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Jeep Liberty Diesel EGR Problems

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  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    That is nothing usual. They drive like that on dry pavement in the metro Washington D.C. area.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,154
    lol, I do get on I-66 and 81 almost every year visiting my sister but I'm usually able to avoid the Beltway. Glad I'm not commuting in that mess.

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  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    This video is frightening. I don't understand how a car can turn around and accelerate at the same time :sick:
    Or are we seeing the effects of the ABS system when a person's last reflex is to slam the brakes and wait?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,154
    I could be mistaken, but at least one of those bumper cars looked to be a 4WD SUV too. :surprise:

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  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: It brakes my heart to hear how you are suffering in the hot miserable heat, in the winter no less.
    I can't say with certianty about fuel mileage, as we have not even used a tank full yet. It may be a little less or the same, I just don't know yet. However, the shifts are more noticeable and firmer to feel. This is not bad as the soft smooth shift actually wares down the clutches, as the tec told me. One other thought is the winter fuel does not give as good of mpg, so some way this too has to be entered in to the fuel mileage.
    Frankly i I think the F37 is a lot about not too much. I see it that we have a new torque converter, and my case it's after putting on 27,500 miles on the old one.
    What kind and weight oil are you using? I went back to Mobile 1 5-40w after 8,000 miles on Shell Rotella 5-40w. That oil seemed to me to become sorts sluggy on the dip stick and the engine seemed more noisy. Besides the Rotella synthetic is not being repoduced.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: Your advice about going down hill in "N" was a Godsend!!!!!! Our daughter came up our hill, when no one else has! She did not know no one has made it up say nothing about making it down. But.... she attempted to, thinking she could just drive down. I went back and looked at your advice. Almost as slow as a snail. She hugged the side of the hill that has a rough dirt and rock covered with ice. She kept it in neutral and made it. Your advice was a life saver! Thank you so very, very much!!!!!!

    Farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout I use Rotella 5w-40 and believe it or not the only other oil that i can find is the Amsoil which is too expensive; i know that Rotella is very noisy oil and i still can get it in the syn formula if it goes then dino will have to do but for sure i will never use mobil 0w-40.

    Nescosmo.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Farout, I'm so pleased someone else tried my observation and found if safer to brake over ice. :shades: :shades:

    But I wish more people could bring this to public attention. I have the feeling there is a bug in the logic of the ABS system. When we have the brake peddle pressed the transmission should never re engage. But who should hear this? From my side of the pond I'm just another "Don Quichotte"
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: Our daughter asked me to thank you so very much. The drive down our hill is about 2,000 feet at about a 40 degree slope. She was scared to death, and cried several times, but she did it in 45 minuets, and it was a snails pace. In fact I am sure a snail could have made the trek sooner. So from all three of us (me, my wife, and daughter) are so blessed that you made your post when you did.
    The Liberty she drives is a 2006 Sport gas. The Liberty does have the EST and brake assist, and anti roll over stuff. With all that added heck, do we need a driver?
    I was able to pull the 3 inches of ice off the hood, but the windshield has some long line cracks. When I can get out of here I will get the glass replace. The "Green Beast" starts right up and no smoke and using no block heater. Thanks again. Any other ideas to help in case of.....?

    Farout
  • Living in Alabama been remembering my days of on the ice and snow. (Not Here lol) Can't say I miss them. But do have one other tip that helped me a lot. Generally I prefer a stiff tire in the realm of 40 to 50 lbs. Lower rolling resistance, better tire wear, and greater tire load capacity. When EVER the snow and ice Hit I would always lower my pressure drastically to a mushy tire like low, low, as long as the rim would not hit the payment. Most likely it would of been like 10 lbs. Found that this gave quite an edge on the slick snot. Just a warning on ice and snow the sidewall would disapate the heat from the low pressure in the wet snow and ice easy with the low speeds. Make sure when the roads start to clear one must reinflate the tire to normal pressure.
  • ktangktang Posts: 2
    Today is day 22. My 06 liberty diesel has been in the shop for 22 days, under 5000km on the thing! I was driving one day when all the warning lights on the dash started coming on. I pulled over and turned the jeep off. It hasn't started since. First they thought it was the alternator, then a module for the alternator(???). They have "narrowed" it down to a computer problem. The service department has contacted every technician in Canada for assistance, with no luck. They are now working their way through the U.S. Customer service for Chrysler Canada have been useless. They keep telling me they are doing everything they can. Unfortunately there are no lemon laws in Canada, so it seems like I am screwed. Keep asking if they are going to give me a new car and they keep telling me nothing like this has ever happened before. Anyone had similar experiences?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Farout, I just collected another 'recipe' from a colleague living on a mountain nearby:
    - Cold ashes from a fireplace are supposed to be excellent for a tire to grip on ice.
    When you get stuck in an icy shallow pit that forms around your wheels by digging through snow or ice, there is usually no chance to pull out. Just sparkle a handful of ashes on the ice and around the tire. I've never tried this but I believe those who live in eagle nests :blush:
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    caribou1: The ashes are no problem! We have a Waterford wood heat stove that generates lots of ashes! Maybe I should bag them and sell the bags. Now that is the kind of recycling I can really get into.
    I found out that the 2006 Liberty's have a service note on how to clean these dirt-magnet seat covers. Wash with warn water only power vac. Then let dry, and repeat the same except with cold water, vac, and let dry, and vac once more. DCX says this won't fail......I wouldn't bet the farm on it!

    Diesel is now $2.32 US here, and reg gas is $1.99, How much is the fuel there?
    Oh I read that the Jeep Commander's days are limited and no more in 2009. I feel sorry for those who bought this gas hog box on wheels.

    Farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Farout: Today I'm bringing home two small bags of ashes to try with my little car. I'm just curious to see how good this works; it seems most people knew about this trick here, and I didn't. :sick:

    My BFG T/A tires have 38,000 miles and still give outstanding performance on crushed ice and snow. I was a bit doubtful entering the winter season due to the wear of their cutting edges: I was wrong.

    I use NAPA Windshield Winter Blades that I strongly recommend. They don't completely cover the passenger side because of their additional stiffness but ice is no problem because of the way they are built. I can only complain about the accumulation of snow that gets stuffed into the groove located on the left side of the windshield. Snow accumulated outside cools the glass and this catches humidity that reduces the driver's view.

    Good diesel fuel (Total Excellium) came down to 1.1 Euro per liter(~5.70USD/gal) and reg gas is practically the same price.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    We used ashes to move a helpless 4wd Suburban on ice a couple of years ago on a surface that our 98 Jeep moved easily. We keep a bucket handy for our steep driveway when it gets icy - haven't needed it yet with the Jeeps we have had. I learned the put-it-in-neutral trick on ice when I was 16. It just seemed natural.

    I lived in a village with steep hills everywhere. One day I couldn't get up any of the steep hills to my parents house. I backed down a steep hill and backed up another hill just to turn around but the car just kept going - got home in reverse. The leading edges of the tires were badly worn. I switched the tires around to put the sharp trailing edge the right direction and got through the rest of the winter on those hills.

    Most people when stuck and "rocking" a vehicle jam the transmission into gear and floor it, then jam it into gear and floor it until they get unstuck or ruin the transmission. Here's a rocking tip that will not hurt the transmission and has never failed me. Gently move the vehicle forward (or backward) until it stops while applying the brake just before or right after it starts to spin at the end of the rock. Change gears (at an idle) while holding the brake, then release the brake while gently applying throttle. Applying the brake at the end of the rock helps hold a position further in the rock. Chances are you will drive out of the icy trough you made and get back on top of the packed snow in just 3 or 4 tries. Sounds simple, but I have never seen anyone do this.

    I have helped people, that were stuck and destroying their car, by just asking them to get out and I would get behind the wheel and drive it out of the spot using this method. I love their stunned expressions. It is a waste of time to try to push someone who is frustrated.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    Siberia: I believe we share the same driving experiences. I do exactly what you describe. So far I never needed help except for the only time in my life my vehicle rested on it's belly over an icy snow drift higher than my knees. That was kind of funny for me but not for my wife anxious to get to work on time :sick:

    But regarding the ABS combination with the gearbox being in Neutral position, I find tricky for the non 'addicted' people. Since our dear PCM (engine injection plus transmission synchronization calculator) gives or should give an alarm to the transmission controller to release the clutches that were being used at the moment the slippage began, I think the logic could wait for the throttle pedal to be pressed again before resuming previous drive selection.

    I realize how people react when they loose control so a bit more value analysis here could be appreciated.
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    I have nothing but good things to say about my CRD. I now have 43M miles and have loved every minute of my driving experiance with it. However, today my check engine light came on for again and I fear this may be the 4th EGR replacement coming up. I did see that the code set this time is different from the other times - P1104 - anyone know what this means? I have noticed that my fuel mileage has dropped a lot. I plan on calling my dealer(Who has a very good diesel mechanic) on Monday morning - but was really wondering if anyone had an idea what this code means. Thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Spete.... Can not help you on that one the book goes from 1102 and jump to 1131, maybe is the EGR valve. Are you using ULSD fuel?. ARE you blowing it nose every week?. Are you bleeding the air from the fuel filter?. are you cleaning the map sensor at every oil change?. This are a few things that you have to do to the CRD as part of the maintenance procedure. Good Luck.

    Nescosmo.
  • spetespete Posts: 73
    Thanks for the relpy - yes I am doing everything you mention in your reply. I had not any problems since last fall (November was last EGR replacement and was supposed to be a different part number from Chrysler) - and this time i had stopped to get my morning coffee and when I restarted the engine after about 10 minutes of shutdown, the check engine light came on. I will post what I learn after I bring it in this week. Thanks
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Spete...Yesterday i replaced the fuel filter ( i had one since i bought the CRD} with only 9k miles and let me tell you the difference was super; I could not believe that a filter change could make so much difference, the filter inside was black like tar, well you could think about it. Wix make a filter for $26.00 that replace the original and is identical the #is 33647. Try it.

    Nescosmo.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    EGR Flow control valve. Had the same thing happen. rather common.

    farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout... How do you like your vehicle, funny the day that you exchange your CRD the diesel went chipper that ru.

    Nescosmo.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    If the Compass would have been a choice when we bought the CRD, I am sure we whould have went with the Compass. The vehicle is quiet, and runs so smooth. The back seats are comfortable even for a large adult ! The AWD and the 4x4 are just right for our needs. There seems to be more usable space in the Compass for us. What I really like is the electric window switches are on the doors, where they belong. The CVT transmission is very smooth and has good response. The engine has great get up and go at the high end, which the CRD lost at the F-37.

    farout
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Farout... I am very happy for you. I remember when i was in my 20s', i had a ford pk truck I-6 cylinder and it had so much get up and go, i remember that it use to have an oil pan that used to hold about 7 quart of oil. You are right the CRD was like that but my, lost it since the first flash.

    Nescosmo.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    2005 crd liberty egr valve lost at eighteen thousand miles vin 1j46l485w635602 also torque converter and pump pcm and some other thing moor concerned about the egr valve should be sum extended warranty love my crd mike herold synlubes
  • mwweimmwweim Posts: 1
    Newbie here.

    I am considering purchasing a Liberty CRD but have some concerns regarding various recurring issues such as EGR valve replacements.

    I currently drive a 2002 VW Jetta TDI that I have made some standard modifications that other TDI owners regularly make. One of these modifications is removal of the EGR valve, EGR cooler and replacing the EGR valve with a straight through race pipe. This solves several problems including clogged EGR valves and intake manifolds. You wouldn't believe how much gunk was built up inside the EGR valve and intake manifold after 60,000 miles.

    A subsequent ECU tuning to increase boost pressures, fueling, rev limiter, speed limiter and EGR delete to remove a related CEL worked wonders on the performance. FYI, TDI's in the German market don't have the EGR system and they have far less problems.

    I live in Wisconsin which does not require diesels to go through emissions inspection/testing. Even if it did, it would still pass and most inspectors aren't intelligent enough to notice the difference. I wouldn't consider this modification while the vehicle was under warranty, but after the warranty was up I sure wouldn't be taking it back to the stealership to continually purchase/replace an EGR valve.

    I also see that InMotion Tuning offers a performance ECU tuning that among other things, turns down the EGR setting.

    Have any of you modified, bypassed or deleted the EGR valve or perhaps had a performance tune that took the EGR valve out of the picture?

    If so, what has your experience been since the modification?

    How difficult is it to remove/bypass the EGR valve on a Liberty CRD?

    Thanks - Mark
  • I have a 2005 CRD...have 68,000 miles on it. You state "ARE you blowing it nose every week?" I have no idea what you are saying here. What am I supposed to be doing that I'm not? It sounds like my CRD has a nose and also has a cold! Seriously, what is this process.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,349
    European common rail diesel engines have small displacement, they are fitted in most cars here because a great part of the distilled gasoline goes to NA and we keep the diesel fuel.
    EGR issues have been identified a long time ago and pushing the engine to it's limit for a very short period of time is a known remedy when you produce black smoke. When the turbo gets into action under full load at low engine speed it produces a blasting sound similar to a person blowing it's nose. This is where the 'nose' came from and the remedy is explained by Renault and local 'road angels'.
    What it does is simply build up more pressure in both intake and exhaust manifolds. This helps closing the valve when it's hesitating, but cannot help much more. By doing it once a week you expect to stay away from trouble.
  • crdjoncrdjon Posts: 1
    Changing filters can make a big difference, expecially when the manufacturer forgets to put the second lift pump in the tank as was originally designed inyour CP3 fuel system, You only got the pump up the front.
  • gti338gti338 Posts: 1
    I figured it out! This is how I solved my egr problems. I went to the dealer and paid nearly $700 for them to install a new one. I did none of the blowing nose stuff etc. and sure enough I needed another 11000 miles later. Guess what the part itself has a 12000 mile warranty. So I get a new one free and as long as it breaks again within 12000 I'm good. I'm not going to ever use the new diesel fuel because I hear it helps the EGR and will probably push me over the 12000 limit. Ridiculous isn't it Daimler? Oh well eat it.
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