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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2007+)

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Comments

  • pickyppickyp Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    We have a 2008 Santa Fe, bought new. Approximately once/twice a year, we have this same issue .... driving at moderate speed, suddenly lose power, pull to the side of the road, engine off, wait a minute, engine restarts fine. On 3 occasions we took it to the dealer and had them check it. No error codes, and they said 'your fuel cap must have been loose'. I have no idea what is going on with it and thought it must be isolated to our car. But if others are experiencing it, I would have thought it was potentially a VERY dangerous and serious defect. How many others are experiencing this I wonder?
  • obktobkt Posts: 35
    Does your gas cap click when tightening? Book says it should click at least twice when tightening. My 2010 cap doesn't click anymore, and although I haven't had the problem you mention, maybe I could if the cap loosens. Meant to tell them about it when I had my last service but forgot.
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    any changes made or is everything still stock? had any maintenance recently done or around the time it occurs?
  • srz948srz948 Posts: 63
    I have a 2008 Santa Fe Ltd. with dual auto climate control. The passenger side blows the correct temperature setting(warm) but the drivers side only blows cold no matter what the temp setting or mode. Still under warranty but can't get to a dealer soon. Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be. On Long Island, NY hit by Hurricane Sandy last week and a snowstorm last night.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,650
    Sounds like a stuck "blend door" (diverter door) or a defective actuator that works that door. So, basically, a flap that is not working and thus not directing the warm air where it should go.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • just reflectors... We bought ours new in 2003 and they never lit
  • Our Santa Fe had a similar problem, took it to the dealer twice, couldn't find prob. Third time the charm, back cylinder head needs to be pulled, all valves and lifters replaced. All under warranty!
  • How long ago did you have your problem ?

    Most 08's have been out of warranty for a couple of years.
  • Same problems with PASSENGER AIRBAG, GAS GUAGE SENSORS AND REAR DOOR LOCK. Things that still work on my dads 1969 volvo!! Love the car, hate the simple yet expensive to fix issues!
  • I just bought santa fe recently after driving home from the dealer, i parked the car in my drive way, on second day wont start. I also noticed a lost of power when driving, the engine is running but there is no response from the accelerator.The car was towed to hyundai but there was no error code on the system. They did so many cold start and the car started fine. I got the car back after a week with them on my way home lost of power to set off. I noticed that I have to put the gear in Neutral and rev the engine before the car will accelerate. I took the car to another garage same thing no code and they confirm it is not the gear box. Please, can anyone tell what the problem might be, because I love this car and I really want to enjoy driving it.
  • i have a 2011 hyundai santa fe 4cy and am having an increasing amount of this problem the longer i have this car. it has done this since i purchased the car new from the dealer. if i pull out in traffic from a dead stop, the car will hesitate and then i have to gun the acceralator to get the car to move forward to get out of incoming traffic. the dealership cannot duplicate the problem..any suggestions as to what could be the problem>>> thanks!
  • dz302dz302 Posts: 26
    It's that STUPID fly-by-wire accelerator pedal. Step on the pedal, wait 1/2 second, then the car goes. Bring back the MECHANICAL connection from pedal to throttle body.
  • Do you have an awd model? How.many miles does it have?
    The other member is correct about the drive by wire system. Especially on 4 cyl modes, dbw is very pronounce delay between throttle and the pedal sensor. Its not.much u.can .really,, besides get a v6 where more low torque is available. Another.issue u have against u is.the transmision, their units are very reluctant to downshifts, they are gear for economy.
    The curb weight of the santa fe is somewhere over 4700 lbs. For.a four.banger its a tall order to accomplish good of the line acceleration.
  • For my car I had all the same issues and it took my dealer a year to figure out the problem, and I ended up calling Hyundai Canada to get satisfaction. They replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. I would start there and see if you get a fix that way. It should be covered under warranty.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,589
    If you were recently denied auto warranty coverage for a surprising reason, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, January 9, 2013 to tell your story to a reporter.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • thanks for the reply but I am still unable to find solution to the problem. I have decided to record the problem on video and place it on youtube. I will be happy if someone can have a look and advise on what to do regarding the problem.
    Starting problem
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIlqUniswlU
    After starting the car starts to smoke. This is the smoking video..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf3T2YGkFGI
  • dz302dz302 Posts: 26
    You've got a blown head gasket or a blown intake gasket. I'd lean more toward the head gasket, however. Get it fixed right away!
    You'll destroy your engine if you don't repair it ASAP!
  • dnm712dnm712 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same trouble with my 6 month old 2012 Sante Fe, only 12,500 miles. It has been to the dealership 2x in 10 days and the only thing they've done is to reset the ECM, which has not resolved the issue. The first time I was driving about 45MPH the check engine light went on and within 2 minutes the car suddenly lost power, the accelerator would not work and I had to roll to the side of the road. The second time this happened I was driving around 60MPH and again suddenly dropped power and had to pull off the road. In both instances turning the car on and off about 2-3 times cleared the issue (though the check engine light stayed on for about a day following the incident). However, I was able to drive normally again.

    As you can imagine losing acceleration without warning is extremely dangerous and I'm concerned the next time it happens I could have a tractor trailer truck plow right over me...! The dealership cannot recreate the incident and doesn't know what the issue is. It seems like a lot of people are experiencing this issue, I don't understand how the dealership cannot know what the cause may be.

    PickyP, sea2sea, or anyone else with this problem: did you ever figure out what caused the issue, and how was it resolved?
  • omar6575omar6575 Posts: 24
    the situation you are experiencing is called (lymp mode) this condition occurs whenever the is a lost of connection between any of the systems that control engine rpm ( pedal sensor, throttle position sensor, map Sensor, if you have an AWD model, the all wheel drive coupler in the rear of the truck, ) this cars are equipped with a CAN Protocol ( control area network ) all systems in the car communicate with one another in other to provide safety ( ESC and ABS systems) engine management (fuel trim and timing) transmission logic (adaptive learning program) you need to have the dealer do a FREEZE FRAME CHECK on your onboard computer, to me personally I think its your Throttle position sensor that's defective, remember this car has a drive by wire system, hope this helps.
  • Dealer says "both rear marker lights are out". I checked and they are out when headlight are on. Brake and turn signaI lights work. I am concerned that both "markers" are out for reasons other that worn out bulb. Owner's Manual tells how to replace bulb, and I want to do that myself, but no info on which bulb(s) to buy. Only non-Hyundai electrical on Santa Fe is trailer wiring harness , which is working fine, or so I observe. Dealer wants $56 to replace both bulbs. Any advice on this will be much appreciated.
  • etguyetguy Posts: 3
    Yes,same car,been there, done that. It was a royal pain.The floats move a wiper that is several little spring wires ,like a little brush that ride over contacts on a printed circuit board. They wear out and break off and you get flakey gas gauge readings. There is one on the left mounted on the fuel pump and one on the right called the remote sender. they're wired in series so you end up pulling both to see which one is bad. The brush is part of the float arm pivot and snaps right off but not available separately;they make you buy the whole float and sensor assembly for almost $100. Left and right are different part numbers. To get the senders out you need a ring removal tool made by OTC that goes for $60 and even more from 2 other brands that OTC's parent company,SPX owns. This tool also fits various GM, Mopar and others. You have to pull the back seat that is screwed to the floor with self tapping screws. When the screws come out metal from the floor is often in the threads. Clean the bolts and run a thread cleaning tap ,not a cutting tap through the holes before reinstalling the seat or it can get nasty. Guess how I know. You also need a fuel line disconnect tool when you're playing in gas to get the senders out. After you flip back the rug access flaps there is a plate over hole in the floor stuck down with putty. Pry off and they will stick back down when finished-no problem. The job is not brain surgery but it is time consuming,expensive and messy. I think I'd want $500 to do it.
  • gunga64gunga64 Posts: 271
    Do not get Nexen tires, they wear out fast, for a little more money I would look at a BF Goodrich, Yokohama, or Michelin.

    I have the Nexen, as well as had an alignment done twice for the two and half years I have had the tires and they wear out fast and uneven. Now one set is out of round.

    I think you will be happy with any of these three brands above.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My fiance has Nexen Tires on her 2007 GLS (16" alloys, not the bigger wheels on SE/Limited models) and after 43,000 miles she has plenty of treadlife left, with no real stress showing on the sidewalls. They are rotated every 5,000 miles (at O/C intervals) and driven both in town and on highway trips. I would recommend Nexen tires based on this performance.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    edited July 2013
    Hi all, just want to share an experience that I have had with an 07 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) that might be able to help many others on here. If your 2nd gen Santa Fe have experience the following, this may apply to you:

    *flashing seat belt and batt dashboard warning light for no apparent reason
    *replacement battery does not exactly install properly

    For the flashing light, that indicates that there is a problem with the charging system with the on board computer, whether there is a dying battery or alternator problem (and let's hope it's the battery).

    When you go look for a replacement battery, many auto part stores and even the dealers will tell you, according to the manufacture, that the replacement battery is part number 124R. DO NOT buy/use it. 124R is approximately 1/4" shorter in height than the OEM (Korean made) battery. You will run into a problem connecting the positive terminal cable not being able to secure onto the positive post on the battery properly. It will give a bad fitting and led to a bad connection, and can and will create that flashing warning lights problems. Since basically no one in here will carry the Korean made battery, your likely alternative should be part number 24F with the battery height that is exactly 232mm. Or if you can find a 124R that hasa battery height of 232mm, that would be excellent, but according to all the stores that I have looked, all 124R are 225mm in height.

    After installing the battery, start the car, run on P for 2 mins, run on D (with your foot on the brake) for 2 mins, run on P with max AC for 2 mins, then run on D (with your foot on the brake) with max AC for 2 mins. Turn off engine. Turn on engine, and don't care how you accomplish this, but with the car in D, press and release the brake for approximately 25 to 30 times (drive around town?). The flashing warning light will be magically gone.

    I am not a certified mechanic, so do this at your own risk. Hopefully this will help some of you frustrated Santa Fe owners.
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    uneven wear would not be the tires--- possibly problem with alignment and/or suspension/linkage. inside tread seems to wear out too soon on this vehicle... you would have to request for a specific camber to adjust for this in an alignment... most shops just get the camber within spec regardless of how different each tire's adjustment is. a tech who Is diligent and takes pride in their work will try to get them as close to identical as is called for for the vehicle. otherwise - the car is set up to wear the insides sooner than later. Sumitomo sport truck tires if you don't mind road noise have thicker tread and may last longer. Right now I have Firestone Destination LE2 - very quiet - have yet to see how long they last... a tech suggested to get the camber zeroed out all around - but clearly this will make the vehicle handle differently even if the tires last longer-- can't have everything...
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