Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
But I think you should sell me your car cheap hee hee
-mike
Insurance ought to cover even engine damage suffered in a collision.
The car runs fine when cold, but at operating temp it stumbles badly accelerating from a stop. Like a carb(if it had one)with a bad accelerator pump. A delicate foot is the the only way to make a decent getaway. Has new plugs, wires,fuel filter, all the cheap things I can do. Any one have any clues? thanks.
Also, a question. I am new to Subaru, and I was wondering if any one can tell me what they use instead of a distributor, and where it is.thanks
After the plugs and wires, try that. Should be similar to my '98 Forester, so it's on top of the engine, where the spark plug wires connect. Mine was $80 from 1stsubaruparts.com, and you only need one for all cylinders.
-mike
-mike
Hey, my advice was actually useful to somebody! LOL
The ECU probably takes a tach pulse from a sensor on the right cam pulley, mixes it with a signal from the speedo, compares speed to rpm and spits out the correct ignition timing for the situation. Without the speed signal, it doesn't know what to do and defaults to a failsafe mode, possibly TDC, wich would explain the mis-fire at high RPM.
It's already fixed I'm sure, but I just thought I'd give you my two cents. Did I dazzle you with brilliance, or baffle you with bull****? please forgive me.
-mike
The power loss is not constant so it has been hard for me to diagnose. Nor has it been a big enough power loss that i have wanted to put the money to get it checked out.
Note: it has the 2.2L engine.
It's spark or fuel, as they say, so if that doesn't help then for spark I'd look to the plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil, in that order specifically.
my car is jumping, the garage does not have a clue, it failed the mot on omissions,it it like one minute it has no power, then it has too much, won't stay on idle for too long either...
no splits in hoses, filters ok
thanks Sara
Is it a WRX? Outback Sport? Impreza 2.5i?
That will tell us the engine.
Does it throw a Check-Engine Light? If so do you have the codes?
it has now been fixed. The garage (which specialised in these cars) did not have a clue ( it has been in the garage for 7 days), diagnostics brought up nothing; it was the "af filter" in the carb....
apparently it runs like a dream now mmm will see when i pick it up next week
thanks for any help
THANKS FOR ANY HELP
TY:)
Definitely note it with the shop, though! Being a new car, you want this thing to be noted "just in case." And, the dealer might be so responsible as to even announce it to the shop crew so the next unsuspecting customer does not suffer the same oversight.
I am leery about shops any more. If, for some odd reason, I actually have my car in a shop, I am sure to pop the hood and dip the fluids. Takes about two minutes of time, but if something is off I can note it before the car even leaves their property.
I agree the problems should be documented, but you'll probably see no ill effects.
-mike
Also, the current owner mentioned that the plugs were frequently fouling and had to be replaced every 8,000 miles or so. Looking at the maintenance receipts, the plugs and wires were being replace every 4 or 5 months. Any ideas? Thanks.
-mike
Those engines are virtually indescructible if taken care of.
I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my Forester with ones from the Legacy.
-mike
-mike
I'm not sure if this is a engine problem or what. I know I'm do for a tune-up and oil change soon. Could this be a clog somewhere? Maybe the fuel filter?
I would change, in order:
spark plugs
spark plug wires
fuel filter
ignition coil
Bet that fixes it. If not get the fuel injection system serviced.
The spark plug wires on my Miata barely last 30k miles.
I'm thinking about buying a Miata one day.
Don't think I've kept a car to 137k miles but if I did the list of things to replace would be a bit longer.
On my Miata, I bought it with just 26k miles, though it was 8 years. Previous owner showed me a receipt for the 30k service, done early due to the age.
Guess what? They had forgotten the rear diff fluid. I know because the trans fluid (for the front diff) was clean and new, and the stuff that drained out of the rear diff looked like clowdy, melted chocolate. Fortunately the limited-slip function still works - guess I got lucky.
also i have a HKS blow off valves init. do u think it will affect my warranty if i take it back to dealer? please help
A bigger issue is that the STI has "summer tires," which means NO SNOW driving, but it sounds like you just learned that lesson, albeit the hard way...
Bob
The gumball-soft tread on the STI summer tires just are not made for snow, not at all. They get rock hard at freezing temps.
Do you mean VDC cut in and cut off the throttle? At red line there is a fuel cut off, so VDC kicking in might feel similar, but it's not the same thing.
Or did you mean redline at 20 mph? Or something else?
I imagine you just had wild wheelspin on all 4 tires.
You literally have no traction at all with summer tires in the snow.
Do you mean 20 mph, as juice asked? If it redlined at 20 mph your tires were spinning faster than the car was travelling. It's those summer tires with no snow traction that's the problem.
and if i take back to dealer and the blow off valve affect my warrenty?
Only if it somehow affects something the stock valve would have done, but that's just a guess.
Bob