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Dodge Caliber Electrial/Lighting Issues



  • Ok so i have a 2007 caliber and been having problem with it every since I have had it for the last two years. What happens is after a take out the key and just sit in the the gauges needles will go from zero position to the park position (below 0). And I have to jump my car off a few time and in two years i have had to get the battery replaced 5 times. Know i went into a dodge forum and found out that this was a issue on car made before september 17, 2006 but my car was built in feb. 2007. So the dealership say it not that but it the exact problem. The service number is 08-052-06. So has anybody had the same issue i am having. I need help. It at the dealership now for a new battery and a oil change since they can't figure it out.
  • My 08 Caliber SXT sometimes hessitates to turn the starter when I engage the the starter with my key. When this happens I notice the remote for the doors won't work and the bell for the lights will go off with the keys removed and the door open. I have been back to my dealer several times and of course it doesn't happen when he looks at it. I believe it is the ignition switch going out because it senses the keys are in the ignition with it out because of the bell going off when I open the door and the keys are out and the lights are off. Anyone else have a problem with this? I am comming up on 36,000 miles and it will be out of warranty in 2,000 miles and I got a road trip next week that will put 3,000 miles on it.
  • porky15porky15 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Dodge Caliber. First the engine light would beep on and after a few days, it would turn off. That happened 3 times. Now when I turn on the left blinker, it starts out normal, then it beeps and the blinker starts blinking very quick. Any ideas on how to fix this and does anyone know if this is would be covered under the warranty? I have just under 30,000 miles. Thanks.
  • robkabobrobkabob Posts: 1
    I know how you feel because my caliber just got out of warranty and the same thing with the key is happening to me. It won't happen but a few times a month. I also think it may be the ignition switch. I have 34,000 miles on my 2007.
  • aviator62aviator62 Posts: 1
    I have a TIPM problem a few days ago, the dealer said that the TIPM has damaged and has to be change...

    My Caliber is a 07 SE year and version.

    An alarm shop installed a year and half ago a non factory buglar alarm.

    The alarm was conected to the red wire (power) in the starter cylinder (ignition switch) at steering column.

    -Does this power source (red) wire has any relation with the TIPM, Do you think conecting to feed the alarm to that power source can damage or over heat the Caliber TIPM or that wire is not related with the TIPM ?

    -Also, In what case has to be a Relay and in what zone has to be installed the relay when installing a buglar alarm in the Caliber?

    -After this, how important is to know the Caliber electrical system before installing an Alarm or it is like any other car electrical system?

    Thank you in advance my friends for your kind help.

  • So here is the problem. I have a 2007 dodge caliber SXT. Enough said at this point I think. Anyway, the first month and a half I had it, the vehicle stalled while I was taking a nice drive up a mountain. Dealership said nothing was wrong. Luckily that has not happened since, but I am in constant fear that it will do it again with my new born in the car. To make my nerves worse, my blinkers, high beams, and windshield wipers do not work. Periodically, they'll switch back into my control, but that is only short lived. When I have no control over it, the lights come on automatically, although they almost didn't come on when I was leaving work at night. Obviously the no blinker thing is dangerous in traffic and can cost me a ticket, and the no windshield factor is a major safety hazard. I tried disengaging the negative post on the battery, but that didn't work, and I am at my wits end since this has been going on for a year now. Should I put money into trying to find a solution, or trade it in? Or is there some secret that I don't know about? HELP!!!
  • pontecorvopontecorvo Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    Hi, my left hand headlamp does not turn on. The light turns on on the high beam. Is there a fuse for it? THe bulb is good
  • The left low beam was replaced a few times and blows out on 2nd on/off cycle. that occured a year ago and have been driving with highbeams.... now the left parking light is only on blinker.. "parking light" does not work.... is this a "multi-conductor plug" coming loose?? now no left lights.... help!!
  • Did you get an answer to this, pontecorvo? As I have the same issue now?! :(
    Can be reached at :)
  • Did you get an answer to this, pontecorvo? As I have the same issue now?!
    Can be reached at
  • I have the same problem with the headlamp too. I replaced it and examined the first bulb. The bulb appeared OK, and the new bulb had the same issue (no low, just high beam). I wouldn't think they are on different relay's or fuses, so the problem might be in the connector or wiring.
    I was hoping someone else has dealt with it, and has a solution.
  • I was wondering if you ever got any answers about your problems? My daughter bought a used 2007 Caliber & is having the same issues. Our mechanic can see nothing wrong when it was brought to him, of course everything was working at the time. She also looses the speakers to her radio. The other day she started the car & the wipers came on and off & the radio was flashing.
  • rhb35rhb35 Posts: 2
    It ended up being the wire harness. I had to go back several times untill it finaly was seen by the maitance department. Have them check that out.
  • fixitboyfixitboy Posts: 2
    No I did not get a firm answer, but some theories.
    If it truly is a wiring issue, an idea was to override dependency on the relay by cutting the hot wire to the light. Then you would splice the hot wire from the left headlamp and connect the splice to the right side headlamp. To ensure safety, you could place an in-line fuse in the newly installed run.
    If it is a computer problem, the issue is more complex. The repair would be a step by step attempt to correct the issue by 1) Disconnecting the battery terminals and either keep them separately disconnected overnight, or 2 ) disconnect and clamp them together for 10 minutes minimum. Both acts could theoretically reset the computer and corresponding DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) Code that was set originally (both did not work for me). I knew this because I checked it with an hand held diagnostic tool you can buy for about $49.
    The next step would be to ask the dealer to reset the computer. The dealer has a computer that can perform the task, but they may want to tell you what their theory is, and not do the repair.
    The last step is to replace the computer. I would think that is $700 to $1000 before all is said.
    I work for a company that makes the Chrysler Wireless ignition systems. We know how to reset DTC's and have the ability to do so if needed. Any DTC can be reset after making a repair or if it appears to be a false code as well. Our system talks to the car computer, and the computer runs certain Diagnostics through our unit to verify functionality. Tests such as TPM (Tire Pressure Monitor) and Rain Sensor on the newest vehicles are which run through the unit to check. Sometimes they will give a false reading, and we know this and reset them.
    My problem is that while I was experimenting the DTC for the Tranny came on, and it was not a false reading. The CVT Transmission blew in my Caliber, and now it sitting on the lawn waiting for a new/used one from Ebay. A belt blew and these things are virtually unserviceable. The bottom line is they are not great cars. The proof is the introduction of the Dodge Dart coming out soon to replace the Caliber. The Caliber was a lot of good ideas with a bunch of cheap parts, so it was doomed to fail. This is the Chrysler mindset, and I don't see it changing unless Fiat forces them in certain circumstances.
    Hope this helped.
  • Thank you. We'll have them check it out.
  • 08srt408srt4 Posts: 1
    Myself and my brother both have 2008 Caliber SRT4s and are having the same problems. There is a serious problem with the wiring harness on these cars and Chrysler won't admit it. I've had my computer replaced once, and in January 2012 I was told that my harness is corroded and needs to be replaced. I was told by the delaer that there isn't a wiring harness made as of yet so they did a temporary fix. I called Chrysler Canada and was told to bad so sad it's your problem. My brother was also told the same thing.

    Is there any known recalls for this?
  • mslady007mslady007 Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    My battery light is on. I just changed the battery and had the alternator checked. So was wondering what could be the problem. My car seems to run ok. Any suggestions?? It is a 2007 Dodge Caliber with l09,000 miles on it.
  • My brother bought a used caliber that worked fine for a couple months, then the fog lights went out. Whenever we hit the fog light indicator on the dash it light up but the actual lights wouldn't come on. We were on a tight budget so we tried doing some stuff ourselves. I noticed the car was shaking a little bit from the 'amazing' Firestone tires haha so we rotated those and bought our own installation kit for the headlights and they work fine.
  • vaati76vaati76 Posts: 1

    Okay, so I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber, and I was just using my car earlier today and it was working fine but when I turned on my car tonight, my headlights went on, and I could not turn them off, (and I don't have automatic headlights), I cannot turn on my high beams, I can not control the brightness of the lights inside the car, and I have no turn signals (but my 4-way flashers work). Does anyone have any ideas what it could be? My car starts fine and everything else seems to work.

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