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Lincoln LS random misfire

13

Comments

  • I had a similar problem, with a miss on one of the back cylinders. The dealership wanted $1400 to replace all 8 coil packs. The said once oil was gets on the coil packs form leaking valve cover gaskets, they would soon fail. I do not know if this 100% accurate. I decided to replace the all the valve cover gaskets (source of the oil getting on the coil packs) and all 8 packs myself. That was one year ago and no problems since. I have a friend who has replaced just one coil pack and did just fine.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    Does anyone have any experience buying coil packs off ebay?
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    I have a 2002 V8 Sport w/ 115,000 miles. My valve cover gaskets were replaced at about 65,000 miles. I now have an intermetent missfire which seems to happen when in a higher gear and accelerating. Engine is smooth at idle and when accelerating normally up thru the gears. I'm guessing I have a COP problem. What I'd like to know is how much stuff has to be removed before you can take the center part of the valve covers off to do the COP replacement job. I long for the old days with points, rotor, condenser, and one $10 coil bolted to the front of the engine.
  • The COP covers are not difficult to remove. The right (passenger) side is a 10 minute job. All you need is a 7mm socket with an extension. Quarter inch drive is best because it is smaller. An open end 7mm wrench is nice to have, too, especially on the driver's side.

    The left side is tighter but you don't really need to remove anything. It is more a matter of loosening some things so you can move them a bit. The bracket on top of the strut tower can just be loosened so it will move out of the way. The dipstick tube will move aside slightly without taking it out. The cover on the left side will come out by pulling it forward and up. It looks more difficult than it is. The COPs are held in place with one screw and the electrical clip.

    Compared to replacing the valve cover gaskets, removal of the COP covers is a piece of cake.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    Thanks for the info but even if you can get the covers off without removing any other parts I don't see room to get my hands in there to work on the COPs.
  • It is a bit tight. A few scapes and scratches are par for the course. Really, though, it isn't as bad as it looks. Once the covers are off and the coil connections are free, the coils pull up and out. The coil boots are 6-8 inches long but are flexible.

    The first time I had a misfire, I had the dealer do a stress test and he found one bad coil. They participated in an After Warranty Adjustment on that one. Later I had another one go bad so I decided to change the remaining seven myself. I had already changed the plugs once so I knew what I was getting into but had no way to figure out which coil was actually the culprit. Eventually, they all seem to fail anyway.

    An independent shop might not be too spendy. I don't know what the flat rate manual would say in terms of the time needed for labor but I doubt if it would be more that a couple of hours - just a guess.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    I would still like to find out if anyone have any experience purchasing COPs from online dealers selling on ebay? Are they seconds, Chinese, parts that didn't pass QE or are they just fine. Dealers on ebay are selling these things for $150 a set of 8. Parts stores in Maryland want $56. Ford dealers want $76 and independent repair shops want a wopping $96 each and that's when you have them do the job. Big difference between $150 a set and almost a grand a set. The name of one of the ebay dealers is World Autoparts. Thanks.
  • I have had no experience in buying COPs on ebay. Hopefully, someone else can chime in. I bought mine from NAPA - their own brand - for around $45 each.
  • I was sitting on some ice and couldn't move because of the rear wheel drive so I reved the engine probably more than I should have, but after I freed myself, the rpms were high and at idle it's kinda rough. It feels like it's misfireing too at higher speeds. Hope I didn't mess up the transmission. I just had my ignition coils replaced a month ago. Last week it was in for a rear brake problem. I'm a non-mechanical woman so any help would be helpful before I take it in on Monday.
  • Sounds very familiar. Mine did the same thing... turned out to be a bad alternator.
  • hey i read your post first always check for a loose connection if its not that it is deff the altinator same thing happend to me in the middle of an intersection if it was your battery or a loose connection your car more than likely wouldnt have started in the first place however after you replace the altinator you may need a new battery as well. but first try to recharge the old one
  • READ THIS HELP ME!

    When it all started it was a faint grinding noice i heard every 30 seconds when i was just idleing at a light or just rollin whithout applyin tha gas than a few thousand miles down tha rd. it did it more often and when i stop it progresses into a boiling sound?
  • LS2000LS2000 Posts: 1
    If somebody by chance reads this please help me. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS that is my Baby i love her so much and i don't want to have to sale her but there are so many problems I've had to deal with. I've have had it worked on so many times but i think the people are just screwing me out of money and i need some real help. When I'm driving down the road and i go to pass somebody it will start jerking and just shut off. It's like the passing gear is gone. I've had the coils changed but I'm still having problems somebody please help me.

    AK
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    I thought I would stop back and let the group know of my experiences. A store did a scan and told me I had a miss in 3 and 7. I bought a couple of coils from a seller on ebay who had genuine Ford COILS for $30 each. It took me a few hours to install each one and I have a 1/4" socket set and a 7mm wrench. The tough cover bolts were the bottom rear on each side. I used to be a motorhead having owned a 55 Chevy, 60 Corvette and a 65 Griffith (289 Ford powered sports car) and I don't know how guys work on these things every day. Royal pain in the a--. It seems to me that manufactures just design these things to make money after the sale and these coils are a prime example. I read where COPs are used to save the car owner money in spark plug wire replacements. Well hell how can replacing these things be cheaper ($1200 for a full set at a dealer) or replacing one $20 coil that sits on top of an engine and a set of plug wires. I sure hope I don't have anymore of these things fail for a while. Thanks to the posters who offered the tips.
  • My 2003 LS had engine coils #3,4, 5,6 replaced April, June, and Oct. 2008 respectively. At the dealer the part was $99 and labor was $371 --$470 a pop! I was laid off my job and unemployment benefits are limited. I cannot afford a dealer repair. Does anyone know of a "good" mechanic that works on Lincolns in Wash., DC, Montgomery County or Prince George's County Maryland?
    Thanks,
    Sue
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    And dealers wonder why customers hate their asses. Ford's list price on those coils is $75 and that's high enough. For them to overcharge you by 30% is pretty sad. Why not post the name of these swell folks so others can avoid the place. Can't help you with the name of a mechanic. When I found out the raping I would take by having these things installed I bought a couple off ebay and installed them myself. Took a few hours for each one since they were on different banks but I take a lot of breaks.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,016
    I suggest you post a review for the dealership.

    Dealer Ratings and Reviews

    And go here to find a repair shop in your area. Hopefully, there may be some reviews for a good one.

    Repair Shop Location and Reviews

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • jbr2jbr2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 LS with about 34,000 miles. I get the random misfire at speeds over 45 MPH. How can I determine which cylinder(s) are misfiring? MY OBD II scanner indicates that there are no trouble codes present.
  • I got a computer diagnostic stating misfire in number 6. Would the number 6 be located on the driver side closet to the windshield?

    I want to do a full tune up. What all should I do/replace for a full tune up?

    Thanks
  • I have a 2005 Lincoln LS sport and was told today that I have a misfire on 4 of 8 cylinders. I was going to just replace all 8 coil packs does anyone know of any cheap places to get all eight?
  • I just dropped one in from Autozone - $45
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 898
    You can get them cheap on EBAY but most are made in China and I'm not sure about the quality. I bought mine from a Ford dealer online and paid around $60 each.
  • I had been having similar problems with my 2000 LS...I had replaced several coil packs over the last couple of years...this seemed to solve the problem for a while then the car started idling very rough...i figured it was another coil problem...the dealer had the car for several weeks trying to diagnose the problem...with no luck. I finally took it home and drove it as is for almost a year...a loud knock started after a few months. not so loud at first then became worrisome. A mechanic friend of mine listened to it and told me he thought the engine was shot. But, i gave the dealership another go and let them keep it for a while longer...after several more weeks of diagnosing they came to the conclusion that the timing belt tensioner was loose making the knocking sound in the engine and also throwing the car slightly out of time (hence the misfiring)...this turned out to be a $700 fix, but it's running beautifully again. Now if i can figure out why it overheated the other day...(This car is driving me nuts, but i love it and can't let it go)
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 898
    The cooling system on these cars needs to be bled if it has been drained and refilled. Maybe the dealer drained it when they worked on it and didn't bleed it correctly?
  • charles101charles101 Posts: 1
    Its easy to change the 3rd cylinder, because its on the passenger side and that side is easy to get to. You will need 7mm wrench and socket 1/4 drive, 10mm socket and wrench, gaskets set complete, spark plug, for cylinder 3. I highly recommend changing all coil packs, my old saying is did it done and gone! Wish you the best
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,699
    Surely mookie3 has already had that fixed in the 4 years since he posted it......
  • lincman1lincman1 Posts: 1
    The steering snatches or feels like there is a notch in the first few degrees of wheel movement. Worse to the LHS. Research indicates it is the steering wheel posn sensor at fault. Where is the posn sensor located? Any tips on how to replace it? Thanks.
  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    My best guess is, since you have no errors showing up, it's not missing any charge at the coils so, likely it's the spark plugs well(s) collecting oil. This is very common, the valve cover gasket set includes 4 round spark plug gaskets which fail in time. As they fail, oil seeps into the spark plug cavity and continues to collect oil until there's just enough to ground out the ignition spark from the coil spring/boot to the spark plug tip.

    Many folks just replace all the coils then later find out they performed a completely wasted repair. While you are in the valve galley, I recommend you check out the secondary timing chain tensioner as they are prone to early failure and are basically right there in front of you once you spend the time to get the valve covers off. This is on 3.9 V-8's. If you have a V-6, forget the above as they don't usually have this oil seepage and chain issue.
  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    Talk to the service manager, 95% of the labor to get to coils is removing the valve covers. Once you do, the coils are less than 1 minute to R&R.
  • jen0jen0 Posts: 10
    Hello - I have a 2002 LS (V8) These cars are know for electrical problems. I have had the car for five years and I just hit 209,000 miles. Half of my electronics don't work anymore, for example my drivers side heated seat, the controls in my steering wheel, i.e. crusie control, radio volume, etc. I jsut replaced my windshield wiper motor went- that was a real joy to fix. My newest problem is that my heat isn't working very good. When I start my car in the morning to warm up it doesn't blow warm air. It has gotten worse over the past month - actually after I had my windshield wiper motor replaced it got worse. They had to take off my radiator fluid overflow to get to the windshield wiper motor so I wondering if they did something to it. Before it would blow somewhat warm air but now it's cool. When I start to drive it warms up a bit but not much. Before it heated up alot more. I don't know what's up. I think it may be a air pocket somewhere in the line. Anyone have any suggestions how to get the air out? without bringing to a mechanic?? I live in New England and I need heat!!
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