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2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu



  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    Always when any of my cars were pulling left or right, they do an allignment and it doesnt pull anymore. and by pulling i mean if you're driving on a straight road and partially release the steering wheel and the car merges left or right; thats what i mean by pulling. and yes allignment issues could be w/o pulling, however pulling is a possible cause of allignment. allignment is the first thing to check for a problem like pulling
  • vanman1vanman1 Posts: 1,397
    You may just need a break pad cleaning.
  • Took the car to the dealership I was told that the rotor are glaz to stop hard if they start to make noise.
  • I recently purchased a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu (new). The dealer swapped out the 18" wheels on my 2LT with the 17" rims from the 1LT. The tire pressure decal on the inside door, however, is for the 18" rims. What is the recommended tire pressure?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Same pressure you have been using before on the 17 inch.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Alignment is certainly a possibility. It could also be a dragging brake so a quick look at these for signs of uneven wear or discolored rotors should be done when the car is initially raised onto alignment rack. Done without any tear down. A quick check for worn or broken suspension/steering components.
    Don't align to stop pull, but to factory spec. If still pulling after brakes have been eliminated, then a single tire is suspect. Rare, but it happens.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    1 Dealer is being slow on fix to tiny dent and scratches when picked up, $1500 worth.
    2 Deforming weather seal at roof line and along rear window. I'm guessing this occurs in carwash and I've seen alot of vehicles where this has occured. Poor engineering.
    3 Foam seal along lower edge rear window, inside, coming out of place.
    4 Discovered engineering flaw with dash vents for A/C. They can not be pointed high enough to do efficient cooling and at highest point flow directly in face causing dry eyes. I'm only 5'8". Dummy is dumb.
    5 I released latch and pushed in that area to open door. Door liner snapped.
    6 Steering wheel is to hard and worse is that it has a strange contour with a high point that wants to fit into the joint of thumb and palm. It gets painful after driving. Dummy could not tell them about this either.
    7 Issue with warning light not going out until after engine was restarted.
    8 Security light would not go out. Started engine four times before it went away.
    9 TSB for missing diodes on cooling fan circuit. Dealer says my VIN not included. I physically and electrically checked for their presence. They are not there!
    10 I'm finicky about tires and thought these Firestones were poor for the vehicle. Discovered they were base all-season passenger tire. Checked my window sticker and it clearly states "Touring Tires". Such better tires would go a long way toward aleviating the slight vibration at highway speeds which is felt at wheel, in seat, and hard armrest. It is like Chinese water torture, after a couple of hundred miles it becomes painful to me.
    11 Discovered how poorly the vehicle really handles, after break-in, on the interstate. Hard to keep it between lines and feels like there is play at steering wheel. Took to service to have checked. They aligned, but was told that is how the vehicles with EPS are. Not satisfied I complained again when it went in for seal issue. They did not even write it down and I was again told normal. Took to another dealer and they told me previous forgot to zero EPS after align. Back at my dealer, I took in for part recieved and again complained of steering and handling. I asked if they had zero'ed and recalibrated steering after the alignment. They assured me that they had. Something is awry and I am not happy.
    12 Doing a sweeping left turn into third lane, road wet, the rear broke loose and was starting to come around. I let off gas and steered into it, saving me from contacting curb. Either the ESC is not working properly or it is slower than I am. I won't bet my life on it.
    13 After about a thousand miles of interstate, several stops, I had to do a near panic stop. Traffic suddenly came to stop downtown Chicago. It felt like braking was weak. I tested the braking some and decided it felt like rear braking was inadequate, like applying front brake on motorcycle without applying rear. Such things as defective proportioning valve or divertor valve entered my mind, but this one has ABS. Still, I elected to push pedal to floor while stopped and then rear braking was better for awhile. I repeated that about every 150 miles for the next 1500 miles. Issue seemed to go away.
    14 Slowing for a traffic light, right front caliper sticks causing decreased braking and shaking. It was not the piston, but the caliper sticking on the slide and why it was shaking. More pedal pressure and it broke loose.
    15 With colder weather, transmission slips going for third gear, until it warms up. Feels like it was kicked into neutral for about a second before it engages. Delay is verified by watching tach which hesitates a second before dropping RPM.
    16 This is a reserved number for when I remember or encounter other issues. This is far more things than I would expect from a new vehicle.

    The BU does have some good points. Peppy when coupled with the AT6 and MPG is pretty good. DIC indicated 29.5 MPG for trip of about 2500 miles. About 2200 of that was interstate and all but once, the old way of checking showed I was actually get about 1 MPG more than the DIC indicated. DIC indicates that at a steady 55 MPH I should see near 40 MPG.
  • >>15 With colder weather, transmission slips going for third gear, until it warms up. Feels like it was kicked into neutral for about a second before it engages. Delay is verified by watching tach which hesitates a second before dropping RPM. <<

    I also have an issue with the trans BUT I have an 08 BU, 4cyl, 4 speed trans.
    I can't figure out if its the engine or trans. When I accelerate, sometimes the engine will rev pass 5k rpm but wont change gears causing poor acceleration.Other times the RPM wont go pass 3k . But after about 10 min , its back to normal.I called Onstar to see if they can do a diagnostic check while I'm driving. According to them, everything looks normal. I have 13k on the Bu. I dont think my issue is the weather because , yesterday the temp at 8am was 25 degrees out , drove to work and it worked ok . I'll bring into the dealer at 15k :confuse:
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Is the vehicle constantly accelerating with the RPM?
    Which gear or gears are effected and what speed range?
    Do you have the paddle shift or ability to manually shift?
    Have you checked the fluid level?
    Check if you have the diodes in the cooling fan circuit. They should be near the connectors if I interpret wiring diagram correctly. If they are not there, you might need the jumper harness fix which adds them. There is at least one reported case of missing diodes causing TCM, transmission control module, to fail. (check TSB's)
    Also there has been an issue with transmission linkage having slipped resulting in vehicles coming out of park. Maybe yours is out of adjustment enough that you are not firmly in Drive.
    Without knowing more specifices, your situation could be the result of anything related to transmission and shifting.
  • e net rider
    I have an 08 LS, auto trans, 4 cyl. I don't have the paddle shift.
    Its an intermittent issue . Sometimes, when I accelerate, It will rev past 5k RPM but wont shift gears (downshift ,I guess) Other times, when I accelerate , it will only rev to 2k RPM and the car just crawls without changing gears . After a few miles , the car shifts ok . This started in the fall , I believe . I hapened once and I just dismissed it
    I'll check the fluid and diodes.Do you have a link for GM's TSBs?
    I went to my Chev dealer back in Feb for an oil change, tire rotation and general inspection. I would hope the trans fluid level was checked at that time
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I don't have exact link for TSB relating to 08-09 Malibu, but it is easy to find. A couple of them are for hybrid only, but the others could all be related to damage caused by the missing diodes.
    I saw a picture at dealer that showed the fix which was simply disconnecting the plug at the fan motors and then plugging in the short jumper harness that contained the diodes.
    Since mine does not have the diodes I can not say exactly where they are. I did get the page showing the wiring diagram with the cooling fans circuits. The way it was drawn seemed to indicate that the diodes should be located near or right at the connector plugging into the fan motor. With engine off and cold so there would be no power sent to motor, I unplugged from the fan and used a diode checker across the two pins in the connector. An ohm meter should be fine for this. Put the two probes, one in each socket (pin) and look for resistance. Then reverse the meter leads and check again. One direction should indicate an open, infinite resistance. The other should indicate some resistance, maybe about 10K ohms, certainly more than a few hundred. There is no danger to system because the relays feeding the power will be open.

    Clowns at jiffy dumped wifes tranny fluid. She declined the change and they did not refill. It still had enough fluid to work fairly well, for awhile. By time she discovered an issue the damage was already done. And sometime passed before she revealed what happened at Jiffy so that I was able to put the situation together so as to explain the missing 5 qts of fluid when there was no leak.
    I'd check it before going back for service, just in case.
    When it goes to 5K, is it upshifting at all. I assume vehicle is moving, so is it sticking in low or some other gear? Does the RPM change substantially without any change in speed? (couple of hundred RPM or more)
    As to 2K RPM, you are still not clear. Shift points vary widely with the amount you push the accelerator. With mild to moderate pedal, from a stop you should see at least one upshift, depending upon final speed. Not sure on 4 speed but it seems that before 50 MPH you should have shifted into fourth gear and acheived TCC lockup. If you are not able to feel the shifts, find a safe area, no traffic, keeping one eye on road and the other on tachometer. Slowy accelerate and watch for RPM drops indicating a shift. RPM will again rise to the next shift point. Abandon eye on tach if the road needs your eyes!
    Another test you can do which will determine slippage in low gear or reverse clutches is check stall RPM. Test should be limited to under 30 seconds with at least a few minutes between to allow cooling of fluid.
    Set brake and push brake to floor. If any vehicle movement happens, immediately release accelerator!
    Push accelerator to floor with previous instructions. RPM should come up to around 1000 RPM or slightly higher. This is the stall speed of the torque convertor and I don't know the exact stall speed for this vehicle. The RPM should hold steady at that RPM indicating no slippage in that particular clutch combination.
    It is suggested that be done in all available shifter positions. The stall RPM should be very close for all ranges. If that passes, you have at least eliminated some alarming conditions.
    You might even want to run it by a transmission shop that is reputable as a rebuilder. Believe it or not, quite a few dealers farm tranny work to such shops. It saves them the extra training and equipment necessary to do the job themselves. And most warranty jobs would be a tranny swap. Also a reputable shop will have a hand held unit that they can monitor while driving to pick up on problems that might not set a code or check engine.
  • ohgeezohgeez Posts: 12
    With 5100 miles my 2009 1ls out of no where has developed a front end wheal/tire vibration noticeably pronounced at 60+ mph. Does feel like a worn wheal bearing buzzing vibration. Just can't believe it on a new car, bringing it in to dealer. Has anyone experienced this and what was the fix? thanks.
    Oh by the way also have that clunky/knock noisy suspension.
    I do love this car otherwise. :cry:
  • ohgeezohgeez Posts: 12
    With 5100 miles my 2009 1ls out of no where has developed a front end wheal/tire vibration noticeably pronounced at 60+ mph. Does feel like a worn wheal bearing buzzing vibration. Just can't believe it on a new car, bringing it in to the dealer. Has anyone experienced this and what was the fix? thanks.
    Oh by the way also have that clunky/knock noisy suspension.
    I do love this car otherwise. :cry:
  • To recap from an earlier post
    I was was getting sluggish shifing. Also at 5k RPM , it wont shift gears . Same goes for 2k, no pep on acceleration and wont change gears .
    The Check Engine light came on .I called On Star . They confirmed the engine misfired . Later on. SERVICE TRACTION indicator came on.
    Its most noticeable when I first start out in the morning .I brought it into my dealer (13,600 k on the car). After I described the situation, he said he had other cars with simialr issues and it was a cat converter .
    He ran tests an confirmed my cat converter on the manfold was bad ( he said there are 2 converters on this model). He said the part is on a national back order because of the high demand . The high alcohol content ( GOV EPA RATING ) in the gas caused it to go bad . So I have the car now , still driveable and I have to wait for the cat to arrive . I wonder if GM will modify the cat beacuse of the alcohol content in the gas ? I'm located in the NE
  • Regarding the suspension noise you mentioned, I had a similar noise develop in my 2008 Saturn Aura. It clunked on turns, driveway transitions and when I reversed direction. It was a worn pitman arm bushing. Car had 15,000 miles on it. Service tech told me that he has seen bad bushings in cars under 1000 miles. It took only an hour to replace the part and totally eliminated the noise.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    First I"ve heard of anyone loosing a cat because of alcohol content. 10% is not very high. The alcohol should make your engine burn cleaner, oxygenated fuel. The main reason for the cat is to burn excess hydrocarbons, burn CO turning it into CO2. If for some reason you were running very rich, that excess would be taken care of by cat but it might also be so much that the cat basically melts inside. GM was on Christmas shutdown till the 5th. I checked at GM parts direct and they only show one cat and it is a special order only item.
    Did you possibly mean O2 sensor? There are two of them. A front and rear or position 1 & 2, ie pre cat and aft cat. GM parts shows an updated one for the rear, but Rock Auto shows two different ones for the front, for A4 or A6 tranny. They too are special order, non-stock items.
  • The service manager clearly said cat. No mention of the Co2 sensor . I guess I just have to wait and see what was written on the service ticket when its replaced . I , too was a liitle skeptical about it . But who knows?? What scares me is , if its is the cat design , and nothing is done to change it , I may have to get it replaced several times . If I see a pattern happening ,I'll get rid of the car before the emissions warranty expires . The cat warranty is 8 years, or 80k miles. I never had a cat replaced with such a low mileage . I only had a cat replaced once , years ago with my Chev Cavalier and that was right before the warranty expired ,50k . The only symptom was it was making a rattling noise .
    Time will tell . He did clear the computer codes and told me not to accelerate hard .I will keep you informed when its finally replaced
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    The 2.4 has 2 converters, 1 at the manifold and one just forward of the resonator. So 2 converters, 1 resonator and 1 muffler. Lots of junk on the 2.4.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Having the service TCS is interesting. I can easily see how that could cause the other issues. I'm uncertain of it being the other way around.
  • I found out that the 4 cyl engines use a closed-coupled converter system (2 converters) Apparently other car companies use this system on 4 cyl engines as well. If you do a search here on this site (search forums ) for closed-coupled converter , someone had similar issues. I also did a google search and found a 2005 Cavalier owner with the same issue that I have .. High rev , , not shifting
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