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Toyota Camry Starting / Stalling Questions



  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706

    Stalling the engine as you shift into a low(er) gear range is more likely the result of a HIGH clutch coupling level, clutch not full/properly disengaging,.....not indicative of a worn out clutch.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    "clutch" usually means either the disk or the pressure plate. So a worn, malfunctioning pressure plate would create a similar stall situation, as the clutch disk would not fully disengage....similar to a faulty clutch hydraulic system.


  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    In my 61 years of driving I don't believe I have EVER had a clutch fail "closed". As you point out, a hydraulic actuating system low on fluid, or a needed adjustment of the mechanical actuating system, would be the most likely culprit.

    Clutch: Flywheel, friction disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    Well I've had a few...if the pressure plate fails, or the throwout bearing seizes and disintegrates, or the clutch fork starts to crack and give at the pivot--you'll get these very same symptoms as described.

    Depends on the type of car you drive---some are quite prone to this type of failure. I remember Isuzu Rodeos were notorious for it.


  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I have to take that back...

    The exploding rubber center in my '78 Targa....EXPLODED.

    Rubber debris between the clutch disk and pressure plate.
  • I have a 1995 Camry 2.2l engine my car did the same , I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the problem was fixed.
  • vkyvky Posts: 2
    A few days ago (Jan 31, 2012) I was picking my daughters up from school. I turned the 2011 Camry off and got my girls. I got be in the car and as I went to turn the car on I stepped on the brake and noticed the brake was very close to the floor, and the car would not turn on. I had to tap the brake and also turned the ignition 2 or 3 time before the car came on.

    On Feb 4, 2012. My car was being washed and the alarm came on. The alarm was turned off and the washing continued. The car was later moved into the drive way and then back on the street. When I went to move the car from the street I put my foot on the brake and noticed again, that the brake was close to the floor. I tried to turn the ignition switch but could not. The wheels (due to a slight downhill incline) was turned into the curve. I could not move the steering wheel or turn the ignition switch.

    I was told by the dealership to get in the car and lock all the doors using the alarm/key. I did that but it did not work. My car is still sitting there not working. The only thing I can turn on is the lights and the alarm.
    I will have it towed to the dealership tomorrow.

    I don't think its the battery (too new for that, unless its defective), I thought it was the alarm. Its like it killed the entire car.

    Has this happened to anyone else?
  • I have a 2002 Camry XLE, 4 cylinder.
    About a month ago, it would not start in the morning (housed in the garage).
    AAA jump started it; jump started results: Starter Test: voltage 9.37, amps0.1, time 1.10.
    Charging system test: No Load 14.31, 0.5 A; loaded 14.30, 0.6 A. (lights on).
    Drain test: 0.02A.

    Car seemed fine and started well ... until yesterday, when it would not start in a store parking lot, outside temperature around 35 degrees. AAA came out again and jump started. Said they thought it was the battery. Went to O'Reilly where battery was bought 2 yrs. 3 mos. ago, and they said the battery was fine: battery load with 12.71 volts to start
    Alt. output 14.04 volts; around 35 amps but daytime running lights were on. Suggested a possible dead spot on starter.
    Next drove to Toyota dealership: battery test, rated CCA 582; measured cca 805, measured volts 12.61, degrees F 92. Service guy said he didn't want to start throwing parts at it when he couldn't pinpoint anything right now.

    When turning the key, the car makes a rather high pitched whining sound but just won't start.
    Would a battery go out that is less than 2-1/2 years old? (They claim they can't replace it if there meter reads that it is functioning.) Is the car running off the alternator?
    Might anyone have had similar issues ... and how were you able to resolve them?
    Recommend the dealership, or would a typical smaller-town mechanic be likely able to handle this?
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    1st, I think it is your starter relay, they stick on or off at times causing that problem, most camrys have relays, they are in different areas depends on year, on my camry it was behind the glove box, if not relay you may have a poor wire connection, maybe at starter solenide or etc. starter relays cost approx around $25. I think thats your car problem, I bought my starter relay at advance auto parts, Call them or the dealership to ask where its located on the car, it plugs in like a big box fuse.
  • I drive a 2005 Camry. Has approximately 138k miles on it. I drive round trip 5 days a week about 50 miles. In the past 4 months, when I'm driving on the road or highway and I reach a speed of about 40-45 mph, it seems as if the engine sounds louder and the rpms are struggling to shift it to gear so that the car accelerates.

    It will accelerate but sounds like the sound a motorcycle would make right before you shift gears. On the highway at about 70 it's not as loud. I get regular oil changes. Just got new tires/brakes in August. I haven't had any issues with this car! I love it, I really do take care of it. Thanks! :confuse:
  • I have a 96 toyota camry that wont start. when i turn the key, the starter clicks but doesnt turn. I replaced the starter and it works fine (as does the one i took out). the battery was obviously checked and is charged. when i hook up the starter to the leads and its not in the engine it doesnt turn (in other words, its not a locked engine). I replaced one of the fuses in the starting relay and it didnt make a difference. So the problem is between the battery and the starter - the starter isnt getting enough power (if i take it to an autoparts store it works when hooked up to their system but doesnt work (but makes a click) when hooked up to the car. any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,411
    Maybe bad battery cables then.

    we know your starter is okay

    we know your engine is not seized

    we know that current flows from your ignition key to your starter solenoid (because it clicks)

    So my guess is not enough juice from the battery.


  • Owner of a billon used cars, me, can safely say you should replace the starter. A rebuilt starter is just as good and so much cheaper.I have paid as little as 25$ for a rebuilt starter.
  • Thanx for replying -- but why do you think it is the starter?

    It's "intermittent" and been two times in past 2 mos. that it hasn't started.

    Wouldn't a bad starter act up more often?
  • Update and Resolution---finally! Camry 2002 intermittent starting problems:
    For the 3rd time, car that had been sitting in the garage overnight, would not start. First time was in Dec., then again late Jan., and now late Feb. 2013. Car dealerships couldn't figure it out.
    This time, "brilliant relative" with support of "brilliant friend" suggested that we not call AAA to jump start it. Instead, wanted to actually swap my battery with his known-functioning battery. He made the reconnect. It started IMMEDIATELY!
    Moral of the story, perhaps:
    When AAA jump starts a battery, it gives it enough juice so that when you take it to O'Reilly's Auto or a dealership/mechanic, the readout is okay BUT ACTUALLY IT ISN'T ... FOR LONG! The manager told me it was likely the starter or something else that was a parasitic low draw on my battery.
    To their credit, O'Reilly's did use their battery checker device on wheels the first time this occurred and it showed it supposedly was not the battery. Maybe not to their credit -- is the fact that batteries being their specialty and having had the explanation of what happened, they didn't realize or admit that jumping it can cause it to look like a battery is still OK. My battery was 2 years and 4 mos. old. They replaced it but made me pay the amount of the remaining 8 mos on the warranty.
    Sure hope that this may help some of the rest of you, and save you some money, too. I was close to starting to replace the Relay, first; then probably have to think about replacing the Starter.
    Still totally enjoying my Camry, at slightly over 10 yrs. old! :)
  • tc96tc96 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Camry manual transmission. It usually starts fine but on two occassions in the past month the engine rotated but wouldn't start, no starter problem or battery problem. The first time that it happened I towed it to the mechanic and it started fine to him. The computer didn't provide any error codes. I run the car for about two weeks and one sunday morning again, the engine rotated but wouldn't start. Not even an explosion or two, nothing. Sunday evening I tried again and it started fine. I took it to the mechanic again, it started fine to him every time he tried. Any idea what may be going wrong?
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