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Toyota Solara Audio Systems

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  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Thanks for the tip, jhnptbrg!

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Claire

    HOST

  • I have had this problem for 2 years as well on my 2005 Solara. Finally took it to Toyota today before reading any of this, and this is exactly what I told them was wrong. They had no idea what I was talking about, suggested replacing the radio at a local radio store as they don't work on radios. Seriously??? Wow. They are idiots.

    I then decided to read the internet and see what I could find, and of course, many of you have the same problem. I have ordered the parts you mentioned, and will plan on installing them myself. Thank you so much for posting this solution. I have serious concerns about service reps at a car dealership that have no idea how to diagnose an issue, even when you tell them exactly what is wrong. I told them there was a switch that boosts the audio when you put the top down, and you always here the audio cut in and out. Now it does that ALL THE TIME, so the switch has gone bad. They said there is no switch at first. When I picked the car up, they said yes there is a switch but it worked for us, never cut out.

    God they are idiots. Oh well. I'll save myself the money in doing it myself for a total of about 30 bucks. I will let you know how it works out, but thanks so much as I have contemplated selling the car just because I am so tired of not being able to listen to anything.
  • cashkycashky Posts: 1
    could you also send me the info. i have the same problem and any pictures would be great also Thanks

    crashky@live.com
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Hi, cashky,

    blozano posted the fix a few times uptopic -- you can find a detailed explanation here:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101569/112#MSG112

    jhnptbrg posted details about accessing the manual here if you're having trouble finding the switch:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101569/122#MSG122

    (and we're still waiting to hear how danielp0623 made out.)

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Claire

    HOST

  • rdkingrdking Posts: 12
    I'm getting ready to try the fix myself on my wife's 2008 SLE convertible. I don't think I will have any problem finding the switch once the panel is removed. I am concerned about removing the panel though. I haven't read anything that tells me how to remove the panel once I have removed the three retaining screws. Do you just pull the panel toward you or do you lift the panel up toward the rear window? I don't want to damage the panel so I'm a little hesitant to go into this without first knowing exactly how the panel is removed.
  • jhnptbrgjhnptbrg Posts: 4
    I would post the graphics if I could figure out how to do that, but haven't yet.

    Instructions say:

    "using a screwdriver (with tip taped) disengage the 3 claws and 4 clips and remove the panel upper"

    then

    "using a screwdriver, disengage the 5 clips and remove the [lower] panel"

    My memory is that I pulled the panel away from the side of the car first, then lifted it upwards...but I was being gentle for the same fear you voiced, and am not exactly sure of the directions of tugs that freed the panel - mine took some pressure/force, but didn't require "ripping" it away.

    Good luck!
  • rdkingrdking Posts: 12
    Thanks, jhnptbrg. I'm assuming that the 3 claws referenced are at the top of the panel and thus would require the panel to be slid upward. Also, I was not aware that the lower panel had to be removed to perform the switch change. Hopefully, my fears of doing this will prove unwarranted in the end.
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    If you have photos, you can post them here by uploading them to a hosting site like tinypic or photobucket.

    Then, make your image show up in a post by using the IMG button to post a link to the photo.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Claire

    HOST

  • Having the same problem - 2007 Solara convertible XLE. Haven't tackled the problem as yet but when researching, ran into a couple of interesting links. Posting for the benefit of others and my benefit when I get around to tackling it.

    First link is about some XM radio install but it gives some diagrams of the things to do for removing some of the panels (e.g. see page 4). The whole install as described is an overkill for this fix but parts of the description/procedure should be useful.

    http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PT546-06061inst.pdf

    The other link is the you tube video where the guy is showing what to disconnect in order to make the switch inoperable. Based on the description of the fix that I have read in this forum, this guy might have overdone it with seat removals etc. to drum up more business for him.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XIw_EmWdyM

    If anybody has more pictures of their own effort to add to this forum, it would be very much appreciated.

    Bimal
  • bigd308bigd308 Posts: 1
    edited July 2013
    After 2 trips to the village idiots at the Toyota dealer and being told that 1) they couldn't duplicate the problem, but 2) if I wanted to pay them $100 they would do further evaluations., I left in discust.
    Thanks to this forum, you nailed the problem and I fixed it in an hour. Right now, I only disconnected the switch but I may go ahead and replace the switch.
    For those of you who are hesitant to get involved in removing the panels, it is easy. Just take it slow so you don't break any clips.
    Thanks again.
  • I read this thread while sitting at my local Toyota dealership, having the same problem as others, radio at first cutting out when the top was going up or down, then started doing it frequently, and even having the volume or bass seem to boost at times, so I was pretty certain it was that switch.

    After waiting for 45 min, I let them know I thought it was the switch, and that's what I wanted replaced. Desk guy said "OK". another 45 min later, still waiting, I go and ask the desk guy- any idea when it will be done? he says they don't know what's wrong with it yet...really? I thought I asked you to replace the switch? "It doesn't have a switch"... I said- I thought you might say that, so here is where it is, and here is the part# (took it from page #13 of this thread) but he comes back to me telling me that part# is for a courtesy switch in the trunk...

    He goes back to the tech to tell them to replace whatever switch I'm talking about, but comes back with "there is no switch, we think it's the amplifier" I said I thought they might say that too, and no way am I paying $800 for that when they're not even sure that's what it is...I'm still trying to access pics of the exact location of the switch, my iphone isn't the fastest, but by then they got it buttoned back up and sending me on my way with a "sorry, bring it back when we can spend more time diagnosing it". Why is this so difficult for Toyota to figure out???

    So now to decide if I try to fix it- what is the correct part#? Or what is it officially called? Or do I take my laptop in to them and educate them for a nice big bill...stay tuned
  • blozanoblozano Posts: 23
    Amazing, switch is easy to change. It is same switch as courtesy switch. I have picture of switch but do not have panel removed and picture of switch in position. Let me know your e-mail.
  • brewski55brewski55 Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    https://www.google.com/search?q=84231-06011&client=firefox&hs=TvD&rls=org.mozill- - a:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ADIWUoyuMcL1iwLaqYCQBw&ved=0CAkQ_A- - UoAQ&biw=1600&bih=1038#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=TG1gZD4J5Dr3OM%3A%3BWPbWPeU_PE1WuM- - %3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.toyotapart.com%252Fmm5%252Fgraphics%252F00000001%252F8- - 4231-06011-Switch-Courtesy-Lamp-1c.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.toyotapart.com%2- - 52F84231-06011.html%3B700%3B700

    You need to click on google image after clicking on link to the picture .
    P/N 84231-06011 replace old P/N 84231-06010
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    edited August 2013
    Thanks for posting this, brewski! Here's a direct link to the photo of the switch.

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    Claire

    HOST

  • After much consternation on my part and the ranting of my wife on the radio fading in and out, I decided to go ahead and try to replace the switch myself. I had ordered the switch and four panel clips some months ago, but have put off replacing it because I just wasn't convinced that I could do the job even though most here say it's not that bad a task.

    These are my observations that I think may help anyone else who is considering to attempt the fix themselves. First, after removing the cupholder/armrest, the rear panel comes off in one piece, not two as I inferred from previous posts. Removal of the cupholder/armrest is a piece of cake; one screw under the felt pad in the cupholder and then lift straight up. The three screws that hold the panel onto the car are: 1.underneath the passenger seat belt return slot at the top of the panel (be careful when prying off the cover, it doesn't take a lot of pressure to release it), 2. in the middle of the panel (this one is hidden until you remove the cupholder/armrest), and 3. underneath a small tab located next to the rear passenger side seat belt return slot (at the top of the seat back). It is important to remember which screws go where, they are not the same size; two are short (about 1/2 in.) and two are long (about 1 in.)

    Now that you have removed the screws, the panel can be pulled off, but don't be surprised if you break one or two of the clips in the process. I would recommend you order the four clips as suggested by blozano. When I say pull the panel off, I mean pull toward you as you sit in the back seat facing the panel. Ok, we are almost there, but this is one of my biggest frustrations in removing the panel. There is a tab that inserts into a slot at the bottom rear corner of the panel. I had to fish my arm down to the tab and push it through the slot. This is hard to explain but when you start the job, it will be clearer. You may have someone shine a flashlight down behind the panel so you can see it clearly. Once the tab is disengaged from the slot, the panel can be pulled completely out. Remember to unhook the courtesy light wiring harness. You will see it, and it's simply a pinch and pull to disconnect.

    The next step is to raise the top about half way. I suggest this because you have more light to see what you're doing and if you are tall like me, the extra room is needed to manuever. I had no trouble locating the switch. Just look for a white wiring harness connector toward the rear of the panel opening. The switch is located just above the white connector. As described by blozano, the switch is held to a bracket by two #20 torx screws. Removing the switch was my second frustration because of the tight quarters you are working in. I had to use a small ratched and torx bit. Luckily I have a motorcycle so I've accumulated a lot of speciality tools over the years. I first tried to use a torx screwdriver, but found that it was too tall to get into the space. If you can find a torx tool like an allen wrench this would also work. Once the switch is removed the wiring harness is disconnected by pinching and pulling apart.

    Now you are home free. Everything else goes back in reverse order. Put the new switch in, replace the torx screws, reconnect the wiring harness, and put the panel back on. The only snag I had was dealing with that tab at the bottom of the panel and pushing it back into the slot. It helps to have skinny arms. Don't try to force this. If you are patient and work with it enough it will finally succumb to your pressure and slip into the slot. You may have to replace any broken panel clips and be sure to reattach the courtesy light wiring harness before you snap the panel back into place. Rescrew the three panel screws, put the cupholder/armrest back into place and secure with the screw and replace the felt pad in the cupholder (remember to put the correct length screws back the way they came out). Viola, you're done! I tried the radio by raising and lowering the top several times and drove around the block and everything seems to work fine.

    In all, I guess I spent about an hour and fifteen minutes on the job, but now that I've done it and know more about what is involved and what tools I need, I think I could easily do it in 30-45 minutes. I hope this helps those of you who have hesitated to try the fix. It's really not that bad; it just takes some patience and once you start the process, some of the steps that you may have trouble visualizing will become evident.
  • Thank you so much for your detailed "How To". I bought the part ($25 in stock) and changed it out in less than 1 hour without breaking any of the plastic clips. I typically don't work on cars, but this was an easy repair (as long as you have a Torx screwdriver). This saved me so much money and hassle. Thanks to everyone who posts their knowledge for free. The internet is GREAT!
  • msleximslexi Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    The radio/cd/cassette in my 2005 solara convertable appears to function, but there is absolutely no sound at all. The sound just quit with no warning on my way home the other day. The car has the JBL Premium Audio package with GPS.. I'm wondering whether there might be a reset somewhere, a blown fuse, or perhaps the amp is cooked. Any ideas, suggestions or comments would be appreciated! Could it be the switch that I've read about in so many posts?
  • Could you post a close up picture of the part i should disconnect, and how to disconnect it. I think i found it, but i couldn't get it apart. Could i just cut the wires ?
  • rdkingrdking Posts: 12
    Here is a link to the part with picture.

    http://www.toyotapart.com/84231-06011.html
  • Have pictures, please send me your e-mail as I do not know how to upload on tis site.
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