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Buick Rainier Repairs



  • hmiller2hmiller2 Posts: 12
    Took the SUV into the dealership to make the repair/replacement only to find that the replacement handle is not currently available. Supposedly they placed an order and opened a "SPAC" case on it to ensure that when the part does become available, I am on the top of the list. Only time will tell, as it might take "weeks" to get the part.
  • jblaisjblais Posts: 2
    Couples months ago I had an electrical tourble with my gage, the Alternator batetries gage was reduicing down to 5 amp. After a scan at Dealer, It appear that my air pump causing this, so I did change the iar pump, 2 weeks after same trouble, Delear says Buick Rainier has 2 iar pump, and the second one is defective also, itès about 600$ each time - Is someone has a solution for me or did someone experimented this trouble ?

    For the second time I had the check engine going on, after scan at Dealer the
  • kermiekermie Posts: 4
    This probally is not related to your air pump problem but I had an electrical problem a couple of weeks ago. Got to the corner from the house and it died and the warning message was something about checking the brake system. Would not start until several tries. I took it straight to the shop, not the dealer it's out of warranty.

    To make a long story short it was the ignition switch. Apparently, the Rainier switch sends a voltage to the computer and if the computer is happy it sends the start voltage to the starter. When it would not start it was only getting 2 volts out of the switch. Switch was $38.00, trouble shoot $80.00, and about $100 to install the switch.

  • tnixontnixon Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Buick Ranier and it has been nothing but plagued with problems! Right now we are dealing with a transfer case issue. The entire car clunks and shudders when reversing or doing sharp turns. We have replaced all teh tires and drained the fluid build up in the transfer case but it is only slightly better. Is this a manufacturers defect?? Please help.
  • hmiller2hmiller2 Posts: 12
    I had a similar problem with my 2006 Rainier, but it was easily repaired with the replacement of relay. In that I have had experience with full-time four wheel drive, Irecognized that the problem was that the all-wheel drive was apparently locked into 4-wheel drive. Sharp turns and attempting to turn while in reverse on dry pavement, while in 4-wheel drive, results in that which you explain. In my case, the replacement of the relay was covered by warranty. Good luck.
  • I am interested to find out if your transfer case also let loose and leaked transmission fluid all over the road. I was about 300 miles from home on 7/12/08 and my 2004 Buick Rainier started to have a burning oil smell. I drove home on 7/13/08 at which time I found transfer case oil all over the driveway.I got the car to the dealer on 7/14/08 and he stated that the transfer case was leaking all over the undercarriage and has to be rebuilt , so there it has been sitting, or under repair, for the last 3 days. Good thing for the 5 year extended warranty.Was wondering if you also only had only about 27,000 miles on this luxury Buick all wheel drive vehicle. Your transfer case story scared me , as I am hoping not to have the same miserable experience . Up to this point nothing more then an oil change and preventive maintenance in 4 years. Looks like another GM product which only lasts 4 years . Previously had a Pontiac firebird which had a transmission that lasted about 3 years and had to be rebuilt 3 times.You would think I would learn to stay away from GM products. I will now. Good luck with your transfer case woes.
  • I don't mean to try to make anyone feel stupid, but the real solution to your problem will shock you. The rainier is not a piece of junk that only last four years. It is actually a very well made vehicle. I am a master mechanic and this vehicle is well designed and very durable. As for your problem... PUT AIR IN YOUR TIRES!!! That may sound dumb, but the On Demand Smart Track system is very sensitive and low air pressure (as low as 5 lbs.) will soften the tire enough to make the system sense a slip. This slip will cause the All Wheel Drive System to engage (the clunk you are feeling). I'm not kidding. People bring GM On Demand all wheel drive vehicles in to us all the time and 95% of the time this is the problem. The dealerships will never tell you this, but it is the truth. Try it and see!!!
  • thanks buickviggi for the info. I will monitor this. I have this problem as well as MANY others. My Rainier also has times when it will not start. It is not often, but it will only click when turning the key. It takes exactly 10 minutes from the first try until it will start. Then it may not do it again for two weeks. My most irritating problem though is with the speedometer. Do you have any recommendations for this?
  • I have gage problems. My oil gage and speedometer are acting up!!! The speedometer works when it feels like it and recently my oil gage took the same attitude. I check the oil and its good. At first, the oil gage started normal then when i drove it started to lower to the red area. Could air in my tires fix this?? Or is this a stepper motor issue. I live about 5oo miles from the dealer i bought this from so going there wont be an option. Any suggestions??
  • RE; Message #50. It appears as if you think that you have to return to the original dealer to get Buick service. Even if it is warranty service you can go to any Buick dealer.
  • Yeah i just figured that out lol well im thinking of getting my cluster fixed by someone on ebay near conneticut. I will be paying about 150 or so to get the cluster fixed then shipped back to me with in 24 hours!!! How easy is it to get the cluster out? I heard of stepper motors. I have to send those to. Is this something that i would have to ask someone to remove for me like a mechanic? Also, can i operate the vehicle with out a cluster or the stepper motor? I dont know much about cars by the way lol thanks buddy...
  • dlh6dlh6 Posts: 2
    My 2004 Buick Rainier is stuck in AWD. Buick garage diagnosed problem three months ago as a faulty transfer case encoder motor. I replaced the motor and two days later it was stuck again. Replaced that motor with another motor and after having no problems for about two months, it is stuck again. I can't believe both replacement encoder motors are defective. Any ideas?
  • I have a 2006 Rainier. In 02/08 it , too, was stuck in AWD. When that happens you are actually stuck un 4WD. A sure symptom of that is that is very difficult to turn while backing on dry pavement. The dealer test revealed "encoder motor stuck". They replaced P/N 89059278, described as the Actuator 4.563. That solved the problem. Hope this helps.
  • dlh6dlh6 Posts: 2
    The two encoder motors that were installed are P/N 89059278. After the first one was installed the AWD trouble light appeared on the dash after a couple days. The Buick garage removed the unit and tested it and said it was defective. The second unit has been OK until last week. The trouble light has not come on. Based on advice from tomh5, I put air in the tires and the problem has temporarly gone away. The air pressure was below 30 psi in each tire. I'm hopeful that this solved the problem! I'm thinking that the original encoder may not have been defective because the trouble light never appeared when it was stuck! The light only appeared with the first motor installed.
  • When I had trouble with the encoder motor and was stuck in AWD the only symtom I had was trouble turning, especially while in reverse. There was no trouble light. I can't believe that low air pressure in the tires would cause the problem. Just this past week I developed a slow leak in one front tire and I didn't notice it until it was almost flat, which I detected visually. There was no indication of the AWD being stuck.
  • tkaratkara Posts: 1
    I have two conflicting stories. One from the manufacturer who states that this vehicle can not be towed 4 wheels down, IE: dingy towing (behind a motor home). The second is from the Motor Home tow guide who advise that My 2004 Buick Rainier can be towed without modification. IE. Put the tow bar on, do the elctrical hook up, put the applicable brake buddy in, place the vehicle in neutral and tow away.

    Can anybody advise me if I need to do any modification to the Buick or can I just tow away. I have gotten less than adequate response from Buick, but I do not wish to risk the tranny or the front differential. I have already installed the tow bar and brake buddy.

    I need help. Maybe some one out there is already towing a dingy Rainier.

    Thanks :
  • Hello all,
    I just bought a 2004 Rainier, one owner just turned over to 100K. When traveling on the freeway, upon reaching about 70mph I start to hear a vibration which increases with speed. The reason I say hear, is I hear it more than feel it. First thing I did was take it to Discount tire and they balanced and rotated the tires and said they were fine. It is more of a dull "hum" heard through the vehicle. I seem to remember my 2000 Silverado did the same thing and I think (it's been a while) that it was the driveshaft. Anyone else ever have this happen and if so was it indeed driveshaft related? It doesn't clunk or anything like that changing gears.
    PS six cylinder engine.
  • I had a similar experience with Michilen tires. I failed to have them rotated in a timely fashion and they became "cupped" and sounded like snow tires. Rotating them solved the problem, but only for a brief period.
  • The tires were my first thought, although the vibration/hum seemed "faster" than it would be with tires, but wanted to eliminate that first. After discount re-balanced and rotated, it made no difference. This is a fairly high frequency hum and the odd thing is I can't really feel it in the car. Mostly audible. I even tried shifting into neutral and taking my foot off the gas but that didn't change the pitch/intensity at all.
  • adf2adf2 Posts: 7
    Anyone had problems with there a/c clutch bearing making a whining noise? Any hints or tips welcome. I did replace the idler pulley, thinking it was the culprit, but the noise remained as loud as ever. I'm sure it's the a/c clutch bearing from what I can hear, and from everything I've read on the 'net'.

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