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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor

135

Comments

  • amyhallamyhall Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 mercury villager, runs great but for awhile now its been stalling when warmed up,or going to stop, even in neutrol it stalls, no engine lights come on. fine when cold,diaystics came up with 2 error codes 1. knock sensor 2. buzz trans line. does any body have any ideas if its really the knock sensor?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,955
    It's not much of a data point, but when the knock sensor went on my '99 Quest, my check engine light came on. It ran ragged too, but wouldn't quite stall out. I wound up replacing it and 3 injectors. Not a cheap fix either - the knock sensor is buried pretty good and takes a lot of labor to get to it.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • ckent724ckent724 Posts: 5
    ignore the knock sensor code... That code is appearing because of the detonation in the engine as it begins to shutter and stall. the knock sensor monitors the engine for any detonations. If a detonation occurs the knock sensor sends a code to the computer. Also when the knock sensor recognizes a detonation and sends a signal to the computer, the computer will then try to adjust timing, etc...Need more info on the "buzz trans line" never heard of that before...Do you have the actual codes? Need more info...
  • lisa2009lisa2009 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 mercury villager estate and need to change EGR valve can you please tell me what line is supposed to connect to the very top of the gold piece?
  • radennisradennis Posts: 3
    my 99 villager doesn't stall but surges at a stop but not all the time some times turning on the a/c makes it stop but not all the time changed the plugs, plug wires, tps,disributor cap and rotor, had the codes checked only knock sensor came up but was reset fine now but van still surging runs fine when given gas and seems to shift ok, we also had to replace some motor mounts. any suggestions
  • svess6652svess6652 Posts: 2
    Ours was the fuel injectors?
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Posts: 62
    May i suggest reading back 2 years worth of comments, there is a differance between symptoms and causes. Villagers and Quests (older ones) are nortorius for bad distributors as they age. Read past posts.
  • joeallanjoeallan Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    We are having troubles with our 1999 Mercury Villager. It hesitates and bogs at acceleration, idles roughly while in gear and sometimes dies at intersections, and when in park has overall intermittent high idle. My husband has tested the KS sub-harness and believes that it is running at too high of voltage according to previous posts. The van is also using more fuel than it should. It is running a Knock Sensor/Circuit Fault code, which we have had cleared three times to check for reliability of the code. We are aware that the Knock Sensor code most often is not the actual problem.

    We have change the O2 sensors (both), the air filter, the fuel filter, the distributor, the rotor and cap, and the spark plugs and wires, if I'm not forgetting anything. We purchased the Haynes book, but nothing is really standing out right now as to the main issue could be.

    Right now we are considering checking grounds off of the computer, but are not sure where they would be located. We are also considering changing the negative battery cable. Any other leads or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • radennisradennis Posts: 3
    we have the same van for the last three months we've had very similar problems had a knock sensor code also. ours never died but started acting like it was'nt going to start would never do the surging or rough idle when we got to the shop almost as if it new what we were trying to do. we did how ever find out that it was the EGR valve. that it was sticking wide open when it got warm. the dealer no longer makes this part they do have some like at auto zone for about $167.00
    we also changed fuel filter,plugs,plug wires, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the Throttle position sensor.
    the guy thats going to fix the egr valve said it could have also been the fuel injectors or the fuel injectors needed to be cleaned and o rings replaced this is not the case with our van but that was his first possible diagnosis.
    if you go to church you might find someone with a mechanic shop or some one who can help. our church has a car ministry with mechanics that often do some side work which is a blessing. hope this helps
  • Do not ever replace a knock sensor. They can not cause any driveability problems. Other things cause the sesnor code to set
  • amb7amb7 Posts: 1
    snorkelbobby can you help or anyone else? I just purchased a knock sensor at Checkers for my 2000 Mercury Villager. I started having problems yesterday when the traffic was backed up. Lots of stalling, the van dieing on me, lots of hiccups and etc. I immed drove it to Goodyear and they ran a diagnostic and told me it was the knock sensor and that the intake manifold needs to be resealed, and a new valve cover gasket?
    I drove it again today and the van died six times and took a few attempts to start just driving a 1/4 mile. In between all of that I had a lot of close calls with it dieing. Like I said this all really began yesterday but for the past couple of weeks we would have a slight hestitation every now and then when driving.
  • ttiedettiede Posts: 1
    k so my van is the 95 villeger. it boggs out like it is running out of gas with a full tank all of this happens at normal running temp and some time i can get it to start back up while im moveing but more often than not it comepletely dies and when trying to start it will start then bog out shortly after it is giving me a big head ache i would like to take it to the salt flats to blow it ski high any suggetions?
  • Hey guys, I had the exact same issue with my '99 Villager. It would run fine at cold start up but as soon as it would warm up a bit, it would misfire, and chug at idle. It would smooth out somewhat under acceleration but the problem was always there. I tried a new cap, rotor, plugs, cleaned the optical sensor inside the distributor, new EGR valve, a couple of fuel injectors and it didn't help. At times, it would generate a check engine light (random miltiple misfire code) and when I would clear it, sometimes it wouldn't even generate a code for a while, however it would akways run rough. Anyway, it turned out to be the distributor! I pulled out the distributor and there were shavings all over the gear. I did some research and apparently they are known for failing. The heat tends to take a toll on the coil and knock sensor (which are both inside the distributor) and combined with the gear wear, it can cause a misfire code due to excess play. I put in a new distributor and the problem is finally gone and It runs good now! This problem plagued me for a couple of years and even a couple of dealerships couldn't find the problem. Buy one on eBay, because they are not cheap. It sounds like that is your problem as well.
  • I am looking for advice on how to replace the knock sensor on a 2001 Quest. I am hoping that someone can tell me how to replace it without removing the intake manifold.
  • Please look into this Further, normally you do not have to replace this part. This knock sensor is like a microphone...and is hard to get to and is on the block behind the intake maifold.. that detects detonation.
    If you have detonation it is caused by something else. I had similar problems with my 95 villager and it ended up being my distributor assembly, and there was no code for that. I saw another post saying the knock sensor was part of the distributor assembly, On my van it is not... it is a seperate sensor.
    I have read a bunch of these forums that say similar things. The knock sensor code is usually tripped by another problem. And by itself does not cuase you van to run bad.
  • You should not have to replace the knock sensor at all. 1 in a million go bad. Also there is no way to replace the sensor without removing the intake. It is mounted on the top side of the block under the lower intake manifold. Something is causing the knock sensor to trigger. When a code for the sensor is posted it is because the sensor was triggered, not because it was bad... There could be multiple areas that could cause this. Read through this topic and start to eliminate the possibilities.
  • Thanks for the reply on the knock sensor.

    The van is actually running fine. I have not noticed any missing, surging or stalling. I have noticed that my gas mileage has dropped a bit. The only known issue is the P0325 code that I have when a scanner is connected. This code will keep me from passing the local emissions test.

    Still think i should look beyond the actual sensor?

    Bob
  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Has 99 villager, runs great! until lately. Check engine light on. and noticable lower MPG. Went to shop for checking: replaced Oxygen and Knock sensors based on codes.
    Two weeks later, car runs rough at reverse gear and when you hit a brake.
    Any advice?
  • Thats a tough one. When the car is in reverse do you have your foot on the brake? If so the underlying issue is when the brakes are applied you get the rough idle. If the answer to my beginning question I would pursue a vacuum leak. The power booster sucks alot of vacuum. I first would look at the vacuum hose from the booster to the intake manifold. If that appears OK I would get a can of carb cleaner. With the vehicle running, spray all vacuum hoses. Be sure to get the vacuum hoses on the back of the motor. What you want to look for is a surge in the idle. Pay attention to where and what you spray. If you hit a hose with the cleaner and it surges that vacuum line has a leak. Dont forget to spray around the intake as well. Hope that finds it for you....
  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Thanks for the detail information ckent724!
    Some update from me.
    I opened up the air-filter compartment and used the air-cleaner-can try to blow clean the MAF sensor. Afterward, drove the car and feel (without brake) in reverse gear. Car was running rough. drive for ~6 miles and check-engine-light is on.
    Plan to read the obdii code today.
    Regards,
  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Got the code P0304 Cylinder#4 Misfiring.
    Will first try to replace the spark plug, then wire.
  • haughhaugh Posts: 12
    I had that problem (99 Villager Sport). My learning experience was placing my hand on the distributor and got a nice shock. I took a test lead cable with an alligator clip mounted to ground and placed the lead over each cap point. The one bad cable threw a spark across to the test lead. Replaced the entire set.

    My Villager also had rough idle problems (also showing knock sensor code) and after replacing distributor cap, spark plugs, checking cat, O2 sensor, vacuum leaks, it turned out to be the distributor (ordered on eBay from California). I also changed the fuel filter which also helped smooth hesitation and low RPM surging problems.
  • Hey guys, I had the same lingering issue with my Villager. I posted earlier that I ended up replacing the entire distributor even though that was a major problem but not entirely it. The distributor gear was worn but what it also turned out to be was the fuel injectors! Because I was getting cylinder #5 or #4 misfire, the check engine light would come on occassionally. Also don't be fooled by the knock sensor code. It's just telling you it's knocking because the fuel mixture is off. So I took it to a mechanic and he figured it out. The injectors were working but what I didn't realize is they were running too rich. The van would run great when it was cold, but as soon as it would warm up, it would idle rough, chug, and buck at lower speeds (around 25-35 mph especially when letting off the throttle). It would smooth out when I touch the gas but it would always return to a rough idle. The long and short of it is, check your injectors. The easiest way is to check (the front ones since you can get at them) with an ohm meter when it is cold. Then check them when it's warm after leting it run about 5-10 minutes. They should read 12-14 ohms warm or cold. If not, they're not functioning properly. Mine were all over the place, 6-18 ohms. They were dumping too much fuel and the computer kept trying to lean it out. My fuel trim was at the lowest level possible but still couldn't lean it enough. I have a strong suspicion, this is the same issue with yours. I guess these are notorious for bad injectors. It goes undiagnosed because the injectors work..just not properly. It runs better when it is cold because it is in closed loop status, when it gets to open loop status, that is when the PCM notices the issue and the misfire returns. I put three new injectors in the front, and the van runs awesome. I finally get better gas mileage and no more rough idle or chugging. The best deal on injectors is to buy them through RockAuto.com They have rebuilds for 1/3 the price and they work good.
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Posts: 7
    Hey pcsbob,

    I'm wondering what you did to fix the P0325 code. I've got the same thing plus an oxygen sensor code on my 2002 Villager. Actually the check engine light has been on for a couple of years, with no difference in performance of the engine, which is why I never bothered to fix it. Now I have to pass the emissions test, so it has to be fixed. I'm about to tear into it to replace the Knock Sensor, but I'm seeing differing info on this site and others that say that the sensor might not be the real problem. Took the van to a mechanic, and he wanted to replace both sensors, at a pretty high cost. I'd hate to do all this work myself and have it not really fix the problem. I did just replace plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor. Plugs looked good except one was black. Van has 98,000 miles.
  • pcsbobpcsbob Posts: 5
    Not sure i can offer much help. My guess is that your probllems are more involved than mine. My check engine light was never on.

    I took a 1000 mile trip during which the car ran fine. Not the greatest gas milege, but no performance issues. When I reutnred, I removed the air filter and sprayed carb cleaner in throught the opening . this provided some cleaning of the air mass screen. I then checked for codes again. Everything was cleared. Maybe I am jsut lucky

    I have a new knock sensor that was never installed. I would be happy to sell it to you at a great price if you need one. Let me know!

    Bob
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Posts: 7
    Thanks for the offer, Bob. I picked one up yesterday so I'm all set. Guess I'll proceed with tearing apart the engine this weekend to change the sensor. I just have this foreboding feeling that I'll go to all this work and the problem won't get fixed. I'll also replace the timing belt, water pump, belts, and whatever else looks like it should be replaced at 100K miles, so hopefully whatever is causing the error codes will get fixed. I'll test the knock sensor just to see if it really is bad.
    Thanks again.
  • jrvillagerjrvillager Posts: 7
    Well I completed all the work; replaced the knock sensor, oxygen sensor, and other previously mentioned parts (2002 Villager). When I was done, I started up the van and the check engine light was off! Went to get the emissions checked and got a block down the street and the CEL came back on. Boy was I bummed. I did some more research on the net and found something that said that in order to clear the codes, you were supposed to unhook the battery and turn on the headlight switch for 10 minutes. I thought, oh sure, like that's really gonna work! But I did it anyway, while I was replacing the front motor mounts. Afterwards, when I went for a test drive, no CEL. I kept waiting for it to come on, but it didn't. And yesterday I took it for emissions testing, and it passed! So now I can renew the plates. Hopefully it's fixed for good. I had tested the KS before I removed it by applying AC voltage and tapping on the block, but I'm not sure I did it right, but the important thing is that now it works, and with all the work I did, I saved over $1600 in labor by doing it myself. Thanks to everyone who takes the time to post to this site.
  • rjg4rjg4 Posts: 1
    How expensive is it to replace the Oxygen Sensor for a 1996 Mercury Villager?
  • On my 2002, the garage estimated $265.16 for parts and labor.
    I did it myself for $60.15. I think I priced the part at another store for around $120, so it pays to shop around.
    It's not difficult to replace yourself, you just have to crawl under the car. The hardest part was finding it. I replaced the aft OS, which is closer to the front than the rear (I expected it to be toward the rear of the vehicle).
  • Have a '97 Villager with 193,000 on it. One of the many problems we're having lately - when running it in high heat conditions (start/stop with AC on in summer heat), it will suddenly just cut off. Many times it will crank right back up, but missing out badly. If you give it about 5-10 minutes, it will crank back up and run fine - though you have to nurse it through the same environment without using AC.

    Recently, we have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, EGR Valve - O2 Sensor (twice), cleaned out the EGR flow tubes, and it's still doing the same thing. It seems that every time we hook it up for the "Check Engine" light, we get a new story (like now it shows the apparently infamous knock sensor code - no - I won't replace that).

    After reading a little bit on some of these forums, I'm starting to think that it might be the distributor. Would buying a cap be the answer, or should we a whole new distributor. OR - should we just drive this thing off into a lake and forget about it. It's getting too expensive to drive!
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