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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor



  • amyhallamyhall Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 mercury villager, runs great but for awhile now its been stalling when warmed up,or going to stop, even in neutrol it stalls, no engine lights come on. fine when cold,diaystics came up with 2 error codes 1. knock sensor 2. buzz trans line. does any body have any ideas if its really the knock sensor?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,010
    It's not much of a data point, but when the knock sensor went on my '99 Quest, my check engine light came on. It ran ragged too, but wouldn't quite stall out. I wound up replacing it and 3 injectors. Not a cheap fix either - the knock sensor is buried pretty good and takes a lot of labor to get to it.

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  • ckent724ckent724 Posts: 5
    ignore the knock sensor code... That code is appearing because of the detonation in the engine as it begins to shutter and stall. the knock sensor monitors the engine for any detonations. If a detonation occurs the knock sensor sends a code to the computer. Also when the knock sensor recognizes a detonation and sends a signal to the computer, the computer will then try to adjust timing, etc...Need more info on the "buzz trans line" never heard of that before...Do you have the actual codes? Need more info...
  • lisa2009lisa2009 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 mercury villager estate and need to change EGR valve can you please tell me what line is supposed to connect to the very top of the gold piece?
  • radennisradennis Posts: 3
    my 99 villager doesn't stall but surges at a stop but not all the time some times turning on the a/c makes it stop but not all the time changed the plugs, plug wires, tps,disributor cap and rotor, had the codes checked only knock sensor came up but was reset fine now but van still surging runs fine when given gas and seems to shift ok, we also had to replace some motor mounts. any suggestions
  • svess6652svess6652 Posts: 2
    Ours was the fuel injectors?
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Posts: 62
    May i suggest reading back 2 years worth of comments, there is a differance between symptoms and causes. Villagers and Quests (older ones) are nortorius for bad distributors as they age. Read past posts.
  • joeallanjoeallan Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    We are having troubles with our 1999 Mercury Villager. It hesitates and bogs at acceleration, idles roughly while in gear and sometimes dies at intersections, and when in park has overall intermittent high idle. My husband has tested the KS sub-harness and believes that it is running at too high of voltage according to previous posts. The van is also using more fuel than it should. It is running a Knock Sensor/Circuit Fault code, which we have had cleared three times to check for reliability of the code. We are aware that the Knock Sensor code most often is not the actual problem.

    We have change the O2 sensors (both), the air filter, the fuel filter, the distributor, the rotor and cap, and the spark plugs and wires, if I'm not forgetting anything. We purchased the Haynes book, but nothing is really standing out right now as to the main issue could be.

    Right now we are considering checking grounds off of the computer, but are not sure where they would be located. We are also considering changing the negative battery cable. Any other leads or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • radennisradennis Posts: 3
    we have the same van for the last three months we've had very similar problems had a knock sensor code also. ours never died but started acting like it was'nt going to start would never do the surging or rough idle when we got to the shop almost as if it new what we were trying to do. we did how ever find out that it was the EGR valve. that it was sticking wide open when it got warm. the dealer no longer makes this part they do have some like at auto zone for about $167.00
    we also changed fuel filter,plugs,plug wires, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the Throttle position sensor.
    the guy thats going to fix the egr valve said it could have also been the fuel injectors or the fuel injectors needed to be cleaned and o rings replaced this is not the case with our van but that was his first possible diagnosis.
    if you go to church you might find someone with a mechanic shop or some one who can help. our church has a car ministry with mechanics that often do some side work which is a blessing. hope this helps
  • Do not ever replace a knock sensor. They can not cause any driveability problems. Other things cause the sesnor code to set
  • amb7amb7 Posts: 1
    snorkelbobby can you help or anyone else? I just purchased a knock sensor at Checkers for my 2000 Mercury Villager. I started having problems yesterday when the traffic was backed up. Lots of stalling, the van dieing on me, lots of hiccups and etc. I immed drove it to Goodyear and they ran a diagnostic and told me it was the knock sensor and that the intake manifold needs to be resealed, and a new valve cover gasket?
    I drove it again today and the van died six times and took a few attempts to start just driving a 1/4 mile. In between all of that I had a lot of close calls with it dieing. Like I said this all really began yesterday but for the past couple of weeks we would have a slight hestitation every now and then when driving.
  • ttiedettiede Posts: 1
    k so my van is the 95 villeger. it boggs out like it is running out of gas with a full tank all of this happens at normal running temp and some time i can get it to start back up while im moveing but more often than not it comepletely dies and when trying to start it will start then bog out shortly after it is giving me a big head ache i would like to take it to the salt flats to blow it ski high any suggetions?
  • Hey guys, I had the exact same issue with my '99 Villager. It would run fine at cold start up but as soon as it would warm up a bit, it would misfire, and chug at idle. It would smooth out somewhat under acceleration but the problem was always there. I tried a new cap, rotor, plugs, cleaned the optical sensor inside the distributor, new EGR valve, a couple of fuel injectors and it didn't help. At times, it would generate a check engine light (random miltiple misfire code) and when I would clear it, sometimes it wouldn't even generate a code for a while, however it would akways run rough. Anyway, it turned out to be the distributor! I pulled out the distributor and there were shavings all over the gear. I did some research and apparently they are known for failing. The heat tends to take a toll on the coil and knock sensor (which are both inside the distributor) and combined with the gear wear, it can cause a misfire code due to excess play. I put in a new distributor and the problem is finally gone and It runs good now! This problem plagued me for a couple of years and even a couple of dealerships couldn't find the problem. Buy one on eBay, because they are not cheap. It sounds like that is your problem as well.
  • I am looking for advice on how to replace the knock sensor on a 2001 Quest. I am hoping that someone can tell me how to replace it without removing the intake manifold.
  • Please look into this Further, normally you do not have to replace this part. This knock sensor is like a microphone...and is hard to get to and is on the block behind the intake maifold.. that detects detonation.
    If you have detonation it is caused by something else. I had similar problems with my 95 villager and it ended up being my distributor assembly, and there was no code for that. I saw another post saying the knock sensor was part of the distributor assembly, On my van it is not... it is a seperate sensor.
    I have read a bunch of these forums that say similar things. The knock sensor code is usually tripped by another problem. And by itself does not cuase you van to run bad.
  • You should not have to replace the knock sensor at all. 1 in a million go bad. Also there is no way to replace the sensor without removing the intake. It is mounted on the top side of the block under the lower intake manifold. Something is causing the knock sensor to trigger. When a code for the sensor is posted it is because the sensor was triggered, not because it was bad... There could be multiple areas that could cause this. Read through this topic and start to eliminate the possibilities.
  • Thanks for the reply on the knock sensor.

    The van is actually running fine. I have not noticed any missing, surging or stalling. I have noticed that my gas mileage has dropped a bit. The only known issue is the P0325 code that I have when a scanner is connected. This code will keep me from passing the local emissions test.

    Still think i should look beyond the actual sensor?

  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Has 99 villager, runs great! until lately. Check engine light on. and noticable lower MPG. Went to shop for checking: replaced Oxygen and Knock sensors based on codes.
    Two weeks later, car runs rough at reverse gear and when you hit a brake.
    Any advice?
  • Thats a tough one. When the car is in reverse do you have your foot on the brake? If so the underlying issue is when the brakes are applied you get the rough idle. If the answer to my beginning question I would pursue a vacuum leak. The power booster sucks alot of vacuum. I first would look at the vacuum hose from the booster to the intake manifold. If that appears OK I would get a can of carb cleaner. With the vehicle running, spray all vacuum hoses. Be sure to get the vacuum hoses on the back of the motor. What you want to look for is a surge in the idle. Pay attention to where and what you spray. If you hit a hose with the cleaner and it surges that vacuum line has a leak. Dont forget to spray around the intake as well. Hope that finds it for you....
  • tester1tester1 Posts: 33
    Thanks for the detail information ckent724!
    Some update from me.
    I opened up the air-filter compartment and used the air-cleaner-can try to blow clean the MAF sensor. Afterward, drove the car and feel (without brake) in reverse gear. Car was running rough. drive for ~6 miles and check-engine-light is on.
    Plan to read the obdii code today.
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