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GMC Safari/Chevy Astro Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

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  • Forgive me but I am a female and I may not know what some things are called but I do work on my cars. I had the same problem. First the altenator went and killed the battery. Replaced both. Simple enough. Then a few days later it completely stopped. The battery was low and I had to continuously charge the battery. Then finally no gas. Changed the fuel filter, the fuel relay, and finally the whole sending unit. Still no gas. Decided to look at the carburetor. I took some hoses and lines off to get to the carburetor. I could physically see that there was no gas going to the carburetor. I could feed it starting fluid it would start then die. So it sat in the driveway. Three months one of my other Chevy's lost the driveshaft. So I started working on the 11994 Chevy Astro. There is another module next to the fuel relay, upon inspecting it, there was very little power, replaced that. Also, on the cap of the fuel tank where the wires go to the sending unit, I had pulled one off, okay I pried it off with a screw driver. It was yellow, i had reattached it the wrong way. After all that, I finally heard the fuel pump humm. So now it is working, but I have some other issues. I had taken some lines off from the carburetor cover. Its a cirle piece and there is a line behind it CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THIS LINE GOES?????
  • Also, what is it called?
  • Fuel punps range around 25.00 dollars for your vehicle?
  • What do you mean leaking gas down the exhaust?
    You might have a gas line that is leaking inside the top intake cover. It is comon on all safari's. Aroung 250 in labor.
  • Does any one knows how to get compression on all cylinders without taking it to the shop? Any special liquids?
  • my 1998 astro van was fine when i went to work then that night, i went to go home and poof! it hasnt worked since. we got it home the next day but then it was towed to a auto parts store in town. they replaced the fuel pump and filter for a small (HA!) price and it still didnt work. they then replaced the ignition control module saying they go bad in astros and today we found out that didnt work. we want to know if anyone has had this problem and what you did to get it corrected & how much. the van has over 150,000 miles on it.the parts shop said it is in the scurity system somewhere they think but they dont know for sure. they do not have the equipment to test it and see what is wrong and where. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
  • my idle on my astro van 1995 is so rough when i am stopped at the light it turns off sometimes and when it is parked it is also very rough, i do not know what to do but when it is moving it is very smooth. can some one please help thank you
  • First off get the van out of that shop ASAP and do not pay them a dime as they have not fixed anything. They are just throwing parts at it until it starts. This method will cost you big time.

    Step one is it not getting fuel ? Or is it no Spark ? An easy way to test is will the van run on ether (staring fluid). If it runs then the problem is no Fuel. If it doesn't then it is spark.
  • I have the same problems. Whenever it's damp outside, the van will not start. I have brought it to the mechanics several times and still have not figured out the problem. As I can see, this is a problem with the safaris and the astro vans. Has anyone been able to diagnose the problem?
    If so, please respond because I have 4 kids and I need my van!
  • jateegeejateegee Posts: 1
    Okay, I'll try to keep this short, but i dont want to leave anything out.
    93 Safari Engine Code Z. Bought for four hundred bucks 2 years ago, never laid down on me till last wednesday. best vehicle i have ever had.

    Stalling at idle and low revs

    It just quit on the way too work. Pulled over, looked for obvious under the hood. Nothing. Magically it restarted. I drove to work. That day on the way home, it quit. Did not restart. Got a ride home. The next day i went back to where I left it. this was 12 hours later. it started. I drove it back to work and left it in the heated garage. i will mention that temps have been just around the freezing mark, but this seems to have no bearing on it. At work I park in a heated garage where temps are around 60f. At home I park outside. I removed the doghouse, spent the afternoon poking around. Never started. Not once. This was after I drove it back to work that morning. The next day, I brought my mechanic friend in. He figured it was the fuel pump. It only seemed to prime intermittently, and the the mallet on the gas tank trick didn't really work. I had it towed home. Luckily i have a large shop where i live. Assuming it was the pump. I proceeded to remove and replace the pump, sending unit, tank (I had a brand new one laying around) and the filter. Yippee!! All done!! Its starts!! yahoo!! STALL!!
    Next. Now it wont start again. I then proceeded to flight test some of my tools. Hmmmmm. Having a closer look, we noticed no fuel spray at all from the injectors when the starter is engaged. OK. Check the voltage. I have 12V at the injectors, but no pulse. I do not have a noid light but i dont think i need one. We unplugged the idle air controller. BAM!! it starts, runs, does not stall. Let the engine get good and hot, plug the IAC back in, idles down real smooth and nice. now it will restart when i Shut it off with the IAC plugged in (I should mention I had a recent oil change, new plugs, cap and rotor. And the van has been exhibiting these symptoms of stalling for a few weeks before any of that, or the fuel system work was done.)
    So i had a used IAC. Tried that, seemed to work for a bit but in the end it still is stalling. My buddy works at a GM dealer, so he orderd me a new one. I drove to his place of employment this morning onmy way to work to pick up the new IAC. By then, the engine is good and hot. I put the part in right there. Idles down nice and low drove the LONG way to work. About a half hour. Never stalled once. I went out to the garage several times today and it started every time. Five oclock i got to leave. Start, reverse, STALL.
    Tom the security gaurd, was watching. He found it rather amusing. I didnt, I lost it. I unplugged the IAC started it, left a strip of rubber about forty feet long in our newly surfaced indoor parking garage, said a bunch of things to Tom that even going to church would never excuse. Boy, am I ever gonna have to apoligize to him tommorow. Yikes. I dont think I have a vaccum leak either, not totally sure, but I left the van over night on the weekend, and first thing I did in the morning before trying to start i was to unplug one of the hoses (small one) from the cruise control servo. It was holding there any way.
    I was starting to think this was a hot/cold engine problem but it doesnt seem to matter wether the engine is hot or cold.
    Someone help.
    I just had a brainstorm. Do i need to unplug the ecm fuses inorder to clear any fault codes before the ecm will recognize the new IAC? I do not have a scanner, just the little metal key. Is there any web pages that give you what the engine ligh flashing sequences are?
    :confuse: :mad: :sick: :lemon:
  • scol01scol01 Posts: 1
    I've had a 98 Astro for 4 years and first had starting problems 6 months after I got it. After changing numerous things, the problem was fixed with a new cap and rotor. Apparently the vent holes in the distributor base get plugged up so there is no air flow inside the cap. This allows moisture to build up and it is hard to start. Before you install the new cap and rotor, punch out the small screens in the vent holes to allow air to circulate. Hope this helps!
  • gquigleygquigley Posts: 1
    i am having the same exact same problem. does anybody have any
    advice.
  • crivercriver Posts: 2
    My 95 safari did the same thing. A heat gun on the engine for 10 minutes allowed me to start. I'm thinking electrical. Changed the cap and rotor, which looked bad, but same problem. I sprayed a little water here and there, (cover removed, job-and-a -half that is) and as soon as the coil got a bit wet the engine died. Bought a $40 coil and she starts fine
  • crivercriver Posts: 2
    I had the same problem this rainy winter. Changing an ugly rotor and cap did not help but changing the coil cured it. They seem to absorb moisture after time and weaken the spark. About 40 to 50$ if you change it yourself. Getting the engine cover off is a chore the first time.
  • bnbthlbnbthl Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. Mechanic has not figured it out. Is your problem resolved and what was it..?
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    I had stalling problem and check engine light appeared w/'95-removal/clean EGR corrected both after using 2 pronged metal key.
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    Cleaning the EGR valve worked for me.
  • 19771977 Posts: 5
    Could the fuel pump "hum" be heard when ignition was first turned on before you decided to replaced it-no hum no pumping.
  • I have same problem with stalling with my safari 93 code Z. I got a trouble code 53 low fuel pump voltage. I have no problem with starting, it stall when I take my foot off the gas peddle. It run rough. Can anyone help? I change fuel filter, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, ignition cable, distributor caps and rotor. It will run if I keep my foot on the gas peddle.
  • I have same problem with stalling with my 92 Astro code Z but I did not get a check engine light. The symptoms started with stalling when you would shift it in gear and
    two months later the car would slightly rough idled when the car stared but when the car engine go up to temperature the van would completely stall out. You would have to pump the gas to keep it going.

    I started by replacing spark plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor, ... but none of it made a difference.

    What I had over looked was that the vacuum elbow that connects to the carburetor and goes to the PCV value was cracked. When I went to check all of the vacuum connections it crumbled. Old Car!

    So I bought some tube and replaced the elbow and the tube connection to the PCV value just to be complete.

    The van runs great now! :)
  • mechonemechone Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 GMC Safari van. Today my van died on me while idling on a encline driveway for about 3 mins. My van will crank all day but wont start. I have checked the coil and not getting any spark from it. I swapped it with a known good one off my other old van and I still have the same problem. I even swapped the ignition control module. Still no spark.

    Is there a fuse that would control this?

    Does the coil and control module have to be mounted for a good ground to work?

    I check for a spark by unplugging the spark plug wire from the distrubitor and holding near the manifold and cranking the engine.

    Where else should I check?
  • mechonemechone Posts: 4
    Found the problem :)
    Blown fuse in the engine capartment
    ALL GOOD NOW!
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    I have an 96 Safari van that it started and then quit. It was the ignition coil that was replaced. If you do it yourself it is under $100. If you have a Tuffy's near buy they will check it for free.
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    I would have the ingition coil check. Also, check your fueld injector system. Take to a Tuffy's if you have one they will check for free.
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    It could be the ignition coil.
  • lslllsll Posts: 18
    You could have a small hole in a hose somewhere. If it is going down then it is in the front.
  • Help, I just spent all day trying to get my truck to run. It started fine this morning. Then 30 seconds down the road the engine quit running. Then it is very hard to get started. It cranks fine. I replaced the cap and rotor, fuel filter and made sure I can hear the fuel pump. I can use starting fluid to get it started (sometimes) and then it will idle for an hour. As soon as I start to drive it dies. If I take the key out of the ignition and wit a minuet it starts if not it just keeps cranking. I would apreciate any help or suggestions. the check engine light does not come on. No codes. thanks
  • My 96 astro is frequently difficult to start. I do hear the fuel pump run before starting (but not as long as it used to run for).

    Sometimes it takes 4-6 attempts to get it started, other time just one. It seems the longer it sits the harder it is to start.

    Fuel filter was replaced and no difference. Should I just get a new pump or could it be another problem?

    Thanks
    Tom
  • I have a 99 GMC Safari (133,000 miles). Every so often (4-5 weeks) it doesn't start. After a day or so it starts & runs fine. I think it is electrical. The fuel pump was replace due to low pressure, so that doesn't seem to be the problem. What is the life on the ignition coil, rotor etc. Any suggestions or similair experiences ?
  • I have a 98 astro van just cranks over fuel pump ok new fuel filter, plugs, cap, wires, have fuel and spark but no start has 75,000 miles on it well maintainted. after tring to start it with dog house off. not turning off the key I hear a couple clicks which Im pretty sure is normal the a electrical pop noise some where by the distrutor
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