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Ford Escape Hybrid Engine Problems



  • Answered my own question:
    It was a cracked ABS Tone Ring. If the crack came round as I hit the brakes that caliper would bang close. As I said my code reader did not find the message but the dealers’ did.
    $7 part I got from I was able to replace it in by taking off the wheel, axel nut, caliper and bracket, ABS sensor wire bracket, tie rod end and two bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. This gave me enough A arm movement to pull the knuckle away from the axel. I think corrosion got underneath the ring causing it to crack. I cleaned the rust off with a Dremel, held the new ring by the diameter with a vise grip, heated it with a pipe torch, slipped it on and held it in place with the old ring till it cooled. I sealed it with Loctite 290 to prevent the corrosion from coming back. I used 1 ¼ socket to get the axel nut off but it probably is a 31 mm. Also the way the nut came off it may had been Loctited, had I hit it with the pipe torch it probably would had come off easier.
  • Hi all -
    I own a 2005 Escape All Wheel Drive Hybrid with 241,266 miles on it. I live in Illinois, and used it to commute to work about 95 miles one way (now have place to stay in area during week - long story). Last night I was traveling at highway speed, about 50 minutes into trip, when it suddenly felt like the transmission shifted, vehicle decelerated, and the red triangle with the exclamation point lit up, along with the warning message in the dashboard "Stop safely now". I was able to pull to the side, then drove on electric power 1/4 mile to a parking lot. I got out, checked for issues in the engine area, looked at the tie-rod ends (another long story for another post). I checked the owners manual, no insight concerning warning message. All system checks vehicle can scroll through were OK. I called the dealership for any thoughts, was 5 minutes after service department went home, said bring it in and they will check codes. I turned the vehicle off, then back on, warning message was gone. I decided to return home immediately to shorten or possibly avoid any vehicle recovery costs. While returning, after about 35 minutes of travel at highway speeds, I got the same "Stop safely now" warning message. Another turn engine off, then re-start cycle cleared message. I drove a little slower, and with the remaining short distance and several stops along way was able to get home. Am going to dealer this morning. Based on reads in this forum, I am suspecting issue similar to highrev2 (message 88). We park the car outside near trees, so I am suspecting the battery ventilation filter may be plugged. I googled Ford Escape Warning Messages and was very concerned about the Powertrain Control Module based on the consumer issues reported there, will post again about what dealer finds. This has been a great vehicle, average mpg 27.5 to 28 at highway speeds year around, as low as 22.5 mpg per tank at 80 mph in extreme cold, as high as 34 mpg doing local driving only in summer conditions. This is the first time I have felt uncertain about continuing to own the vehicle longer. My advice is to investigate carefully but immediately and not panic based on the red triangle warning messages, but certainly respond appropriately to your particular driving situations (any issue involving sudden deceleration in heavy traffic would deeply concern me too!). I will add another post to update this community later. Thanks!
  • Hi all -
    Ford dealer (Dixon, IL where I bought the hybrid) performed diagnostic and it returned P1A0D code, indicating problem with transaxle cooling pump. Evidently, this code triggers immediate reduction/limit of transaxle to 75% power, lights red triangle with exclamation point warning, and "Stop safely now" message. Dealer mechanic checked transaxle coolant pump, found it sticking during testing, tapped housing area with hammer and freed it. I ordered replacement pump ($482), should come in about a week. Also replaced air filter for battery compartment at this time. My wife will be driving this car for local trips only (8 miles one way) until transaxle coolant pump is replaced. I expect this will resolve current issues with this vehicle, but will be alert for other performance issues and warning messages. In reviewing the posts to this site, I am impressed with how few issues have been posted about the FEH, but am concerned about the potential safety impacts due to the system response and the limited awareness of the problems in the mechanic community. This vehicle has been a great ownership experience for me, and I am well satisfied with it. I hope to own it several years more!
  • 2006 mercury mariner (essentially ford escape) hybrid going 65 on freeway . sudden loss of gas engine, barely able to avoid traffic and get to side of road. turned engine off and re-started and it went for ~ 40 miles then did it again. is this a PCM type problem? if ford says it is "fixed" how will i know that it won't happen again?
  • Has Ford given you and help at all? I have a 2007 Escape Hybrid and just had the same issue no warning lights. It broke the 4th rod and piston from the oil pump. 100,000 mile warranty 3 months left and 70,000 miles on the engine and only 50,000 was engine running miles 20,000 was flat towed behind my class A motorhome. Did my oil changes no leaks ever but not having copies from the service centers (I called the ones I used and they don,t keep oil change records or reports to Carfax not even from Ford) from what I have seen on the web this seems to happen with 2005-2007 models and 50,000-80,000 miles.
  • Short summarized version. Son and friends want to drive to Rosebowl to see their team play. Major engine problem in middle of Utah. Towed to nearest city with Ford dealership. Diagnosis: "lower engine rub" causing major banging sound. 3.5 qts of oil mysteriously disappeared (I personally confirmed full dipstick at their departure (3 week old oil change) Can get new shortblock engine installed for $6000. Repair would take 10 days and I live 1500 miles away. Dealership doesn't want to buy it....."no hybrid market in southern Utah" Recommend call salvage yard and see what they'll give me as Wholesale value is only $7000 to $7500. Does this sound at all logical/ accurate? The hassle of getting out to a small town in Utah to drive this back doesn't seem worth 1000 -1500 bucks if the numbers are correct. Any thoughts?? :sick:
  • So on the hybrid I can be in all electric/battery mode or all engine mode. Today its cold about -15 with the windchill and a few days here in vancovuer with cold weather but this isn't the norm. So I let her warm up for about 5 mins outside (she parks outside) and was in full on engine mode (the red defrost symbol). I started out for work but the first light I came to the engine went quiet and into battery mode despite being on the engine setting so it shouldn't have gone into electric mode. It didn't stall as when I pressed the gas away it would go. I put in gas line anti-freeze and nothing. Anyone else experience this? Its troubling. Thanks
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 581
    edited March 2012
    As mentioned by a few posters before this one, our '07 Mariner Hybrid AWD (bought in '06) some times issues the message STOP SAFELY NOW ! :surprise:

    It has occurred on road trips (not on everyday local driving) and usually when we have it loaded with cargo creating weight. I was thinking it be some kind of temperature(heat) problem with battery ventilation or, it might be something about the trans axel as described in post 101 & 102.

    When it occurs we get off the highway ASAP because the darned thing is unresponsive to throttle! Scary!

    I get out and sniff around the outside and underneath to see if there is any abnormality. Haven't seen, heard or smelled anything out of the ordinary on any of the 3 occasions it has happened.

    We let the vehicle sit for 10-15 minutes. Then we start the puppy up we go. Generally speaking, the message does not return and we stay below the speed limit and in the right hand lane just incase the loss of power happens again.

    FWIW, The vehicle never has the problem just described when there are just 2 or 3 people and no cargo load. Since I know this much...duh... I don't want to fart around with our local Dealership's Service shop because they will probably say it is not unique to the hybrid 100,000 mile component warranty.

    I'll just have live with it....because I ain't got much money :cry:
  • Hevincali;

    I may have to source an engine for my '05 FEH. Pervasive engine rattle sounds ominously like a rod bearing going out.

    Can you reply with the information about your North Carolina source?

    Thanks so much...
    WILL take your report - twice my car stopped in the middle of big-time LA traffic - frightening experience. Took it to dealer the first time in 2011, they said it was fine. Happened again a week ago and they said it was a coolant pump and charged me accordingly. This should be a recall issue but the recall only happens when the government steps it. So file complaints with the National Highway Agency - link is given above. PLEASE FILE. This should be recalled.
  • nurseninernurseniner Posts: 1
    I drive a FEH 2008 and have noticed that over the last 6 months my gas mileage has dropped about 5mpg. My driving style has not changed and my husband also has noticed the huge difference. I've noticed that the engine seems to be running more often than before, even when we are not using the AC/defrost. We live in Southern California so the weather is consistently warm so it is not like the car needs to warm up. I called the ford dealership and they swear it's not the batteries. As far as I understand the hybrid when started, will turn off the gas engine automatically as long as the batteries are charged and the temperature is controlled. Please let me know if anyone else has experienced this phenomenon and should I get rid of it ASAP?
  • corralitoscorralitos Posts: 1
    Help - I believe the exact same happened to me yesterday while pulling onto the freeway. It sounded like the engin fell out of the car and came to an abrupt stop. There was oil everywhere but our mechanic said it looked like we ran out of oil which was impossible since it was recently changed. Have you had any luck with Ford? Of course ours is no longer under warranty (106,000). I'd appreciate any help.
  • zackozacko Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same issue with our FEH 2007. Has about 60K miles. Always has gotten less mileage in winter from summer due to engine having to heat up before turning off. However, it is summer, 80 plus temps and the engine is not turning off when the battery is fully charged. It continues to idle at 1000 rpms. Plus I am noticing the on/off being inconsistent, where on one trip it turns off and other times it does not. I'm guessing it is a sensor of some type that is malfunctioning, but this is a guess. I have not brought it into the dealer yet, but will be checking.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,904
    These issues sound like the electronics cooling pump (MCES) not working right. Also, the blend door actuator (for models prior to 2010) may not be working correctly.

    If the battery gets too hot it won't operate.
  • rthubarthuba Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    I got the MECS and blend door actuator yesterday at the dealership for 1157. parts 496 and labler 680$ for what had to be 2hour of having it and 1 hour of work based on dropping it off and when they called back.

    TSB 08-24-5 states that some 2005-2008 Escape Hybrid and 2006-2008 Mariner Hybrid vehicles may exhibit a red triangle light and codes indicating a transaxle overtemp. This condition may result in reduced power as the system activates fail safe operation. Codes P1A0E, P1A0F, P0A3C, P0A3E, P0A7A, P0A7C and P1A0D may also be set.
  • lehuakealehuakea Posts: 2
    I'm the original owner of my vehicle and I have had no problems whatsoever--I'm a happy customer. Now, I'm a bit frustrated as my car is not starting consistently. When I turn the key and it doesn't start, I sometimes hear clicks coming from the rear of car passenger side. But sometimes there is no clicking sound and no starting either. I've taken it to 2 mechanics, including a Ford dealership/service center. The first mechanic replaced the battery (not the hybrid battery) and that seemed to solve the problem--the mechanic turned off the ignition and was able to start it 30 + times. Then I drove the car home and was unable to start it. I had to try several times. Sometimes I sit for 5 or 10 minutes and then it will start. Ford has been unable to diagnose the problem because every time I take the vehicle in, they are able to start it on the first try. It does not seem to matter if the engine or air temp is warm or cold. Any ideas?
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,904
    edited March 2013
    Check the voltage on the battery. It is possible that the 12v battery is not getting charged correctly.

    However, on the FEH the 12v battery does not start the engine; the main traction battery does that. All the 12v battery does is power up the electronics to control the vehicle so that the big battery in the back can crank the engine. So you could have a bad traction battery. On a 2008, you would still be under the hybrid warranty for the main battery (unless you have more than 100K (150K in CARB states) on the vehicle. So that main battery would be under warranty.

    Take the car to a Ford dealer who has Hybrid specialists. This car is very different than a normal vehicle.

    I did a search on the Internet, but I did not find out how the 12v is charged (via the main engine or via mechanical charging). I suspect that the electrical system charges it, so lack of charging could be the main battery. If it is charged by the electrical system, there could be a problem with the pieces that step the 330v down to 12v. But this last part is conjecture.
  • djules23djules23 Posts: 1
    Did the reply by Stevedebi help out? Did you discover the problem? I am having the same issue with my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid.
  • HI no actually it didn't b/c when I took it in they said it was the water pump which sadly isn't covered by warranty. When they fixed it I had no more problems. I wish it had been a less expensive option but oh well at least it works. Good luck!
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,904
    "HI no actually it didn't b/c when I took it in they said it was the water pump which sadly isn't covered by warranty. When they fixed it I had no more problems. I wish it had been a less expensive option but oh well at least it works. Good luck! "

    Was it the water pump (for the engine), or the MECS pump (for the electronics)? The MECS is notorious for failing in this vehicle, particularly before the 2010 model redesigned the pump. I just had mine done after my car shut down twice on the freeway. I had 64K on my 2008 at the time.
  • I'm not sure sorry. I paid and never looked back.
  • stotta87stotta87 Posts: 1
    my escape hybrid had all the doors locked (did not lock it), i had to manually unlock the door and when i put the key into the ignition no lights came on. It would not crank over or start, no anti-theft light was on and was not blinking, no lights came on at all, no sounds of any kind either. decided to disconnect the battery under the hood for about 10 minutes and when i checked the escape after that there was no change. i let it sit over night and in the morning it started right up. what could cause this? i would hate to have this happen again. Went to a ford dealer to hook it up to diagnostic machine but they said if there are no indicator lights on then no code would show up at all. please help.
  • lehuakealehuakea Posts: 2
    I finally found the problem! I friend told me that the lock mechanism in the steering column can get loose, resulting in poor connection with the key/tumbler/whatever. I tried jiggling the key inside the ignition as I turned it--and voila--that did the trick. I took it to Ford to have the lock assembly replaced (~$500) and that solved the problem once and for all. Now I'm a happy Escape owner once again.

    What's nice is that you can jiggle the key as you're turning it--the same way you would a cranky house key or something--and it is a way to diagnose if this is indeed the problem.
  • I Have a 2009 Mercury Mariner Hybrid. You put the key in turn it to start and it may or may not start. You turn it off turn it to 1/2 way then count to 10 may start may not. Repeat this process 5-10 times and eventually it will start. Any one have similar issue or a solution.

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,347

    @dnickason said:
    I Have a 2009 Mercury Mariner Hybrid. You put the key in turn it to start and it may or may not start. You turn it off turn it to 1/2 way then count to 10 may start may not. Repeat this process 5-10 times and eventually it will start. Any one have similar issue or a solution.

    Sounds like it could possibly be a fuel line/pump issue because the process you're describing should be trying to pump fuel to the engine each time you do it. Sort of like if you had a hose attached to a faucet that had a blockage in it and you turned it on and off until the blockage shifted and water eventually flowed. Could be a problem with the fuel pump as well, and the multiple attempts finally gets it to get going. Another possibility would be a fuel line leak where the pressure that normally keeps fuel in the line ready for the next time you start the car bleeds off. I had that happen with a vehicle once and had sporadic starting issues like you describe.Turning the key to that halfway position for a few seconds before trying to start would run the fuel pump and repressurize the line. Are you smelling any gas? when it doesn't start?


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  • dglazedglaze Posts: 1
    stevedebi said:

    "Have been getting occasional service light warnings and then the Escape begins to chug, when I stop and turn off and then back on, it runs like normal again, I have taken it to the dealer once, but they didn't find anything. So far, this has happened about 4 times."

    This could be a serious error with the hybrid powertrain system. Every time it happens take it in to the dealer. If they can't fix it on the third try, go for a lemon law replacement.

    Unless you want to live with the "chug,chug" for the entire length of your ownership...

    Check engine light came on as my daughter was driving back from Ashville, NC. Stopped at an AutoZone/Advance Auto where they plugged in and checked the code which apparently was showing that an O2 sensor needed replacing. She dropped it off to Shelor Motor Mile yesterday, they finally got to it today. They are stating that they were unable to run the diagnostics/update the PCM software as the standard engine battery was 'weak'. Had them try another battery and now they are saying that the PCM is 'burnt out' and needs replaced. I'm suspicious at this point that they just don't have a clue how to work on a hybrid Escape. Comments?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 2,256
    A trouble code does not tell you what part needs replaced, it tells you what test that the computer ran has failed. In order to actually diagnose an issue the technician needs to test the system or circuit the same way that the computer (PCM) does.

    Beyond that a lot more very specific information would be required to even begin to have a starting point for a discussion about what is going on. That would include the trouble code(s), associated serial data, bidirectional command test results KOEO test and KOER test as applicable. (Key On Engine Off and Key On Engine Running) and from there specific pinpoint test results.
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