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Jaguar S-Type Transmission Problems



  • thank's fingers crossed , filter replaced , plus refilled synthitic oil , light has not appeared yet , haven't put car through paces, all is smooth , hopefully not knowing last service date if any ........say no more !
  • I have a 2001 S Type 3.0 with 77,000 miles. Car was fine when I bought it (76000 miles) with no engine codes and no previous engine codes. Soon after, Engine light came on with a brake switch code. Mechanic replaced brakes switch twice and it came on again both times after about 2 days. Car drives normally, except when shifting from 3rd to 4th, it rumbles. This occurs most of the time. Any idea if the two items are related? I am most concerned about the rumble when the car changes gears. Mechanic wants to trouble shoot the problem, but if anyone has had this happen and knows how to fix it, it would certainly help to save me on labor charges. Any ideas?
  • kidcocokidcoco Posts: 2
    Dear Soberguyjaguar! Wow, I'm so impressed with your really know your stuff and you are completely level headed. My question, for now, is, do I need my 2000 s type 3.0 to have the "transmission fault" light on for it to retrieve the codes?
    The engine light is on, but the code for that was P1571 Brake Switch. I haven't done anything about that. I plan too, but the breaks are fine. This car has 103k on it. I had the oil changed...then driving it away, I smell some burnt oil. I checked everything and saw no engine oil, saw no drips for months. I only smell it inside the car. I figured, well, the oil guy touched a manifold with oily rubber gloves and I smell it through the heater. But today, the "Transmission Fault" light came on. I could REALLY smell that smell now! The tranny was slipping on the freeway, made a rear end clunk as it reved to 4 to 5k rpm, then would kick in and go back down to 3k. The Tranny Fault light would come off when the car cooled down. But it slips at high speeds on the free way (when trying to pass or something).

    I live in WA state. I sure wish I lived in Oklahoma to see you!!!!
    I have an extended warranty, it appears to cover up to 2,000 on a tranny (there are so many clauses though). I'm wondering if it's a good warranty. Tomorrow, I'm heading to auto zone. Then I'm will take it to the used dealer I bought it from (and the warranty) hoping they will be great advocates. Can I come back to you and get your take on the codes? I'm thinking that If I need a new tranny, I may be able to get by on paying about 1000 out of pocket for the labor. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for posting here. Thank you thank you thank you!!! You are an amazing nice guy for lending your expertise here!
  • kidcocokidcoco Posts: 2
    Well, I guess I shouldn't limit myself. I am pretty stressed out with my car woes and limited funds and not many options. Soberguyjaguar...I find you an expert, but I see earlier threads with some pretty great knowledge. I come back here with codes:

    Autozone tells me 1572 and 0795. Brake Switch and Faulty shift Celenoid. Here's my fear: My after market warranty I bought (First Automotive) states that it doesn't cover electronic parts. I believe a celenoid is an electronic part. I believe the transmission is a sealed transmission, hence, if it needs a new celenoid, it needs a new transmission. But because it's the celenoid, and not the lubricating parts, it won't be covered under my warranty. I might be completely talking out my own rear end as well! I don't know. It sure sounds reasonable that because it's seal, if a part inside goes but the whole needs replacing, it should be covered. I guess it's up to them? I would love Soberguyjaguar's take on my problems. I would love anyone here who would love to comment. Please also read #172 post where I replied. Pleaded, and cried! I also accept any sympathy and empathy. I need it. I know I sound joking, but I'm kinda down about my car problems and not much cash to back it up. It's a beautiful car and it drives very nice when all is in order.

    Here's another issue. I checked the history and it was recalled for ball joints. But they went out about 3 months ago so I had them replaced. (I feel the dealer should honor a recall if it still continues with the same problem, but they tell me it's a one shot deal. I now again, have the same squeek rusty iron sound when I go over speed bumps. These are brand new ball joints, 3 months old! No sound for three months. Back to the same problem. Do shocks or struts make this sound? I had the car checked out before I bought it and they said it needed ball joints.
    No mention off shocks or stuts. It "appears" to just be ball joint arthritis with this machine. Give it a steroid shot and it's ok for few months, but when it wears off, you still have arthritis?

    I know this rig has 100,000 miles on it. But i have record of many things replaced and it looks extremely clean, like a car only 4 years old. OK, I've completely spilled my automotive guts and gears in two posts (172). My fish hooks are out. Bite anyone? Soberguyjaguar?

    Thank you so much for reading my posts!!! All the best to you folks!
  • aroent3aroent3 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 S Type and it wont shift correctly. I have gotten the transmission fault message before but it began to work again. More specifically it wont go into first gear easily. Now it wont even go into first gear the engine just rams really fast and moves very slowly. now once it gets into the upper 50's it has a problem shifting. I have a issue going up and down hills also. I used to take it to the 2 then put it in drive and take off. that was working for a while now its not. Also i hear a huge rubbing noise in the rear of the car when its trying to shift. Im not sure whats going on.
  • You need a capable mechanic or transmission shop. Transmissions that dont have a dipstick can still have their fluid checked and topped up. The shift solenoids are all inside the transmission and are bathed in fluid. Most extended warranties cover them because they are internal. Call the 1-800 number on your extended warranty and ask if a shift solenoid is covered. I am concerned that you are still driving the car. If it is low on fluid and you have a brake switch problem, you could be turning a
    $600 warranty repair plus $100 brake switch into a $3200.00 trans. rebuild. You also need to find out where it is leaking to get that burning smell. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
  • Sorry, but you wont be driving much longer. You are either low on fluid or your transmission is out. Forcing the car to drive when you are low on fluid burns up the clutches; ruining the transmission. Make a plan now.
  • aroent3aroent3 Posts: 3
    So it could just be out of fluids? When it goes into the first gear and the car jerks a little after i take it to the 2 and back to the drive it works fine i have no problem with it but when i start it and after bringing it from the 2 back to drive and it doesnt jerk or only jerks a little it wont work or shift right and its getting worse when it doesn't shift.
  • Yes, that's one of the 2 possibilities.
  • aroent3aroent3 Posts: 3
    Im trying to change the transmission fluid how do i change the fluid, and what kind do i get.
  • You need a capable mechanic.
  • tee21tee21 Posts: 1
    I have the s-type automatic and it will not go into park or move out of reverse, however the the lever will move and it's connected to the cable. I can shift it with a screw driver into every position except park. Any ideas as to what may be causing this problem? thanks for any help and advice.
  • josebjoseb Posts: 1
    i just bought a 2003 s-type-r from the original owner for $6500. the car is clean and was well maintain at the dealer. the reson he sold it was because the car is stuck in park. i used a scewdriver to release the shifter and was able to drive the car home under 50mph. it will not shift and is stuck in 1st or 2nd. the car has 95k on it and the owner seemed to be very honest and told me this is the only major issue he has had with the car. he said this just happened out of nowhere and would rather sell it and move on. did i just make a $6500 mistake, or was this a good buy? he did tell me it could be a easy fix, or worse case a new trans, other than that the car needs nothing and is mint w/nav. package too. i would like to know what i am looking at here so i don't get ripped off by some shop, i live in chicago and any advice would help. should i keep it or resell it? thanks.
  • mbalasumbalasu Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    My Jag has 115K miles.

    Why would a transmission quit uphill? I had only one instance in the past when I thought it slipped. Other than that I think this failure was sudden. I turned the car around using gravity, and rolling downhill I was able to engage trans in 2nd gear. I took the car to the mechanic (authorized he says to work on Jags), and I had the trans fluid level checked and there was no problem with the fluid.

    Before it quit, here are some things that I noticed, that might mean something for the diagnostic: I once adjusted / tightened the cable on the J-shifter in the cabin (1.5 years ago). Since I bought it (used) in 2007, I always had to wait a few seconds before the transmission would go into the first gear. After, that it was a breeze. Same thing going in reverse - had to wait until it engaged in gear, before accelerating.

    I read another posting's answer from SoberGuy, and it looks like there is a solenoid for the shifter. Could it be the solenoid? What are the symptoms when the solenoid quits? Can this be changed without rebuilding the whole transmission? Can it be changed by my mechanic by accessing the it from underneath after removing the pan?

    The mechanic that is looking at my car did not have the right code reader computer program (it was not reading 4.0 codes). He claims that he updated the software today and he called me to tell me that there are no codes from the transmission (I had the check engine light on when I took it in). He concluded that with no codes it is evident that the trans is bad and I need another one...

    When I took the car in, the first thought was the fluid level. He checked it and it was OK. Another thought was that the filter might be clogged. He took the pan down, but could not get a filter that day (Saturday). The pan magnet had some metal shavings but very little. I would say normal wear (like a thin paste on the magnet). Is it worth changing the filter and refilling the oil? Could a clogged filter cause this?

    Any comment or advice is appreciated. Hopefully SoberGuyJaguar is still around. I would like to hear his opinion on this issue.

    I searched eBay for used trans. I am thinking to fix it and sell it. I found trannys from $450 used to $1700 and up rebuilt. Any advice there?

    Thank you everyone, and have a great day!
  • Bear mbalasu, This doesn't sound good. First of all, if your transmission slipped while driving up hill, then worn clutches are the most likely culprit. However, slipping
    clutches will throw ratio codes in your trans. control module. Sounds like your technician doesn't have a scanner that will read anything but engine codes. Occasionally you can find a car that will flair between shifts due to low fluid or a bad shift solenoid. Unfortunately, a car that was pulling under full power untill you tried to climb a hill doesn't usually fall into this catagory. You MUST find a shop
    that can read your transmission codes and see which part of the system failed.
    Anything else is just guessing. Buying used transmissions that are 10 years old when your not sure what is wrong with yours is also a big gamble. When you call around to transmission shops, be specific. Can they read Jaguar tranny codes or not. I ASSURE you. If your transmission is acting up, then there are codes in the
    TCM which will point to the failing system. Good luck, Soberguy.
  • took my jaguar to a good mechanic and fixed all engine leaks .car has new parts.
    when i step on the gas my temperature needle goes to high when i slow down or brake the needle goes back to normal temp. i do not know if car overheats ?
  • Hi..
    I'm thinking to buy a 2003-2004 Jaguar s-type R
    I read a lot of messages. a lot of people saying that there are big problems with Transmission on 2000-2002 models, but what about 2003 or 2004?
    i just sold my 2001 BMW 740i and it had similar problems that Jaguar has. The car would not go into reverse gear.
    i tried to fix it but i couldn't, even bmw dealer ship said that they can not do anything except changing a transmission.
    so before buying S-type R 2003/2004 i would like to know if it has the same or similar problems.
    I was also thinking to buy XJR 1999-2002.Any sequestration about this car problems?
    Tank you.
  • The 20003/04 s-type R has a different and much better transmission. It also has the automatic parking brake which should eliminate a lot of the reverse engagement problems that originate in parking the car on a hill and not engageing
    the parking brake before putting the car in park. This transmission has a lot of gear noise even when it's new, but it works great. This is a vastly better car than the 1999/2001 xj-r. Soberguy.
  • I just bought a 2003 S Type R with 48,000 miles. The car looks great. The engine is a little loud, especially when slowing down. Does anybody recommend doing any kind of service since I just bought it?
  • skippskipp Posts: 1
    I have 2003 S type and the fault transmission came on does this mean I need a new transmission
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