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Volvo V70 Electrical/Lighting Issues

24

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  • I have a 2004 V70 with 57K on it, i am currently into the 5th bulb, three days ago (i refuse to change another as my hands are too big and i always mess up the headlight centering). Now this morning after a cool (38F) night the car would not start and indicated "engine is not prepared to start" I also notice that the front pass/driver seats were in the far back tilt position. Questions: 1)electrical problem 2) Is there a recall that my dealer does not know about 3)or i am crazy?

    I live in Europe but the car is US Specs. I just had the 52K tune up 4 Oct and everything checked OK.

    :mad:
  • Could the reason be the car did not start because the battery is low in the key. I understand the car has a disabler( dead switch) capability if you use the wrong key?
  • My 2004 V70 (47K miles) has been having bulb failures for about a year or so. On occassion the warning light will come on - even though all bulbs seem to be working, especially in cool weather (around 30F). I have replaced both front bulbs twice, and many of the back lights are also on their second switch. Recently, I just replaced all back bulbs, and now already one is blown again (only 2 weeks later). When this bulb blew out, it took a headlight with it... I am begining to think that there is a bigger issue - than just a little lightbulb blowing out. I had a local repair shop look at it and they were clueless - thought it could be a system error. I have yet to find any recalls about the electronics issues - and would like to avoid the certainly hefty Volvo dealership repair. Can you provide any suggestions or help???
  • gweezygweezy Posts: 1
    My 99 v70 recently broke down mid drive. For a few days the TRAC light and ABS were cutting on and of. Then while i was driving the whole electical sysem shut down. The engine still ran for about half a mile till i was able to turn off the highway. When i tried to start it back up the interior lights went crazy and sounded like the battery was dead. I tried to jump it and the same thing happened. does anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong? i was thinking the battery or alternator but if that was the case something should have happened when i tried to jump it off another truck. i'm hoping it's not something worse. Somebody please give me some good news!
  • akandrewsakandrews Posts: 2
    I had the same problem - drivers seat heater burned a hole through the seat cover and I felt my leg getting hot. Looked down and saw the smoke - wire burned hole about the size of a cigarette burn through the seat near my calf.

    Never tried to fix it because I have spent a FORTUNE trying to keep this $40,000 car running. I HATE VOLVO. This has been the WORST car EVER
  • soupyxsoupyx Posts: 2
    We just had our car ib the shop for transmission trouble and a day later, the "TAILGATE OPEN" message appears, thought the tailgate is closed. Anyone know of this being a common problem? Is it a sensor?
  • I have a 2001 V-70 T-5 with only 79,000 miles; recently, the rear locks, hatch, gas door, rear wiper quit. I took it to a decent independent who told me the rear elec. module needed to be replaced and I'm looking at a hefty bill to do it..anyone hear of this problem?
  • sorry, i just cant seem to figure it out. someone PLEASE help me im trying to put an aftermarket stereo in its place.
  • Hello,
    I was just reading your problem with your bulb failure warning light. My 2004 Volvo V70 is doing the same thing. I have changed the bulb once and it still does it especially in cool weather like you mentioned. Mine just turned 60000 miles. Did you ever get any more information? Any thing you can provide would be helpful. Thanks
  • I have a 2000 V70R. The rear hatch light doesn't come on (bulb is known good) and there is no 12V at the connector, ever. The dash indicator of "rear hatch open" also doesn't come on.

    Where is the sensor that determines hatch open/closed located?
  • The sensor switch is located with the latch/lock mechanism in the hatch door. Anybody know how to get this assembly out? The control rods from the exterior handle and the lock control appear to be attached with plastic connectors. On a 9 year old car I'm reluctant to put more than a tiny bit of pressure on these for fear the plastic has become brittle and will break, leaving me far worse off than an in-op light.

    I have verified that it is the switch by shorting out two pins of the connector. The interior light comes on and the instrument panel indicator for "hatch open" illuminates.
  • FYI - The link between the exterior handle and the mechanism is easily disconnected at the top end; rotate the plastic clip and the part falls in your hands. The lock connector is a tad more difficult. There's a "hook" that attaches to a white part near the latch assembly. The hook can be slid towards the passenger side to remove the linkage, but it does take some force.
    The entire lock and latch assembly comes out very easily. The switch is buried at the very bottom; as expected it's a tiny deal. I think there was some corrosion or something; I actuated it a few dozen times and viola', all is well again.
    The door trim piece is attached with parts that slide in to metal fittings on the door. Rotate the attachment parts 90 degrees to remove them from the trim, and slide them in to the door. Then the trim piece just snaps back in position.
    Good luck!
  • wojnarwojnar Posts: 2
    Yesterday I had my 98 V70 inspected--all was well, I drove home. This morning it would not start--when I turned ignition, 8's came across the speedometer and clock area-no sounds to indicate weak battery--could not get car out of "park". AAA came and charged battery-they said it was dead--while car was running to get the charge, I opened the glove compartment and turned on the radio to reset the code. The car just died--it is now at my mechanic's--is it possible that something with the inspection computer messed it up?
  • That's pretty odd. Did they by chance disconnect the battery during service? If so, they may have failed to re-connect the alternator - your drive home from the shop would have depleted the battery. The OBD connection they use to diagnose/tune can't really interfere with battery or alternator, so it's something else. The computer reads O2, load, speed, etc. and adjusts timing and fuel mixture. I think its a coincidence that the engine died while resetting the radio code. Then again...
  • hsmarthsmart Posts: 1
    Our 2004 V70 (65,000 Miles) has begun having an intermittent starting issue. When ignition key is turned to run, all lights illuminate as normal, and any accessories left on (blower, radio etc.) start up. Sometimes when the key is turned further to start the engine, nothing happens. There does not seem to be a consistent theme with temperature or humidity. The battery has been changed, and the electrical charge system has been checked all ok. The main starting cable connections have been inspected for cleanliness and tightness. The dealer has looked at it, and is not capable of doing much because the diagnostics have stored no revealing data. My thoughts are (1) Starter/Solenoid going bad, (2) Some type of Neutral switch malfunction and (3) Ignition Switch going awry. Is anyone aware of a common problem or recall concerning this topic?
  • I just bought a used V70XC s/w and the battery died.

    To "restart" the radio, it calls for a code, which I do not have.

    How do I get it?

    Thanks - okanogan
  • dreccdrecc Posts: 1
    The alarm sounds some times an hour after its set by my remote or or button on door.
    I have sprayed WD in all the door locks and hood. also replaced the battery in the remote. (2004 V70 2.5T)
  • mamasv70mamasv70 Posts: 2
    I have the same issue with my 2004 V70...the car has been idle in front of my house for four days. I've been trying to diagnos myself to no avail. What was the cause of your problem?
  • mamasv70mamasv70 Posts: 2
    I found out the problem....the small wire to the solenoid was loose and corroded. After cleaning and pinching the connector the car fired up. Must have been getting progressively worse over time until it finally failed.
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