Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Explorer Air Conditioner and Heater Problems

11112131517

Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I would first check for low coolant in your system, radiator and bottle. It could be low.
  • I've had both of those topped off for at least 6 months
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited January 2012
    Ok. Then next, I'd consider a bubble in the system. If this is the 4.0L, I'm not positive, but they used to have a trouble spot up high in the engine where an air bubble could remain if the coolant were changed or ever got low. You bled it off with a little plug in the top of the intake manifold somewhere, can't remember. It's been a long time since I had that engine.

    If that's not it, you may have a blockage in the lines somewhere else, crimped heater hose, obstruction in the heater core, but something is blocking your circulation of the hot water. There used to be a valve that was vacuum actuated in the engine compartment, near the firewall, if I recall that cut the water off when cooling was requested, and opened up the hose to the core when heat was needed. Not sure if they still used that in 01. Check the heater lines and see if they are all straight and clear. If so, take them off the nipples at the firewall, so the heater core is opened up, and try blowing through the core. I'll bet it's plugged up.

    The bad news is, if that's the case, you may need to replace it - and that's an all day job, for a mechanic!

    Failing all of that - the only things left would be a failing thermostat that isn't closing enough to heat up the engine, but you said the heat gauge is mid-range as it should be, right? That leaves the water pump, either being worn out so the impeller isn't impelling the water adequately anymore. Odd, but possible. Or, your belt is slipping enough to not turn the water pump fast enough to circulate your water through the heater system. Another messy job to check, and if I'm right, replace. If you check it, you may as well just replace it, it'll already be out.

    Best of luck! It's a good car, even in the golden years.....
  • So here's my problem. I have heat in the second row and all 3 speeds of it. But in the dash, I don't have any heat and I don't have the third of 4 speeds on the dial. 2 and 3 are the same. The front will blow, just not heat. There is a clicking sound when I put the temp dial up to the hot red tab. If I want to lose the clicking, I just return the temp dial back to just off the blue cold tab. It doesn't matter because I get the same cool air in both situations. It seems there is no resistance on the temp dial either. I'm not sure if there should be, but it spins around pretty easily. It also seems as though when the blower is on, it is inconsistently blowing....like it loses speed. Anybody got an idea on this one? Please advise....

    Bob
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Body Control Module is looking more suspicious to me now. You have random electrical malfunctions. The resistance on the hot/cold knob will be negligable, because it's a reostat, electrical, moving a blend door, with another motor, so no resistance is normal. The clicking indicates a stuck switch or door under the dash in the system.
    The speed malfunction in the front blower switch could be the BCM again, a bad switch, or a bad fan motor. Hoping it's the motor, and very likely could be. But combined with the window issue, I'm liking the BCM more all the time. Has this car ever been flooded?
  • No, not to my knowledge. I'm very green, where is this BCM located? Is it major work to replace? As for the stuck switch or door, what's the nest way to check that out? Thanks for your input....

    Bob
  • we are having trouble with heat in a 2006 ford explorer. it seems the back is heat is working, but it seems that the front heat is not. I have changed the thermostat, it didn't help. we have noticed some clicking under the dash. from what i have read in other posts some the dampers are not opening and closing. I have also read other posts stating this is could be an expensive propositions. some say yes some say no. can someone please tell me what i should be looking for and can a normal joe fix it. thanks for your help. :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The BCM is in different locations on different years, but on yours I THINK it's on the driver's side, in the back, behind the panel in the cargo area. If it isn't, you may need to search for a Ford Shop manual online and find it that way. May be able to get a used one that could still be good and swap it out to see if that's it without spending a King's Ransom.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If you have heat in the back, you have hot water, and the clicking under the dash usually indicates a stuck blend door. That's not good news, very expensive and difficult to find and fix, usually requires removing the unit under there. Sorry to give you bad news. Personally, I'd take it somewhere, unless you have unlimited patience, considerable mechanical ability, and lotsa tools.
  • I appreciate all your help.

    Cheers
  • I suddenly have had a problem with heater,it blows only cold air BUT when you put it on heat there is a clicking noise from inside dash. have got it all dismantled but i still cannot locate what needs to be replaced, also I would like to know what i go and ask for at parts store.

    Any help wold be much appreciated as well as put problem to rest and most of all , (from my wife words) "please help its cold going into work"
  • booey1booey1 Posts: 3
    Not sure how accessible it is but your problem lies with the "Blend Door" OR "Blend Door Actuator"
  • booey1booey1 Posts: 3
    Upon further thought....... you need a bland door. the actuator is working, it's a motor that has a gear on it that inserts in to the blend door. The blend door is broken and thats why you hear a clicking, the clicking is the actuator that is turning (gears) but unable to move the blend door.
    To replace the blend door the heater case will have to be removed from the vehicle after the dashboard s removed & after the a/c system has been discharged & disconnected at the firewall. It's about a 6 hour job for a pro.
    Don't recommend you do this unless you are very well mechanically inclined.
  • I hope you are still on this site as I need some more information on exactly where i am putting my hands in the dash..Uggg no heat, please help!!
  • OMG you are awesome, thank you sooooo much for the details..i found it within 5 minutes...i have heat........i love this site..Girl Power Baby!!!
  • My 2004 had the exact same problem. The Ford dealer here wanted 7 hours labor to replace the whole bellows unit because they had to take out the dash. With this advice the repair took 15 minutes.
  • mchermokmchermok Posts: 3
    Hello!

    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer fully loaded. It has the Climate control system, and when I turn on the heat using the AUTOMATIC button, instead of like, the FLOOR button, there is a fairly loud hum noise, and the electric system seems to bog down...if i hit the FLOOR button, it stops.... this all while i have the temp set at 90 degrees....seems to only occur when hitting the AUTOMATIC button.

    the sound is kind of a low hum...almost like a soft noise a car horn would make if the battery was about dead....

    Let me know what you think or if you need more info.

    Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Most likely the bellows in one of the engine vacuum operated servomotors is failing (leaking).
  • mchermokmchermok Posts: 3
    I kind of wondered if it was some kind of ' vacuum ' issue.... is it ok to drive for a while without fixing? as long as I don't use the AUTOMATIC function on the Heater controls?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    I don't foresee any harm as a result.
  • mchermokmchermok Posts: 3
    ok, thanks for answering my questions, one more :)

    Is there anything I can do at home myself to pinpoint the issue, or test your theory of the "bellows in one of the engine vacuum operated servomotors"

    Just wondering....

    Thanks!
  • What your describing is the exact same problem I have had on my personal 06' Explorer and on my work 07' Explorer. The blend door motor is broken. It has plastic gears inside that break for several siffferent reasons but usually it's from having the fan turned up while adjusting the temp. On both the 06' and the 07 (and even on the older generation) the blend door motor is located on the driver's side underneath the side paneling just in front of the center console (under the plastic right next to your right knee that runs along the fan, heat control and radio portion of the center console). Pull the plastic panel (the one between the center console and the carpet) off. The panel is secured with a large plastic push pin in the front near the gas pedal and with snap clips on the back. The blend door motor is a little plastic box about 3"X4"X1" big. It has 3 or 4 metric screws that secure it to the blend door box. They are a pain but can be taken out without tearing out the center dash plastic. Unplug the electrical connector, plug the new one in and make sure that the male plastic lug from the motor is lined up with the female receptacle in the blend door box and reinstall the screws. The part is relatively inexpensive through DORMAN automotive products (www.dormanproducts.com) at around $40 to $60 depending on exactly which one you need. Mine used Part #604-211 as did the 07' and an 05' I worked on. Hope that helped anyone else out.
  • mckee622mckee622 Posts: 1
    The air in my 2007 explorer will only blow through the floor vents. Even when I push the button on the control panel to switch to ceiling vents, It continues to blow through the floor vents. Help please!
  • Starting to experience multiple problems - the digital display on the electronic climate control quit working, the outside temp / compass digital display will come on after driving for about 20 mins - sometime blinks for a while and various lights are starting to go out on the dash. Any advice on how to start fixing these problems?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Similar problem to post 485, but in the back. It also could be the switch failing, I've seen both problems.....
  • I have the same problem does your dad remember what that part was called my email is betbrianberry@yahoo.com. thanks
  • blend door motor actuator... Dorman parts sells them. They're kind of vehicle specific depending on if you have electronic cabin temperature sensing or rear air, etc. You can order dirctly fron Dorman online (just search dorman parts) or any carquest. I'm pretty sure all other major parts suppliers sell dorman parts too.
  • hwdgailhwdgail Posts: 1
    Hello,

    Here's my situation: I have a 2003 Explorer. About 4 years ago, the AC wasnt blowing cold. I just kept adding freon every few months and it seemed to work fine. That last for a few years and now it doesnt blow cold at all. I had it diagnosed yesterday and they said it was the ac evaporator which needed to be replaced.

    Because they have to remove the dash board, the labor is around $800, the evaporator $225.00, ac dryer $71.00, orifice tube $8.00, ac oil $10.00, ac recharge $ 80.00, plus the doors in the case are broken too. Total: $1200.00.

    I am going to get a few more estimates, but here is my question: since the labor is a huge cost, is there anything else I should replace since my truck is 9 years old, as I do not want to have someone tell me next year that they have to replace something under the dash. I figure I should be proactive since they are ripping it apart anyway.

    Thanks in advance.
    Hwdgail
  • fsaund752fsaund752 Posts: 2
    I have a 2010 Ford Explorer Limited. The ac works fine for a while then just seems to stop blowing. After a minute or two it come backs on. It will run awhile and then do the same thing. Any ideas? Dealer seems clueless.

    Thanks
  • rlaurenzirlaurenzi Posts: 1
    Hello ryango I have the exact problem right now with my 2003 Explorer XLT. The passenger side AC works well and the rear AC as well, but not the driver side. Have you resolved the problem with yours and if so what was the fix?
Sign In or Register to comment.