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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor



  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,983
    You might find some more info online using one of the links in the Online Repair Manuals. Try your local reference librarian to see if you can get access to Alldata or the EBSCO one.

    I don't know the build date of my Quest off-hand; maybe that's the difference in the parts though since the first one refers to a 9/1998 and up model?

    Steve, visiting host
  • svess6652svess6652 Posts: 2
    We have a 1995 Villager and are having some of the same problems. Paid 60 to have the codes read and the said O2 Sencor and Knock sencor. We replaced them as well as the fuel pump,fuel filter, Plugs, plug wires, dist. Cap and we still have the same problem loss of power going up hill, and it boggs down when you first start off. the computer only reads o2 and knock sencor problems. Please help I am running out of money and no one knows what to do? :sick:
  • Hi you may wanna check the ground wire to the onboard computer. I had this same problem with my 98 villager with 269000 kms. Iv paid to have changed cap/rotor, plugs/wires, coil, fuel filter catalitic convertor , still nothing worked. Took it to the ford dealer who changed the o2 sensor, still nothing, then a knock sensor, still nothing, then they got me a rental while they called the ford hotline, they found a loose ground wire on the computer, works great now.. Simptoms were ran good while cold, once it warmed up the engine sputtered/misfired and the rpm gauge would dance no power going uphill, terrible engine performance, hope this helps.
  • donnad1donnad1 Posts: 2
    Hi... I posted this under electrical, but I was looking under this thread and noticed others with speedo, etc. problems, so I decided to copy it to here.

    Hello. My problem/question is.... after I drive for a few miles, my speedometer, which is digital, registers the correct mph and then drops and jumps around to 0, 4, 0, 1, 3, etc. and the check engine light goes on and off intermittently.

    I haven't checked to see if the cruise goes out yet.

    There's a gas mileage indicator on the left side that will show, mpg, average mpg, miles left in tank, temperature, etc. and that will then read 7.7 mpg.... 0 mpg. Anyhow, the numbers go all haywire. The outside temp is okay.

    When I turn the vehicle off, start it up again, it's okay and registers correctly for a few miles and the indicator on the left shows the numbers correctly and is racking up the average mpg. Then it wacks out again.

    After I turn it off and put the key in the accessory position, nothing lights up.

    Is this all electrical, or can it be from a bad tranny sensor?

    This all happened when I left it at a Ford dealers on consignment. AND OF COURSE they are not responsible. I picked it up, started to drive it home, and the above happened.

    HELP, please. Thank you.
  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Hi, any advice on when 99 Mercury villager timing belt needs to be changed?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,983
    I have a '99 Quest which is supposed to be a twin of yours. 105,000 miles is the recommended interval for my Quest (link). Ford says 100,000, for your Villager. Everything I've read around here says it's a non-interference engine on this era Villager/Quest so I haven't changed mine yet at 119,000 miles.
  • dgeesedgeese Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a 1997 Villager with 130K on it. The van has been running fine until two days ago. I went out to start it and it spits, sputters, backfires and dies.

    Let me explain more. I turn the ignition key on and can here the fuel pump run for around 5 seconds (normal). I start the engine and it idles perfectly for about 5 to 8 seconds. It then starts to die off. Pressing the gas pedal only causes it to rev slightly and then it starts to spit and sputter and backfire and dies. If I start it and hold the gas pedal down it will rev up and then the rpms just drop off no matter how far I hold the pedal down.

    My brother-in-law-to-be came over and we pulled the knock sensor code by way of the flashing check engine code. (The check engine light never came on before this happened) After getting a Haynes book and following the testing procedure of tapping on the manifold and testing voltage change, it seems to be working but I cannot get and Ohm reading on it???? :mad:

    I have replaced the spark plug, distrib cap and rotor to no avail. :cry: Fuel pump replaced less than a year ago. :confuse: I also checked the Power Transistor (as the Haynes Book calls it)following the diagrams they provided. I calls for continuity between terminal A and B and no continuity between A and C. Well, I get no continuity between A and B or A and C but I get continuity between A and C. :P

    I hope this is not a boring read but I want to give as much information as I know. :blush:

    Can anyone lead me in any direction????
  • D geese,
    Did you ever figure this one out.
    I have a 95 murcury villager with a similar problem.
    The van runs great for 15-20 minutes, then when it is warm has no power, barely runs.....
    The problem started after I needed to jupstart the van, and then replace the battery.
    I have verified the following
    FUel pump and delivery is good.
    Checked the Spark at each plug,,,, all good, even when its running bad.( Still can be a timing problem.)
    Eliminated the catalytic converter,
    Thought the TPS was faulting took it off measured all of that, all checks ok, but on the van the voltage measurements don't match the Haynes book. So this might get replaced.
    and I am measuring the Power Transistor.
    I get the opposite results of what the Hayes manual says too.
    Positive terminal of Ohm meter to A and negative terminal of meter to Pin B I get an open circuit.
    Attach the negative probe to to teminal A and the positive terminal to C and I get a reading....
    Reverse the leads on last test and I do not get a reading, So i think there is some type of diode, that is in there that makes a difference in what terminal you probe with your meter neg or pos.

    Since my measurements did not match the Hayes book, I was pretty sure that this power transitor was failing. So I plan on getting a new one. But when I see that you question the Haynes book. I wonder if it is even bad.
    I guess when I get it I will carefully measure the new one and compare it to the old..... The Hayes book might not be correct??
    I saw another dicussion around grounding of the PCM....
    May try that this weekend.
  • Hi Graham666. Let me try to help you out. I have a 98 mer villager. I have spent thousands trying to fix this very same problem. Have a reputable mechanic or friend with automitive skills pull out your distuber. You will probably find.... Debri build up on your photo eye sensor on your distibutor. Just clean it up well and re-insert. And give it a good drive and see if that helps. Also remove your battey and replace your negative battey cable as it sits on the cable underneath and corossion builds up on it giving your cable "High Resistance". Hope this helps. E
  • E
    Thanks for the response, I think this is my last effort to fix this problem.
    I do most of my own mechanical work and was not afraid to look into the insides of this distributor, I may not have dug deep enough, because the insides of what I saw were very clean, I got as deep as seeing the timing wheel with the 360 slots in it and wiped it with a tissue. a very small amount of black came off but not a lot of stuff. the screws on the sensor looked like they were filled in with epoxy, so I left them alone. . As I mentioned in my previous note. There are no codes being stored in the computer. I suspected the Ignition module because my resistance measurements did not match the Haynes book reference. The book is wrong.or I am interpreting it incorrectly. I have all of the measurements written down from the new module if anyone needs a reference.. where they mention there should be open circuit, it is not and where you should have conductivity, it is open... So I went out and bought a new ignition module....Before I put it in I did the same exact resistance measurement on the new module. The new module measured very close to the old one, I put it in anyway and restarted the van...It runs great until the engine compartment reaches operating temperature.
    I had a small can of freeze spray and began to spray individual modules to try to isolate this problem. Well I ran out of spray. So I was getting pretty frustrated and grabbed the garden hose..Now I do not recommend spraying a hot engine with a garden hose, I did manage to trickle cold water over individual parts. Luckily I started right at the distributor. I already had new wires, rotor and Cap, so I was not to worried about getting water on them. I removed the plastic dust cover from the distributor, While the van was running, trickled cold water, very slowly over the distibutor and kept teting the throttle, When warm it would idle ok but would not run smoothly over 2000 rpm..I cooled the distributor until I could feel that the aluminum base was cold to the touch. When in that state the van runs perfectly. I allowed it to warm up again and verified this at least 6 times.
    So in a round about way I think I have determined that this distributor needs replacing. I just ordered an brand new one from a company on EBAY for $105, I will repost all of this in another posting if this solves the problem.
    I am glad others have shared their experiences on these forums. I have learned a lot about this van. My regular mechanic did not have the scan tools and told me he did not want to work on it. I I think if I get this running I have saved a lot of money. If this new distributor solves it I will have less than $150 and about 20-40 hours invested.
    I will let everyone know how I make out once I get the new part Thanks for your interest.
  • The symptoms your discribing is the exact same thing my van was doing. I have 275,000 kms on it. I have spent thousands from incompentant automotive techs from Canadian Wheel to fixorrepairdaily dealer. I have changed cap/rotor, wires/plugs and throttle body clean and injector flush, new coil, new catalitic convertor before i took it to foundonroaddead dealer who put on a new o2 sensor, finally they said lets do a diagonstic which found a knock sensor fault, 600 dollars later they had to call the f- hotline who told them to check for faulty grounds on ecm which seemed to work for a while. Took it back again and they said it was High Resistance on neg battery cable. Well after changing that it still wasnt right. Had to have it towed to a Nissan dealer (which i should have done in the first place) they said it was the distributor and it was just filth build up on it. They said it may happen again but i may get another year or two out of it. My symptoms were.... started up fine after reaching operating temperatures it started to buck and sputter/misfire with loss of power, rpm gauge would dance. Been one expensive lesson. hope this helps.
  • Your comments here make me feel pretty good that the replacement distributor is going to fix the problem, The van is going to end up being my kids vehicle.. it does have over 100,000 miles on it but form other owners I see that these engines will run until the body rusts out.
    I should be getting the new distributor next week. If this does solve the problem, I will post a very detailed description of all of the steps I took to determine and fix this problem. Hopefully our comments here can save the next person a lot of trouble. I did read another forum that warned me of going to a FORD dealership... Nissan dealership was strongly suggested. If I get away with these repairs only costing me $150 I will be real happy since I see what this could have cost me.
    If this does not fix the problem, you will see may 95 Mercury Villager :lemon: parts for sale....Including a new distributor and ignition module.
    If this solves my problem all I have left is to replace the 2 rear brake lines... and the kid has a real cool 7 passenger family van to call his own.
    I will let you know as soon as I get the new parts installed. Thanks for sharing the infomation
  • E, I finally got the new "Rebuilt" distributor, and that solved all of my problems. I found a company on EBAY that sells this rebuild for $105.... with no core charge.
    I will write up a detailed description of what I did and how I verified the bad distributor, by cooling it with water. I also want to point out that there may be a mistake in the Haynes Manual around the resistance measurement of the ignition module.
    I will get all of my facts straight and post it in a new thread.
    Thanks for participating in this forum.... all of this information led me to a much cheaper fix.
  • My CEL has been on for the past 6 months. Immediately after having the timing belt/water pump replaced the CEL came on. The codes returned were for the knock sensor and O2 sensor. I had the knock sensor and both front and rear O2 sensors replaced; the light came back on. Now the code that comes up is P1148 and an online search tells me this a "Closed Loop", but I can't find any more information than that.

    Any explanation of what this means (and what it is going to set me back) would be greatly appreciated.

  • Pull off your distibutor. And clean off the photo sensor on the distribor and re-install. Then disconnect the battery cables for half an hour and clean them and re-attach. See if this clears your mysterious codes. hope this helps.
  • I have read something from AUTO TAP about this "closed loop". It says that it is a sensor problem. A coolant temp sensor is used when the vehicle first starts up until it gets warm then the 02 sensor (Oxygen) takes over adjusting the fuel/air mixture, this is called a closed loop . Perhaps it may be the coolant temp sensor? hope this helps.
  • I realize this is an old message, but was it dirt debri on your photo eyes on the distributor? I had this very same problem.
  • Any Mercury villager owners pass the 300,000 km landmark ?
  • help please new batt./starter is OK how do u get to the alt.thanks
  • Before I would change out the alternator, Get the van running and check the charge voltage out of the alternator. If it is 13-14 volts, the alternator is good.
    Double check all of the connections at the battery and starter make sure they are clean and tight.
    Don't rule out a faulty new battery, I just helped a friend with a similar problem, he was going to change out the starter.... ended up his new battery, about a week old had a bad cell and would not keep a charge. If you have access to a different battery its worth a try to swap it out.
    If this is going dead over night, check to make sure there are no lights staying on, I had a glove box light that would draw a battery dead in 1 day.....

    If you do have to get to the alternator, I think My 95 was located behind a plastic cover behind the passenger front tire. from underneath.
    You will have to jack it up, put it on Jack stands, maybe remove the passenger tire then take the plastic cover off, From what I remember its not to bad to get to once you get under there.
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