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Honda Accord Engine Questions

2

Comments

  • tg1994tg1994 Posts: 8
    I've got 1000 miles on my new 2007 Accord and I've noticed there is significant engine noise especially at low speeds. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this normal or should I be concerned there might be a problem?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You will get a better response on the 2007 Accord Maintenance and repair forum. What kind of noise is it? What engine do you have? If you have the 4cyl, you should be able to hear the engine, but it should not be loud, or something I would consider to be noise. If you have the V6, you should not even hear the engine, unless the accelerator is close to the floor, and nothing I would consider sounding like noise. Did you take it back to the dealer?
  • tg1994tg1994 Posts: 8
    I have the 4 cyl 2.4 liter. It's a whining noise. I've experienced the noise before on my Altima. It signaled the alternator going out. That is why I am concerned. It may be perfectly normal...I'm just not used to it. Thanks for the advice about the Maintenance and Repair forum. I'll post there as well.
  • loubieloubie Posts: 1
    It sounds like my 2007 Accord EX. The noise is noticeable when the engine is warm and idle. It sounds like a helicopter. I started to hear it after 600 miles. Now with 10,000 miles on it, it's much louder. The noise is not coming from the injectors. Honda knows about the noise, but they decided not to do anything about it, so they claim it's normal. The noise happens in some 4-cyl engines. It's easier to hear it if you put you ear close to the floor in the driver foot-area. I recommend that b4 12000 miles or a year from purchase, you take the car to the dealer and make sure they record the complaint in the work-order, even if they don't fix it. In that way you'll have a fighting chance with the lemmon-law, like I'm doing now.
  • 44k miles on my 2003 Accord. While I was out of town, wife noted s little oil in the garage....wiped up with 2 paper towels. Contacted Honda and checked oil level (fine) before driving to the Honda service shop 3 miles away. After 2 miles, she lost all power, no engine lights or other idiot lights lit.

    Honda sez there was a catastrophic oil loss and filter was incorrectly installed and failed. Oil filter was buldged out at end, a sign of major oil pressure. Honda sez gasket was incorrectly installed by quick lube guys.

    Quick lube guys (oil change 4k miles ago) say oil pump pressure relief valve stuck and that blew oil filter due to high pressure.

    Any ideas on how I independently can confirm what happened???

    Honda sez timing belt broken and crankshaft bent...engine is fried and will cost $7000 for rebuild...

    Thanks, John
  • blackexv6blackexv6 Posts: 490
    I guess its a lesson learned. Get your oil changes and service done at your Honda dealer for $24.95. They would have acknowledged the error and paid 100% for the engine.

    Now, at best you can try to get the "quick lube" shop to call their liability insurance company. $7000 is probably half to 75% the value of your car.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I guess its a lesson learned. Get your oil changes and service done at your Honda dealer for $24.95. They would have acknowledged the error and paid 100% for the engine.

    That would be logical if every dealer charged $24 for an oil change. Unfortunately my dealer recently changed hands, and prices for oil changes went from $23.95 to $38. Outrageous. I'll be going there for the length of my warranty, then I'll have it changed elsewhere. I'm already taking my old 1996 (174,750 miles) to Texaco/Jiffy Lube.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    44k miles on my 2003 Accord. While I was out of town, wife noted s little oil in the garage....wiped up with 2 paper towels. Contacted Honda and checked oil level (fine) before driving to the Honda service shop 3 miles away. After 2 miles, she lost all power, no engine lights or other idiot lights lit.

    Honda sez there was a catastrophic oil loss and filter was incorrectly installed and failed. Oil filter was buldged out at end, a sign of major oil pressure. Honda sez gasket was incorrectly installed by quick lube guys.

    Quick lube guys (oil change 4k miles ago) say oil pump pressure relief valve stuck and that blew oil filter due to high pressure.

    Any ideas on how I independently can confirm what happened???

    Honda sez timing belt broken and crankshaft bent...engine is fried and will cost $7000 for rebuild...

    Thanks, John


    I don't think your engine has a timing belt. If you have K-series engine, which I think was introduced on the 2002 CR-V/Element and was installed on the 2003 Accord, then you definatly have a timing chain.

    Did you see the buldged out filter? I think, ultimatley, it is Honda vs the Jiffy lube. After seeing the hidden camera videos from Jiffy Lube, I would not doubt that Honda will win.

    Let us know how it goes.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Luckily, the dealer where I bought mine does free changes for life as long as you go in and do the 15,000 mile maintenance intervals. I'm willing to do it. I mean going in every 4,000 miles will help me to keep informed about what is going on with it. I expect that I will be asking them to check things out when I go in just to avoid having the same thing happen to me.

    Sorry to hear about the original poster's misfortune.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well it is suspicious to me that they are claiming that an oil change 4K miles ago, is the cause of this problem. You would think that if something was wrong with the change, it would show in the first month and 500 miles of the change.

    Unfortunately, I'm not sure how you could prove or disprove anything at this point. Either way it's outside of the warranty period, correct....so Honda isn't on the hook to HAVE to pay for anything.

    You might consider replacing the engine with one from a pre-owned wrecked vehicle (side or rear).
  • my car rpm was going up and down but i took care of that now if im just park and i acelerated the car to 4000 rpm or anithing and hold my gas pedal on a specific rpm my rpm guage goes up and down ,also when im driving my car runs fine for a moment but then it stall so i stop pressing the gas pedal and then pressed again but it does the same i"ve been trying to figure out was wrong but cant find the problem please i need help some body please thanks for your time
  • hi! can someone help me with the strange noise on my honda accord 97 model. it sounds like my bearing squeaking and usually when the engine is warm already, if i step on the gas. the sound will disappear. i tried changing bearings from timing belt, also water pump and, still the sound is there. i believe its on the left side part of the engine (facing the engine). is it my transmission? i have automatic transmission.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the accessories belt off, start the engine, and see if the sound is gone. If it is, then one of your accessories (or the tensioner) is bad. Turn the pulleys by hand, and see if you can feel or hear the problem.

    If it doesn't stop, then the problem is internal to engine or transmission.

    External accessories are usually the problem.
  • caryakcaryak Posts: 2
    I'm having the engine on my 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder sedan replaced (turns out it had a blown head gasket when I bought it and the engine had been seriously abused. Just easier to replace it.) The problem is, there is a connection at the very back of the engine, underneath the plenum, that doesn't seem to have anything to connect to. The Honda dealership/maintenance guys say that yes, it is supposed to connect to something. We've looked in the aftermarket maintenance books and can't find anything. When we disconnected those connectors from the original engine, one of them totally disintegrated. At present, the newly installed engine won't start. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Hey all-

    I just have a question. Yesterday I was on a website comparing these two vehicles and it said that the 03 was rated at 160 Horsepower at 5500 rpm and the 2008 is rated at 190 Horsepower at 7000 rpm. It makes sense that there would be more power at higher rpm's, but wouldn't most people want to keep the engine out of redline? Isn't that what we're always told to protect the engine?

    Anyway, since the one is rated 160 at 5500 and the other is rated 190 at 7000 wouldn't that mean that they are both about the same? I'm not positive about this, but it's just been something I've wondered about.

    Thanks to any who respond.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    They are both 2.4 liters. The torque is about the same. I would think the 190 would be more fun with a manual and less noticible with an auto. Search the threads,someone was comparing them and/or test drive them both in you preferred configuration to see which you prefer for the money.
  • hi kiawah! thank you for replying to my problem.. i'm not really sure but my suspect is it might be my transmission.. any ideas how i can fix that? or how much would it cost to fix that?

    When i try to put my gear from neutral/drive to D4 of the engine. it would take about 1.5 seconds to accelerate.. is this also a problem? tnx..
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    the 2008 is rated at 190 Horsepower at 7000 rpm. It makes sense that there would be more power at higher rpm's, but wouldn't most people want to keep the engine out of redline?

    It's close, but not quite redline. Redline starts at 7100rpm.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    tankbeans,

    Not to nitpick, but the 2003 Accord LX actually has closer to 156 horsies based on the new rating system for hp (if you are comparing apples-to-apples - the 2008 Accord uses the new SAE test procedures for hp).

    Also, the 2008 Accord LX has 177hp, not 190hp. The EX and EX-L models have the 190hp at 7000 RPM. The LX model's 177hp engine doesn't rev quite as high.
  • You say tomata I say tomota. ;) I was just curious. I thought it was weird that they would rate one at 5500 and the other at 7000. That must just be the new standard for rating. Not that it's important or anything like I said I was curious.

    Just so we're on the same page, the numbers I was looking at were on www.kbb.com comparing a 2003 LX Coupe I4 with a 2008 Coupe LX-S w/out PZEV, the LX-S seemed to be the closest match to what I have. Both were automatic. I went to the compare section to get the info. I know that site is wrong about a lot of things, but I would think those numbers would be fairly close.

    I don't know how to link to other websites or I would have.

    They are mostly wrong with accessories. Like with mine it said that the immobilizer wasn't available and I have it. Anyway you can look and tell me I'm looking at the wrong numbers. I guess it's just a case of curiosity killed the cat.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've gotcha now. When you said just "LX" I was thinking Sedan (the only model that comes designated as such now). All 4-banger coupes have the 190hp engine.
  • Sorry about that. I just assumed that they would have the same engine specs. I forget that they are completely different now. The two new Accords Coupe vs. Sedan don't even share the same lights. I know with all the options available it is very confusing to try and figure out what is what.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    no problemo! Merry Christmas!
  • hi guys, happy holidays! can someone help me with the strange noise on my honda accord 97 model. it sounds like my bearing squeaking and usually when the engine is warm already, if i step on the gas. the sound will disappear. i tried changing bearings from timing belt, also water pump and, still the sound is there. i believe its on the left side part of the engine (facing the engine). is it my transmission? i have automatic transmission.
    i'm not really sure but my suspect is it might be my transmission.. any ideas how i can fix that? or how much would it cost to fix that?
    When i try to put my gear from neutral/drive to D4 of the engine. it would take about 1.5 seconds to accelerate.. is this also a problem? tnx..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When i try to put my gear from neutral/drive to D4 of the engine. it would take about 1.5 seconds to accelerate.. is this also a problem? tnx..

    This operates just as my 1996 2.2L Accord LX does. That isn't a problem, just the nature of the transmission - it takes a moment to engage. I have 177k miles on my Accord, and the transmission has NEVER been a problem.

    I can't answer your other questions, but they might be able to in the 1994-1997 Honda Accord Maintenance and Repair forum. Good luck! :)
  • tnx for the advice thegraduate.. i'll try to check on that forum. btw, when i try to bring it to a mechanic before, they cannot find where the sound is coming from. so weird. :D
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    That is odd. Best of luck accord 97, sorry I couldn't help you any more; I'm not very mechanically inclined!
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I have a stupid question, but it's something that's been nagging at me. What the heck do the liters in an engine correspond to? I mean what does it mean? I know that the greater number of liters means the larger the engine and the more gas you're going to use, generally. I don't think it corresponds to the amount of gas in the engine at any given time and I know that it doesn't correspond to the amount of fluid, transmission, coolant, brake fluid, etc. I'm a moron I know, but this is been a question that's nagged at me since I started driving. This may one for the gear-heads out there who really understand the internal combustion engine.

    By the way, lest ye get offended, being a gear-head isn't meant as an insult.

    I know this a completely random question, but I've wondered for a long time and have never gotten a straight answer.

    The last answer I got was that a liter equaled 56.5 cubic inches, but that still doesn't make sense.

    Signed,
    Confused Automotive Moron :blush:
  • you know that your engine has pistons, and the pistons move up and down in their cylinders.
    When the piston moves from top to bottom, it sucks in a certain amount of air. How much air it can suck in depends on how big around the piston is, and how far it moves when it goes from top to bottom.

    Let's say that the piston in your car is 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) in diameter (also known as the bore), and it moves 4 inches from top to bottom (also known as the stroke). That means that one piston in your engine can suck in:

    radius ^ 2 * pi * height = volume of a cylinder
    5.08 cm (bore/2) ^ 2 * 3.14 * 10.16 cm (stroke) = 823.3 cubic centimeters

    If your car has 4 cylinders, then it has a has a total displacement of:

    4 * 823.3 cubic centimeters = 3,292.1 cubic centimeters, or 3.292 liters

    A car manufacturer would round that up and say that your car has a 3.3-liter engine. This means that the displacement of this particular engine is 3.3 liters. If you were to turn the crankshaft of this engine through two complete revolutions, the four pistons would inhale a total of 3.3 liters of air.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    For example, the capacity of the Accord's "2.4L" engine is actually 2,354 cubic centimeters.
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