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Ford Explorer Air Conditioner and Heater Problems



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Easy clue. This car has two evaporator units, one for the front, one for the back. The expansion valve for the rear unit is plugged. Not a hard, or expensive fix. If one knows the location of the expansion valve. It's in the line somewhere before the evaporator.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Often when you have two evaporators but only one compressor there is an EPR valve in each line to prevent a single evaporator from "stealing" all of the liquid refrigerant.
  • Hi - Seems like a popular problem, but I haven't been able to find the solution, hopefully someone here can steer me in the right direction.

    I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4x4 Eddie Bauer IV Generation 6cy with rear aux heating and cooling. The A/C is only blowing out the defrosters in the front. Rear AC works fine. Temperature control is working, I have both hot and cold air with no thumping or clicking noise when I turn the control knob. So it doesn't sound like the blend door. I checked the blend door actuator on the lower driver side and its working. I checked the vacuum lines behind the vent control knob and behind the glove box and all connections seem ok. I can reach through the vent and push the door open that blocks the front vents but but it's not opening or staying open on it's own. I also checked the metal arm that attaches to that flap from the vacuum reservoir in the back and it's intact. Seems like maybe a vacuum issue. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
  • I found the leak - it was a hose under the hood.
  • drew89drew89 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 explorer and two days ago when I went to drive it the ac would only blow cool air when i was moving. When I was stopped it would blow hot air. Then yesterday it wasn't even blowing cool air when I was moving. I don't know what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Engine is tending toward overheating at idle or refrigerant leak.
  • willjkwilljk Posts: 3
    Thank You albert911, without your knowledge I would of never found my same problem as you found with your Ford Explorer. I fixed mine a little different. I puled on the actuator and was able to get all vents at once with air coming out. So I took off the vent control knob and replaced that with a piece of plastic that I made round to fit in the space and velcroed it so that I will never turn the control knob and loose my air vent again.
  • I have a 2006 explorer Limited, same problem. dealer wanted 600.00 to put in a new blend door. I decided to check the vacuum diagram for my explorer. I found a vacuum hose on top of engine near the firewall, it was melted and had a hole in it, I started the car and turned on the air and then i held my hand over the hose and the blend door opened and now it works great. just needed a little duct tape. Its worth a try, hope it works.
  • mariamflmariamfl Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2003 Ford Explorer, and the AC after driving for 5 minutes, starts blowing minimal/warm air, and then cools again. Have taken to repair, and they replaced the compressor, but continue to have the same problem. Have taken back to the repair shop many time, but they cannot find the problem. They checked for leak with a blue dye, and indicating it's not leaking. They did fix some seals, but still, the problem persists. Any suggestions, before I continue to spend more $$$ on this SUV without fixing the problem. Ive already been advised that I may wish to seek a 2nd opinion, as they can't find the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That sounds just like a faulty, or dirty Expansion Valve in the line. It should have been replaced with the new Compressor, however, lots of shops don't bother to do that. So: If they did replace it when they changed the compressor, it's likely bad. IF they didn't replace it, it's likely plugged with debris from the lines. Either way, I'd have it replaced. It's very cheap part, and half an hour to replace. Not a big deal.
  • Can you show us the hose that you found to be faulty? thank you.. I have a similar issue, just not as extreme as you.
  • stjimmstjimm Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Explorer. The A/C and Heat control works fine. Cold air when I want cold and hot air when I want hot. But the air will only blow through the cabin vents. If I turn the controls to floor or defrost, the air stills flows through the cabin vents. The controls do not change the direction of the air flow. I recently replaced the motor blower resistor and the blower speed control now works as it should. Can anyone give me some insight on what the problem may be. Thanks
  • willjkwilljk Posts: 3
    Hi stimm I have a 2004 Ford Explorer but yours could be the same. Open your glove box ans gently push the back sides in to each other and then your glove box will drop down some more.Then look with a flash light right in the left top corner behind the glove box. You will see a vacumm rod that is suppose to slide into your vent changer, that could be broken. What I did was pull gently on the rod and try my vent dial , when i could get my rod to give me all vent air. I then pulled off the vent dial in that posistion and put a piece of plastic that I made round to fit so that I would not turn that dial for defrost, floor or center vent. I am getting air condition this way and also all vents are on. I know this is a major problem with Ford Explorers but i read that Ford is not fixing it. willjk
  • stjimmstjimm Posts: 2
    2002 Ford Explorer.

    Symptoms: AC and heat controls work fine. Fan speeds work fine. But air flows only through front vents. When I attempt to change air flow to floor or defrost, the air continues to flow through the front vents.

    Observations: There is a flow control valve located to the upper left of the glove compartment box. When I turn the flow control switch on the front panel from floor to vent to defrost, the valve rod moves in and out as it should. The valve rod though is to be connected to a plastic lever arm that pivots a flow control door or flapper. This plastic lever arm has broken and is not connected to the valve rod. Can anyone tell me how I could replace this plastic door and reconnect it to the valve rod.? Thanks
  • willjkwilljk Posts: 3
    Hi Stimm You would have to remove the console and part of the dash to get to the plastic control. Look up Youtube on how to remove dash on your year. I left mine alone because of the cost, I was able to pull on the control valve and keep trying your flow control switch. I was able to get air from all vents at once. So I pulled off the flow control switch and cut a piece of black plastic and placed sticky tape inside and placed round piece of the black plastic disc that I made to cover that opening so that I would not use the vent control and my vents are fine, as long as I don't touch that flow control switch again. I also get air condition through all the vents also.
  • berto8berto8 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Eddie Bauer with 3 rows of seats, 4.0 liter engine with 43,000 miles and my A/C is blowing hot air. I brought it to a dealer who told me the that the "lines to the rea rA/C unit need to be replaced" The cost is out through the roof. 1) Is this a common problem with the ED "rear A/C unit and 2) can I simply seal off/plug off the rear A/C unit as no one ever sits in the 3rd row of seats.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That's ridiculous! There surely is a leak, but very very doubtful it's the lines to the rear evaporator unit. Go somewhere else and get another diagnosis. I think you're getting taken for a ride. Those lines should last 20 years.
  • A/C works fine. Blower works fine, and when I change from defrost to floor all works fine. BUT No heat! HELP!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First, check your coolant level. Sounds like you are low, and not getting any water to the hot water lines. If it's not that, there may be a valve under the hood that is stuck closed preventing the hot water to get to the inside coil. Not sure about that. And could be a blend door stuck under the dash, that's the worst scenerio, because it's the most costly. Also, could be in the electronic controls, broken and not demanding heat. If it's full of water, you're going to need someone to look at it.
  • Please help, I have a 2000 Limited and just had my Blower Motor stop working. I thought it was the Blower Motor that was bad, but once I took it out and hooked it up to a power source it began to work. This leads me to believe that the Blower Motor Resistor is bad. Is there anything else that could be wrong? I have checked the fuses, wiring, etc... I am stationed in Italy so finding a ASE certified Mechanic that knows Fords is pretty difficult. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Melting in Italy!
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