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Volvo V70 Engine Issues



  • I have never heard of a gas cap causing a stalling issue. Have them monitor the mass air flow sensor, if it is around 14-18 kgh it is fine. higher could indicate a problem(unless a/c is on). Also, have them check for recall 155, this is covered under warranty and pertains exactly to what you are talking about. Volvo is aware of this and has extended the warranty to 10 years and 200,000 miles on the throttle body.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    I've been using Mobile 10W-30 extended performance in my 2004 V70 with NA 2.4L 168 hp and changing at 7500 to 10,000 mile intervals. I'm thinking about changing to one of the Amsoil 10W-30 products*. Any comments?

    I don't need the 25,000 mile change interval oil because I'm not putting that many miles on it in a year.

    *"XL SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil API certified
    Extended Drain Intervals

    Specifically designed for extended drain intervals beyond 3,000 miles as established by vehicle manufacturers such as Honda (10,000 miles in certain vehicles) and for those vehicles equipped with oil monitoring devices. Standard drain interval recommendation is 7500 miles where the vehicle manufacturer does not specify extended drain intervals.
    Product Code: XLT"
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Thanks for pointing out my error of attributing the knock potential to the compression ratio rather than to the absolute pressure inside the cylinders during the compression stroke.

    Due to forced air induction a turbo- or supercharged engine can have a significantly higher absolute pressure of the air-fuel mixture than a NA engine even though the latter nowadays usually has a higher compression ratio. I got my 2004 V70 as a hand-me-down and it replaced a 1991 Dodge Spirit with NA 2.5L, 8-valve, single OHC, 4-cyl rated at 100 hp! That engine had an about 9:1 CR and used US regular 87 AKI gasoline. I don't know if it had a knock sensor or not.

    Suppose you did fuel the Volvo 2.4L NA 168hp 5-cyl (CR 10.3:1) with AKI 87. Under what conditions would the knock sensing and engine control system be retarding the timing to prevent knocking?
  • a few weeks ago the Volvo dealer checkd the 'check engine' light-code was for cam reset valve. I was told its ok to drive it until I got around to fixing it, no worries, won't damage anything. last night I had it towed, after the light flashed on/off and the message said "do not drive/get immediate service". the engine felt sluggish (though not sputtering) and vibrated until I could pull over 1 mile later. an off-duty mechanic thought it might be the 'cam reset sensor' (w/o even knowing this history). Is it likely the same problem that volvo said? if so, why did they not warn me this could happen?!! is there now damage b/c I've been driving it for weeks? if so, shame on you, Dealership! the T-belt also needs replacing (150k) which I planned to do next week! so I should get both done, if it is the cam valve. car is now sitting at Volvo waiting for diagnosis. I am worried that they will take advantage-I'm a their mercy now! what are the likely/potential causes and fixes? I don't want them to replace this valve if its not the prob. it sounds expensive. thank you for any help!!
  • olieolie Posts: 2
    Hey I have a 1998 Volvo v70. It is just a normal v70(not a turbo or T5) My problems are over starting issues. I am a college student, so when I leave my car to sit for a period of time from couple of weeks to a month, it will not start. It is not a problem of turning over, the starter cranks it over perfectly. I usually try to start it for a about a minute or so. I stop for of ruining the starter or draining the battery. After getting frustrated I let it sit. When I come back to start it again it will either repeat, or it will start. It depends on how long it has been sitting. The crazy thing is, I can always get it to start after a while of "fussing" with it. When I finally get it started, it will idol properly but when I give it gas, it sputters and dies. After a few tries at this, it will start to stay on when I give it gas. So I take it around the block (driving it very hard) and all the problems are over. Once I get it running properly again, all is fine. I can drive for as long as I want with no problems. As far as day to day, it will always start with no problems. I have taken it to a Volvo specialist in Bellingham, Washington and had no results. They say it is fine. So if anyone has had this problem or knows what might be the problem, I would appreciate your incite. Thanks
  • 1998 Volvo V70 XC AWD 2.4L, 5 cyl.

    I recently pulled the engine and transmission in order to replace old seals and gaskets. The car has 225,000 miles and was leaking everywhere, but other than that, the car was running fine. I put the engine back in, and the car turns over strongly, but won’t fire. There is no spark getting to the plugs so I checked the distributor wire coming from the coil. There was no spark either. I have checked the crankshaft positioning sensor and the camshaft positioning sensor. Both check out good. I checked all fuses to make sure none were burnt. All good. I double checked all connectors to all sensors and cleaned them with connector cleaner to ensure good contact. I double checked the timing and alignment marks and even put a compression tool in the number 1 cylinder to make sure that it is on top dead center. There are no codes although I am using a regular code reader not specifically for Volvo's. I have hit rock bottom. Any help on why I am getting no spark? I really need this car to run.
  • Got this warning light and went to the Volvo dealer.
    Told me knock sensor codes showed (ECM 3410 ECM 3420).

    Found severe oil sludge build-up at oil filter when performing routine oil change (had it changed 3000 miles earlier with no problem).

    The service rep told me I had 2 choices:

    1) Remove the sump and check for amount of sludge in bottom of engine adn clean ($700-$1000)

    2) Replace the engine.(current engine has 78k)

    I drove tghe car home and warning lights did not go on.

    Any thoughts on the problem? Is it worth removng the "sump' and cleaning it? SHould I chekc with another repari shop?
  • YES! Have the oil pan removed and get the sump cleaned out. We had the exact same issue with our 2001 V70, but chose to ignore it and got stuck on an extended trip from Florida to Tennessee. Luckily, our mechanic here found a Volvo mechanic in NC who took care of us. The amount of junk in the sump was staggering. You do not need a new engine, however. Cleaning the sump and oil pan should take care of the problem. Good luck!
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    It seems to me that you should also immediately change to full synthetic oil: Mobile1 10W-30 or Mobile1 10W-30 Extended Performance. The sudden appearance of sludge may indicate that the emissions control system is allowing combustion by-products to get into the oil where it cooks the dino oil into sludge.

    This suggests that you should get the crankcase ventilation system checked. If this model still has the troublesome flame trap design, then change the flame trap (a little perforated plastic disc). This is a very simple maintenance item which I changed myself on my wife's 1996 850 Wagon (855). But it wasn't plugged perhaps because I had for years used Mobile1 10W-30.

    In fact you might be able to empty the oil and change to full synthetic without dropping the pan. You might be able to flush the sump with the oil drain plug out by pouring some oil down the dip stick tube and seeing if it forces sludge out the drain hole. Alternatively, you could possibly evacuate sludge from the bottom of the pan with one of those oil evacuation devices which is inserted in the dipstick tube.

    But the safer route is probably to drop the pan and clean out the pan and oil pump pickup, then change to Mobile1 which is much more resistant than dino oil is to sludge formation. Mobile1 is $5 to $7 per quart depending on source but I think it is worth it.
  • I recently purchased a 1998 v70 awd. I have a coolant leak that looks like it is coming from the transmission cooler line just below the top radiator hose. I was told i needed a new radiator. I am thinking about replacing the the radiator, top and bottom radiator hoses, and the transmission cooler lines. It looks like there are 4 of these lines total , 2 on each side. It also looks like there are oil leaks coming from where they mount at the opposite end of the radiator. I am debating tackling this job myself . I have a Chiltons manual that has a pretty good description of how to change the radiator but im wondering about those transmission cooler lines. Anything i should know before i tackle this myself ? Thanks in advance.
  • I just purchased an '01 V70, used, and am having the same problem. Have you found anything out yet? Our car runs great until we slow down, like for a stoplight, then it will stall. It loses power - dash lights dim, then it stalls. It has started up right away after, but yeah, I have been left motionless in the the middle of the road. We took it in to a shop by us and they could find nothing wrong. Every time they drove it, it didn't stall. Anything you, or anyone else, can tell me I would really appreciate. Thanks.
  • olieolie Posts: 2
    I recently had the problem fixed. The way the mechanic explained it was the distributor was going bad. The points were all corroded and the wires were bad. So we had the mechanic replace everything for about $800 dollars. It was kind of steep, but what do you do. I hope this helps.
  • Thanks, that helps a lot. I realy hope it's something a lot cheaper than that, but I kind of have that feeling...
  • paula11paula11 Posts: 1
    My car runs great, but sometimes, he starts to lose power and dies.

    For him not to die completly, I press the pedal (very hard) and he runs a little bit and finnaly stops.
    All dash lights dim. I can start the car immediatly, but he as no power.

    One thing I noticed these last days...I feel the car more heavy than normal.

    Anybody as any idea what the problem is?

    I live in a new building and unfortunatly I park my car in the wrong place. They tow my car, without using a flat bed. The volvo cross country needs to be tow only in flat bed.
    Do this people damage something or this is just a coincidence?
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    Towing the car without a flat-bed should not cause any engine malfunction. Even if they used an old-fashioned wrecker that raised one end of the car, they probably used a dolly under the end of the car that was trailing. If the car was locked, the gear selector was in Park and the parking brake set was set, then almost certainly they used a dolly to allow the wrecker to pull the car any distance on pavement. If they got inside the car, then they would have released the parking brake and towed with the front end raised.

    Take the car to a mechanic for the engine malfunction, this is an unacceptable and unsafe condition.
  • rellim1rellim1 Posts: 3
    We had the same problem with ours. We brought it in to a Volvo dealership to be repaired and had to get a new fuel filter and distributor cap. It was pretty pricey - about $1,500, but it is all fixed and running perfectly now.
  • jim314jim314 Posts: 491
    So far we have not had any of these very disappointing and expensive repairs on the three Volvos we have owned, a 1996 850 wgn, a 2004 V70, and a 2007 XC90, all of which were naturally aspirated base models with automatic tranny as the only upgrade.

    I would be pretty disappointed to have to pay $1500 for a fuel filter and a distributor cap, but I am spoiled. I think in about 2000 the oxygen sensors on the 850 went out, and this was about $600 P&L which shocked me.

    A little less than a year ago I sold my 1991 Dodge Spirit 2.5L 5-spd, which I had had for 16.5 years, and which I was able to do simple maintenance and repairs on myself. A dist cap and a fuel filter would have been about $50 to $100 for the parts, and I would est $100 for labor, but I know that the parts and labor for modern upscale cars is a lot more.
  • I'm in Florida....recently my car overheated. I had it towed to the repair shop, the mechanic said he believed that it was the thermostat. He changed that, said ran the car for 1/2 hour and it didn't overheat. Before he changed the theromostat I asked if it could be the head gasket. He said he would check it. After doing that he said the head gasket was fine, he put pressure on the system...didn't see any leaks. Yesterday we were coming back from the beach and my car was running hot. I pulled over, waited for it to cool down and the coolant reservoir was almost empty. Any ideas about what could be causing this?
  • 96850glt96850glt Posts: 20
    Maybe he didn't top off the coolant properly. Once it was topped off, did the problem happen again?
  • psycodadpsycodad Posts: 5
    i have a 1998 v70 awd with 135000 miles it just started smoking it looks like the oil line feeding the turbo is leaking what is the easiest way to change the line ? it just smokes when it is warm
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