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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor

Hello guys... I have a 99 Mercury Villager, and I read hundreds of posts about the knock sensor codes, but still could not get an answer to my question. Basically, my check engine light is on and I am getting error codes for a bad knock sebsor. The van is fine when its started, but within minutes you can feel intermittent puffs of exhaust at the tail pipe. I verified that all the spark plugs and injectors are good. The Hayes manual says that you can check the knock sensor by finding the KS sub-harness next to the intake manifold, but the manual only shows diagrams of the KS harness for models up to 1998. When I looked next to the manifold, there is a rectangular harness with several (about 40) wires going in one side and out the other. I am not sure if I am supposed to test the KS using the white white wire in that harness. Also, would I pierce the back end of the harness with a multipeter probe, or undo the harness, and connect to one of the ends?

Do you think it's worth spending the $500 to have it replaced?

Thanks a ton!!


  • Wow.... I remember the first time I took my villager into the pool ! LOL, sounds like you need a plumber ! sorry i couldnt be any help...
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    My '99 Quest service manual shows that it's a white wire going into terminal #64. It should read 2.5V DC at idle speed. A low or high voltage from the KC will be sent to the ECM and the book says to check either the harness connectors (for open or shorted circuit) or the knock sensor itself.

    There's another test about disconnecting the EMC harness connector, finding terminal 64 and checking the resistance between it and ground, and look for a 500-620 KΩ on your ohmmeter.

    I'll see if I can find my scanner and post the manual pages on my CarSpace page.

    Steve, Host
    SUVs and Speed Shop
  • I have a 1999 Villager w/200k miles. A great vehicle other than starting to loose power going up hills. I just changed fuel filters seems to help some. When accelerating slowly from a stop the van tends to lurch. I was told to check the catalytic converter. There appears to be the usual amount of exhaust. Any Suggestions?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    Maybe these scans from my Quest manual will work for your Villager:

    Album: 1999 Quest repair info

    Steve, Host
    SUVs and Speed Shop
  • Hi

    1999 villager estate w/ 75K miles. recent major svc incl fuel filter, belts, battery, and air filters.
    Our check engine light is on. It came on intermittantly then stayed on. Opened gas cap and it went gurgle gurgle gurgle and the light went out.
    It came back on yesterday (all the same tank of gas) and the
    local service station checked the codes this am.

    They want 750 to replace the knock sensor.

    Should be get a 2nd opinion? Maybe a nissan/merc dealer?


  • Wow, you could have been reading my mind with your question. I have done EXACTLY the same things you have done with my 99 Nissan Quest (they are the same vechicle).
    Our problems started when we had the engine changed out after the timing belt broke and trashed the original.
    I bought an OBD II computer to read the error codes and got knock sensor P0325 which will NOT trip the check engine light, and the occasional cylinder misfire P0360 which will.
    I looked at the manual to see how to change out the sensor, and found that it is a joke. You have to basicly take apart the top of your engine. To have a shop do it is tremendously expensive due to the man hours involved....Still..I would do it if I knew it would solve the problem. My understanding is that it probably won"t. Knock sensors themselves are very simple devices, basicly a microphone that hears the sounds of detonation, and then sends a small voltage to the ECM and retards the timing...
    Many things can 'set off' the knock sensor, and by the number of posts on this subject it is likely that we all have good sensors, and bad whatevers...
    I went to and paid an expert 20 dollars for the information that some kind soul posted here by scanning the Manual...Thanks for that.
    I am going to trouble shoot the sensor circuit and see if the resistance and voltages are OK. I will tell you how this comes out.
    I will NOT replace the sensor, due to the high cost, until I know for sure that it is bad. As I have said, I suspect it is something else.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    Our problems started when we had the engine changed out after the timing belt broke and trashed the original.

    These are supposed to be non-interference engines; can you detail what happened and the mileage when your belt broke? Maybe we should move this to a timing belt discussion?


    Steve, Host
    SUVs and Speed Shop
  • So, i went to get the van after deciding that the local shop was in over its head and the light is out and the van drives fine. Ive got to make a trip to the airport this eve
    so i'll burn up some gas and see what happens.
    (and as an aside, the local service station crew charges us $73 for 'diagnostics and resetting codes)

    Guess we'll not be going back THERE in any hurry.
  • Hello guys...

    From all the advise I have gotten, after extensive research, I have decided that it's a better idea not to change the knock sensor. Along with the 500+ cost, you could have problems later on such as coolant leaks and overall engine issues since it is a pretty major surgery to the engine.

    Instead switch to premium gas, and have the codes erased. Also , make sure that all your injectors and plugs are good. You may just have a misfire due to a bad injector.

    Since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to help the engine deal with low octane gas causing premature detonation, you may be able to get around the issue by using premium gas.

    hope this helps...

    And thanks to all of you...I didn't know any of this stuff a few weeks ago.

    Good luck...
  • I have a 1995 Villager. My radiator fan burned up causing some of the wires to melt. A new (after market) fan has been installed but since the repair, none of my power windows work. The work was done by a friend and we're both baffled.
    There was a previous post about this exact problem and he never received a response. I'm a rural mail carrier and I have to have working windows. Any help would be greatly appreciated! :lemon:
  • #2069 of 2519 95 quest. Radiator fan and power windows stopped working by meshhomelife Sep 22, 2005 (7:26 pm)
    Bookmark | E-mail Msg
    The radiator fan blew a fuse and melted through the lead wires. When I stopped the car because it was getting hot, I couldnt roll up the windows. I replaced the fuse for the power windows but they still wont roll up. They dont seem to be connected in any way to the radiator fan motor. Do they possibly share a ground wire? The fan motor is shot. It costs 116 dollars from autozone. The dealer wants 340$. Does anyone think that these two problems are connected? The fuse for the windows did not blow, so i doubt that it has anything to do with the motor. The passenger side and driver side wont roll up. Does anyone know anything about this? The radiator fan looks easy, but does anyone know how to fix the windows?
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Hi, evanna,

    That post doesn't seem to have gotten any answers. You can try searching the posts here by typing words like "radiator fan", "windows", or "fuse" in the search box at the top of the group here: NIssan Quest.

    If you don't see a discussion here that fits your question, feel free to start a new discussion by clicking the "Add a Discussion" link in the group here: NIssan Quest



  • Anyone have any luck here. just bought a 2000 Villager, runs great, but does lack power uphill. I have watched all the posts and am at the crossroads of doing this myself. Thanks!
  • Hi,

    We had a similar issue. Local shop wanted $700 to replace the knock sensor. I said no. Meanwhile, the check engine light came and went (mostly my blushing bride drives this car). I got behind the wheel the other day and it felt and sounded like it was not firing on all cylinders.
    I checked the leads coming off the distributor and some of them were decidedly loose. They are a circular cylinder receptacle with a slightly smaller cylinder for the plug. I spread the plug a tiny bit with needle nose pliers and the connection became better and the check engine light went out and the engine seems to be firing on all cylinders.
    $700 indeed!
    Happy Holidays
  • Many Thanks. I have replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I bought a code reader and it pops an occasional P0325, but no check engine light. I really don't believe the ks is bad itself. Thanks!
  • dtoppdtopp Posts: 1
    I've spent some money trying to fix an odd problem with our Villager. We're not sure if the problem is fixed, simply because the problem doesn't seem to make sense to any of the mechanics who have worked on the car. I'm hoping someone here can shed some wisdom.

    Here's the situation: Family road trip along I-70. I'm getting warm and notice that the blower fan is not working. Naively, I think to myself that "it's probably a fuse; I'll check when we stop for gas." About 10 miles further down the road, I hear a "clunk" as if the cruise control had suddenly disengaged and the car starts to slow down.

    I press the gas pedal with the intention of getting back up to highway speed, but I get no response from the gas pedal. I do *not* get the high pitch whine of an engine revving in neutral. It simply does not respond.

    The car continues to slow down, but the needle on the speedometer slowly rises (70 mph is about 1 o'clock on the speedometer -- the needle slowly "fell" to the maximum speed, at about the 5 o'clock position on the dial).

    I gradually coast to a stop and shut everything down. After muttering a few words and eye balling the distance to the closest exit, I decide to try to start it up again.

    It starts like a charm; and, everything works. The blower fan is blowing. The car responds to the gas pedal and moves forward.

    I then drove the vehicle to the next town (about 45 miles) and consulted with a couple of mechanics. After carefully explaining to me that we were chasing a ghost, they recommended that we replace the speed sensor.

    We did replace the speed sensor. And at this point, we've driven the car another 1000 miles or so without incident.

    But I no longer have confidence in the car. I'm not sure that we really fixed the problem. What do you all think?

  • nicsunnicsun Posts: 2
    Hello. I have a 99 Nissan Quest with a few issues. The speedo use to bounce all over the place and now it is not working (along with odometer and cruise control). The check engine light is on and the obdII codes come up as speed sensor and knock sensor. As well the o/d light flashes at start up for a few seconds. I have seen many others with the same problem on this and other forums, however I have not come across what the problem is, or the solution. Just wondering if anyone has come across this as well. Thanks
  • flight205flight205 Posts: 1
    I have issue with my engine. two codes came out P1447 and P0325. I quess the knock sensor isn't the problem, because it detects that there is an engine issue. When i drive the car on cruise controle the would pull back and surge forward. Feels really weird. Cannot figure out what is going on. And this last week i noticed that when the engine is working on parking it goes from 1000-1500-2000 rpm without me doing anything like pressing the gas pedal. Can you help me figure this out.
  • warfaliniwarfalini Posts: 1
    I am dealing with the same issue on a 1994 villager. The speed sensor is bad, but mine is seized in the casing. I hope you don't have this problem! I am really struggling to get it out. I am looking for advise on this also. I have been fighting it for 5 hours and making no progress.
  • ddgiantddgiant Posts: 1
    I have noticed several peoples post on this now and I was wondering if any one actually has tried to replace there knock sensor. The reason I am asking, after looking at my engine, and the Hanes manual, and the images that have been posted on Steves carspace page, I think that it can easily be replaced with out pulling the intake manifolds (the main cost in the replacement)

    If I am looking at all of the photos correctly, this sensor is located between the top 3 spark plugs, and the lower 3 spark plugs. I am not sure if there was a change in the model just before the 1999 model or not, thus causing the manuals to be incorrect on what is req'd to change it out.

    Also I have found a web site that does sell the knock sensor, but it is showing 2 different ones, the first matches the one in Steves post, the other one matches the one that I think I am seeing in my van. Sensor&returnurl=null&dp=true&showdc=true#top

    Thanks for any advise any one has.
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