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Buick Rainier Repairs



  • I purchased my 2006 Rainier in Sept 2006 as a "Program Car" with 10,000 miles on it and it now has approximately 51,000 miles on and I couldn't be happier with any other SUV. I can't believe all of the complaints that I have read on this website by others that own that fine SUV. I had similiar trouble with the fuel gage, but a four hour stay, as an "out patient" at a reputable GM dealer replaced the gage. I just spent over $1100 to repair an oil leak on the front differential, but those things happen and I am not going to cry about it. I can't believe that so many Rainier owners think that since they purchased a quality vehicle that they should have 100% assurance there would never be part that has to be replaced.
  • With all due respect hmiller2. You are exactly the person the domestics prey upon. You have paid prematurely and gladly accept the cost for repairs based on strategic planning by the Big 3. I agree a vehicle should not last forever but we know brake and steering components are designed for an extremely high level of reliance. I believe if I am roaring down a Michigan Highway at 75 miles an hour and I run out of fuel in an area where I cannot bail out is a very serious issue to me and my family. I have been hit twice on major Hwys in the U.S. due to drivers following too close.

    By the way I forgot to mention the mirrors also will not adjust properly and both of them have been replaced once before. This gets me thinking........ does this vehicle qualify for the lemon law?????
  • bob192bob192 Posts: 19
    Just wait till the speedometer quits and you pay 700 for a replacement. There have been enough failures to identify this as a GM defect. They have to do better than this if they are to win back customers. There is a very competitive marketplace today and much more info about reliability than years ago.
  • I haven't posted anything for a few weeks, but now the engine temperature gauge strangely drops from the midrange to the lowest/cold start reading while driving. Guess that's better than going to the overheating area. And the battery power gauge seems to be bouncing around a bit. Maybe I just imagined that one...a few times. Thanks, Buick for responding, but I don't have really have the money to go to the shop right now. Guess the speedometer is next to go while I'm out job hunting. And the false empty problem only seems to occur when the tank is full, so I don't fill up anymore. What fun. Thanks fellow Rainier/Envoy/Trailblazer owners for educating me. It's not just the fuel sensor, it's the instrument cluster too.
  • kyredkyred Posts: 1
    I have an '04 AWD Rainier and it feels like its stuck in AWD all the time. I have taken it to the dealership several times and they have no idea what the problem is. Has anyone else experienced this? :confuse:
  • If you are stuck in 4WD, It will be very difficult to back up on dry pavement while turning your wheels. The wheels on the inside of the turn want to travel a shorter distance than the outside wheels and the 4WD won't let that happen. I have a 2006 Rainier and that happened just after purchasing the SUV in 2006 and more recently with over 50,000 miles, it happened again. Both times they replaced the Actuator 67282 (The FP Number, whatever that is, was 89059278). The first repair was under warranty. This last time, total for labor and parts, $618.81 at a GM garage. Good Luck
  • In Response to:
    I didn't have an issue with it being locked in four wheel drive. My issue is when I am at a stop light, I get a "bang" action that feels like someone tapped into my bumper even though nobody did. It is a quick jerking action. No engine issues or loss of power.

    **We are experiencing the same issue. We just bought our 2004 Raineer 2 months ago. No other problems. It just does the thumping/tapping/knocking sound when we slow down or after we come to a complete stop. Its happening sometimes now when we turn as well. Have you found a fix? Thanks!
  • I am not a mechanic, but the "bang" when stopped sounds like a idle setting problem to me. I have experienced something similar with my 2006. During cold weather, at the first couple stop lights after starting out with a cold engine, it is as if it is ideling too fast and you experience the "bang." Once the engine is warm it is OK. I don't know what it should be, but you might like to check and note the rpm on the tach when it is doing it. That information might help your mechanic.
  • I was paying extra close attention today and it does feel like it's coming from the middle to the rear of the vehicle. I don't think mine is temperature related. It kind of just feels like the car is "settling" with a knocking sound when I am slowing down or are at a stop. Another person described it as someone running into the back of you and you feeling a thump. I would agree with that. My husband noticed it doing it more last night while he was making turns and still at the same times I usually hear it. Some days it's worse than others, but it definitely does it everyday.
  • Its the front differential slipping in and out of AWD. I just bought a 2007 Rainier and it was doing it pretty bad when I first bought the car. It usually didn't do it for the first 10 mins of driving because the fluid hasn't heated up yet which effects its viscosity. I took it back to the dealer that sold me the car and they told me they had "fixed" the problem by changing the fluid. It definitely did reduced the frequency and severity of the knocking but I still notice it sometimes mainly when I'm slowing down. I have a "60 day warranty" on the car and I think I'm going to take it back and tell them if they can't fix the underlying issue of the problem, I'm going to return the car. Hope this helps.
  • lithium1lithium1 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I bought my car iin 2005 with 11k. Here I am today with 177k and 5 years later of pounding up and down I-75 being from MI. I have several problems wrong with my car as well. When I am at a stoplight and idle for 5 or 10 seconds I get the little bang or clunk in the rear. It pulls my car down a hair for a split second cause I can fell it. My Gage cluster is pretty much trashed, nothing works correctly on it anymore. I do not know about anyone else but I have replaced more front sway bar links than I have brakes. WTF is going on with that??? Now I am having CD player issues. It is the Bose 6 disc changer but now it plays cd's or songs once and a while. Sometimes it will play 1 song but it goes to song 2 and kicks the disc out of the player and says check cd. I have driven this car to hell and back just would like to keep the ole gal a little bit longer.
  • alexisandjamiealexisandjamie Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    I was reading on here quite a bit and someone had mentioned to make sure the tire pressure stayed up where it should be. Seemed a little ridiculous. However, we did it and a lot of the noises have stopped or happen a lot less frequently. The problem you are having with the idle issue is exactly what we are experiencing. It's the weirdest thing. I hope it's just a nuisance and not something that's really going to affect anything. I haven't had issues with anything electrical so far. We only use an am/fm transmitter with our ipod, but I notice everything gets really hot. We bought an extended warranty so I assume we will start having electrical issues when we are out of warranty.
  • In the beginning this was a great vehicle. I have the kick at stops, much like everyone else. Then came the front end troubles. After sinking a ton into fixing the right axle now I have to fix the left one. As I save to do so, then the instrument panel dies. This is the last straw. I've just been laid off and this is not the time of year to have car repair bills. I got pulled over today for going over the speed limit and the officer did not ticket me because he said he'd heard that these vehicles have been known for this. Buick, get your act together. With the auto industry in this predicament you can't charge me $100 to diagnose a problem you know is an ongoing issue. I have Hondas and I can tell you they do a much better job of recalling their vehicles. I truly cannot afford a $700 instrument panel right now. Period.
  • I TOTALLY agree with you. I've had ENOUGH of shelling out money to have this vehicle repaired. I was just laid off from my job and I can't afford to keep sinking money into this vehicle. They know this is an issue and the officer who pulled me over (due to NO speedometer) said he's seen other ones in the same situation. GM - get with the program! RECALL IT!!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    the officer who pulled me over (due to NO speedometer)

    I'm curious. How did the officer know you had no speedometer?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • When he pulled me over I explained that my speedometer wasn't working and that's when he told me he'd seen several of the same vehicles with this problem. But he was good and advised me to get it fixed or the next time I may not be so lucky.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Oh! I misunderstood you to mean that he pulled you over because of your speedometer.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Are they all awd vehicles
  • cooterbfdcooterbfd Posts: 2,770
    No, they were available in rwd
  • mom0423mom0423 Posts: 14
    This problem has been going on for some time now. But I've come to the conclusion that I don't believe it's the instrument panel itself. I think something is telling the panel that there is a problem when there isn't. Such would explain why it would say a transmission problem, or a check engine situation or a oil pressure issue. GM, which I have now renamed "BS" refuses to address my problem because they say I did not have it serviced at a GM dealership. Ok, let's think about this: GM closes almost every dealership within 50 miles of where I live. I call the only dealership which is within that range and they tell me I have to leave the vehicle there and they do not provide a loaner. So - GM, how am I supposed to have the vehicle repaired?? I take it to a local guy who has a great reputation and you refuse to accept that as qualified service? I will NEVER buy a GM product again because of this. I bought this vehicle instead of a Honda (which I am thoroughly regretting now). My kids have Hondas, all with over 100,000 + miles and still running strong (knock on wood). I have a '92 Honda with over 340,000 miles on it and it is more reliable and I don't have payments still to make on it!! If anyone has any advice I'm open to suggestions. Thanks.
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