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Mazda B-Series Engine Problems



  • try installing a new nikki carb. i did and it runs great now. try ebay.
  • I currently have a 88 B2200 truck that i want to install a B2600i engine out of a 92. How much swapping needs to be done? i believe the fuel tank along with the computer and wiring needs to be swapped. I just removed the 2200 engine and would like some advice prior to yanking out the 2600i. I also know the engine mounts are different but should mount up fine. Any advice would be welcome.
  • you can swap any engine! it may just take a little work. with most swaps you normally will have to change the mounts. there are so many issues to look at but the esiest way to do it is to do a complete swap. (engine tranny computer and harness) there are less things you have to build
  • if your engine is causing you too much grief i have an 86 b2000 engine that i'm wanting to sell. its got 0 miles on everthing but the block, oil pan and 5speed manual tranny. the engine was build with all new parts by car quest 2 years ago and i've even bought a header and new intake manifold, clutch and flywheel for it. every thing has been cleaned and the engine, header, intake and a few more visible parts have been primed and high-temp painted. it has no carb though but if you'd lie it just make an offer and we can discuss it. i can even have it shipped if needed.
  • dog493dog493 Posts: 2
    :) I was thinking about getting one,are they any good? year 90s Thanks
  • dog493dog493 Posts: 2
    Iwas thinking a about getting a used mazda 4000 4/4 4.0 v6 in the late 90;s are they ok ???
  • bifftbifft Posts: 1
    2007 B-3000, history: She smacked her driver rear bumper into a very mature Ash tree while backing out of a parking slip. She only traveled about 18" but they went by real fast! The driver side bumper crumpled properly, the only visual damage. Since, at least twice a month, she's shut-off in mid-flight. Heavy traffic, open road city hiways or country lanes; she has no real preference. She had a look over in approximately december 2007 and was pronounced a hypochondriac, nothing was wrong! Yet...! She's been in the shop for three weeks now and the latest cure is to replace "the computer", fortunately on Mazda's dime.
    Otherwise, best darn truck I've ever owned!
    Any ideas?
  • rds5rds5 Posts: 2
    My 1989 Mazda B2200 pickup dies after warm-up. It restarts but runs extremely rough with no power. Any ideas out there on what the problem might be
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    I'd start by checking the fuel and air filters. but you may also have too much back pressure from a clogged exhaust. another thing could be the carb. the truck is almost 20 years old and could just need a simple tune up
  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    I have a 1987 B2200 and I am having a lot of problem with vacume lines. Is there a diagram of lines for a california truck and a diagram of a non-california truck so I can figure out which is totally needed and which are not? :sick:
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    oh yeah. just pick up a chiltons manuel for your truck. it'll be no more than $20 and will have everything you need (complete wiring and vacume line diagrams) :)
  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    Hmmmmmm the person thats fixing my truck has a copy but claims there is no diagram. Maybe he has a different book.


  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    I have a problem with a 1987 B2200 pickup that idles very high. Someone said it could be the carb. Is there a different carb that will work? I saw where someone mentioned a Nikki carb? Could you please give me some info on that? The person fixing the truck also thinks it might be the float and is just trying to fix that. Any comments or suggestions are very welcome. (help)

    Sandy! :cry:
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    i have an 86 b2000 and a chitons book for my truck and it has all the wiring diagrams for the truck in it. the problem might be that they diagrams are very hard to read and understand. the best thing you could do is call your local mazda or domestic (us mazda trucks are built by ford) repair shop and see if they could fax you a copy of the diagram.

    no worries,
  • I recently changed my oil pump, water pump, and timing belt. Plugs as well. Before I took it apart it ran well and did not smoke at all. I completed it and it runs strong but smokes out the tailpipe quite a bit.
    Put the # 1 at top dead center. Took timing cover off and saw the mark on crankshaft pulley was in line. As well as the A mark on the cam pulley.
    I also took the valve cover off and saw that the #1 springs were uncompressed, but I believe were closed. Cause I put my finger in the spark plug hole and felt compression.
    I am at a loss, I don't know what I'm missing. Can anybody help me?
  • Plus I also put a timing gun on it and it looks correct.
  • hey i am dealing with the same mess on the same series of truck i was wondering did you ever find a good diagram for vacuum lines
  • I was just wondering if you still had your B-2000 engine for sale. If you do, I was wondering how much you wanted for it and what part of the U.S. you live in.

  • I have a 2002 B2300 P/U. Went to change the thermostat and found the engine cooling system eroding internally. Seems like the wrong coolant was put in the engine. Funny thing, the coolant has not been replaced. It was topped off twice. 1 by the dealer and 1 by the oil change place. 78k Miles and no one ever recommended the coolant be replaced during all of the service visits. Because the warranty expired, MAZDA disavowed any responsibility but offered a couple hundred dollars in service credits. BEWARE the coolant you use. DO NOT USE MAZDA EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT. See owners manual page 275. I believe this is what was in my engine because when it was drained, it was orange/brown in color NOT GREEN.
    WORD to the wise.
  • TimSCTimSC Posts: 1
    I have an engine miss under load or heavy acceleration. It seems to be much worse in cold weather. I have changed the plugs and plug wires with no help. I have the ECM code checked, it indicated a temperature modual fault. I changed the electronic thermostat, but no help, trucks runs in normal temperature range. I have visually inspected the coil and see no issues like cracks or moisture. The truck has 118K miles and has been well maintained. Any one have a similar problem?
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