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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

I have a 1998 Chevy Astro, 156,000m this is a recent issue where if it rains heavily during the night my van will not start at all the next morning, I dont seem to be able to hear the fuel pump engaging @ Key on position, I have checked and replaced the fuel pump relay, but still the same problem persists. I am not sure what the culprit could be as the only time i have trouble is when it is very wet out, this has happenned once before after getting to work and trying to leave to go to a jobsite.
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Comments

  • My Astro just started doing this last night. Does anybody have any ideas?
  • I have a 1994 Gmc Safari and I have replace the fuel pump and the fuel filter as well as the fuel pressure regulator I get fuel all the way up into the injector and into the fuel pressure regulator but it still wont start I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it starts until it evaporates then dies DOES ANYBODY HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ? :confuse: :mad:
  • I have a 1995 gmc safari... they recently change water pump, gas pump and filter but now its leaking gas down the exhaust.... does any one know why this is happening .... my van its been parked on my drive way for too long now and i miss it very much i need to get it running again before starts snowing please if anyone knows i will appreciate any recomendations.... i heard it could be the fuel presure regulator... what u think??? :cry:
  • Ok, people. I am new @ this. I am in dire need and I need help. I need a fuel pump for my 1998 GMC SAFARI. Problem is...they are prohibitively expensive and I am a poor parent of 3 children with 1 in college. Anyone has any idea on how to fix/replace the fuel pump in a fashion affordable to me? Thanx so much. Bye.
  • My 93 Astro 4.3L quit running one day and won't restart. It has 60 psi of fuel pressure and plenty of spark. It also shows a code 43 which is the electronic spark control system faulty. Replaced the ignition module to no aveil. Anybody have the same problem? :sick:
  • I have the same problem with my 2000 astro when it rains the fuel pump doesn't get any voltage. Please if anyone knows why please post it . Thank you
  • SO this test is to place a piece of wire or metal(something that will stay in place on it on...like an alligator clip and then hold the boot with a well insulated screwdriver (as in drapped over it ) and gradually move the tip away from the grounded metal surface.(Would insulated pliers help me hold/control it better?---If this is not a good result should I look at new wires or plugs(different brand or premium platinum) that give a better spark or what would help this? Or is there another part which provides this spark. I replaced the ignition coil already.

    If the fuel presssure leaks down before a couple of minutes does that mean the injectors are not providing enough fuel long enough? Could their signal be dropping out too soon or are they bad. Could this be the fuel pump. I heard from another mechanic that this system had lots of problems and has been updated. He was lobbying for work but did say as you that if I am going to do the work myself that to make sure I check everything out before I invest in the updated injectors system. Last time I checked it was about $520.00 and I think its a dealer only item. This current system is CMFI on the 1995 I have. In 1996 they went to CSFI and if it retrofits (and this is the solution maybe I could find a slavage one . The bad news would be if they just changedthe CMFI and only new will work.
    Thanks again...

    On the Explorer I was checking the IAC valve. Since I cleaned it out(carbon buildup) the idle is doing as you describe. It does go to about 1100 before settling down to about 600rpm. It actually was racing up before. I will continue to observe this and if it continues or reoccurs I will clean it again. It may need to be replaced. The TPS (throttle position sensor also had inconsistent voltage but with this improvement it may have nothing to do with the surging/racing idle at this point.
  • "If the fuel presssure leaks down before a couple of minutes does that mean the injectors are not providing enough fuel long enough? Could their signal be dropping out too soon or are they bad. Could this be the fuel pump."

    The fuel pressure leaking down means that the fuel injectors are leaking or their is a leak somewhere in the system. The leaking injectors can cause some flooding of the cylinders, depending on how bad it leaks, because the leaking fuel injector never completely closes and squirts some fuel when it supposed to be closed. The Fuel pressure should NOT leak down, but hold the same pressure for several minutes if the system is "tight" and not leaking. Most common leakage is through the injectors, there could be one or more that is not sealing closed due to dirt in the injector or a sticking injector. In these cases, inspection and cleaning of the injectors is recommended. Other sources of leakage (not common) can be leaking backpressure through the fuel pump or and an external leak. Sometimes the injectors short out and don't open, then it makes that cylinder run lean. I'm glad I drive a Ford, you may notice that the Fords seldom, if ever, have any fuel injection problems.

    On your Explorer, the IAC are common to need cleaning or replacement, poor idle is usually IAC or EGR system or vacuum leak.

    On my Explorer, my 2000 V8 5.0L is starting to give me a P0401 DTC, EGR insuffient flow, so I'll be having to clean the EGR and passages, maybe have to replace the Dpfe.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • The plan is to continue with the spark quality and further investigate the "leaking " of the fuel injector system after doing a leak down test on the Safari. This van was a freebie out of my father-in-laws shuttle service fleet and with the money I spent on getting it up to speeed I'll have just about bought it. Its probably going on the sale block as soon as I get it running...getting to the diminishing returns level.

    Its been a couple of days since I cleaned the Explorers IAC valve and the idle has been consistent so thats a good sign.

    We also have a 1998 V8 5.0L and I got that code and and it was the Fuel vapor management hose that was damaged. The unit itself broke while changing the hoses.They and the valve attachments are plastic and this truck has over 200K. It would be nice if I can help you with this information.
  • "We also have a 1998 V8 5.0L and I got that code and and it was the Fuel vapor management hose that was damaged. The unit itself broke while changing the hoses.They and the valve attachments are plastic and this truck has over 200K. It would be nice if I can help you with this information."

    That' nice but it's not a problem right now, it can wait a month or so until I have time to get to it. Right now we have all this Christmas stuff going on, and I just don't have time for anything, unless it's an emergency.

    Keep me posted on the GMC cause Im curious at to what you find, since we've been through almost everything so far.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • I pulled the intale manifold tunung valve off and as Lindertech suggested it should show carbon buildup inside the manifold but any wetspots would indicate a leak;I see some wetness.
    The leakdown of the fuel pressure was evident. The psi would rise up to 64 and fall back immediately to 58. It would fall to about 56-57 over the next several minutes. It is said that this system needs 60-61psi at a minimum for proper operation. After I rule out the spark as discussed I am going to pull the manifold and have a look at this fuel injection to be sure of the dampness I see. Its so cramped in the engine bay I am only able to view with a mirror.
    On our 98 V8 explorer by the way which is my wifes daily driver she has complained of a "whistling noise" for several weeks. I changed the chain tensioner and idler arm pullys, cleaned the MAF, throttle body and EGR valve, replaced all hoses and lubricated the drive belt. What else could be causing this annoying sound...fan cluth????
  • When does it make the whistling sound? At Idle? While standing still? While driving down the road? Does it come and go or change pitch or volume with a change in engine speed or with road speed? I am trying to rule out wind noises, as they have been a common complaint in the past.

    What is steering me away from the fuel injectors not being the reason for the NO START is the fact that you sprayed fuel in the intake and the engine still won't start, even with good cylinder compressions, This leads me to think that the ignition is the reason for the no start. The ignition needs to be confirmed before you tear into that fuel injection.
    If the injectors were not working, the engne would still fire and run for a second by spraying fuel in the intake.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Tested the spark length and consistently less than 1/2 inch some oblue mostly orange not pale. Interesting enough this is with new wires, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, So what does this tell me. Has it ever been better or is there a way to improve on this. I was particularly looking at no.1 cylinder since that was the one that was wet.

    Again there is a leakdown going on as the fuel pressure is not holding and an outside vlsual(not the most conclusive at this time)showed some dampness where it should be dry carbon buildup. So I am in the process of removing the intake plenum to get a better look. I will be looking closely at the fuel injection "spider"...one injector feeds six poppets. I am awaiting feedback from a supplier of refurbished unit to see if the regulator could just be replaced or does the entire unit. They sell a kit that includes all pieces. I really don't see any other direction to go unless you think the spark results are significant.(Please see above question...what can be done to improve a weak spark?)
    Taking a while due to the holidays and the stress of moving into a new home and boy do I need this vans space. To be continued....
  • Your spark is too weak. I checked the spark on my 2000 Explorer at terminal #1 of the coil pack, and it threw hot blue/orange sparks up to 1 1/2 inches long. I think your less than 1/2 inch sparks is only good for a lawn mower. You had better check your manual to see how to check and test the ignition system.
    If you can't find the problem, you can pull the cap and rotor, or maybe just pull the whole distributor out and take it down to the Autozone Store and let them test it. They can test the module, the pickup coil and the coil output. Does yours have the coil in the distributor cap?
    Here is the link to the Autozone repair info for the HEI ignition, it has a lot of information:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- 1/7d/1e/0900823d80117d1e.jsp

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Oh I forgot the other "great way" to test your ignition output voltage is one I found on that fuel injector site that you pointed me to at Linder Technical Services. Look under Bubbas Teknikal Tips, "Ignition Voltage Output Test"! I think if you throw the wrench over 30 feet, the ignition will be OK! The trick is to be sure that you use the Sears wrench!

    Here's the link!

    http://www.lindertech.com/bubba.htm
  • OK, so the sparks do not appear to be as strong as you describe they should be. SO what would make them weak? All the reading I have done on spark plug wires speaks to the resistence determination of spark. The new set vs. the old set was very close with the new set having slightly more. I changed them since they were the original set on the car when I received it and I did not know their age(GM uses AC Delco and that name was on them.) The only difference was the distributor to coil lead was significantly higher in resistence. Could the ignition switch have an influence even though I am getting a spark

    What should I be looking at now then concerning ignition. There was no mention of advice in your last post...
  • On the V8 Explorer the sound is standing still. When the truck was in for a recall the dealer said it was the belt tensioner and idler pulley. Another mechanic listened to it and said the alternator bearings were bad. After having the alternator bearings refurbished at the auto electric outfit I used the whistle remained. After changing the belt tensioner pulley a nd the idler pulley the noise remains. I wonder if the tensioner itself is the culprit...that I did not change?
  • My post was full of advice on what to do.
    Please read it again:
    "Your spark is too weak. I checked the spark on my 2000 Explorer at terminal #1 of the coil pack, and it threw hot blue/orange sparks up to 1 1/2 inches long. I think your less than 1/2 inch sparks is only good for a lawn mower. You had better check your manual to see how to check and test the ignition system.
    If you can't find the problem, you can pull the cap and rotor, or maybe just pull the whole distributor out and take it down to the Autozone Store and let them test it. They can test the module, the pickup coil and the coil output. Does yours have the coil in the distributor cap?
    Here is the link to the Autozone repair info for the HEI ignition, it has a lot of information:

    http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- - 1/7d/1e/0900823d80117d1e.jsp "

    #1 I said to Check the information at the Autozone website link that I posted, it has ALL the information that you need to check and diagnose the problem.
    #2 I said to Take the distributor down to the Autozone Store and let them check it, because they have the testing tools to check the PICKUP COIL, check the MODULE, and to check the IGNITION COIL.
    #3 You are checking the resistance of the wires and such, but you need to make sure the system components are working correctly to be sure the coil is putting out the Hot Spark that it is supposed to put out, over 40,000 volts. The specific components that need to be indivually tested are:
    A. The PICKUP COIL.
    B. The MODULE.
    C. The IGNITION COIL.
    The components can be tested with an ohm meter to see if they are in spec, but they need to also be tested with the proper electronic testers to be sure that they are performing properly. Then, the assembly all put together needs to be tested for total output. The Total Output Volts should be over 40,000 volts, there is a tool # J-26792 for testing the coil output.

    The best thing to do with it is to pull the distributor out and take it down to the Autozone and let them check the whole assembly. Just be sure you have it properly in time when you reinstall it.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Did they put a new serpentine belt on it?
  • I think I responded before I got your last post which as you say was chunk full of good info. Three autozones I called do not test distributors and one mechanic I was referred to says he needs the van..imagine that.

    I tested the pickup coil by (fig 12 on the auto zone site) and according to fig. 13 it needs replacing. I gave a spark with the 4terminal connector dosconnected and as well I found the new rotor I had put on after the no start problems started was also cracked...hmmm.

    The testing of the voltage of the ignition module has me confused No 4"Check volts at "+" and "C" and should I probe both together or probe one and apply the other lead to ground. When I did both methods I got less than 1 volt with the KOEO which indicates to repair wire from module. These two wire swhich connect the Ignition module and the new ignition coil showed .001ohms continuity. Does this appear too low?)but they are not open. I need to do step 5 in fig 13(hopefully my spark plug testor can suffice as a test light?)

    I did not change the serpentine belt when I changed the pulleys ...think I need to?
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