting money in...
    Now, while it's on park and I put it on drive or reverse, the rpm starts working up and the engine starts making a funny noise - like low power.
    It seems to happen right after the engine warms up.
    I would appreciate any help..thanks
  • This may seem like a low tech solution to a seemingly high tech problem, but try securely grounding the engine block to the vehicle frame.

    I had a stalling problem with my Jeep and I couldn't get it to drive 5 minutes. I figured it was an open connection and grounded the engine block, and the vehicle worked at least long enough to get me to the repair shop where it turned out to be the piston 1 sensor.

    It appears, and this is just pure speculation, that a charge builds up on the engine block if the ground is not perfect, and eventually the high voltage and the engine block are at the same voltage. When this happens, nothing will seem to work right. Your Jeep uses a conventional ignition system, and this system will fail when the engine block becomes charged someone near the voltage differential in the battery. No tech will ever check for this, and even the process of checking for it may discharge the block sufficiently that the problem will disappear for a few minutes (like until you get into heavy traffic five blocks away).

    I would suggest trying this before spending the next kazillion dollars chasing a problem you may never find.

    It appears you have already hit the usual suspects.
  • mmm12mmm12 Posts: 4
    I Appreciate your help. I know, it adds up.
    I'm going to look into this tomorrow. I agree, it seems to be something simple..
    Today someone told me that the engine timing might be off.
    Thanks again.
  • Let me know how it turns out.

    I got the sensor problem solved right away, but there are still other ISMs on my Jeep that suggest a bad engine ground.

    I may permanently hardwire a shunt to the frame.
  • mmm12mmm12 Posts: 4
    Finally!!! It's running...knock on wood.. It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor.. I believe it was not positioned correctly the first time. I had someone else redo it and bingo.. it stalled a little in the beginning then stopped. he said the car needed to recalibrate itself because of all the parts that I changed and now it runs great...
    It's burning a lot of gas now, I'm averaging $20/day.
    I believe the problem might be that it's reving too high. The neighbours could hear my car running when it's warming up in the morning.
    I have to look into that now...
    Thanks for all your help..
  • utahgradutahgrad Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo, six cylinder. Just recently I've had the following issues. I noticed yesterday that when I went to start the car, it seemed as if the battery was dead. You could hear clicking. After a minute or so, this went away and the car would crant, just not start. I eventually pumped the throttle and it started rough...stall, repeat. After a few minutes, it stayed running, but only tacking about 400rpm. You could tell it just wanted to stall. Traffic lights, same thing. When you are traveling, there doesn't seem to be any issues. Any thoughts?
    I can tell you that I replaced the clock spring about three weeks ago along with the turn signal handle/headlights arm that attaches to the steering column. Not sure this is related.
  • joeogiojoeogio Posts: 1
    just replaced my water pump yesterday and now my jeep idles high after it warms up especially in park and sometimes idles low in drive any ideas what is causing this i havent had this problem before... note: when replacing my water pump i had to take the air box out and im pretty sure i got all of the vac hoses put back on and the big duct like hose that feeds into the air box has a tear in it and has since i owned it but never afected anything from what i can tell
  • i noticed over the weekend that my jeep has struggling starting. i think it may be the starter. it takes a few seconds to turnover. i'm having it checked out tomorrow but i'm thinking it could be the starter or the alternator. thoughts? i'm trying to let this truck survive until jan or feb of 2012. i've had it since 2000.
  • fuell06fuell06 Posts: 1
    My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee lurched back and forth a couple times like the engine was going to die, then went back to normal then lurched again. It happened a few separate times over the last three to four weeks. Any ideas on the cause?
  • utahgradutahgrad Posts: 3
    I really don't know but it may not hurt to disconnect the battery which should reset the computer. Try to eliminate the electronics. I'm no expert though.
  • cris69cris69 Posts: 1
    my 2000 jeep sport 4.0 doesnt want to run in overdrive? it shifts fine and runs fine in all gears but OD.Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • Hi everyone.

    I'm hoping you can help me figure out what is going on in my Jeep. A bit of history...Bought Jeep in 2003 and paid off in 2006. The only problems were high mileage (95,000 at purchase), a corroded battery terminal (replaced), and the (I suspect) Throttle Control Positioner is weak. Have taken very good care of care (oil changes, tune-ups, tires, etc) and it has neber really let me down.

    Until now.

    Something is causing a power drain and sucking brand new batteries dry in as little as 1 day or as slow as 2 weeks. I removed or disconeccted items such as my radio, power outlets, etc. I've checked every fuse incase something had blocked a fuse slot open. The alternator is fine and I cannot find any lose wiring or poor contacts.

    Any ideas? Is it possible for the solenoid to "hang" and cause the drain? How would i test it? Could it be something in the throttle control positioner since i keep putting of repairing it?

    Any ideas would be most appreciated. I have been diagnosed with severe COPD and my Dr. does not want me to work so i cannot afford a mechanic and i cannot afford a new car either 9this one is paid off, looks decent, and it's been good to me).

    Thanks to all of you.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,276
    Ok, My GC Laredo V8 is a 99 w/ 134,000k. It has had a lot off work done to it when I bought it in 2006-2007.

    When I start it it runs great cold. It only starts to run "lumpy" after it has fully warmed up and is running at low speeds. So,, at every stoplight, it wants to stall, almost does, and then when I come to a complete stop it recovers just-in-time (at about 200rpm where it is really shuddering ).

    It is not the trans, because it does it in neutral, with or w/o the O/D on. There is a check engine light that comes and goes.

    I have a fixed income and three kids. Can anyone save me some $$$ and give me some good advice on this?

    Thanks so much!

    -Chris

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • I've got a 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country 4.0L that's been sitting for a while with what I thought was a bad fuel pump... Here's the story.

    It started having issues starting, especially when it was cold. When it did run, it would often have trouble accelerating. Eventually it would just refuse to start for weeks on end, and then randomly start up again. Finally, after a month or so of not starting at all, I tried banging on the gas tank while my buddy cranked her, and she started. The mechanic I took it to confirmed that it was probably the fuel pump, but being that I didn't want to pay $500 for the job, I decided to do it myself.

    I dropped the tank, replaced the pump (correctly, to the best of my knowledge), and tried to start it again... Still wouldn't start. I checked the sparks, they were good; then checked the fuel pressure... none. So based on this information, the issue seems to be within the fuel system. I then replaced the fuel filter and the pump relay... Still nothing. So I started paying specific attention to the sound of the pump itself when I turn the car ON (not starting). From what I understand, it's supposed to make a sound for a few seconds, then stop. Mine only makes that sound for maybe half a second. And here's the funny thing. After like the second or third time I turn my car on and off, the pump stopped making the sound altogether...

    I thought maybe the auto shop gave me a faulty pump, so I exchanged it for a new one. After a reinstallation, the jeep STILL won't start... And the fuel pump makes the noise only every so often when I turn the key to ON, maybe less than half the time...

    So I'm thinking it may have something to do with the electrical system going to the pump itself... perhaps it's getting current but not enough? Anyway, I am absolutely stumped here... Can anybody help?

    Sorry for the long post, but thanks in advance
  • el33el33 Posts: 2
    My 99 4.0 cherokee is stalling out when I come to a stop, and is having trouble starting. I have to pump the gas at start other wise it wont start. I've replaced cap, plugs, rotor and wires which was no help. It is also idling very rough. If anyone has had this problem and was able to resolve please help.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,276
    edited September 2011
    Hey. I feel your pain. Is there a check engine light? If so, have you put it in the shop to have it diagnosed? My 99 Grand Cherokee has the V8, and may have a completely different problem than your straight-six.

    My truck was stalling at stoplights, and replacing the oxygen sensors fixed the problem. However, I was having no problems with it starting. How many miles does it have? Have you replaced the plugs? What other repairs have you had? Many times when you have symptoms like this it is the ECU (Engine computer), not a mechanical problem. I replaced my computer at 98k, and all of a sudden everything worked great again. :=)
    The computer was $200.00 on Ebay motors. It will cost you $1200 at the dealer. FYI
    Sorry, but you have to be just a little more specific due to the plethora of problems these trucks can have.
    :cry:
    -Chris

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • el33el33 Posts: 2
    That's petty much all the work I have had done I just bought the jeep a month ago and just started to have this problem. It has 210,000 miles on it. I'll try the oxygen sensor first and no the check engine light isn't on so I never took it to be placed on the computer to have it diagnosed.
  • I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee, 6 cylinder. It was running fine, then noticed at times it wasnt wanting to turn over, so i would turn ignition switch off, then try and it would crank. Friday, went to the store, fine, came out wouldnt crank. We replaced the ignition (with key) cranked up, ran fine for 2 days. this morning i get gas, turn off engine, want crank or turn over, the lights, horn, etc all work. the dash gages come on. but want crank. could it be the Ignition switch? If so, where is that located> in steering column or in hood? HELP !
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