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Honda Civic Brake Questions



  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    you should check your caliper's sliding pins to make sure they're lubed and not sticking. The caliper sounds like it might be sticking, so start with the sliding pins.

    also definitely bleed the entire brake system, get that old fluid out of there if it hasn't been changing in awhile.
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    It isn't uncommon to replace the front pads 2-3x the rate of the rears, this is considered normal, 100k on rear disk pads is not uncommon. If you replace the rears much less or much more often than that, the proportioning valve that determines how much braking force goes to front -vs- rear may be off. It can be adjusted, but it is best left to a qualified mechanic to do so.

    Most rotors can be turned to remove the warp. Some newer ones are made too thin to be turned and must be replaced, but that is more common for rears which wear slower. Even if you don't need to have it turned, when you replace the pads you should at least remove the glazing that forms on the surface. Just the glazing can cause noise, sticking and squealing. I remove it with a fine sandpaper.

    Make sure the pads and rotors are compatible, some rotors (solid in particular) just don't like metallic or semi-metallic pads.

    You just may need to get some better rotors, solid rotors are the cheapest available, weight less (=higher mileage) but are more prone to warp; ventilated rotors are a major step up. They will cost more but should last longer. Avoid slotted or drilled, they're mostly for show on a Civic and just cost more.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    It is the pads themselves and the small rotors. I assume they are the standard Civic/Integra 10.3" fronts that are dirt cheap just about everywhere - AutoZone Duralast are a good value if you don't want to get a set of Brembo rotors shipped to you.

    Replace the rotors and upgrade to a high quality pad. I like Axxis/PBR Ultimates, but the XBG are probably a little more street-friendly. They can take the heat generated by having too much front weight bias and too little front brake for the vehicle weight. I dislike Hawk HPS intensely because they a not much better than stock and they never seem to fit right (i.e., you have a hard time using the OEM brake shims with them).

    Replace your brake fluid too. Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/DOT4 is very good for the money and c an take the heat generated by the brake system so long as you change it the recommended two-year interval. Lubricate the slider pins on the calipers, as sometimes these get stuck and make the brakes hotter than normal, warping them.

    I just re-read your post and I would note that the rear ratcheting calipers that act as parking brakes sometimes act up and stick, reducing their effectiveness. You may need to replace them and you can buy remanufactured calipers just about anywhere and these, IME, are the same as what the Honda Part Dept. will sell you, but for more money.

    Another suggestion is that you replace all four sets of pads with same compound as this will increase rear brake bias, since Honda uses a less aggressive pad in the rear. Why? Because front biased brakes are generally safer than those that are more balanced, but Honda leaves too much on the table and you can pick up a little better braking with no loss of safety by using the same compound on all four corners.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Warpage is often just melted pad material that gets deposited unevenly on the face of the rotor, which emphasizes the need for a high quality compound with a high operating temperature, at least 850F on FWD cars with their high front weight bias. These deposits can eventually harden the metal underneath them and form a high spot in the metal as the rotor wears down, which then must be turned. Civic rotors are so cheap that it is easier to throw them away. The sandpaper idea is good, but use garnet paper so you don't get aluminum oxide inclusions on the rotor face.

    Solid rotors and pad material compatibility is a new one for me. Never had a problem. Where I have had an issue is using two different brake compounds on the same rotor. Brakes work mostly by adherent friction rather than abrasive friction and this requires a layer of pad material to be deposited on the rotor face, which is where the conflict in compounds comes in.

    I wouldn't even think it would be possible to get solid front rotors for this car, just ventilated. The rear rotors are only going to be solid.

    I would advise the poster with the '94 Civic to also be careful about breaking in his rotors and pads carefully and according to manufacturer directions to get best life and performance from them. The rotors perform best with gentle stops for the first 100-200 miles, then the pads need to be bedded-in with a number (5-10) of medium effort stops from around 45-50mph, with about a minute in between, followed by 5 minutes of driving, then 5 hard stops with about a minute in between, during which time the brakes will start to get hot and smell bad. Not to worry, as this is cooking out the chemicals that may outgas under a hard stop otherwise and reduce brake effectiveness. Keep driving and try not to make any complete stops (do this in a rural area) for 20 minutes. Park the car (at home is fine, you don't have to just stop somewhere) for at least 3-4 hours to let the brakes cool and you're good to go.
  • i have a 07 civic si... i got 3 questionsa to ask..
    1. the problem about the rear tires are for 06 only orfor 07's too?
    2. my car ALWAYS skids in snow even tho im rele careful drivin.. do i just need snow tires or theres a problem with the car..the abs always kick in..
    3. im considering buyin a set of 16's steel wheel from an 07 ex with snow tires just for winter.. would it fit 07 si sedan? i think they have same bolt pattern but i dunno bout the offset, width stuff like that... need help..
  • I have a 97 honda civic ex coupe. I recently changed the front brake pads on the vehicle. I did everything correctly, removed the wheel, unbolted the caliper, removed the caliper, changed out pads, squeezed the caliper back in with a c_clamp, put the caliper back on, greased the bolts and put them back in. but now The petal goes down very far before stopping, and when the petal gets to a certain spot I actually hear a click noise coming from the passenger side wheel well. I have no idea what it is, I bled the line for air, there was none. I don't know where to go next. please help me.
  • bells1bells1 Posts: 7
    I own a 99 honda civic ex w/ 69,585 miles on it. When I asked how much a could sell it for, the mechanic told me that the brake lines were rusted and they're difficult to repair because of where they're located....and basically offered me $2000 for it. Now, I didn't ask him how much he'd give me for it, I just wanted to know how much to sell it for. However, if the "rusted lines" are true, can they be patched or do they really need to be replaced for $1500? Any ideas? Thank you so much!!!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    You should probably get a 2nd opinion on the brake lines but if in fact 2 or 3 mechanics give you the same $1500 estimate then their offer is what you'd expect for someone who's looking to turn a small profit after they fix the car. It's not going to cost THEM $1500 obviously.

    Let's say a "home run" price for this car is $5000, for a really nice clean one--so you'd deduct accordingly for what it would take to make your car clean and ready to roll.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    No patching, unless you don't like living.
  • bells1bells1 Posts: 7
    Thank you for the input! As someone who doesn't know much about cars, I had hoped asking on this site would clarify some of the things I've been told. And, my second opinion told me that everything looked fine and didn't know what the other guy was talking about. That's why I'm glad I asked. Have a great day!
  • bells1bells1 Posts: 7
    Thank you so much for your advice. My 2nd opinion said he thought it was an excellent to good rating and didn't have any idea what the other guy was talking about! Pay it forward...I'll make sure to tell others how helpful your advice and this site are! Have a great day!
  • Did you ever got an answer on your civic break problem? I have a 97 civic and the same thing happened to me today. Can you please let me know what the problem was and what was the solution?
    Thank you!
  • I have had my Honda Civic for a little over 6 months and just this last weekend road in the passenger seat. I knew the ride was rough but not so bad in driver seat. Is there anything that can be done to smooth out the ride?
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Buy a sedan - it has a softer suspension.
  • You could check the tire pressure and let out a few pounds, and I guess you could install more compliant shocks/struts. Are you using stock tires or something very low profile?
  • The tires are the ones that were on it when I bought it. I considered perhaps tires and shocks. My husband thought that anything different as far as shocks would change the way it handled. Thanks for the info...I'll check into both.
  • Well with better shocks that factory, it might handle better.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Where are you going to get more compliant dampers or springs? OEM is as soft as it gets. Koni only has their sport model dampers out - too firm. Tokico sells dampers as well, but only from a little more aggressively damped non-adjusable HPs to a even firmer adjustable HTS model.
  • I don't have a clue about what or to suggestions. OEM? Will this be costly? Thought about going back to dealership that sold me the car and trying to trade, but would probably get "screwed' in the deal.
  • Good point but I was using the term "compliant" to mean "responsive through a wide range of conditions". This is not the same as "soft". I guess a better definition of a "compliant" shock, in terms of upgrading from OEM, would be "more sophisticated response".

    So it's more like "agrees with the condition it is working under".
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